Stages of building a house from gas silicate blocks

Stages of building a house from gas silicate blocks

A house made of gas silicate blocks is the direction of construction, which competes with the traditional "brick" approach.

Although gas silicate costs a little more than bricks, it has advantages that make more companies and summer cottages pay attention to gas silicate.

Next, we'll tell you which blocks should be chosen, how to build walls from gas silicate, we bring a calculator for calculating the amount of materials, photos and videos about the work.

Contents:

  • Advantages and disadvantages of
  • Blocks: types, quantity calculation
  • Building of house
    • Stage 1 - laying foundation
    • Stage 2 - laying
  • Conclusion

Advantages and disadvantages of

Gas silicate blocks have advantages and disadvantages and what's good - there are more advantages:

  • Ease. Gas silicate is 5 times lighter than concrete. The standard block size is 60x20x30 cm. One block replaces 22 bricks that weigh 100 kg. As a result, the walls and facade will be easier;
  • Thermal insulation. The blocks are porous, which means that their thermal insulation properties are better than those of any other material. The thermal conductivity is only 0.12, while the brick has 0.87.Gas silicate blocks will help to warm the house;
  • Heat accumulation. The block has an interesting property: in summer it is cool, and in winter it is warm. A block 30 cm thick is equal in this respect to a brick masonry of 60 cm;
  • Strength. The gas silicate block tolerates compression better than tension. If you want to use the block as an archway or for a facade from the outside, you need to make a reinforcing belt and supports that are made of wood / metal or choose a larger block size;
  • Environmentally friendly. The production involves quartz sand, cement, water, lime, aluminum powder. Homogeneous mass is poured into the mold to the desired size, in it there is a reaction between lime and powder - hydrogen is formed, which imparts porosity;
  • Frost resistance. Gas silicate blocks easily carry a multiple freeze-thaw cycle, 2 times greater than brick. Insulate the block from the outside and from the inside you can build any structure;
  • Flameproof. The unit is made of non-combustible elements. It can withstand direct fire exposure for up to 3 hours;
  • Soundproofing. The gas silicate block with good plaster on the facade extinguishes up to 65 dB of noise coming in from the outside. Sound insulation is the same as for a 3-pane double-glazed unit. The size of the block is also important: the thicker it is, the better insulation, the denser, the lower the insulation.

Wall of blocks

Cons:

  • porous structure when wetted from the outside will lead to the appearance of fungus;
  • instead of dowels an expensive chemical anchor is used;
  • house of gas silicate with their own hands is placed only on the strip foundation;
  • gas silicate poorly tolerates stretching - you need to use a reinforced belt;
  • building a house in 2 floors or more requires you to put a reinforced belt, finishing is done using other materials, additional insulation is carried out, which leads to more expensive construction, especially if the house has an attic and a garage or there is a complex facade.

Now you better understand which gas silicate blocks are suitable for your construction, what sizes are available and what size will be more convenient for you.

Blocks: types, calculation of the number of

Before you start laying the walls with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the required number of blocks.

You can calculate the quantity using a calculator: enter the necessary design data about the perimeter, the number of windows, doors, the sizes of the openings, the height of the box, the thickness of the masonry and the dimensions of the seam.

Calculator gives the result with an error of 5-10%, because the calculation requires you to buy blocks above the specified number by 5-10%.

Video:

The following brands of gas silicate blocks are distinguished:

  • D 300: the figure in the designation indicates a density of 300 km / m3.The coefficient of thermal conductivity is 0.08 W / m • ° C.This block is better used for insulation and the creation of floors;
  • D 400: thermal conductivity - 0.096 W / m • ° C, serves the same purposes as D 300;
  • D 500: the coefficient of thermal conductivity is 0.12 W / m • ° C.Such a block can be used for exterior walls in houses where additional insulation is not provided;
  • D 600: the thermal conductivity is 0.14 W / m • ° C.Suitable for building without insulation. But the thickness should be more than the standard. Also, such a block is shown for the construction of houses with hinged facades;
  • D 700: thermal conductivity - 0.17 W / m • ° C.Block suitable for partitions and load-bearing walls. For exterior walls only used if there is additional insulation.

Recommendations for selection:

  • 200-300 - as a facade insulation, exterior finish;
  • 400-600 - for single-storey houses, non-bearing and load-bearing walls( any calculator on the network by default means blocks of this category);
  • 500-700 - for objects from 3 floors in height, with an attic;
  • 700 - used under the reinforcement belt.

