Kitchen cupboard with own hands

Kitchen arrangement will tell a lot about their owners. And it's not about washed dishes and sparkling surfaces for the arrival of guests. The ideal kitchen is where it's nice to cook and spend time with loved ones, and all the items have their place. In such a room cleaning takes place in minutes - all at hand. A good owner of household appliances is crammed to the maximum, furniture - a minimum, and there is enough space for everything. The secret is simple - kitchen cabinets are made taking into account the layout of the space. Built-in furniture on an individual order is expensive, the purchase will rarely be perfect. But to master the process of assembling a kitchen cupboard for utensils is not at all difficult.

Preparatory stage

Before you make a kitchen cabinet yourself, you should weigh everything for the future.

1. If the kitchen is fully equipped, and one corner kitchen cupboard between two others is urgently needed, then the selection of the door is important. The dimensions are compared with the adjacent cabinets. To select material under the general facade, make a door of frosted glass in the color of other materials of the room. It can be made in a frame and secured from above with a piano loop - the simplest option.

2. Sometimes it makes sense to carry out a partial restoration of the built-in furniture in the kitchen - add a couple of missing cabinets with a simultaneous replacement of the facade. This is very beneficial, when the case is reliable, it remains only to update the surface. Replace not only the doors - the acrylic worktop will combine all the lower cabinets into a single cutting surface. Filling the shelves inside will remain the same, very convenient and familiar. This update of the kitchen will cost three times cheaper.

3. The kitchen cabinet can be urgently needed and as a mask for non-aesthetic equipment - gas meter, mini-boiler or hood for extracting. The top cabinets are ideal for this. The free space of such a decorative case is used rationally, providing a shelf or drawers for the instrument. The top cover for this design is not needed - there should be pipes. An additional crossbar at the door is needed to fix the rigidity of the cabinet.

4. An important point that frightens beginners at the initial stage of work is the sawing of the material. It is impossible to do this perfectly at home, you need a special tool, a better machine. The closest joiner's shop for drawings for a small fee will make an ideal cutting, prepare holes, process the edges and even decorate with a tie-wrap. Sometimes sawing is offered directly in the building materials store. You will save a lot of time and energy, but get a lot of fun from the perfect details to upgrade your kitchen.

What materials are used for a self-made kitchen cabinet

To make a kitchen cabinet with your own hands, you can use different materials.

1. The frame of furniture is usually made of chipboard( chipboard).For the kitchen, it is advisable to take a moisture-resistant material with a high density of 16-18 mm. For the tabletop, only a 3.2 mm chipboard with a washable surface and a chamfer is suitable.

2. A veneer, natural or synthetic, is used under the facade or cabinet doors. Laminate and melamine are suitable. Laminate - protective coating for chipboard and fiberboard.

3. MDF is more quality than particle board, the material is compressed wood dust on an adhesive basis. It is more expensive and stronger than wood and synthetic analogs, but in the production of furniture it is the most plastic, it can be bent. MDF is available with a matte, lacquered and laminated face.

4. The most expensive material - a natural tree or an array. It is used for the cabinet door. For cheaper and easier to make a frame of the door, and in the center - veneer, decorative plywood. The most expensive is a marquetry mosaic made of natural wood, which is sometimes inserted into the frame of the door as a separate panel. The tree is sensitive to temperature changes and high humidity, but has excellent decorative properties. It is protected by treatment with impregnations or covered with a special water-repellent varnish.

5. Multiplex is a modern material based on plywood, where the wood is glued in different directions by layers. It does not deform and is not so afraid of moisture.

6. Plywood is of different quality and thickness. It is great for internal shelves, on the back wall and on the bottom of drawers. This is the cheapest material, but it can also be additionally treated for moisture resistance of greater appeal. If the plywood is not visible - this makes no sense. On the back wall is enough and press cardboard.

7. High-strength thick glass will also fit on the shelves and doors of the kitchen cupboard. Beautifully looks in the kitchen and stained glass in the doors. The edges after slicing should be sanded, and the glass is conveniently mounted in a wooden or plastic frame.

