How to install a boiler in an apartment

Hot water supply of an apartment is one of the main components of comfortable living in it. The overwhelming majority of city residents can not even imagine what could be different. But the problem is that not all hot houses are provided with hot water supply. In addition, even from tenants of fully furnished apartments, one can often hear complaints about "quirks" of public utilities, connected both with frequent interruptions of hot water supply, and with unreasonable overstating of tariffs forpayment for this service.

The optimal solution is to achieve autonomy in this matter, have your own water heater at home, and best of all - the storage principle of the action, the boiler so that the hot water supply is always at hand. And here is how to choose a boiler in the apartment, so that it fully met the expectations of owners ?And the second problem is how to install a boiler in an apartment so that it works correctly and does not present any danger to the tenants? The answers to these questions will be given in this publication.

Types of household storage tanks

First of all, you need to navigate in a variety of storage water heaters, as there are many, but not all can approach the conditions of a particular apartment.

First of all, boilers are divided into direct or indirect heating devices.

1. Indirect heating water heaters do not use energy sources in the form of electricity, gas, solid or liquid fuel. Water, used by for household needs ( its is often called a sanitary one) heats up behind heat transfer from circuit running inside connected to to heating system( sometimes other hot water sources, for example circuits, connected to solar heat accumulators).

The figure shows a schematic diagram of such a water heater.

• Cold water is supplied through the pipe( 8) to the boiler tank( 2).
• Hot boiler technical water circulates through the heat exchanger( 6), which gives its sanitary heat. There can be several heat exchangers, they are in the form of coils( as in the figure) or are built according to the principle " tank in tank ".
• The heated sanitary water is drawn through the pipe( 11).
• The entire is enclosed by the in an enameled steel casing( 4), and the space between it and the inner tank is filled with a powerful layer of the thermo insulator - expanded polystyrene( 5), which ensures the safety of the warmed-up water.
• A magnesium anode( 10) is installed inside the tank, which has the function to prevent buildup of scale on the walls of the vessel - it "pulls" its over account of a lower electric potential and must be regularly replaced as it grows.
• The electronic control unit( 1) with temperature sensor( 3) ensures the maintenance of the required temperature of the sanitary water. Since the boiler itself does not use its own heaters, the controls the by adjusting the circulation flow of process water coming from the boiler.

Indirect heating boilers are economical and high-performance, certainly with sufficient capacity of the main boiler. However, it is for the conditions of the apartment that they do not fit the best way. The fact is that to connect such a water heater to the central heating system, most likely, no one will allow - this will lead the to a significant drop in the temperature in the heating circuit. In addition, half a year this device, in fact, generally will be idle, not havingexternal heat source. If even an independent heating system is installed in the apartment, the all will not be the same choice. The boiler itself requires considerable space, and in cramped flat conditions it's easier to install a two-circuit boiler .

2. In direct heating boilers, the principle is different - the transfer of heat energy goes directly to the sanitary water from the energy carrier - natural gas, electricity, solid or liquid fuel. In the conditions of apartments, it is clear, either gas or electric storage water heaters are used.

2 - 1. Gas storage boilers, which should not be confused with gas columns that are flowing water heaters.

• The water in the tank is heated from the gas burner( 4), located below, under the panel of a special spherical shape, and about t of the flue gas discharge pipe passing through the tank .
• The thermostat system( 3) monitors the heating level, controls the gas supply valves and the piezoelectric ignition device. As soon as the temperature of the water drops below the set value, the gas burners are switched on.
• There is also a magnesium anode( 5), about the function of which is mentioned above.

Similar boilers are much more economical than electric ones, they are characterized by high performance, however is not very popular among apartment owners, which is explained by a number of reasons. First, they necessarily need a system for removing burnt gases, in the form of a "classical" or coaxial chimney. Secondly, the installation of such a water heater will require mandatory coordination with the gas supplying organization and by the inspection authorities. And, thirdly, the cost of these boilers is much higher than the most of the popular and the popular among the residents apartments - electric.

