The lining of concrete stairs seems like a simple matter only at first glance. This process has many nuances: from the choice of materials to the features of surface preparation and installation of balusters. We will try to highlight all these points in the article.
Concrete stairs are very durable. They are not afraid of fire and moisture. But they have a serious drawback - an aesthetic appearance. And walking barefoot on concrete is a dubious pleasure. These shortcomings can be eliminated by lining the concrete with a tree.
How to make a concrete staircase. Example 
Finishing the ladder with wood. Example 
Cladding with a concrete staircase. Example 
Finishing a concrete ladder. Example 
Have not yet read the article how to make a ladder to the second floor?
We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step technology on how to make stairs to the second floor with your own hands - a link to the material. In addition, we recommend reading the material about the spiral staircase.
Making measurements - 1 Making measurements
- 1 Making measurements
- 2 Selecting steps
- 3 Choosing the remaining materials
- 4 Selecting tools
- 5 Preparing for
- 6 Installing the
- 7 steps Setting up the
- 8 pillars Installing the
- 9 balusters Setting the
- 10 railing Setting and polishing the
- 1 Making measurements
- 2 Selecting steps
- 3 Choosing the remaining materials
- 4 Selecting tools
- 5 Preparing for
- 6 Installing the
- 7 steps Setting up the
- 8 pillars Installing the
- 9 balusters Setting the
- 10 railing Setting and polishing the
steps First you need to determine the dimensions of the steps, risers andhandrail stairs. Balusters and pillars almost always have a standard size. It is necessary to take a tape measure and measure each step( length, width and height).The largest size and ordered stages. If steps with a tooth are necessary, it is necessary not to forget it to consider.
The difference between steps in height should be no more than 10 mm, otherwise you will have to bear the additional costs for their adjustment.
Tip! If it is not possible to measure the steps correctly, or for any reason it is difficult to do, you can simply use the services of the company, which will be ordered stairs. In her staff there is certainly a specialist who will come and carry out all the necessary measurements.
Description of cladding details. Illustration
Selecting the steps
When selecting, you must take into account the two main criteria: the thickness and material of the steps.
The most common stages are:
- 22 mm( such steps are cheap, but it is necessary to spend additional time for their preparation);
- 35 mm( the best option for price and labor for facing);
- 45 and 55 mm( they cost more, but do not require additional leveling, usually they are lined with stairs on a steel frame).
It is also very important to choose the right wood for the steps.
The optimum size of the steps 
Comfortable climb Optimal choice - hardwoods.
| Wood | Description |
|---|---|
 Oak | This wood is finished stairs almost the most. It is durable, durable and is cheap enough. |
 Ash | Beautiful solid wood with a pleasant surface pattern. It is even cheaper than an oak tree. |
 Beech | Durable wood with a homogeneous structure, also perfect for stairs. |
Not suitable for finishing stairs, any wood with a soft structure: linden, pine. No matter how beautiful these breeds looked, their purchase will be throwing money away, since they will not last long.
Tip! After pouring a concrete staircase must stand for a couple of months. And only then you can go to the lining of the steps with a tree. If you do this before, the steps may crack because of the moisture left in the concrete.
Choose the remaining materials
For the lining of the stairs with wooden steps the following materials will be needed( see table).
| Materials for facing the concrete staircase | Description | Illustration |
|---|---|---|
| Varnish | First of all, it must be wear-resistant. If there is a desire to preserve the original color of the tree, the varnish must be transparent. In no case should you choose a varnish for outdoor works, otherwise its smell will not disappear for a very long time from home. |  Tikkurila Unica Super |
| Adhesive for gluing the steps of | Any two-component glue that does not contain water can be used. In the works depicted in the photo, the glue "Khomakol" was used. |  Homakoll |
| Adhesive for leveling | High glue "Tim 35" or "Ceresit CM 11" adhesive can be used, both mixtures have high adhesion, they are also easy to use. In the photos depicted in the picture, the Tim 35 is used, as it is more elastic and its cost is lower than that of the Ceresit CM 11. |  Tim 35 |
Selecting the tools
For the work you will need:
- level;
- drill;
- mixer;
- solution container( bucket);
- brush for primer;
- level;
- spatula;
- trowel;
- notched V-shaped spatula;
- screwdriver;
- saw for metal( for cutting balusters);
- electric jigsaw;
- pliers( for winding studs);
- milling cutter.
Tip! In extreme cases, you can do without a router, work on making cutters under the steps can also be ordered from the manufacturer.
