Extension to the house with their own hands

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting in the house, conducting a sewer in the house or the need to close the entrance door from direct exposure to cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, the extension of the kitchen, the arrangement of the bathroom, or simply the erection of the veranda.

Attachment to the house with their own hands can be made of wood, brick or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Room requirements

Toit was not necessary to make additional changes in the attached building, it is better to think over all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Additional room

If you want to add one living room to the house, will have to try , since this work is almost equivalent to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise heating, conducted by into it, will not be effective. - is one of the main conditions for living space. The second important condition for the normal residence of - is the lack of dampness in the room, and means , requires reliable waterproofing.

Kitchen or bathroom

When installing these rooms, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are being sent to the site of construction - in particular - sewage pipes. Perhaps will have to conduct separately and running water.

In addition, you should also pay attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, think about reliable floor waterproofing.

Veranda

Veranda - is an lightweight structure that basically protects the main entrance to the house from wind and rain or is used for summer rest. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and can be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a raised roof.

This structure does not require special insulation, but the waterproofing for the foundation hold all and will have .

Foundation device for

extension

The foundation for an extension can be a tape, laid out of bricks or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has advantages and disadvantages. To dwell on one of them, you need to find out how each structure works, and choose the one that is more will approach to specific extension.

Information on the erection of the foundation

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material on the erection of the basement. The detailed technology of building a foundation with pictures for each stage will allow you to master technology in perfection.

In addition, we advise you to familiarize yourself with the information on erecting the columnar foundation - a reference to the material.

Tape foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following order:

• First you need to make marking and tracing the place where the extension will be delivered. This is done using the rope , which is stretched on the ground and fixed with pegs.

• Next, the digs a trench to the same depth as the base on the at its home. It will not be bad before pouring concrete, fixing the reinforcement uniting the foundations of the main structure and extension.
• The width of the trench must be greater than the planned wall thickness per 100 - 150 mm.
• Once the trench is excavated the goes further its preparation. First comes backfilling to the bottom of the sand cushion thickness of 100 - 120 mm. Its must be carefully tamped.
• The next layer is covered with rubble or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
• Next to the perimeter of the , a waterproofing is laying in the trench, which must be exposed to the surface of the ground on 40 - 50 cm, as it must close not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for the above with its parts.
• waterproof film is fitted with a welded reinforcement structure that must repeat the foundation form, with the to its full height.
• Then the reinforcement is poured with coarse concrete mortar from of cement and gravel, at ⅓ of trench height, and after solidification of this layer the next - is poured for one second remaining height.

• After pouring this layer, it is possible to engage in the device of wooden formwork for the formation of the aboveground part of the foundation - the socle. The waterproof film is left inside the formwork, its is straightened along the and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into the concrete.
• Ready concrete is poured into the prepared formwork. Then the solution is pierced in several places by a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can slightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to become as tight as possible.

• After completing the foundation pouring, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprinkling with water daily for hardening.
• After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and transferred to the waterproofing of the foundation from the outside.
• Before start erection of walls, it is recommended to additionally coat the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, use liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and ruberoid.

• The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways with - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor device on them.

Video - erection of an extension to the house on a strip foundation

Column foundation

In addition to the basement, a columnar can be constructed, which is constructed of brick or concrete, and also in a combination of these materials. Basically, this variation of nt pr is called for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications connected with water supply or with water removal in an unheated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

The column foundation is most often satisfied in the event that it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is performed in several stages:

• The first step of the is the markup of the plot selected for the extension. Posts should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

• Digging excavations for each column separately. Their depth should be 500 - 600 mm, with a side of the square of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the , the pits should slightly expand - by approximately 100 mm on each side.

• The is further reinforced in the bottom as in the case of a foundation foundation, using sand and gravel , covering the waterproofing.
• If the pillars are to be erected from a brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Just waiting for it to freeze, make a bricklaying.
• If the poles are concrete, the reinforcement structure and the formwork are placed on the bottom of the pit to the height of the future pillar. Film waterproofing is allowed inside formwork and fixed on top it ;
• Concrete is poured layer by layer. Each layer should grasp well before the next is poured;
• We px st Olba is well leveled and sprayed daily with water until the solidifies completely;
• After the poles are ready, formwork is removed from them and is waterproofed with ruberoid, which is glued to the heated bituminous mastic.
• In the remaining gap between the ground and the pillars, backfill is done, ramming every 100 - 150 mm of buried soil mixed with crushed stone.
• For each of the pillars, several layers of roofing material - are applied to the waterproofing of wooden blocks, which will be stacked on top of the poles.