8. Modern synthetic materials based on acrylic or plastic are suitable as an additional finish, but not as a basic material. Fibreboard on a laminate of 5 mm and more is better to use for the walls of the cabinet.

9. If there is a desire to give the kitchen a particularly respectable look - order all the doors from the same array or with veneer inserts in the carpentry workshop. Oak, walnut, ash - for every taste, they can be painted stained in the right color, for example, under mahogany. There is another way - a bleaching varnish, which is applied in several layers.

Photo of kitchen cabinets will prompt which option is most suitable for design. When selecting the façade material on the cabinet of a kitchen hanging or kitchen cupboard it is important to take into account the general style of the room. The chosen color should be in harmony with the color scheme of the interior and the rest of the furniture. Only after the choice is made in favor of materials for the self-made cabinet or general restoration, they can be purchased.

Tip: If you confine yourself to assembling one kitchen cabinet, it's easier to buy cuttings available there in the carpentry workshop - they are twice cheaper. Providing on the kitchen cabinet their own drawings, it's easier to order from them the entire assembly kit in ready-made form.

Drawing preparation for the kitchen cabinet

If you have never done accurate drawings for cabinet furniture, you just have to look at the finished ones - in catalogs, books, manuals or on the Internet.

1. Having dealt with the basics, the easiest way is to repeat the appropriate variant with adjusting its size. A drawing is not a drawing, it's a simple scheme, you do not need to be an artist. It is enough to take a sheet of paper, a triangle, a pencil and make your version on the model, and then correct the draft after the notes.

2. In the drawings, the accuracy of the measurements and the correspondence of each surface is very important. All measurements are in millimeters. If the cabinet to be built is inserted between others, make sure that there is enough space for the door to open. It is better to do with the error in the minus, than re-do everything after the dressing and assembling because of extra 2-3 mm.

3. Ideal drawing - with exact indication of the dimensions of each part, their number and overall sketch. Parallel surfaces must be exactly the same, they do not need to be drawn separately. But if they are made of different materials, for example, the lid and the bottom, then take into account the difference in thickness, make new measurements. Remember that you need to take into account the thickness of the panel when docked, otherwise the overall dimensions may be different.

4. For home sawing, accuracy is especially important, since the tool setting is easy and in rough will give a small difference. But it is enough that the assembled cabinet does not fit in its niche, or the door rests against the side of the next cabinet and does not open. The door is made 4-5 mm less, which will ensure a free opening.

5. Take into account and the way of assembly - the upper and lower surfaces will be between the sidewalls or vice versa, the sidewalls at the top and bottom will be stapled. See how the finished cabinets are assembled. Usually sidewalls outside, but horizontal inside, but there may be options. The thickness of the rear wall will affect how far the cabinet will go forward.

6. If it is necessary to assemble the floor, and not the kitchen cabinet hinged, the sidewalls will perform the function of the legs. In this case, the lower surface is mounted slightly above the level of the sidewalls, taking into account the unevenness of the floor. It is better to raise the lower shelf by 5-6 cm above, so that in case of possible flooding of the kitchen the water does not get on the shelves. It is better to close the void with the base, mounted between the sidewalls. Ideal - when all the furniture for the kitchen and bathroom is hinged, regardless of the bottom or top plane.

7. For a kitchen cabinet, you need a work surface or countertop if the top of the product is at the table level. A higher cabinet without countertops assumes a larger number of shelves. Internal shelves should be slightly shorter than the bottom, so that the door closes tightly without knocking.

8. The last thing to consider is the depth of the kitchen cabinets. If the product is collected in one copy, supplementing other furniture, then make measurements of the closet companion. The other dimensions of kitchen cabinets depend on the space for accommodation.

9. An ancient method of manufacturing kitchen cabinet furniture was supposed to be a wooden frame. Today all cabinet furniture is assembled according to the general scheme, taking into account constructive variants of the top or bottom position of placement. These are legs, hinges for fastening, the number of shelves inside, upper or lower handles - that's the whole difference.

10. For single products, the height of the kitchen cabinets is commensurate with the markings of other items - a gas stove, a table or a refrigerator. In the narrow niche between the sink and the stove, you can put a drawer on the rollers, used as a bar or storehouse for life.

