Floor on the balcony with your own hands - step by step installation and warming instructions

Good afternoon, dear readers of Stroyday.ru. Today I'll tell you how to make a floor on the balcony with your own hands on a sandwich technology. Each step I will accompany the photo with a detailed description, but if you have any questions, then I will be ready to answer them in the comments, so write - do not be shy.

In the cold countries, such as Iceland, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Canada and Finland, great attention is paid to heat. Not for nothing in the post-Soviet space is very popular, the so-called Finnish houses and houses built on Canadian technology of sandwich type. But, if many people have heard about houses and walls from sandwich panels, then there are fewer people about sandwich floors. And after all, they are very popular in Canada and the countries of the Scandinavian Peninsula.

Sandwich floors on the balcony, are becoming popular due to their heat-saving properties, ease of installation and cost, which is much lower than that of any other floors. That's why on our balcony we decided to make and insulate the floor on this technology.

In this article we will teach you how to insulate / insulate the floor on the balcony with your own hands. For convenience, the whole process will be shown step by step.

Required Tools:

To begin with, we need to prepare all the tools and purchase all the necessary materials for work. For this we have prepared for you a list of all the necessary: ​​

1. Electric jig saw.
2. Rotary hammer.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Hammer.
5. Roulette.
6. Dowels.
7. Impact drill.
8. Construction marker or graphite pencil.
9. Spare webs for jigsaw.
10. Spare drills for perforator.
11. Replacement drill bits for drills.
12. Wood screws of different lengths.
13. Acrylic or silicone sealant.
14. Sealant gun.
15. Cement brand Portland-M500 or frost-resistant adhesive for tiles.
16. Foam or mineral wool thickness of two centimeters( the density can be any, but we recommend to take more tightly).
17. Insulation or thermal insulating mat with reflective element.
18. Wooden slats 2x4 cm.

Start layingfloor on the

After all materials and tools have been prepared, we go directly to the mounting and laying a floor.

Any repair and construction work always begins with taking measurements. So we, armed with roulette measure the working area on which we have to work. In our case, a balcony appears in the form of a working area. Its length is one meter, and the width is three meters.

ATTENTION!Companies for the production of floor screeds, in their operating instructions, very often indicate the setting time of the level from three to five hours. But, very often it is far from reality. Based on experience, we recommend, after pouring the floor screed, wait at least twenty-four hours, that is, one day.

After the screed on the floor has solidified and become firm, we move on to creating the formwork. In our case, it will perform the function of a kind of barrier, since in the mounting foam, under the influence of various natural phenomena( rainwater, direct sunlight, wind), cracks and microcracks through which the air can blow out eventually develop.

By the way, if you are not familiar with the technology of floor screed, then we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step material on screeding floors with concrete, a link to the material on our website.

Installation of the timber formwork for the floor

The formwork is assembled from wooden slats. To begin with, the bar is placed in the length of the balcony( we will remind it of three meters) at a distance of four to five centimeters from the balcony frame. Further with the help of a tape measure, we will be able to find out the size of the wooden slat that will be used by us for the construction of the formwork in width.

balcony. Having obtained the required size of the rail, we transfer all measurements to the "wooden" area. For this we use a construction marker or graphite pencil.

Next comes the electric jig saw. To them, we cut off the wooden bar, which we need to length.

After the bar is cut off, we put it on the fixing place. Now the drill comes into operation. With its help, we drill through the holes through the holes with a step of thirty to forty centimeters.

After we have made holes in the bar, its appearance should be something like this.

formwork bar Now, having pushed the wooden strip aside, there must be traces of through holes in the floor, which we made using an impact drill.

Now, insert the dowels into the holes that were made in the wooden rail. Next, we attach a wooden rod with dowels inserted into it in its place.

Now a hammer comes into operation. With its help, we plug the dowels into the floor.

After the wooden lag is attached to the floor on plastic dowels, we use a hammer, we screw them in them. After all the screws are clogged and the bar is fixed in its place, it should get about this kind.

After the width of the bar is fixed, we pass to the bar, which is fixed in length. We strengthen it in the same way as the first bar.

The only difference is the step of fixing the rail. If in width, we reinforced the rail with a step of thirty to forty centimeters, then in length we observe a step of fifty to sixty centimeters. The next bar is also fastened in length, observing a step of seven to eight centimeters. The dowel bracket is fixed. Further, with a distance of 6-7 cm, we attach the next lag using dowels.

After the bars have been fixed, you should get this way.

ATTENTION!When drilling holes in the floor under the dowel, drills are very often broken. Proceeding from this, we strongly recommend having three or four spare drills in reserve.

drills. Floor insulation on the balcony with

foam

The next step, after the length of the lag is laid, is warming. To do this, we cut the foam with equal strips of seven to eight centimeters in length. Cutting foam is best with a conventional construction knife. After the foam is cut, we put it in the distance between the wooden lags. As shown in the photo. When the strips of polystyrene are completely laid, the floor will get this kind( photo below).

The next step is to mount the second layer. For this, using a tape measure, we measure the size of the necessary lag in width.

After we have measured the size of the rod we need, we transfer it to the wooden plane. Next in the course comes the electric jigsaw. With its help we saw off the beam of the size we needed. Now it's time to screwdriver. We try the bar and the places for fixing the screws. By the way, for fixing we use wood screws with a size of 3.5x35mm.

