Ways of fastening cornices for curtains to the ceiling and walls

An important element of interior design is the curtains, giving the room a complete look. However, what will look like the decoration of curtains in the final version, largely depends on the eaves and the way it is fastened.

Types of cornices

Currently, a quite diverse range of cornices is produced, striking in its refinement and uniqueness, which can be grouped with respect to a certain feature.

Classification of cornices according to material

• Plastic is the most common option due to the abundance of different shapes, colors and low cost. However, under the weight of heavy curtains, deformation of the cornice with time is not excluded.

• Wooden - a combination of functionality, reliability, aesthetics. Cornices made of wood, produced in a variety of shapes, can be additionally decorated with decorative carvings. In addition, they perfectly withstand the weight of heavy curtains without any deformation.

• Metal cornices - made of steel, brass or aluminum and can be decorated with plastic or wooden elements. In this case, steel and brass cornices easily withstand even heavy theatrical curtains, while aluminum are designed for an easier version of curtains. Particular attention in this category deserves forged cornices, characterized by special strength and unique design.

Classification of cornices according to the design features of

1. Profile cornices - made of aluminum, plastic, with any method of fastening the cornice, characterized by small dimensions, low cost and easy installation. In addition, profile cornices can simply be hidden in a ceiling niche or draped with lambrequins or by hanging a baguette. Profile cornices are divided into:

• rigid cornice with one internal rail - consists of a single row rake, and also latches for fastening to brackets. To create additional rows, such cornices are complemented by decorative models;

• flexible cornice with an external rail - only available in single row, but it is easy to bend, cut, which facilitates ease of installation. To obtain additional rows, the required number of profiles is set in parallel;

• flexible cornice with internal rail - the bend of the cornice is given in the factory, forming the shape of a bay window, an arch or a combination of a bay window and an arch. And the cornice with an arched bend can be two-row, and the bay window and bay window-arched bend only corresponds to a single-row cornice;

• bus bar - it is impossible to bend. However, in order to obtain the bay window, the connecting pivot element is additionally used.

2. Baguette - produced in the form of a decorative strip, securely hiding the brackets. Concerning other species, framed cornices have a low cost. Although in terms of design are not inferior to either profile or rod studs.

3. Rod cornices - are presented in the form of a rectangular, circular or shaped section. Produced from wood or metal. The complete set, as a rule, includes brackets, holders of curtains and tips. For attaching the rod to the wall, the ceiling is provided with open or closed brackets.

4. String - used for light tulle curtains. This is a relatively cheap option, from all available categories, and the most unreliable, because even under a small weight the string begins to sag with time and it must be constantly tightened.

Classification of cornices in relation to the number of rows of

1. Single row cornices - for fastening one tulle or curtains.
2. Double row - designed for fastening curtains and curtains.
3. Three-row cornices - open the opportunity to decorate the interior of the room as a tulle, curtains curtains, and lambrequins.

Classification by fastening method

The fastening of the cornice is directly dependent on the material used to finish the ceiling, walls.

1. Ceiling cornices, fastening directly to the ceiling, offer ample opportunities for creating an original design. Especially indispensable, they are in the presence of high windows that do not leave space for fixing the wall cornices. In addition, the appearance of ceiling cornices allowed to solve many of the problems that arise when using a wall cornice.

Advantages of the ceiling cornices with respect to the wall:

• contribute to a visual increase in the space of the room;
• large selection of colors;
• possibility of flush mounting;
• ability to withstand heavy weight curtains;
• an arbitrary choice of distance from the wall to the eaves, which allows you to hide pipes and radiators behind the curtains;
• the possibility of hiding the small flaws left after the ceiling;
• low cost.

Disadvantages:

• modest design;
• limited installation with direct placement of light bulbs in the ceiling, finished with plasterboard.
• impossibility of installation in the presence of stretch ceilings, with an unequipped place for making fixtures.

2. Wall cornices, first produced several centuries ago, are still in high demand. Moreover, the decorativeness of modern wall cornices does not require hiding their appearance in the cornices.

Pros of wall cornices in front of the ceiling:

• wide choice of colors;
• originality of design;
• efficiency by reducing the consumption of fabric for sewing curtains;
• possibility of fixing to a wall in a ceiling niche;
• simplicity of installation;
• high cost for ceiling cornices.

Cons:

• visually somewhat reduces the height of the room;
• need to carefully measure the required length of the bracket in order to avoid the subsequent bending of the curtains about the protruding radiators of heating, the angles of the window projections.

Thus, the choice of the design of the ceiling or wall cornice largely depends on the interior style, the type of curtains, as well as fastening the finished curtains to the cornice.

Ceiling mounting

Today, the ceilings are exposed to putty, followed by painting, plastering, lining the stretch ceilings. Proceeding from this, the ways of fastening the cornices to the ceiling also differ significantly among themselves. Optimal location of the ceiling cornice is selected based on the following factors:

• the length of the cornice should be greater than the window opening by 30-50 cm;
• in the closed state, the curtains must not touch the projecting wall elements.

To concrete ceiling, or plasterboard

If it is a bus bar type, then:

1. Measure and cut the required length of the cornice.
2. Hook the hooks if the eaves model on the edges is provided with curved details.
3. Drill a hole in the middle of the tire using 2 drill bits of different diameters. First, a hole is made from the front side of the eaves with a drill slightly larger than the diameter of the screw of the screw or screw, so that the cap drowns slightly at the base of the cornice. Then the hole is drilled with a drill of smaller diameter.
4. With a step of 50-60 cm, drill such holes along the entire length of the cornice. However, with a single-row cornice, it is sufficient to make a hole in 1 row, and in case of a row-row cornice it is enough to make a 2 row or a zigzag.
5. Attach the cornice to the marked spot on the ceiling.
6. With a pencil make a mark of the central hole and drill it to the depth of the dowel.
7. Dip the dowel in the hole with a hammer.
8. Fasten the tire to the center mount and make marks along the entire length of the tire.
9. Drill out the remaining holes and secure the tire to the ceiling.