11. The last moment is the hardware. The method of fastening the door without distortions and the tightness of its fitting in a greater degree affect the overall aesthetics than the material used. Think about what the mechanism will be for attaching the door and its handle - with one hole or two. Do not forget about hinged hinges for mounting on the wall. If you make 2 cabinets - floor and hinged one above the other, the handles will be mounted in different angles: top or bottom. All metal parts will help to choose a consultant in the hardware department.

Tip: If impregnation, glue, lacquer and other chemical liquids are used in the manufacture of the cabinet, it is important to select them correctly. Cheap lacquer can be sticky and weathering for years, and products like bread or honey quickly absorb foreign odors and become unsuitable.

These recommendations will seem to the experienced master, but for a beginner in such a case, any advice is invaluable. To avoid unwanted alterations and defects in the finished product, it is important to think through all these points. Design deviations of even 2 mm should be reflected in the sketch. Only after everything is thought out, measured and taken into account, they begin to cut materials or order finished parts. All the marks in the cutting are done only with a pencil on the inside, since the marker, pen or markers leave a sticky trace on the front surface.

Tools

When buying materials and preparing all components it is important to think through all the costs. If there is a complete set of tools - you can cut it yourself. In the absence of 1-2 devices, it is enough to rent them on a daily basis, so you need to decide on the date of the work. If there is no equipment - entrust this to the specialists of the sawing shop or carpentry workshop, and make the assembly yourself.

Required tools and accessories:

1. Straight cutter milling cutter and pick-up tool for hanging under hinges, screwdriver, round drill or knife drill, conventional drill and screwdriver, stapler with staples for fastening the rear wall, universal level.

2. Concealed hinges for the door, metal corners for hanging the cabinet, pins, dowels, confirmats and plugs, screws, shelf holders or slats and glue.

Assembly process

1. Arrange all the cut and numbered parts in the order in which they are assembled. The roof, the bottom, the side walls and the fasteners for the sliding shelves will be needed first. You can shelve the shelves and the door for now. In addition, with a pencil, mark the arrows on the inner surface, which surface to which to mount, so as not to be confused later. Drill the holes under the shelf holders.

2. On the door and one internal surface, before drilling, drill holes for hinges. It is important to mark out everything and do it exactly, so that the door does not hang and close tightly. For internal holes use a round milling cutter or a special drill bit. A beginner can use the most primitive and archaic variant of fastening a hinged door - on a piano loop.

3. It is easier to assemble the cabinet on shkantovyh connections. We need a flat milling cutter, where we paste flat dowels. They will swell from the glue, providing a strong connection, and they will not be visible. The cutter will give a qualitative groove, and glued dowels it is in addition better to hammer. Further, the dowel must enter into the same hole made in the perpendicular plane. We glue the gaps between the dowels well. This is how the main frame is assembled. In addition, you can confirm by confirming and close the plug. In extreme cases - additionally fasten with nails.

4. The base of the cabinet is ready, then we attach the back wall, which will give the stiffness of the construction, the easiest way - with a stapler. If you plan to have a backlight in the cabinet, prepare the holes for the LEDs. Then fix the back wall of plywood or pressboard. It will not allow the structure to skew when moving. It is best to put it in the grooves milled for it, and fasten the stapler with staples after checking the perpendicularity of the corners.

5. At the top edges of the cabinet, secure the metal brackets with a screwdriver, which are reliable for attaching the product to the wall. To do this, enough screws 4х15.

6. Attachment of the cabinet door is the most important moment. Hidden loops need to be adjusted. Round holes are drilled on the door with a round cutter or knife nozzle on a drill. They should be located 8-10 cm from the top edges. It is necessary to perform the work carefully, so as not to drill the door through and through. Opposite them holes in the side of the cabinet are made in advance, before assembly.

It is important not to miscalculate when measuring, so that everything is the same. When one loop is installed, level the level, fix and adjust the second one. We first fasten the hinges to the door, then hang it, fixing it on the side wall. After that, we mount the cabinet on the wall and put the shelves. In the floor cabinet, do not forget to insert the base before installing, it must be deeper than the door. It is fixed by pins during the assembly of the case.