The gate of corrugated board - a simple technology independent production of designs
Table of contents
1 Hinged gate type
- 1.1 Design works
- 1.2 The necessary materials and tools
- 1.3 Mounting pillars
- 1.4 Manufacturing of the carcass flaps
- 1.5 Installing shutters
2 Sliding gates
- 2.1 Planning and calculation
- 2.2 Materials and tools for the job
- 2.3 The construction of the base
- 2.4 frame welding
- 2.5 installation of doors
- 3 Output
If you do not know how to make the gate of corrugated board with your hands, and you think that it is difficult, then this article will convince you otherwise. In it, I explain in detail about the two versions of designs that anyone can collect if you want. Choose a suitable solution you design and assemble without assistance.
In the photo: the gates are well combined with any fence
Sliding doors - a more sophisticated version of the design, but it is possible to implement your own hands
Hinged gate type
This is the easiest option, which can be. For its implementation does not need to be an expert builder. All very simple and clear, if guided by the recommendations in this chapter and observe accuracy.
The design of swing gates simple and reliable
First of all it is necessary to conduct preparatory actions, so that you know how much of a particular material need. It is also necessary to be defined with all the nuances of design and dimensions.
The process includes the following steps:
Here is an example of the detailed circuit construction of doors and gates
- You must decide which gate you will. This can be a separate system, or a variant, combined with a wicket (shown above is the solution). The design with the wicket a bit more complicated, but more practical and more convenient, so I suggest you use it;
- Decide on the size of the flaps. No need to make them very wide, since it increases the load on the bearings. The most practical solution - sash 2 meters, in the end it turns out convenient for travel and design is not very massive car;
You can make a sash and 1.5 meters, if the yard will enter only passenger transport
- Make a sketch of the gate. In the drawing, you need to reflect the size of the flaps and their height. Drawn frame, which is desirable to strengthen the bridges and highlights all important nuances (of lugs to latch under the locking on the gate). Having at hand a vivid image, you easily will calculate the materials and will accurately represent the final result;
- Consider construct pillars. These can be of brick supports to which the fixed metal elements and bars made of profiled tube. The second option is easier, and the price is much lower, so we will look at is his. The minimum size of 80x80 mm legs, but I advise you to take 100x100 mm, not to worry about the reliability;
Choose a tube with a wall thickness of at least 5 mm, in embodiments 3 or 4 mm are not very reliable
- Perform calculations materials. Having on hand drawing, to make it easy. Below I will discuss what materials where they are going, so before the calculations refer to the list of chapters below.
The necessary materials and tools
We will understand what materials are needed in order to gather swing gates. For simplicity, information presented in the table.
Profiled - durable material, perfect for gate
|Material||Recommendations for choosing a|
|Decking||It is best to use embodiments C8 to C10, in which the wave height is 8 mm and 10 mm respectively. The height of the sheets is determined by the height of the gate, ordered them better in the right amount, so as not to cut yourself. As for color, then it is selected under the fence and buildings on the site|
|Tube for pole||Earlier, I wrote that it is better to use a variant of 100x100 mm. But it is possible to use a smaller cross section and, if the wall thickness is not less than 5 mm. pole length should be 120 cm more of their height above the ground, in order to reliably support concreted in the ground|
|Material for woodwork||It is best used for the frame corner 70x70 mm, but can be applied to the shaped tube 60x40 mm. You can make a frame out of the corner and ribs of proftruby. No special requirements, as long as the frame got tough. Quantity considered in linear meters in drawing|
|Accessories||special hinges are used to secure the gate. May also need bolts, lugs and clamps, it all depends on your ideas|
|Materials for filling posts||Need cement, sand and filler. It can be as rubble and stones, chunks of concrete or brick chips|
To improve the performance of the loop can be a ball bearing or
Now let's deal with the tool.
To cope with the work, you need a set of tools:
- Welding machine - the most important piece of equipment. If you are told that you can make a gate with his hands without welding, it is not necessary to believe such claims. It is much easier to take a device rented or draw by 1-2 hours welder than collecting structure whose reliability nobody can guarantee;
Modern devices are compact and work from home online
- Metal cutting is performed using grinders. It is an indispensable tool for such work. Also, do not forget to buy some cut-off wheels of the desired diameter and a wiper drive;
- For measurements and markings need tape and a pencil or pen. Control of all corner joints produced using corner. A builder's level will help to put the design perfectly straight;
Without measuring tool does not do
- If the trapezoidal sheet is fastened to the studs, then you need a drill and a corresponding diameter of the drill. When attaching using roofing screws can not do without the screwdriver with a special nozzle.
Here is a diagram of correct concrete pillars at the gate
Proper installation of the supporting pillars - a guarantee of the reliability of your gate.