2 - 2. Electric boilers have received the widest distribution precisely in conditions of urban high-rise buildings. They enough are compact, which allows them to be placed even on a small area, the is pretty simple in the installation, which does not require any reconciliation, are simple in operation, reliable and quite are economical.

has a huge variety of different models, but the basic scheme is the same for all:

• electric boiler External decorative ( 1) and ( 3) inner tank, the space between the which ( 2)filled with peat-insulating material( polyurethane foam).
• Cold water inlet( 4) with flow diffuser( 5).
• Hot water intake pipe( 9) from the top of the boiler.
• Heating element - heater( 7), the design of which can be different.
• Magnesium anode( 6).
• A temperature sensor( 8) connected to an electronic thermostat circuit that controls the switching on and off of the power supply voltage of the to maintain a preset water temperature in the boiler.

As you can see, the circuit is quite simple and the is reliable .The cost of such boilers is quite affordable, which causes their highest, among other storage water heaters, popularity. A further exposition of the order of selection and installation of water heaters will be devoted to this particular variety.

3. For completeness, the also has an for one type of storage boilers - a combined one.

They combine the functions of both indirect and direct heating. For example, the diagram shows such a boiler:

In the case there are two tanks .In the outside, the process water circulates from the heating circuit. The internal tank( 9) of stainless steel serves as the accumulator of warmed-up sanitary water. In the , has an electric heater and a temperature sensor. If the capacity of the external boiler is not sufficient to reach the set water temperature, the electronics system includes electrical heating. It is clear that during the period when boiler is not used ( after heating season) electric heating becomes main.

Similar boilers, although they combine all the positive qualities of indirect and direct heating water heaters, are still very expensive, and for the conditions of an apartment their application will be irrational.

How to choose a boiler in an apartment - practical advice

So, if you decide to purchase and install an electric storage boiler, you should know what parameters should be taken into account when choosing it:

1. Required volume of storage tank. The diversity in this issue is great, and it is necessary to choose the optimal model to ensure that the needs for hot water for all members of the family are fully provided, and at the same time - there is no need to overpay volume and power consumption for absolutely .

The preliminary parameters are based on the following parameters:

• The number and type of points of the , of the connected to the hot water circuit.
• The number of people living in the apartment.

Usually, for a boiler, the water heating temperature is considered to be optimum up to 60º C. However, it is very hot water, which necessarily mixes with cold water during use. For the convenience of calculations, it is possible to summarize the average flow of water for various procedures in a table, and translate it into a 60-degree one:

Based on from of this data, it will be easy to calculate which volume of a boiler is necessary so that all family members can take water procedures one by one without waiting for additional heating of the water. It is clear that with the adoption of the bath is not particularly "run up", it is better to navigate the usual soul.

For more the table with recommendations on the required volume of the water heater , based on of the number of inhabitants and the type of points of the draw-off :

2. Consumedpower. The higher it is, the faster the water heating will pass. However, do not forget that excess capacity is also not needed, since such a boiler will seriously load wiring in the apartment. Usually for an average water heater 2 - 2,5 kW is enough. However, , although the usual power outlet( its standard threshold is 3.5 kW) must cope with such a power, it is strongly recommended to install the water heater with a separate power line from the switchboard. If this is more than 3 kW, it is betterdo without a socket by installing in the immediate vicinity of the boiler a safety device for 16 - 25 A. A.

3. Dimensions and version of the housing. It is understood that these parameters mostly depend on from of the selected volume of the boiler, but here too there may be some peculiarities.

The most common for most users are vertical water heaters. They are the most productive and economical, they are of low cost.

Previously, the main form of the boiler was a cylinder. Such water heaters are simple in the arrangement and maintenance, but excessively protrude along the front, which sometimes prevents them from being installed in a close room.

Compacters are "flat" boilers, flattened from two edges forms. This arrangement of the tank, of course, is less bulky, but it has and drawbacks at it - it is much more expensive and has many welds that can reduce the overall strength of the structure and increase the area of ​​possible corrosion attack.