Base unit floor installation

If a strip foundation is selected, it can be arranged as a wooden or concrete floor. The columnar foundation without jumpers assumes the construction of a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make the reliable and a warm floor screed inside the basement, needs to carry out the work of the in stages, adhering to the of a particular technology.

• To begin with, an additional soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250 - 350 mm.
• At the bottom of the excavation is poured and tamped a sand ten-centimeter cushion. It can be laid on top of rubble, but for insulation of the coupler instead of , gravel is used with expanded clay, poured in a layer of 15 - 20 cm.

• The clayite is leveled and the rebar is laid on it. After its installation, from above arrange a system of beacons on the chosen horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or an open terrace, may require the of a certain surface slope to allow the floor of the water to flow freely into the catchment system.
• The is then laid on the prepared surface with cement mortar and leveled using the rule. After a day its can be covered with polyethylene with film - , then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the extension walls are erected, any decorative covering or wooden floor can be laid on the concrete foundation obtained.

Floor on wooden beams

• Beams of overlap - are wooden blocks of rather large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. They can not be saved, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability of the .

• The beams are laid on poles or a strip foundation, the px cd of the supplied roofing substrate is applied, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways by the - with through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersection points are also fastened with the help of powerful corners.

• They will hold reliably , because the wooden flooring " black " and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastening.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of an extension

A brick or frame wall can be constructed on a finished strip foundation, columnar ones are mainly used for frame structures. If it is planned to make brickwork on the poles, the will have to make additional concrete bridges between the poles.

Frame walls

• The frame for future walls is constructed from a bar and fixed to the previously installed coronal joists of the floor. The bars can be fixed to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to collect wall elements horizontally on a flat surface, and then already set them in a vertical position already assembled.

• To connect the frame to the wall of the house, it makes an ideally accurate vertical marking, over which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

• For reliability all bars are joined together by metal corners.

• Having installed the whole frame of the extension, it is better to immediately trim it with boards or plywood( OSB) from the outside. The lining will immediately make the design more rigid .

• . The upper horizontal beam running along the house is attached to the main wall with the help of of reliable metal corners or by anchor fasteners.
• The walls are warmed after the roof.

Video: another example of the construction of an easy extension to the house

Brick walls

How to make a brick extension wall?

Before the erection of brick walls, we recommend that you read the article on our portal, which details how to lay a brick.

And also look at the information about the insulation of the walls.

• Before you start erecting a brick wall, you need to carefully check the horizontal surface of the foundation and, if necessary, align its to the ideal. If the basis of the is uneven, the masonry may crack from deformation upon shrinkage.
• It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. In order to connect the annex with the main wall, in it during the erection of the walls, drill holes into two thirds of the depth, through each two or three masonry rows. In them, reinforcement is embedded, which should protrude from the wall for about half a meter. It should be in the seams of future masonry. To the seams of the in these rows were not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick or the should have in the bricks of the series, on which the reinforcement will be laid, to make a deepening.
• If a brick extension is fitted to a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, in which is installed from inside the house with an armature with transverse stop, which will hold its in the wall. The fittings are also installed as the wall is built, through each two or three series.

• Before the beginning of laying along the future wall, the string is stretched over which it will be easy to control the horizontality of the rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
• The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If it is a living room, then you should make a masonry, at least in one or two bricks. If the premises will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then it will be enough to lay masonry in half a brick.
• Having built brick walls, they are connected all over the top with a concrete belt. For it, formwork is made, reinforcement structure is laid in and reinforced with concrete mortar. After the solution has solidified from the belt, formwork is removed, and it is possible to proceed to the device of overlapping.

It should be noted that it is not so easy to build brick walls as as seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process ss to to an aluminized mason or choose another kind of walls.

Overlap of the extension and roof

After the walls are erected, a ceiling must be made. It will need beams - beams, which are installed on the top of the walls, at a distance of 60 cm - from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If beams are laid on a brick structure, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, having previously wrapped the edge of each of them with a ruberoid.

The next step of the is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid between the beams.

Building a roof

How to make a roof with your own hands?- turn-based technology will help you understand.

In addition, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material on the classic roof - here.

Information on the construction of a gable roof with their own hands for the extension - link.

The roof of the extension can have different constructions, but basically the single-skinned variant is chosen, which is worth considering.