Construction of the house

We begin the construction of the walls with our own hands. First you need to build a strip foundation( see the video below).

Stage 1 - we put the foundation

It is executed from 200th grade of concrete: cement, coarse-grained sand and gravel are mixed in proportion 1 to 2 to 2.5.

Also needed:

  1. formwork board;
  2. wire to reinforce the foundation;
  3. sand.

Before completing all the work you need to order a geodetic survey of the land. Then you need to calculate the foundation and the amount of material for pouring( as an option - use the calculator for the ribbon foundation).

Foundation for home

For marking, we cut the top 15 cm of the earth, determine the first corner, place the pegs. Then stretch the rope from the peg, mark the following corners.

Having exposed the corners of the square, complete the complete rectangle. After we measure the diagonals - with the correct marking they will be equal, similarly mark the internal lines under the foundation.

The marked lines are leveled horizontally: at the same level we put the slats on which the rope is stretched.

Next, you need to do earth work. With your hands, dig a trench under the foundation from the lowest angle, otherwise the depth will be uneven, while the trenches should be vertical.

If the soil is poured - we put the props. Then check the level of the bottom, we poured a pillow of river sand 15 cm thick, then each layer of sand is rammed, watered.

Then we expose the formwork, for this we put the supports on the corners of the timber, we put the formwork: we connect the boards with bars / corners, we put on the screws so that the bars / corners are outside and the hats are inside.

The height must be calculated in such a way that the foundation level is at least 30 cm.

Video:

For laying reinforcement under the belt we cut a metal rod 8-12 mm thick into pieces of the required length.

With a base depth of 40 cm, the bars are also inserted vertically, the reinforcement is attached to the formwork and is connected with each other by wire.

Now proceed directly to the foundation pouring.

We mix ourselves cement and river sand at the rate of 1 to 2, pour water to the consistency of sour cream.

We take as much rubble as the sand.

Fill the rubble with a solution so that it completely dries. Then we pour concrete: pierce the rod, compact it with a bar to free the voids from the air.

When pouring rattling formwork, so that the concrete is better laid down.

Then equal the surface rule, sprinkle the top layer sifted through a sieve with dry cement and cover the concrete with a coverlet and leave for 1 month for drying.

The foundation should be waterproofed after drying.

Stage 2 - Masonry

We start the masonry from the corner blocks( do not forget to calculate the quantity: the calculator will count the quantity with a margin).

Then we put the guide pegs( step size 1 m) and pull the rope along which we spread the first line and level it.

Masonry is performed with a seam ligation: the blocks in the upper row must be displaced no less than 1/3 from the blocks below.

Video:

Instead of cement, special glue is used. Each 4th row is reinforced as a belt: we cut the notch with our own hands along the entire perimeter directly in the laid blocks and put the reinforcement.

Armature is placed in the 1st, 4th, 8th rows, etc. Blocks we put on a glutinous solution a dentic trowel. Be sure to stitch 2 ends of the block, bottom, and top when laying the next row.

If the block is longer than the required one, cut it with a bulgarian. The facade will hide any shortcomings.
It should be noted some features of the masonry.

All openings in the house should be laid out with metal corners and propped with spacers.

Also in the openings, the size of which starts from 1.5 m, the reinforced concrete belt is poured, and before building the walls, it makes sense to enclose a 10 cm layer of foam in the formwork.

The lining is done after the construction of the walls, it is better to lay the mesh in the walls towhen facing, she contacted the wall.

Lining and siding - the best finish of the facade, which in addition can better insulate the house, and at the same time the finish is only possible with gypsum plaster.

Thanks to the glue a very fine seam is achieved - no more than 3 mm.

Adhesive is easy to make by hand:

  • pour water in a bucket;
  • add a dry mixture of glue;
  • is stirred;
  • , observe the water / mixture ratio indicated on the package;
  • do not prepare the entire mixture at once, only as needed.

Conclusion

We did not give step-by-step instructions on how to build a home from gas silicate with our own hands from the ground up, how the facade is finished, how the insulation is performed for the simple reason that it would have turned out a giant text.

Please note - most of the nuances that arise when designing a house from gas silicate blocks are described above.

Video:

Do not forget that these are only nuances and general recommendations, within which you are free to build any object.

So give vent to your imagination, but do not forget that its success depends on the thorough adherence to the technological prescriptions, which are indicated in the text above and are supported by the video.

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