Now attach the lag to the self-tapping screws.

Fastened with a screwdriver and lug self-cutters, this looks like this.

The next rake, which we will fasten in length, is part of the formwork. It must be fixed a little "overlap", that is, with a ledge closer to the balcony frame. It is attached to self-tapping screws.

After we secured the second layer of the formwork, we move on to the stage of the formwork pouring. To do this, we prepare a solution of frost-resistant adhesive for tiles or cement of Portland-M500 grade. When the solution is ready, we put it with a spatula into the inner part of the formwork. The mortar is applied to the inner part, along the entire perimeter of the formwork.

When the entire interior of the formwork is completely filled, we proceed to the step of mounting the rails in width.

The logs are screwed with screws and screwdrivers. Screws screwed on the method of "board in the board"( as shown in the photo).In the same way, we mount all the other lags that we lay in width. In this case, it is important to comply with the step with a distance of fifteen centimeters between the rails.

When the next layer of racks was mounted, we pass to the strait of all the remaining slots. We fill the gap with a solution of frost-resistant tile adhesives. After all the cracks have been processed and sealed, we leave the solution to freeze. Usually it takes one day. After twenty-four hours the solution should completely solidify and solidify. At the same time, the formwork should acquire a look like in a photograph.

We check the formwork for strength. To do this, it is enough to try it with your fingers and if everything is dry and firm - it means everything is in order and you can safely move on to the next step.

Thermal insulation of the concrete floor on the balcony with a second layer of foam

The sequence of operations is as follows:

1. Cut the foam into parts 15 cm wide.
2. The cut foam is placed in the distance between the wooden strips.
3. We fill the cracks in the floor with small pieces of polystyrene to form a surface without gaps and cracks.

Stacking of the insulation

WARNING!We heat the insulation with the reflecting surface upwards.

1. Heater, should go to the walls and the balcony frame approximately three to four centimeters.
2. We add additional heat insulation material and roll it back into a roll.
3. Using a construction knife, cut off the required insulation.
4. Straighten and smooth the heater, forming a smooth surface.

Over the heater with a screen, we put the lag and try it on in length. After the lag is laid out, we fix it on the screws. For this we use a screwdriver.

Then the laying process is repeated for the second time - this is done to maximize the floor insulation on the balcony. The technology of lag mounting is identical, namely:

1. We lay the lag, fixing it with screws.
2. Between the lag is analogous to the steps that have already been done above lay a layer of foam.
3. On top of the foam layer, we lay the chipboard by fixing it with screws to the bar formwork.

We sew the floor on the balcony with the clapboard

. In our example, the floor will be not clad with lining, but with special slats,this layer will not be finished yet. But if you want to finish the floor at this step, it will also be a very warm construction, but we continue on.

So the technology of mounting wooden rails:

1. Reiki is fastened with screws and screwdrivers tightly to each other.
2. In order for the floor to be stable "not playing" it is recommended to screw the screws with indentations of 5-7 cm from each other.

Also, the photo shows that our balcony frame is reinforced with a connector, which in turn gives a balcony frame of rigidity. The photo also shows that the amplifier performs a little. I recall, we need to ensure that all the slats fit closely to the walls and to the balcony frame. To do this, we need to cut a notch in a wooden rod using a jigsaw.

1. Now, take a pencil or marker and transfer the size of the lug of the frame amplifier to a wooden rail.
2. With the help of a jig saw, we cut out a notch of the size we need.
3. After we "worked" the electric jig saw, we get this result.
4. Now we try on the bar. As we see, she perfectly "fell" to its place.

ATTENTION!When laying the floor, do not forget to use the level. It should be all smooth.

Now, we move on to laying the second reinforcing layer. For this, using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we fasten the bar lengthwise in a tight one to one.

After the second reinforcing layer is laid, you should see here a picture like this.

Laying the finishing coat( plywood sheets of fiberboard) on the reinforcing layer

After we have completed the installation of the third reinforcing layer, we already have a picture of our future floor.

1. Now we transfer all our measurements to the sheet of fiberboard.
2. Fiberboard mode by contours using a construction knife.
3. After we cut the fiberboard, try it on.
4. The fiberboard should even flush in the corners.

1. After fitting, we remove the fiberboard and using a pistol, we "fill in" the sealant in the slot.
2. After processing all the slots with a sealant, you should get something like this.

sealant. ATTENTION!Sealant should be put a thin layer. Also, it should not perform, otherwise the fiberboard will not tightly adhere to the floor. If suddenly the sealant has fallen too thick, it does not matter, it can easily be removed with a damp cloth or napkin.

Well, now when, all the cracks we "blew out" with the help of a sealant, we are moving to the final stage - laying the fiberboard.

1. After the fiberboard is bedded, it must be pressed properly to the floor. This is done so that all excess silicone will come out.
2. Now screw the fiberboard with a screwdriver and wood screws in size 3,5x25mm.
3. Screws screws in the shape of a "Christmas tree" with a step distance in all directions of forty centimeters.

Well that's all. All works on installation of a warm floor on the balcony of a multi-storey building are completed. In this article, we examined a step-by-step instruction on the installation of a floor on a balcony with our own hands using the "sandwich" technology. Successful repair to you!