How to make a wooden front door

It is impossible to imagine a full room without an entrance door. This, at times the most unpretentious design, has a tremendous responsibility. Entrance doors must perform many functions, the main of which are to ensure the safety of the home and the preservation of heat. In this article we will tell you in detail how to make a wooden front door with your own hands.

Door with keys

Imagine the simplest wooden door that often stands at the entrance to the barnor a hut. This is the door with dowels. It can be built by almost anyone, if it follows the instructions. Wooden entrance doors from the array do not have high aesthetic characteristics, however they can reliably protect the premises from penetration, and if they are also insulated, then from the cold. However, the main purpose of doors with keys is fences for sheds, barns and barns.

The design can be made without gaps for better heat preservation or with small gaps to monitor animals if it is standing in a stable.

The main material - an array and boards, two keys and a diagonal strut, which is needed to ensure that the door does not warp.

The most elementary option is to pin the swivel and dowels on the door leaf. For those who are not looking for easy ways, it is suggested to insert the dowels into the door panels. To do this, you need to make the keys to the appropriate size.

In the olden times, such doors were made with a manual saw-award, laying the boards of the panel in a row and carefully aligning them. Then fixed, made a marking and fixed a bar, sawed at 45 degrees. On this bar slots were cut in half or a quarter of the board. After that, with the help of a chisel, remove all unnecessary and align the bottom of the groove, where the dowels were pushed through the entire width of the canvas. The thicker the key, the safer the door. It is better to put dowels on pins or glue. This will save if the wood will crack.

The trowel should be cut from one side at an angle to the key without gaps, then attach and chart the angle for the second side cutting. When all the blanks are made, attach the overlay to the canvas.

Today, this process is much easier and faster, thanks to the availability of modern technology. The cuts are easily made by a circular saw, which itself can accurately expose the desired degree.

Doors without gaps are perfect for building a Russian bath. In addition, it is several times cheaper than buying a door in a store or ordering a locksmith.

Panel doors

Wooden entrance doors of panel type are among the most common. You can create them yourself, but this will require skills in handling woodworking tools. If you are not sure about your capabilities, it is better to buy or order such a design.

First you need to understand what a panel is. The panel is a smooth shield, inserted into the harness. It can be made from a single leaf or several boards. In the harness, a groove is cut into which a profile is inserted, located at the ends of the door leaf.

Materials

For the production of panel doors, you must choose lumber for the vertical parts of the door frame and the blade itself. Since the parts themselves are long, for them it is necessary to select quality hardwood.

The panels and short parts can be made from cheap wood.

Required preforms:

• slats 65x32 mm cross-section;
• slats with a width of 45 mm.

To make the slats 65x32 mm, cut straight blanks 65 mm wide from a 32 mm thick bar.

Processing

When the workpieces are cut, you can start processing the material.

Progress:

• planks from all sides to achieve a smooth and smooth surface;
• distribute the workpieces along the bars for subsequent gluing;
• prepare the bars for the door frame. They should be with a cross-section of 62x80 mm, bars for tying - 62x140 mm;
• , glue together the blanks distributed over the blocks with the aid of a moisture resistant wood glue. Apply glue with a roller, rolling a thin layer on both glued surfaces. Billets form in a bar, squeeze the joinery clamps until the glue dries completely( about 40-50 minutes);
• when the glue is high, trowen the bars to the required dimensions and make the end trimming along the length, checking each part;
• start milling. To do this, mark out all the details, guided by the drawing of the box and the canvas. For the construction of the paneled door, the connections must be made into a spike. Cut out the holes( eyes) to insert the spike of the adjacent element. Cut on the vertical elements of the box;
• make a stud on the edges of the transverse parts of the door frame;
• if only the spike was made on the outside of the vertical parts, then not only the spike, but also the eyes should be made on the inside. The length of the stud is 40 mm. On the horizontal strapping parts, profge the spike with a "darkness" of 25 mm.

