Facing the house of sip panels with ceramic bricks

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How to give your sip-panel house a reliable, respectable appearance through brickwork, increasing the heat and sound insulation qualities, and at the same time to extend the operational life of the building in a cold and humid climate.

Facing the house of sip panels with ceramic bricks

Cladding of a house made of sip panels with ceramic bricks

The article is not designed for quick "designer" solutions for the wall covering of with siding or ready-made decorative panels mimicking brickwork. These malignant materials only poison everything around, restrict the influx of air, form a fungus, and also contribute to the decay of any wooden structures and chopped walls. Of course, for an ideal finishing, the mason's skills will be required, so it's better to turn to specialists, but the theoretical understanding of the process will help you to understand the choice of construction material and will provide an opportunity to more accurately identify, consider the professionalism of the performers themselves.

Begin finishing the house with bricks

Begin finishing the house with bricks

We pay special attention to the foundation. If there was no provision in advance for finishing the brick foundation, then reinforce the existing foundation, connecting it with metal pins with a hypothetical foundation, the future. We dig grillage , we build a timbering, we weld the frame to the pins and fill it with concrete. Such embossed foundation must be kept for a couple of years for general shrinkage with the basis of the previous design.

Ribbon foundation

We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for erecting a band foundation on our portal. In addition, if you want to expand your knowledge of the foundation, then read the materials in the foundation section.

The belt foundation along the perimeter of the outer walls must be of high quality, well-established, ideally flat on the horizon. However, the errors of the zero mark on lighthouses( corners) are allowed not more than 1 centimeter. The first row can always be diluted with a mortar, and even. It is also important to sustain the size( length, width) of the foundation when arranging the formwork. In order not to trim the brick when laying afterwards, you need to calculate the size so that from the corner to the corner there are whole bricks.

We cover the walls of the house with ceramic bricks

We cover the walls of the house with ceramic bricks

Calculating the necessary amount of bricks for the skin of the house

Suppose that one of the walls of your house is 10 meters:
1 / 0.25 = 4 bricks in a meter x 10 = 40 bricks in a row x 0.01( vertical seam)= 0.4, then the length of the foundation for this side should be at least 10.4 meters.

The width of the foundation is calculated taking into account the gap between the wall and the inner edge of the brick for air circulation, and also taking into account the probable error in the sheer surface of the walls. Those. The width of the brick is 12.5 cm. + 5 cm. For uniform shrinkage, let's take another 10 centimeters with a margin.

It is desirable to buy bricks at once with one batch, paying attention to the single release date of each packed pallet, as the shade of bricks can vary and the geometric shapes of bricks in different lots are not always ideal. To ensure that the seams do not "walk", especially in the visibility zone, try to follow this rule. Closer to the roof can be used with small defects and with minor chipped bricks, which can be very much, due to subsidiary work or due to inaccurate transportation.

Required materials and tools

The following building materials and tools will be required for the cladding of the house from the sip panels with ceramic bricks:

  1. The surface of an even and sustained foundation in two layers of is waterproofed with ruberoid. Next, accurately lay out the perimeter bricks dry, for the accuracy of vertical seams using a metal rod or a wooden template 1 cm thick. If everything is taken into account, the sides converge into a single whole without damaging the seams, we prepare the cement-sand mortar.
  2. Sand is sieved and kneaded with cement at a rate of 1: 3.Add the plasticizer.
  3. We start the corners. We use the level and plumb line. Each horizontal joint is measured with a tape measure. We try to make the seam centimeter. Taking into account the height of the bastard brick of 10 cm, we finally get what will contribute to convenience, accuracy and symmetry at opposite angles.
  4. If the height of the sill or roof does not correspond to the height of tens, then adjust the seam thickness by 1-2 mm, increasing or decreasing the seam, respectively. This is important to take into account when laying lighthouse angles, at the stage of breaking the first row.
  5. Between the corners set the intermediate beacon, if necessary two, so that the lace does not sag. After two or three rows, each seam is sealed with a commercially available bend or a bent metal toolbar with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Dry with a clean rag wipe every brick.
  6. On the second-third row, approximately one meter apart, each vertical seam is not filled with mortar.these centimeter slots will serve as blows, for circulation in the gap between the masonry and the sip-panel wall of the air.
  7. A small note on the of the ( white spots) on the brick.
  8. The highs on the brick appear, usually in the off-season. The most prone to are dark ceramic bricks. This is due to the fact that the seaming is done by fresh masonry. To avoid this, a brick is placed on the solution under a metal oblong rod of square cross section about a centimeter in diameter. The edges of the brick do not interact with the solution, do not get dirty, all the seams seem ideal, even. When the rod is moved further, an empty seam 1 cm deep remains on the next verst, under the brick or from the end of the brick. A big mistake with the hollow is to be content with this. When the masonry in the month is padlocked with , it will grasp, give all the moisture under the influence of the sun, each padded will need to be filled in and re-expanded. And this is a double work, a time-consuming process. In addition, the seams are still not ideal because of the geometric defects of domestic bricks. So it is better to fill the seam immediately and to expand the fresh masonry, and when appears vyshirat their special chemical compounds.
    A sample of brick lining of house doors from SIP panels

