How to make the installation of concealed wiring under plaster

Hidden wiring under plaster

When decorating rooms with concrete, foam concrete, brick or gypsum walls with various building mixtures, the concealed wiring is first pulled in furrows-stitrobs that are specially carved and then covered with a layer of moist plaster. Cables and wires that are double insulated are easier to lay in stitches, without using any additional protection. An important drawback of this method is that the wires in the future can not be replaced without resorting to a violation of the integrity of the wall. Electrical wiring, which is made in cable ducts and pipes of materials resistant to burning, does not have such a disadvantage, however this method is much more labor-consuming.

Installation of concealed wiring in the apartment begins with the marking, immediately after the roughing. At the same time, it is noted on the walls( ceilings) the location of future switches, junction boxes( if used), sockets and lines, through which stoning will be carried out. Further, in order to mount the sub-tablets, it is necessary to drill the depressions. Dipsticks are installed in the recess, which is pre-filled in part with a construction mixture that is basically gypsum, flush with the wall surface. The next necessary step that will help to make the hidden wiring under the plaster is shtroblenie for the necessary width and depth of previously marked lines.

Shtroblenie walls for wiring with their own hands

Ideally, the width of the shtroby must match the width of the cable to be laid. Then the cable immediately densely "held" in the stroba, while it does not stick out and fall out. To lay a single flat three-core VVG cable, which has a cross-section of veins up to 4 mm2, usually strokes, with a depth of 0.7-1 cm, are forbidden. It is forbidden to shave the bearing concrete walls. Therefore, in order to conduct such communications, it is necessary to have a sufficient thickness of the layer of plaster under rough work.

To install the sub-wall panels, it is necessary to drill the wall with a perforator, using a special "crown" attachment.

For the drilling of concrete walls it is better to use a puncher with increased capacity, i.e.more than 1000 W, however, without such professional equipment for such purposes, you can also use a conventional household puncher. In this case, you will need to change the instrument one by one. First use the crown. After deepening the crown by 2-3 mm from the surface of the concrete( more usually the perforator used in everyday life is usually not enough), it is replaced by a drill having a diameter of 6 mm.

This drill is drilled several holes all over the groove obtained from using the crown. The distance between these holes should be minimal, completely closing the circle. The depth of drilling with a borer is 2-3 cm. After that, the crown is again installed, which can already go deeper. Thus, the process is repeated until the required depth is reached for the installation of the jar. Then, using a puncher, the concrete is punctured in the center, and a hole is mounted in the resulting hole.

Often the drilling process is complicated by the presence in the concrete at the site of drilling, steel reinforcement. So, it is better to pre-probe the zone, which will be subject to drilling, using a portable metal detector.

If it is planned to carry out wiring in cable channels and pipes later, the next stage will be their installation in already extruded stems, in the direction of the mounted podrozetnikam. Then, cables and wires are laid. In the cable ducts and pipes, these wires and cables are tightened with flexible steel wire. When carrying out electrical wiring without pipes and cable channels, the wires and cables can be fixed directly to the strobes with alabaster( pure gypsum).The ends of the wires that fit to the junkets, fill in them, and the excess is cut to a length of 10 to 15 cm. The walling of the walls under the wiring is complete, now go to the next stage.

Installation of concealed wiring under plaster

Outlets are often mounted under one frame by blocks. This allows you to combine in one block only electrical outlets, as well as TV, telephone, Internet outlets and even switches. This will make it convenient to operate them, save space and win aesthetically. To mount such a block you need special latches, namely, cable channels. Their use makes it possible to combine a group of podzetetnikov as follows.

Widget from SocialMart

Then the received group is installed in already prepared grooves. In this case, the holes should be drilled in one row and almost dense( the distance between the holes should be no more than 1 mm), and the central partitions should be carefully removed. This contributes to the fact that the unit can not be disassembled, but installed entirely. When installing and connecting, as well as after the metal frames of the sockets must touch tight enough.

Frames and covers are installed at the final stage of the finishing works, when the wallpaper is pasted, or the walls are painted. With a quality work done, the frames and the cover of the outlets fit to the wall smoothly, without forming any gaps.

To install the flush-mounted distribution panel, it is necessary to make a groove of a rectangular cavity, of sufficient depth, width and height. In the resulting niche, the shield body is fixed, using a plaster mortar. At this the installation of the concealed wiring is completed, we proceed to the final stage.

Selection and installation of the switchboard

This step is based on the number of groups involved. So, each group has its own automatic device( RCD), to which they are connected. In addition to the output single-pole machine, it is necessary to have a common, as well as an introductory bipolar( single-phase circuit).One pole connects the phase, the other - the zero wire of the input cable.

An example of mounting a switchboard into three groups, with one standby.

Having a common switchboard on the staircase, which includes all meters( electric meters), you can connect to a group of machines, the power of which is allocated specifically for this apartment.

If there is a need for grounding, the grounding hole( which is included in the shield) is connected to the grounding zero conductor from the input supply cable, the so-called three-wire single-phase system. If there is no such wire, but there is a working neutral wire, then it is possible to connect the ground bus to it at the input to the input automaton. A zero common bus is connected to the zero output of the input automaton, which is also included in the shield.

The possibility of disabling the input automaton, contributes to safe work inside the shield, for example, the replacement of output automata, when they fail. Installation of the meter( electric meter) is carried out before the output automaton, and also after the introductory meter. This completes the selection and installation of a common switchboard. Now you know how to make the installation of a hidden electrical wiring under the plaster, make the walls shaking under the wiring with your own hands, and also install and connect the outlet and switch in the right place.

Specially for the site Repair one-bedroom apartment with their own hands.