Production of panels

The thickness of the glued workpieces for panels in our case is 45 mm. Line out the workpieces, reducing the thickness to 40 mm. In this case, the length and width of the panels should coincide with the gaps on the already mounted door leaf with the addition of 10 mm. For example, if the lumen is 100x100 mm, then the panel will be 110x110 mm.

In the workpiece with a milling cutter, make grooves for installation in the sheet. Profit the visible surface of the element to enhance the aesthetics of the appearance. At the end, grind the panels with a machine tool or sandpaper, paying special attention to the cross sections.

Assembling the door

When you are done with the milling work, you can proceed to the long-awaited assembly of the door leaf.

Procedure:

• assemble the door frame, having treated all the spikes with glue and fixing the structure with clamps;
• first gather the bottom of the fabric, then - the top, then connect them together and install the outer vertical strapping elements;
• squeeze the door with clamps, trace the defects, if any, and eliminate them;
• conduct preliminary grinding and milling grooves for mounting panels on the outside of the door leaf. The panels for the outside should be installed by the "floating" method, for the inner side - by imposing them on the strapping and fixing with screws. Screws can be masked with decorative elements, creating an original design of wooden entrance doors( photo);
• the emptiness between the inner and outer panels in the future must be filled with a heater( sheet foam, mineral wool, etc.).

Door blocks

When you buy a door in the salon or order in the workshop, then besides the door itself you bring a door frame, or a door unit. For exterior doors, frames made of thick logs( 75-150 mm) are made. The second entrance wooden doors are usually supplied with a block made of thinner bars( up to 50 mm).

Any front door must have a lower bar, which will act as a threshold, thereby increasing the thermal insulation of the room. Internal doors are deprived of such a door as unnecessary. Moreover, they will constantly stumble over him, moving from one room to another. Therefore, it would be completely irrational to put the interior door instead of the entrance door and vice versa.

Choose a door frame on the inner surface in a quarter, so that the door leaf is as close to it as possible. So you protect your house from frost and provide good sound insulation. The gap that remains under the canvas is needed in order to compensate for possible sagging and minimal ventilation. If desired, you can simply cover it with a beautiful rug.

How to fasten door blocks

If you install a door unit in a wooden room that is not subject to draft, then fix the frame on the walls in the quarters with nails or screws. If you arrange them in quarters, they will be almost invisible and will not affect the neat appearance of the door. The heads can be siped, puttyed or covered with special decorative plugs.

Recommendations for the installation of blocks:

• fasten the door units only with the help of a level, fixing with wedges both horizontally and vertically;
• on vertical bars should be allowed at least three nails for greater stability;
• in sagging logs mount on the lower crown, and fasteners, which will be higher, given that they will have to be removed. When the frame completely sits down, then it will be possible to change temporary fastenings to permanent ones;
• If you are installing a block in a stone house, use embedded bars, reinforcement pins or anchor bolts.

How to adjust the doors

Very often after installation immediately or after a certain time, the doors begin to close loosely, creak or close too tightly. In this case, you need to know how to adjust them.

Door adjustment means lubrication of fittings, hinges, suspenders or replacement of fasteners for longer ones, installation of wedges into empty holes from self-tapping screws, etc. Repair of the entrance wooden door should be carried out as a preventive measure, and not waiting for visible discomfort. Do this at least once a year( preferably in the spring).

Use thick and hard formulations for lubrication. It can be a graphite rod, grease or solidol.

Remove or lift the door on hinges, place the grease in the hole and put the door back in place. Do not feel sorry for the grease, but you do not need to put too much. If you overdo it, the lubricant will come out of the loop from the pressure. Then it must be removed immediately, so as not to contaminate the door or clothes.

If the door has strongly sagged and started scratching the floor, place the washers on the axis between the door hinge cards or rearrange the hinges a little higher.

To avoid opening the door with a handle against the wall, fix the buffer on the floor, placing it as far as possible from the hinges so that it does not loosen them.