Therefore, carefully follow the recommendations listed below:
- The first thing to determine the location of the gate. Next is the location of the poles marking. For convenience it is better to pull the cord in order to determine the exact position of each of the elements;
- The depth of the hole should be about half a meter. With respect to its width, it is usually doing about 30-40 centimeters. You can dig spade and special drill, if there is one at your fingertips. Remember one simple thing: the wider the hole, the greater the flow of the solution, but the more reliable fastening of supports;
I usually make the size of the pit 40x40 cm, and work comfortably, and post concreted very reliable
To ensure the best reliability you can pour the foundation for all travel. For this digging a trench width 20 and depth 30 cm. It is laid reinforcement for strength of 10-12 mm.
- On the bottom of the hole is filled with gravel or theft of 20-30 cm thick gravel. Material thoroughly compacted. Put the column and checked the height of its location, if needed, you can even pour the rubble. Further, the space around the column is filled with bricks, concrete stones and pieces of filler allows to reduce the times of the solution flow;
- For the best fixing bars can be in their underground parts to weld multiple items. These may be pieces or corner fittings, located in a chaotic manner. These spacers allow to fix support maximum reliability. To make it clear, here's a photo of this option;
Several spacers in the underground part of the concrete will allow a much better fix the pole
- preparing a solution of. If you have a pit filled with filler, then make a liquid formulation, it fills all the voids, sealing all the stones and bricks in the pit, creating a monolithic block. If the filler is not present, make a solution of the rate of 1 part cement to 3 parts sand and 5 parts gravel. The density can be increased, since you will still be filling the hole completely;
- When concreting and its lintel level should be lower than that of the pillars. So you can get easy entry without elevation under the gate. Put down the board, and you fill up the design as it is necessary, in the photo below shows this variant.
concrete level by passing to be lower than that of the pillars, so as not to be exalted
After pouring the concrete need to be cured. The pillars are left for 5-7 days, so that the solution could well grab.
Manufacturing of the carcass flaps
We will understand how to make the gate leaves, or rather their frame:
- Primarily in the drawing for the construction elements are cut. If the area is used, the compounds need to be cut at an angle of 45 degrees, a profiled pipe can be joined by overlapping and straight ends;
- Preparing a place in the performance of work. Need a flat area under the metal parts can enclose bars or bar. It is important that you have combined all of the elements in the same plane. The elements of the outer frame are formed so that they are connected, then the corners are checked using a polygon, as well as measured diagonally, if they are the same, so you can continue work;
Angles check a square, diagonally measured with a tape measure
- Produced sealing elements. It is important to work to see to it that the parts are not moved, so it's best to assistant was holding structure. Seams boil very carefully to the connection has been resistant to stress;
Welding should be qualitative
- All welds are stripped grinder. This allows us to give a more accurate view of connections and helps to find defects in the connections when they are available. If necessary, the problem areas were welded again;
After cleaning we get an accurate connection
Check whether the frames fit the opening. Just put them between the posts shall be arranged with gaps between the elements is about 2 cm. If all is well, you can continue to work.
Do not forget to check whether the flaps fit into the opening
- At least welded stiffeners. Their location may be different, but most often welded into one diagonal and one horizontal jumper. The angles for strength can be further welded plate.
The jumpers are cut precisely on the frame, then they are very easy to cook
When installing the gate should be guided by a simple circuit, which is presented below:
The process is simple to understand, if you break it down into small pieces
- In order to set the gate in the desired position, put them under a board of desired length. To it was located on the level, bricks or pieces of underlay boards of a certain thickness. On the prepared substrate placed the sash so that they do not fall, tie them to stakes with rope;
That's how you can set the blade to the desired position
After welding the elements are always slightly sags, so under the middle flaps in place of their connection is enclosed piece of board thickness of 2 centimeters.
By the middle is enclosed additional spacer
- The upper part is also fixed. For this taken tube of suitable length and becomes attached to the posts, being located on the upper edge of the gate. After this construction will be very stable;
Top design is also attached
- Is marked the location of the loops. If the surfaces are painted, the attachment point is necessary to clean the surface to open the metal. Loop to grab a pole and gates in several places, so that the leaf stayed on the design. It is important to monitor the position of the veil, so as not to weld them wrong;
- Checking if the opening of the gate. If all goes well, it is possible to carry out the final welding of the loop. It is important to fasten elements such as reliable as possible;
Welding hinges only after checking the gate opening
Here is the result of work
- Welded eyelets and other elements, and the frame is painted. It is best to use a part of "3 in 1", combining the ground, paint and anti-corrosion compound. When painting, pay special attention to the joints and hard to reach areas. For best effect coating is produced in at least two layers;
Staining protects the metal from corrosion
- fastened profiled. To this sheet is tried to surface cutouts therein made for hinges, work can be performed by conventional metal scissors if necessary. The connection is performed or rivets desired color (then under these drilled holes) or roofing screws (then nothing to fix it is necessary). Fix sheet should be through one wave.
Cutouts made on the fact that the framework is already
The gate of corrugated look very carefully
Make a sliding door made of corrugated board with their own hands a lot harder than the swing. But if you are willing to understand the process, you will be able to cope with this design option. Manufacturing technology is different from the above-described embodiment, so please read the entire section carefully.