Boiler horizontal placement has become more popular lately - if the width of the wall allows, then is often chosen. they are characterized by rapid heating. Their only drawback is that such an arrangement does not allow achieving high productivity.

Horizontal boilers can also have a cylindrical or "flat" shape.

Most domestic boilers are designed for hanging on the wall. Boilers large volume can be in the floor version, but they take up a lot of precious space.

Important note - it is not allowed to change the orientation of the boiler layout on its own - vertical and horizontal models have their own design features, and they can work correctly only in their original position.

4. The internal coating of the water tank can also vary considerably.

The most inexpensive are enamelled tanks, but they must be installed an anode rod to collect scale. Disadvantage can be considered and the instability of the enamel to large temperature changes - with accidental overheating, such a coating can crack.

Boilers with stainless tanks are more practical - they are not afraid of increased water hardness and excessive concentration of chlorine-containing components in it. Some water heaters with tanks of their high-quality stainless steel are not even equipped with anodic rods because of of their uselessness. Stainless steel perfectly tolerates elevated temperature and pressure, without giving a deformation. Undoubtedly, the cost of such models is already much higher.

A modern innovative solution is the expensive, but very reliable boilers with glassfarfor coating tanks. Such tanks are absolutely not afraid of corrosive effects, completely chemically inert, are not susceptible to cracking or flaking, than "sin", for example, enameled. Steklofarforovoe cover is the most eco-friendly - the water will never have an unpleasant smell or taste, has an antibacterial effect. All these advantages, of course, affect the cost of similar models.

5. There are protection against scale and corrosion, about which it was already mentioned above.

Add here it can be that some models are equipped with non-magnesium, and inert anode rods that are much more efficient and require frequent replacement. Fairly, this convenience also affects the cost of the boiler.

6. Type of electric heater. You can choose a boiler with a "dry" or "wet" TEN .

The usual "wet" TEN contacts directly with the heated water that gives the more efficiency, but at the same time increases its vulnerability to corrosion and scale deposition.

"Dry" TANS are enclosed in a sealed capsule and do not have any contact with the liquid. They are more durable, they are easier to change when you exit building .The only negative - these benefits are reflected in the cost of the whole boiler.

7. Type of display and control unit. Low-cost models are fitted with point-type thermometers and mechanical thermostats. At more modern water heaters there can be a block with the digital indication, the touch panel of management. It is difficult to give advice in this question - everyone chooses on the preference and financial possibilities. I must say, that there are models even with remote controls - this is especially convenient for horizontal-mounted boilers installed high from the floor surface, under the ceiling.

8. Manufacturer and external design of the water heater. Undoubtedly, preference should be given to original models of famous brands. On sale there are many Turkish or Italian products, which, in principle, are of sufficient quality, yet are equipped with inexpensive parts( internal containers of , control units and heating elements) of Chinese production. The total duration of their trouble-free operation sometimes causes certain doubt.

In this regard, the German manufacturers, using their own components, stand out for the better. They are often quite large, for account impressive thermal insulation layer, but this is justified by the fact that the daily decrease in the temperature of the fully heated water in the disconnected from the boiler supply does not exceed 5 - 7 degrees.

Although most boilers do not differ in their quirky shapes, their decorability is still achieved by exterior design and a variety of hues of the body color - it is possible to choose the most suitable variation of nt for and the chosen style of the room.

Video: expert advice on choosing a boiler

How to install a boiler in an apartment yourself

Services for the installation of boilers in the apartment provides a variety of service organizations and private craftsmen. However, it is possible to carry out the installation of the water heater and independently, if there are basic skills of work with plumbing and household electric equipment.

Actually, the whole installation process can be divided into three main stages: suspension of the boiler to its intended place, insert it into the domestic water supply network and connect to the power supply.

Preparation of fixtures and suspension of the boiler

First you should once again assess the condition of the wall on which the boiler will be suspended - it must reliably to hold fastening elements under heavy load. On a wall of plasterboard, it is strictly forbidden to suspend the boiler, unless any additional reinforcement is used.

boiler The location of the boiler hanging should allow easy access to it and visual control of the indicator panel and the general condition of the appliance.

