For women - the mirror is an indispensable subject of furniture interior. A convenient and useful table - a bedside table equipped with a mirror - stands out in the interior, but at the same time it should harmoniously correspond to the general style of furniture design.
Contents
- Drawing and necessary materials for a mirror with a mirror
- Drawing and assembling a table with cupboards for a dressing table
- Making and assembling a drawer for a table with a mirror
- Attaching facades and fixing a mirror on a dressing table
It's not very difficult to make a dressing table yourself. A classical dressing table with a mirror is a table with drawers and one or two tables. A good option is a corner dressing table with triple treble mirror. First, check out the views of the mirror, photos of which are laid out on the Internet and find the right option for yourself.
Drawing and necessary materials for a mirror with a mirror
Draw a pencil with an exact drawing of the dressing table with all the dimensions. The drawing will help you determine the required number of materials and accessories for self-made dressing.
- Table cabinet - bedside tables are made of laminated chipboard with a thickness of at least 2 cm, the rear walls of the bedside tables and the bottom of drawers made of fiberboard. Mirror and fixtures for it can be bought in a store of furniture fittings, there you also need to purchase hinges for front doors, the facades for drawers, skids for them and doors for pedestals. Facades from MDF do not need additional processing, just get suitable loops for them.
- Select the same knobs and purchase the end ribbon. The legs can be made by yourself or purchased ready. The end is flat and welded with an iron and "P" - shaped, which is attached to the glue. It will be necessary and connecting hardware - screws, screws, confirmats, metal mounting brackets, etc. For a table top, get a thicker board made of chipboard, you can even make it to your size.
Cutting and assembling a table with drawers for the dressing table
Apply marking on the chipboard, with a pencil or a thin marker. Straight lines are sawn better on a stationary circular saw with a small-toothed cutting part. Curved lines are made by electric jigsaw. It is very convenient in the interior to look like a corner mirror.
- When working with electric jig saws, pay special attention to correct cutting. The plane of the blade and the end edge must be a right angle. In the case of distortions and chips on the plane of the chipboard - it will be necessary to decorate the edge of the "P" - shaped end ribbon.
- Cut-out workpieces are marked under the holes along the plane and from the front side. For the layout you will need a carpentry corner and an awl. Punctured in the laminated surface of the point, move the marker. Marking several identical holes in the end part of the workpieces, stack them with a pile using a carpenter's corner, draw a vertical line with a pencil and, after determining the center, place the dots with a marker.
- For drilling, you will need a special drill bit for confirming or two conventional wood with a diameter of 5 and 8 mm. In the planes a through hole is drilled 5 mm and a chamfer 8 mm is removed for the confirmation hat. The chamfer is removed at least 2 mm deep. In the end parts a hole 5 mm is drilled to a depth of at least 4 cm. It is important to drill holes without deflections and distortions.
- For assembling the frame into the bedroom, you will need a special "G" or "Z" - a 4 mm hexagonal wrench or a screwdriver for the reverse screwdriver. First, start boring individual parts, leaving a minimal backlash to correct the workpieces. Having received the general picture, having exposed and having corrected details, it is possible to clamp tightly.
- The end band can be of two kinds - flat or "P" - shaped. If the surface is trimmed neatly, without chips and skews, you can glue the flat end. The end PVC tape is exposed on the front edge and is welded with a well heated iron. Surplus edges are removed from the back with a sharp mounting cutter."P" -shaped edge hides the chipped edges and skewed edges, but it creates a border on the plane of the chipboard, and in some places this can create some inconvenience. This trimming can not be used in the places where the blanks are docked or it needs to be cut for a tight abutment of the planes.
Manufacture and assembly of a drawer for the table of the mirror
Determine with the guides. They need two, roller or sliding, you choose, most importantly - do not mix the right with the left. The longer part of the guide is fastened with short screws to the side wall of the mirror, and the second - to the drawer.
- Three boards of equal thickness and height and a facade MDF bar, will be required for the drawer of the dresser. In the lower part, retracting from 5 mm, a longitudinal groove is made, in thickness equal to the thickness of the bottom of the fiberboard or plywood. There is a drawer for confirmats or wooden dowels.
- With a thickness of the side wall of the chipboard of 20 mm, two blind holes for the dowel are not deeper than 15 mm. Standard wooden furniture dowels have dimensions from 4 to 30 mm in diameter and up to 200 mm in length with a longitudinal grooved surface. The structures are assembled under the dowel for PVA glue. The bottom is fixed in the grooves, but does not sit on the glue.
Attaching facades and fixing the mirror on the mirror
- For fixing the mirrors, there are two methods: mechanical fasteners and double-sided adhesive tape for glasses and mirrors. On the perimeter of the figured mirror, drill holes for fixing the diameter to the fasteners and sit on the PVA glue. In the second case, on the back of the mirror there are standard pads or sticky sticky pads from a special double-sided scotch for mirrors.
- For the front doors there are special blind holes for fixing the furniture loops. For doors without landing nests, they must be drilled. Diameter for fastening the furniture loop 35 mm, you need to put a stopper on the drill, since the hole is deaf, with a depth of 12.5 mm. The loop sits in the socket, is leveled and fastened with short screws to the rear side of the facade and the inside of the side wall of the mirror. On the loop there are two adjusting screws, with the help of which the facade is corrected along the planes.
The final touch is the attachment of handles to the facades of thumbs and drawers. To do this, drill holes in the diameter of the fixing screw. Be sure to put metal or plastic washers on the inside. Beautiful stylish pens are always conspicuous and can dramatically change the most ugly furniture.