Photo 1.
cutter Preparatory work
Before the preparatory work, it is necessary to clean the steps of debris and dirt with a broom or brush. Next, we apply CT-17 primer to the surface.
Primer Ceresit CT-17
Tip: for the sake of economy, PVA glue can be used. It is diluted with water in a ratio of 1: 5.
When the steps dry out from the ground, go directly to the surface leveling.
We must not forget that the vertical part of all steps should be the same size. In the works described in the article, the beacons were placed on the horizontal plane, and the steppe was used as the second beacon, since the height of all the risers was approximately the same. Next, glue is mixed( Tim-35) and applied between beacons, and then pulled together with a spatula. After drying, the aluminum beacon should be removed.
Photo 2. Application of adhesive
Laying of steps
Steps, risers, railings, poles, balusters should be sanded with a "nulevka" and use a soft brush to varnish the surface of the tree. Cover should be in the room, because in the street on the surface of the material can stick to dust and dirt.
After completely drying again, grind and coat the second time. The third layer of varnish is applied when all the details of the structure of the ladder are set in their places. These works must be done in the last place.
Example of application of wood varnish
It is necessary in advance to twist all the steps with risers, that is, the horizontal part of the first stage and the steps of the second stage.
To start the gluing of the steps, all tools should be prepared on the leveled surface, since the work with glue must be performed quickly on the surface of the whole march. Sticking the steps is done from the bottom up.
Photo 3. Installation of the
riser When all the preparatory work is finished, the steps are laid. Apply the glue "Khomakol" to the surface of the concrete march, the step of the first step is placed and the twisted stage is piled with the riser on the glue. In this case, it is necessary that the construction of the riser and step enter the groove with the first riser.
Photo 4. Access
Photo 5. Process of facing
With palm or rubber hammer, we tap the stage, for better fixation with glue, after blowing the riser foam with foam. The first step is to be propped up with something heavy, so that during the process of laying the next steps, he does not move.
Photo 6. Cladding of steps
In the same way, all subsequent steps and risers are rolled together. After the first march is laid and all the cracks between the vertical part of the stage and the riser are blown out with the construction foam, it takes a while to fully dry.
The following marches repeat exactly the above steps.
Photo 7. Finished steps
Installation of pillars
The first pillar is installed not on the step, but on the platform, the second - on the last step. Measure the same distance from the edge of the steps( along the length), taking into account the future rails, and the width of the step in the middle of the step is marked with a pencil.
Photo 8. Pillars. The first is installed on the
site. The hole in the pole is drilled( the hole must have a diameter of 14 mm and 80-90 mm in depth) in the marked area of the step, a hole with a diameter of 12 mm and a depth of 80 mm is drilled. The stud itself is standard and has a thread of m-6.The stud is screwed into the step. The varnish on the step, around the hairpin is peeled off with "nulevka" sandpaper, for better adhesion of glue and wood.
Next, glue is poured onto the stud and a pole is put on it. The glue that has flowed out of the border of the column is removed using a damp cloth or sponge.
At the top of the pillar are drilled holes for the installation of rails, here the most important thing is to mark the holes for the dowels symmetrically to each other.
Installation of balusters
They are fastened as well as poles, first steps are marked in the center, then indents are made from the edge. The marked areas should be drilled with a drill( 12 mm drill).Before drilling holes in the steps, you need to make sure that the markings are made correctly.
Photo 9.
markings The holes for the balusters must be level with the previously drilled holes for the posts. Before the balusters are planted on the glue, it is necessary to punch a mark on the entire row with the help of a thread or a punch. It turns out the so-called "bevel", on which the railings will be installed afterwards, After the balusters are marked, the excess is trimmed carefully and they are mounted just like the posts.
Installation of the
handrail The handrails are fastened to the posts and the lines on the bottom and top edges are marked with a pencil, depending on the angle at which the handrail will be fixed to the poles. Excess from the marked area is cut with a metal saw or a jigsaw.
The upper sections of the balusters( bases) are smeared with glue and railings are mounted on them. They are fixed with dowels in the previously drilled holes in the poles.
The wooden slats( sub -periton) are cut to size between the tops of the balusters( bases) and are assembled using PVA glue.
Tip! According to the building standards, the gap between the balusters and the staircase should not be less than 7.5 mm. The optimal distance is about 15 mm.
Photo 10. Installation of a handrail
Photo 11. Installation work
Photo 12. Works on installation of balusters and railings
Varnishing and grinding of stages
This is the last stage of work. He is no less important than everyone else. After all, it is after varnishing and polishing that the steps get a presentable look. If there is a desire to give the tree a certain color, after finishing the work, you can apply stain on the steps.