However, , the water heater should not be too far placed from the points of the . In case when , for example, kitchen and bathroom are widely spaced( this happens in the houses of some series), the best solution will be the installation of two boilers - one, a small volume , for kitchen needs, and the second - for water procedures.

The minimum distance from the top of the boiler from the ceiling is 100 mm. From the bottom, this value should not be less than 500 mm.

Usually the special dowels-hooks of the required diameter and length, calculated for a double load( in particular with volume boiler in 100 l fasteners must withstand 200 kg) are usually supplied with the water heater. If the fasteners are not included in the kit, you need to purchase hooks with a length of at least 100 - 120 mm, 8 mm in diameter, with an external diameter of the dowel - 12 mm.

In the place of installation, it is recommended to depart vertical axis line, from which further marking will go. Then, at the correct height, with taking into account the dimensions of the boiler, symmetrical holes are marked, corresponding to the location of the hooks on the mounting plate welded to the body of the water heater. The horizontal level of the markup is controlled by the building level.

With the help of a perforator holes are drilled into which plastic dowels or metal anchors with hooks are driven. Hooks are screwed so that they enter over the surface of the wall for 5 ÷ 7 mm.

After checking the reliability of the , the boiler can be hooked.

Some models of boilers have a special suspension system. In their kit, comes with special brackets that are attached to the wall using dowels with hexagon wrench. The form of standard brackets is coordinated with the mounting plate of the water heater, and it will not be special to suspend such a boiler. Special convenience can be represented by a special template, sometimes supplied together with the technical documentation of the product - this will greatly simplify the process of marking holes.

Connecting the boiler to the pipes of cold and hot water supply

The next important task is to cut into pipes of cold and hot water supply. The approximate general scheme of the connection is given on the on the drawing:

It will be necessary to install tees if there are no free pipes for these purposes in the water supply system in advance. Before the tees on both pipes, it is recommended to provide a stop valve( on a hot pipe, when connecting an apartment to a central hot water supply, the shut-off valve is mandatory - it is closed in case of switching to autonomous heating of water).

How can I implement the sidebar?

If pipes are made of plastic or polypropylene, - has problems with a standard tee that is mounted on compression fittings or soldered with a special device. From these tees is conducted piping to the location of the boiler.

More problems will be created by a metal pipe on a long non-detachable section.

Some masters practice reaming the body of the pipe with the installation of a tee-collar clamp type. However, the opponents of the of this approach are much more - such a tie does not differ with the high reliability of the , and besides this, there is a high probability of pipe clogging.

Much more reliable will cut out a section of pipe and cut the thread on both formed nozzles using a die of the appropriate diameter. After that it will be possible to install a metal tee on the drill or, even better, on the system of union nuts - "American women".

If there is no settling filter installed in the water supply system, it does not interfere with mounting it - it will prevent the clogging of the tank with solid inclusions.

Often the pressure in the water supply network is not stable, and for the boiler it is not entirely useful. In order to equalize the inlet pressure in the water heater, it is possible to install the reducing valve of the desired value( usually, on the order of 2 atmospheres).

In the immediate vicinity of the boiler it is recommended to install one more pair of shut-off valves as - this will facilitate the process of dismantling the device if it is necessary to remove it for repair or maintenance work.

All metal threaded connections are carefully "packaged" with pakli or special .

Now about how to connect the pipes directly to the boiler itself.

The boiler connection marked red is connected directly to the hot water pipe. Often, flexible hoses are used for this. This is perfectly acceptable, but the hoses themselves must be of very high quality, so that there is no vulnerable place on this site. Experienced masters always strongly recommend to connect polypropylene pipes with American nuts.

But the connection to a cold pipe requires a special approach, so it should be considered in more detail.

The special importance of the safety valve

This small in size, rather simple in its design, the device plays a key role in the providing the safety of the operation of the water heater.

Typically, this valve is a structure of two cylinders arranged perpendicular to each other.