    Sample brick lining of house doors from SIP panels

  9. After making 5 rows around the perimeter, we connect the masonry to the wooden wall using a reinforcing mesh with 5 by 5 cm cells. These nets sell two types: 0.38 by 2 meters and 0.5 by 2 meters. For ease of mounting, we cut the grid with a bulgarian or special bolt cutters into 2 equal parts along and across. Bend at an angle of 90 gr., one part is placed on the masonry, the other is screwed to the wall. To do this, we use pieces of cut galvanized tape with holes. Two holes on the piece will be enough. Especially carefully we make fastening on door and window openings for rigidity.
  10. After laying the masonry at a height of one and a half meters, we install the tubular scaffolds on a carefully leveled base. Standard stands of these forests are meter and two meters. If possible, it is better to choose the components of the meter racks. If there is no maneuver to choose and you got two meters on the stand of the scaffold, then at a height of 1-1.5 meters we screw across the solid board or rectangular profile pipe on the self-tapping screw with a metal drill.
    Covering the corners of the house from the SIP panels with bricks

    Covering the corners of the house from SIP panels with bricks

  11. In order not to put the woods along the entire perimeter we select any wall and continue to work on it until the roof slope, the ridge. Each corner is neatly shrouding in both directions.
  12. For the stability of the forest, for insurance, if the height of your house is considerable, under each rack opposite, on top of the lined brick row, screw the screw with the ring to the vertical beam hidden behind the wall panel, pre-drilled the panel and the bar with a drill. The diameter of the screw is equal to the thickness of the seam, not more than a centimeter. We pull the stand and the ring with wire. At dismantling of a design a screw from a laying we twist, a hole cover with a solution.
  13. Window and door openings are covered with a metal corner, painted to prevent rust and the appearance of brown spots on the brick with any oil paint. If the opening is wide, stained glass, then we put vertically the support in the middle. We fix. In order to avoid the subsequent deflection through the row of masonry, reinforce the corner grid along the entire opening with a reserve screwed to the wooden panel.
    The appearance of the house is lined with a half facing brick

    Exterior of the house lined with half facing brick

  14. Fronton we perform by running with a penalty under the skate leveling the vertical plane according to the level.
  15. We dismantle scaffolding in passing wiping, cleaning where a stained facing is required. We process with a hydrophobizing compound to avoid destruction.
  16. After a few days on the stained glass, we remove the support.
  17. In the same manner, finish the walls remaining.
  1. brick( from the calculation of 40 bricks per 1 sq. Meter);
  2. concrete mixer;
  3. quarry sand;
  4. cement;
  5. spring-loaded the base of an old bed with 1-by-1-cm cells for sifting sand;
  6. shovel;
  7. galvanized pails for water and mortar;
  8. dishwashing gel instead of the store plasticizer( add a few drops in a bucket of water, stir before pouring into a concrete mixer);
  9. antiseptic for wood;
  10. metal corners for overlapping door and window openings;
  11. oil paint for waterproofing corners;
  12. reinforcing mesh( with 5 by 5 cm cells);
  13. galvanized punched tape with holes for fixing the mesh to the wooden wall;
  14. self-tapping screws, dowels, nails;
  15. screws with ring( 10 mm.) For fastening to the wall of scaffolding through the seam;
  16. hardened wire for tightening scaffolding to screws with a ring;
  17. tubular prefabricated scaffolding;
  18. thick boards for scaffolds ;
  19. roll of roofing felt;
  20. screwdriver ;
  21. Bulgarian with discs for stone and metal;
  22. wood drill( 8 mm.) For screw holes with ring;
  23. trowel( mason's trowel);
  24. hammer-kirochka;
  25. plumb line;
  26. building level;
  27. cord-pier;
  28. measuring tape;
  29. extension;
  30. a piece of clean rags for wiping masonry.

Work execution technology

Sheathing of the house is complete

Finishing of the house completed

Comfortable living!

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