• This construction consists of rafters on which the roofing is laid. This type of roof is arranged enough just , the main thing is - to find the right angle of gradient. It must be at least 25 - 30 degrees - it is necessary to ensure that the precipitation in the winter time does not stay on the surface, otherwise they can its just damage.
• Having determined the angle of the slope, on the wall or the front part of the roof, a mark is made in the form of a horizontal flat line along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be fixed. The lower support for them will serve as previously laid beams overlapping or cut off the wall. The rafters should extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls to 250 - 300 mm, in order to maximally protect the walls from rainwater.
• Fasten the rafters, too, using metal corners.
• It will be more difficult to solve the roof slope problem if the annex is installed on the side with which the ramp of the main building of the house is arranged, since there is simply no way to fasten the transverse beam. Therefore , it is possible that will have to remove several lower rows( sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the roofing system and combine the common covering.
• It is necessary for the to determine in advance which roof will be laid on top of the rafter system. If it is a soft roof or flexible shingles, then the top rafters are laid and fixed solid material, for example, plywood or frequent transverse crate .
• If large fabrics( roofing iron, metal roofing, slate and , etc. .) Are installed, they can be laid lapped with each other directly installed rafters.
• When the system under the cover material is ready, it is recommended to lay the waterproofing on the .In the first case, it is covered with plywood, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
• On top of the waterproofing material, the roofing is laid, beginning with the of the lower part of the rafter system and lifting the to the top of the .If it is necessary to carry out the unification of the roof, then during the docking the upper row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
• If the roof is adjoined by the top part of the roof to the wall or the front part of the roof, the joint between them must necessarily be waterproof .
• When the roof above the erected extension is ready, you can proceed to the insulation of walls and floor.

Thermal insulation of the inside

If the room is residential, then without reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and the is insulated with , then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Heat insulation of the floor on the beams

How to insulate the floor of the extension made on the beams?

Read the articles:

1. Underfloor heating with claydite;2. Underfloor heating on the first floor;3. Underfloor heating on the balcony;

If floor joists were installed on a columnar foundation, the work proceeds as follows:

• The floor joists are fixed with cross bars from smaller bars.
• On the logs it is recommended to arrange a rough floor, in this case it is better to lay boards for it with solid flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

• Further, all the rough coating is smeared with a thick enough clay mortar, and after drying, the vapor barrier is applied to it.
• Between lag tightly lay mineral wool, pour clay or slag.

• On top of the insulation again closes the vapor barrier, and on the it is covered with a wooden floor of boards or plywood.
• On plywood can be at once the decorative covering is laid, or for it can be the infra-red film is arranged.

Concrete floor

Concrete floor can be insulated as follows:

• Mineral wool laid between fixed on a concrete base of the log and closed then with boards or plywood.
• One of the systems warm floor( electric or water), which is laid in the final leveling screed ;
• Infrared film , laid on a thin thermo reflective substrate, and covered with decorative coating ;
• Dry screed and with gypsum fiber slabs.

When the floors are insulated, you can go to the thermal insulation of the walls.

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the detailed information about the flooring of a wooden floor with your own hands - a link to an article.

After the floor is ready you need a floor screed. We recommend you read the information on the dry floor screed.

Frame walls

• For internal insulation of walls, use mineral wool, produced in mats. They are convenient to stack between the bars of the frame. This work is simple and is done quickly enough.
• When the walls are covered with a heater, it is tightened with the vapor-proof film, fixing its on the bars with staples.
• Then the wall can be covered with natural wooden lining, OSB slabs or plywood, plasterboard or GVL - there are a lot of options, there are a lot to choose from.

Styrofoam can be used as a wall insulator, but its environmental and operational qualities are significantly worse than for quality mineral wool.

Brick walls

Brick walls are usually internally trim plaster or plasterboard, and the insulation is carried out from the outside, but do it in a different way.

Warming, if space permits, can be carried out in the same way as in a frame structure, fixing the bars on the walls and laying mineral wool between them, and then closing the structure with plasterboard slabs. On this cover you can glue wallpaper or any other decorative material.

How to insulate brick walls?

We recommend you to read an article about: insulation of walls from the outside, as well as about the insulation of walls with foam.

In addition, read the material - sawdust as a heater.

To do everything right, you need to thoroughly study each stage of erection of an extension and adhere to the developed technologies. If there is no confidence in their capabilities, there is a clear lack of skills and experience in construction, it is better to entrust this rather complex work to qualified masters.