• In the cylinder with a threaded part there is a poppet check valve, which prevents the outflow of water from the boiler to the cold main when the pressure in it decreases.
• In the other - also poppet valve, but with a more powerful spring, which works when the pressure in the boiler exceeds the maximum permissible value. This opens the drainage pipe through which excess liquid is discharged, thereby equalizing the pressure in the water heater. On , can also be located a handle for forced opening of the valve - it is useful for draining water from tank during preventive maintenance.

In order to better understand the importance of this device, it is better to consider several examples:

• The absence of a check valve can lead to the following situation. When the water in the boiler warms up, the pressure in grows .Sooner or later the is created by the when it exceeds the pressure in the cold pipe and will go back current of the already heated water - , it can appear when the "cold" faucet tap is opened or in the toilet bowl.
• is even worse if for any reason the pressure in the cold water pipe does not work at all ( for example, repairs are performed on the main line).Hot water from the boiler just will go into the pipe, and the heater will heat an empty tank that will lead the and to the exit of the TANA out of order, and to the cracking of the enamel. Of course, this should be prevented by the automatic power-off system in case of overheating, but you can not rely on the alone of the .
• However, the installation of a conventional check valve does not solve the entire safety problem. On the contrary, if you mount only it, you can cause catastrophic consequences - and after all, such "craftsmen" are still there! The banal failure of the thermostat in this case creates an explosive situation for .The temperature in the tank is growing , the pressure rises, but in the closed volume , water does not boil. But if there is an exit - a crack in the tank or a crane open by someone, the pressure drop will cause the to instant boil of water with a huge vaporization and a powerful explosion.

So, all this can be avoided by installing a safety valve. It is screwed directly into the boiler nozzle, 3 ÷ 4 turns with the usual sanitary "packing".And only then you can connect the water pipe to the other end with a flexible hose or other chosen method. The valve always has an arrow indicating the direction of the water flow - this should be checked when installing it.

A thin flexible hose with pin can be connected to the drainage outlet of the valve in the sewer. It is advised that this hose should be transparent - for visual control of the device.

Never and under no circumstances should any shut-off valve be installed between the safety valve and the water heater - which is enough common error, judging by the photos, placed on the Internet.

Do not be intimidated when the boiler is running, that sometimes water comes out of the valve branch - this only indicates its normal functionality. If the water flows too much - perhaps, the spring has sat down, and the valve is replaced - they are freely sold. Anxiety, however, must be caused constantly by a dry valve - has it broken, not wedged or clogged? To protect yourself in this situation, it is worthwhile to check it and, if necessary, replace it.

Some models of boilers are equipped with a "safety group" - in one housing assembled and a pressure reducer, and a check valve, and a safety valve. Such devices are installed in the same way - at the inlet of cold water.

Connecting the boiler to the electrical network

This question has already been partially discussed above, therefore on the it can be briefly discussed.

• As a rule, boilers are supplied with an already installed power cable and a three-prong plug to ensure connection to the ground loop - this will prevent the generation of electric shock in the event of a breakdown of the phase on the body of the device. Accordingly, and the socket installed near the water heater should have a grounding contact.
• You can find boiler models, which do not include a power cord. In this case will have to purchase it and will connect to the terminal block itself. The color coding of the wires is necessarily taken into account: blue - zero( N), brown, red, gray or black -, phase( L), and green-yellow - ground loop( PE).The plug must be rated for at least 16 A.

water heater test Once the is ready, you can test the operation of the water heater.

• is verified once again the correctness and tightness of the pipe connection. It is monitored that the valve on the hot water main is closed.
• The boiler is filled to the top with an open "hot" tap on the mixer - until from there the starts running the water. The mixer is then closed.
• Some models have a special manual valve for initial filling - this will be indicated in their instructions.
• The water heater is connected to the mains, the required temperature is set on the thermostat. The indicator lights up in the working state on the boiler.
• The remains to monitor the water temperature rise and the thermostat activation when it reaches its parameter.
• And, of course, at the initial start-up, you should make sure in the absence of leakage at all pipe-hose or flexible hose assemblies.

Video: recommendations for the installation of an electric boiler