In the case of a suspended ceiling made of gypsum board, instead of the usual dowels a "butterfly" dowel is used. When screwing, getting into the empty space, the dowel-"butterfly" opens like a umbrella, increasing the area of ​​load on the plasterboard.

When using a ceiling cornice, which is fixed to the ceiling by means of brackets, the task is greatly facilitated, since the brackets have ready-made holes. It remains:

• to assemble the cornice;
• make the marking of the ceiling in the mounting brackets;
• attach the assembled cornice to the markings on the ceiling;
• chart and drill holes;
• attach the cornice to the ceiling using conventional dowels or butterfly dowels.

To tension ceiling

Fastening the ceiling cornice to the tension ceiling means fixing to the embedded bar located between the capital and tension ceiling. At the same time, the mortgage bar must be securely attached to the capital ceiling before measuring the tension ceiling. The size of the bar should correspond to the height of the frame, which is necessary when the plastic cloth is tensioned. Thus, the gauger will indicate the location of the future cornice on the scheme and when making the ceiling, the canvas in this place will be strengthened additionally. After installing the stretch ceiling:

1. Mark the eaves fixing point on the tensioned film within the framework of the embedded bar.
2. Before drilling, the holes in the stretch ceiling must first be reinforced with polymer rings and then burned.
3. Drill the holes to the depth of the dowels.
4. Install the cornice.

Mounting of the

wall cornice All types of cornices, the fasteners of which assume wall mounting, are installed almost identically. Correct installation of the wall ledge implies compliance with the following conditions:

1. The cornice should protrude 30-50 cm from both sides of the window opening so that when the curtains open, sunlight enters the room through the entire window opening.
2. The minimum distance from the ceiling to the eaves to be installed, as well as from the window to the eave, is at least 5-10 cm.
3. Heating radiators and other elements protruding from the wall should not interfere with the free drooping of the curtains, so you need to choose brackets based on this factor.
4. For secure attachment of the curtain rod intended for curtains of medium gravity, the brackets must be positioned every 1.5 m, and for heavier curtains after 1 m.

To the

wall. All brackets have ready holes for securing the eave, therefore:

1. Connect the cornicewith brackets.
2. Attach to the wall and map out the holes for drilling.
3. Drill, insert conventional dowels or dowels - "butterflies", based on the finishing material.
4. Fasten the cornice.

Between the walls of the

When fixing the eaves between the walls, the distances on each side of the wall are carefully measured:

• from ceiling to eave level;
• from a wall with a window opening to the fixing point of the cornice.

This is necessary to avoid deviation from the horizontal position.

1. Identify the locations of future holes.
2. Drill holes along the length of the dowels.
3. Remove the dowels.
4. Lock the brackets and install the eaves on them.

Concealed installation of ceiling, wall cornice

Concealed installation implies fixing the cornice in a niche prepared before installation of tension or plasterboard ceilings.

1. Install the curtain rod, based on the fixing method, to the wall or ceiling. Away from the eaves 0.5-1 cm, attach to the capital ceiling of the embedded beam, corresponding to the height of the frame for installing gypsum board or stretch ceilings.
2. Make the installation of the tensioning cloth or dry it with gypsum board, closing the block at the maximum.

Thus, it is not such an impossible task to fix the cornices for curtains, as it seems at first glance. The main thing is that before assembling it is necessary to take into account all the nuances associated with the material to which the fastening will be made.

Variants of fastening of curtains on cornice

The various assortment of ceiling and wall cornices implies the use of certain fastenings for curtains, suitable for this or that cornice.

1. With baguette, profile ceiling cornices, less often with barbells,

• perfectly combines special hooks, which make it easy to slide on the cornice. For this purpose, fabric loops are sewn on the curtains, decorated, for example, with buttons, or a blind tape with the ready-made loops available on it;

• multiple clamps, fixed on the cornice in various ways.

2. For curtain rods use:

• rings, complete with cornice. In this case, the rings are sewn to the curtains, and then threaded on the bar or curtains are hung on hooks fixed on the rings;

• clips fastened to rings. In this case, the rings are put on the bar, after which the curtains are fixed to the cornice by means of clamps. Using rings with clamps allows you to easily adjust the length of the curtains;

• eyelets located in the upper part of the curtains serve not only as a method of fastening curtains, but also perform a decorative function, hiding a completely or partially walled cornice. When sewing curtains, eyelets fasten directly to the fabric, so when positioned on the ledge, the curtains fall into three-dimensional even folds;

• hinges at the outset. Sewed on the front or the underside of the curtains, then tied on the bar. Look good in the nursery, however, it is difficult to move / move the curtains with such fastenings;

• magnets;

• the kuliska. In the upper part of the blind, a strip is drawn, serving as one "large" loop for threading the rod into it. The simplest version of the fastening, which causes inconvenience in operation, since such curtains are difficult to move on the cornice.

3. For string cornices suitable:

• small rings, attached to the tulle or ring with clips;

• magnets. Allow to change the design of curtains at any moment, just just disconnect the magnets.

4. For any type of cornices:

• loop on Velcro. This kind of fastening of curtains does not allow to move them on the ledge, therefore it is used only for fastening decorative curtains, lambrequins.

Proceeding from the above, before you begin to directly fix the cornice, you need to decide on the choice of wall or ceiling cornice, as well as the type of fastening curtains on the future cornice.