How to make a septic tank from European cubes by yourself - detailed instructions

"Conveniences" in the courtyard in the 21st century is an anachronism. But, unfortunately, for one reason or another not all owners of private buildings, even within the boundaries of settlements can connect their sewerage to the central sewage system. And for many owners of suburban real estate, this is all the more problematic.

This question is solved quite simply - an autonomous sewage system is installed. Its "central" part is a septic tank - a building that is a collection of all drains in a given territory. It is most practical from the practical point of view to make it purifying( how to choose such, read here), since the cumulative model needs periodic devastation, and this is associated with some difficulties.

Firstly , for the arrival and work of the sewer machine will have to pay( the distance of the facility is taken into account).By the way, not too little, if it comes to a country house. Call 1 "barrel" on average from 700 to 900 rubles( plus transportation costs).

Second , it is necessary to provide its free access to the length of the sleeve. Hence, we will have to give up some "economic considerations", as there is no sense in this way to equip the territory( to break down beds, plant bushes).And if you consider that there are certain restrictions on the installation of septic tanks( they can not be put anywhere), then the problem of site improvement is even more complicated.

septik-iz-evrokubov

In order to understand the features of mounting such "cleaners" from eurocubes, you need to know what these products represent themselves. In the classical version it is a container made of thick plastic, which is placed in a metal enclosing frame. For its reliable installation, a special tray is provided, which can also be plastic, wooden or metal. The standard volume of one container is 1,000 liters( although there are products of both 800 and 1,050 liters).Weight - from 45 to 65 kg( depends on the material of the pallet and the thickness of the wall, which lies in the range of 1.5 - 2 mm).

The meaning of the article is to explain the technique of installing a septic tank, so we will not dwell on the calculations of the required volumes and the number of products. Note only that a family of 3 people is enough to take two 1,000-liter capacity.

septic tank




Technology of work

Preparation of foundation pit

Its dimensions are determined by dimensions of septic tanks. It should be noted that the containers on all sides will subsequently be insulated and concreted. Therefore, digging a trench should be about half a meter wide( 25 cm margin from each side).As for the length, it also takes into account the need to connect the cubes overflow, so they are somewhat spaced from each other( by 15 - 20 cm).The depth is recommended to be not less than 0.5 m, but here it is necessary to focus on the climatic features, more precisely, on the freezing of the soil.

Preparing the platform

how-to-septic Consider one option - drainage into the soil. We will only specify the features of the second method. So, the most common way to remove wastewater from the territory is to the ground, and this is done directly through the bottom of the 2nd cube. In this case, for the 1-st concrete ground on which it will be mounted.

For the 2nd cube, at the bottom of the excavation, some deepening( about 35 - 40 cm) is arranged. Coarse-grained sand and gravel of middle fractions are filled there( the thickness of the layer is of the order of 25 - 30 cm).Thus, it turns out that between the tanks the difference in height is approximately 0.2 m.

But if aeration field is installed for drainage, both cubes are placed on a common concrete base.

Preparing the tanks

In the first one you need to enter the sewer pipe. Between the cubes you need to arrange overflow( also through a piece of pipe).If a "territorial" drainage system( field) is envisaged, then in the second tank there is one more opening - for draining.

In the walls of the tanks, the holes are cut out quite simply, by the diameter of the pipes used. Since the cubes are made of plastic, the pipes should be used from the same material. If we use products made of metal, cast iron, then the difference in the coefficients of thermal expansion will lead to the formation of gaps and subsequent leaks.

The entrance to the 1st tank is at the top. The opening for overflow on the opposite wall is 15-20 cm lower.

For connections are used, including, and various tees, transitions. It all depends on the features of the assembly route, how it fits to the tanks, what is the difference in height( if there is one).Any owner will figure out what he needs.

In addition, in each cube, in the upper part, holes are cut for the ventilation pipes, otherwise it will not be possible to avoid gas contamination of the tanks with all that follows( for more details on the ventilation of a septic tank, read here).

options

Do not forget about the drainage itself. Therefore, in the bottom of the second container, as well as along the perimeter of the lower part( about 15 cm high), a "mesh" of holes is drilled, through which the liquid will flow.

And last: irrespective of the intensity of the operation of the system, sooner or later it will have to be cleaned. Therefore, in the 2-nd container, it is necessary to provide a device for a hermetically sealed "hatch".

Some sites say that this is done through the vent hole( after it is removed).But the question arises - what should be its diameter, so that it is possible to clean the septic tank qualitatively?

Installation of cubes

3 There is nothing to explain here except one. They must be fixed so that it is possible to produce a quality finish with a heater and subsequent concreting. This is done in different ways. Given that the cubes are "dressed" in metal frames, this is not difficult. For example, weld them to specially mounted loops in the concrete, hooks using strips, rods.

Connecting pipes( fittings)

All joints must be carefully sealed. To do this, you need a silicone sealant. Use the solution should not, as this sealing will not last long.

External finish

As a heater, taking into account the correct shapes of cubes, it is possible to use foam plastic( both from the sides and from above).If you lay the mineral wool, then how can it be concreted? And this is necessary to prevent deformation of the tanks due to seasonal soil displacements.

Application of a layer of mortar to the entire surface of the septic tank. Depending on local conditions, it is possible to make and additional reinforcement, on top of foam plates.

All that remains is to fall asleep on the ground and ground it well.

Useful advices for

  • Since there is an additional "strengthening" of cubes during the installation, it is advisable to purchase second-hand products. They are much cheaper - from 1,500 to 2,500 rubles / piece.
  • When determining the depth of septic placement, one should also take into account the peculiarities of laying the sewage route from the house. To ensure a reliable flow, it should have a slope towards the tanks of about 1.5 cm per meter of running.
  • If the groundwater is sufficiently "high", then the autonomous system is mounted according to the "drainage field" option.
  • To reduce the intensity of formation at the bottom of the 2nd capacity of solid fractions and thereby increase the period before its next purification, it is advisable to fill in this cube with special supplements. On sale they are available. This will increase the degree of degradation of solid particles and reduce the silting of the bottom of the septic tank.

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