The construction of a log house is one of the best options. And in terms of the effectiveness of health procedures, and the ability to perform all the work on erecting the building yourself. It is worth noting that the finished "brusovoe" construction "turnkey" in less than 450 000 rubles will not do, and then, with a rather modest size of the premises.
There is no point in dwelling on such issues as dignity( although there are some drawbacks) baths from the bar, the rules for selecting and storing( storing) products and the like aspects of the entire construction process. If it is decided to use this material, it is natural that the owner with all such nuances is already familiar.
However, it will not be superfluous to remind individual moments.
- Natural moisture bar must be used immediately. If the material is left "for later", then in the process of shrinkage of the billet can be trite "story", since it is difficult to create optimal conditions for uniform drying of the products( throughout the depth of the structure) at home. In addition, you need to know and all the subtleties of this technology, and among the individual developers of professionals is not so much, and their capabilities are limited.
- Recommended dimensions of the timber: for external and bearing walls - 15 x 15, for partitions - 10 x 15( cm).Such cross-sections are an optimal combination of requirements for strength and thermal conductivity of all structural elements of the bath.
- After the material has been purchased, it is necessary to sort it. In any party, even the best quality products, there are always some samples with at least small defects. This does not mean that they are completely unsuitable for installation. Such a bar should be shelved separately and laid only when building internal walls. But for external it is better not to use.
The order of construction of a bath from a bar
Each owner himself, proceeding from financial possibilities, will define both architecture, and internal planning of a bath, and a kind of finishing materials. Therefore, we will dwell only on the main stages of construction.
Construction of the foundation
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Preliminary clearance of the building site with the calculation of convenience of work. - The simplest type of foundation, with regard to the small weight of the bath - "tape"( monolith) is very shallow - the construction of such a foundation is described in detail here. After marking the plot, a trench is prepared for the installation of the formwork. The width of the tape, taking into account the laying of the beam, is within the range of 35 - 40 cm. Therefore, the trench digs a little larger, since it will be necessary to install panels( shields) of the fence under the solution pouring.
- Arrangement on its bottom of a sand-gravel "pillow" with a layer of 10 - 15 cm, followed by water pouring and ramming.
- Installation of reinforcing frame.
- Loading of concrete mass. The solution is poured into the formwork in pieces, to a height of no more than 20 cm, after which it is compacted( reinforcing steel pins, scrap or shovel - as it is more convenient).Throughout the area of the loaded material, it repeatedly pierces in order to release air and excess water to the surface.
Nuances
- It is necessary to put so-called "mortgages".These are metal, vertically positioned pins. It is on them that the beams of the lower rim of the bath will be "planted" to exclude their horizontal displacement.
- The formwork is installed in such a way that the top section of the foundation rises above the ground not less than 15-20 cm.
- A separate "own" base is installed under the oven in the bath. Optimal option, given its small size and significant weight - the foundation columnar. The easiest way is to chute the pipes( asbestos cement, plastic), install metal pins( for reinforcement) in them and fill the cavities with mortar.
Horizontal waterproofing
It is necessary to exclude direct contact of wood with concrete, otherwise moisture penetration( from below) can not be avoided. To do this, the upper part of the tape is covered with mastic( on bitumen base), on which a waterproofing material is applied( for example, a thick film of PE, ruberoid).It is desirable that there are at least 2 such layers.
Sometimes "stacks" under the uneven bars of the 1st row are additionally stacked - slats located across the tape.
Construction of a log house
Various ways are used for connecting the beam. But for a bath, taking into account the specificity of this structure( excess moisture), it is desirable to do all the joints "butt".What does it mean? The products are joined to each other by the end parts, but are fastened by metal plates or staples.
Why is this better? This technique will, if necessary, quickly and "painlessly" replace rotten timber without partial disassembly of the log house. If the reader does not agree with this statement of the question, then there are more than enough methods for editing information on the Internet. But they require some experience, and more time!
Nuances
- After installing the lower crown, make sure its geometry is correct. To do this, it is enough to measure the diagonals and compare the values. At this stage of the work, it will still be possible to correct something.
- Between the rows of beams is laid the material of an intervent insulation - jute tape, felt or otherwise, at the discretion of the owner. The picture shows the cheapest option - insulation with moss.
- It is desirable to plan openings( doors, windows) at once, and not saw later. But the boxes are installed only after the final shrinkage of the wood.
The roof of the
options can be multiple. But the general requirements for the upper ceiling of the bath are such( considering that warm air tends upwards):
- quality thermal insulation;
- is sufficient vapor permeability;
- reliable waterproofing.
Interior lining
The material selection is a separate conversation. But what you need to pay attention to is the warming of the building, reliable waterproofing of all surfaces and high-quality ventilation. Compliance with these conditions will ensure the effectiveness of the procedure, and the durability of the bath. Read more about the insulating baths here.
Additional activities
- After the shrinkage of the wood, all the crevices are necessarily konopatyatsya( and they will be).If the gaps are quite large( for example, in the places where the door blocks are installed), then mounting foam is used.
- Connection to utilities( water, sewage, electricity / supply).
Practical recommendations of
- Regardless of the type of wood purchased from the tree, it is recommended to take larch for the lower crown assembly. This wood is characterized by the fact that during operation, even partially absorbing moisture, it becomes only stronger.
- To reduce the cost of building a bath during the construction of the 3rd and subsequent rows, it is advisable to use softwood material( pine or spruce).
- Without fail, each workpiece must be treated with special means( flame retardants and antiseptics), and even before the installation.
- For sale there is a special sealant( "warm seam", for wood).The bucket costs approximately 4,100-4,300 rubles. For caulking the bath is the best option, which does not require much time and practical experience.
