Warming of the floor in the bath: materials for insulation and step by step instructions

Bath is not just a place where you can clean yourself. A bath for a Russian person is a kind of club, even if you like - a sanctuary. But even such a sacred place should not be cold and uncomfortable. The Russian bath should keep the heat perfectly, keeping it for a long time. Yes, and wash in a room that instantly loses its temperature is also not very pleasant. That is why a good thermal insulation of all rooms in the bath becomes a very important task in its construction. Warming in the bath needs all parts: walls and ceiling, and especially - the floor.

How to insulate the floor in the sauna

What materials are used for floor insulation?

Materials for floor insulation

High humidity and temperature, constantly present when using a bath, dictate a careful approach to the selection of materials used for thermal insulation of floors. In a typical room, which does not have such extreme operating conditions, it is possible to use practically any mineral-based insulation. But here at a floor heat insulation in a bath skilled builders recommend to use a heat-insulating material with cellular structure. The most suitable material that meets all high requirements is a foam of all types. It is widely used for warming floors in rooms with high humidity.

Scheme of floor insulation with a ladder in the drainage bath

There are several approaches to the question, from what material should the floor be organized in the bath rooms. So, it can be made of concrete, or it can be made of wood. When warming the floors of all types, there are some general rules about which we will tell you.

Floor arrangement in the sauna

We warm the wooden floor in the sauna

If you have to insulate the already existing wooden floor, then you will have to initially dismantle the existing flooring.

Removing the old

coating. We are working on the following algorithm:

1. We dismantle the floorboards and plinths. We recommend that you sign the removed items, in order not to get confused when further laying.
2. We perform the inspection of wooden elements. We cut damaged areas and replace them with fresh bars of identical dimension.
3. Extend the lower edges of the logs with smaller bars, creating a support for the rough overlap.
4. Using a cheap lumber we form a black-out overlap. We leave between the boards of overlap and lag gap of about a centimeter.
5. We lay the roughing floor from the scraps of boards, leaving small gaps between them in order to prevent deformation of the floor from temperature deformation. Cuttings of boards can be laid freely on logs without fixing them.
6. 

   In the event that under your bath there is a watery soil - we form a vapor barrier to protect the heat insulator from the action of the heated groundwater. Steam insulation must cover the rough floor along with lags. With a low level of groundwater, we use a vapor barrier membrane, but at a high level it is better to use waterproofing materials, such as glassine or ordinary ruberoid.
7. The insulation layer should completely cover the entire floor, grasping 15 centimeters and walls, forming a kind of "trough".If your waterproofing is supplied in a roll - we cover it with overlapping and fix the stripes with scotch tape. To prevent mixing of steam and waterproofing - sew it with a stapler to the walls and lags.
   

   The scheme of warming the wooden floor in the bath

8. The niches between the wooden logs are filled with a heat insulator, leaving the top of the bar and the upper surface of the insulator about 2 centimeters of air ventilating layer. In the event that the thickness of the insulator is close to the finish coat - put the crate on top of it to create ventilation. The grating pitch should be about 40 centimeters.
9. Add another waterproofing layer, preferably from a membrane material to prevent moisture from entering the heat insulator. The waterproofing should be between the heat-insulating layer and the crate.
10. We make installation of floorboards and plinths, cut off the protruding edges of the waterproofing.

Insulate concrete floor

Insulate concrete floor

Warming of concrete floor in the bath should be done after laying the rough screed. We operate according to the following algorithm:

1. We place the waterproofing on the rough screed. As such, it is possible to use conventional solid polyethylene. We spread the film all over the floor, with the approach to the walls at least 5 centimeters, we can then cut off the excess. When using roll material, we overlap around 10 centimeters, fixing joints with adhesive tape.
2. We lay the heat-insulating material. As a heater can be used ordinary foam. To fix foam plates, we form frames from wooden beams, fix them to the floor with self-tapping screws on dowel plugs.
3. We fill the foam plates and frames with the fixing solution, then place the reinforcing mesh on top. The thickness of the screed above the foam sheets should be at least 2 centimeters.
4. After drying the reinforcing screed, fill the black leveling screed. We use a self-leveling mixture, the total thickness of the screed over the foam should reach 5-8 centimeters. We level the final screed with a needle roller, removing air bubbles.

Insulation of concrete floor in sauna

We create in the bath a warm water floor

Water floor in sauna

A good option for floor insulation in a stationary bathhouse will be the installation of a warm water floor. We perform the following work:

1. We prepare the surface for assembly work. Eliminate the defects of the floor - chipped, protrusions and cracks.
2. We place the thermal insulation material on the entire surface, preventing excessive energy consumption.
3. We fix the damping tape along the walls of the room, preventing deformation of the floor under temperature expansion.
4. We place the reinforcing mesh on the floor, lay out the pipe with the liquid coolant, avoiding those places where it is not required to heat the floor. The maximum distance from the pipe to the wall should be 10 centimeters.
5. When laying the pipeline system, we leave the pipes with some degree of freedom, ensuring their safety at temperature deformation.
6. Connect the piping system to the heating system using the inlet and outlet manifolds. We carefully fix the joints of the pipes, using couplings and winding.
7. We check the operation of the system of a warm water floor at the maximum power of the water flow, closely monitor possible leaks.
8. With satisfactory test results, we form a cement screed, first rough, and then self-leveling.
9. We lay the absorbent layer between the screed and the finish coat, then mount the finish coat.