This option is much more convenient, but make it more difficult
Planning and calculation
If you make mistakes at this stage, the design can be broken, so you need to consider all the facts in order to select the optimal settings.
The following actions are performed during the operation:
This diagram shows the construction of which comprises
- It is determined by the height and width of the structure. As for the height, it is the same as that of the fence. The width is measured by the distance from the pole to the pole on the inner side of the opening;
- Actual dimensions are calculated as follows: opening width multiplied by 1.5 and added to 200 mm. We deal with parameters: design consists of a fabric, which should cover the junction with poles (taken at 100 mm on each side) and a counterweight, which is half the length opening. That is, a width of 3 meters calculation is as follows: 3x1.5 + 0.2 = 4.7 meters;
Determine which way will leave the gates, there should be enough space
- Calculates the actual height of the door leaf. It is less common, since it is necessary to take away the height of the carriage and the pipe thickness. If used proftruba 60 mm width and 130 mm in height carriage, then subtracted from the overall height of 190 mm. The height of the carriage can be found in the manual that comes with accessories for gates;
- It is a construction of the. Everything is simple: on the basis of all the data that we have calculated previously created sketch. It clearly spells out all sizes, and is calculated as the length of the frame elements and the length of jumpers.
What more will the scheme, the easier it will get you work and the more accurately you calculate the necessary amount of material.
Detail drawing greatly simplifies
Materials and tools for the job
First, consider what materials are needed:
- Steel sheet, it is better to choose options of at least 0.5 mm thick. Color is selected on the basis of the environment, it must be combined with a fence. The height of the corrugated sheet should be as you need useful width is always the same and is 1150 mm, on this basis, is easy to calculate the amount;
- For framework used pipe profile. Outdoor construction elements made of 60x30 mm cross section, and is applied for webs embodiment 40h20 mm. This allows you to make the frame strong, but at the same time easy to use options for large cross-section is not necessary because of the large weight;
To work well enough embodiment with wall thickness of half a millimeter
- For fixing the profiled sheet can be used for roofing screws or rivets. If you want to fix the structure to the posts of brick, it will be necessary anchor bolts 10h80 mm;
Anchor bolts are needed for fixing to brick and concrete support
- Protection for the carcass purchase paint and primer or composition of the "3 in 1";
- To construct the base, needed channel 200 mm wide and 12 mm thick reinforcement. Also needed grout;
- Finally, we can not do without mounting kit for sliding gates. It includes a guide, the lower carriage, the upper rollers and the end separators, as well as a stub. Usually, all it sold in a set, so the problems with the acquisition will not occur. The only thing to fate - the weight of the gate, it was under him and a particular set of selected.
Here is the kit for sliding gates
As for the tool is used the same set, as in the case above. So once again enumerate the list does not make sense.
The construction of the base
Base dimensions should not be less than indicated in the figure
The strength of the foundation is very important for sliding structures, so in any case, do not break the following recommendations:
- Welded construction of channel and fittings. We need sill piece 200 mm in length and half the distance between the pillars. To it in the lower part are welded pillar reinforcement 12 mm length 170 cm. The structure may be 2 or 3 depending on the support of its width, welded frame, its configuration is shown below;
Here is the skeleton under the base
- Under cooked you design for the location of the line digging pit. The trench should have the same configuration as the preform reinforcing your. The depth should be at least 10 cm longer;
- Poured sand cushion. The sand layer should be about 10 cm, the surface is thoroughly compacted;
- put the frame. It is important to pull the cord in order to define the location of the plane of the sill. Also, the position of the design is checked using a spirit level, it is important to align the basis of perfectly straight before proceeding;
The frame is exposed at the desired level
- If you plan to drive is to stretch the wire design. They are laid in the ground and are displayed in the right place, so you do not have to peck the concrete;
- grout. If the platform is above ground level, the constructed formwork. The upper part of the foundation must be positioned flush with the plane of the sill. After casting, the design should stand for at least a week for curing.
The substrate must be cured before proceeding
To design worked as intended, it must be perfectly flat.
Workflow for weld looks like this:
- Elements are cut from the outer frame pipe 60x30. Further, they are decomposed on the flat surface or on a specially prepared substrate. It is important that all parts lying on a flat plane, and a well-docked. The diagram below shows how to join all of the elements are checked and changes its diagonal corners to make sure that no distortions in the structure;
That's how the elements of the outer frame dock
- Frame grab on the compounds. Then cross-checked angles and diagonals, if all goes well, the seams are fully boil;
The design geometry is welded after rechecking
- Cut and fold the elements of the inner frame tube 40h20. This part of the design initially welded separately and then put into the outer frame and grab points every 40 cm. The result is a rigid structure.
The inner frame is made with stiffening ribs
installation of doors
Sliding doors made of profiled sheet with his hands placed in the following order:
- Mounted roller bearings. Everything is simple: the lower plate is welded to the channel, it is important to expose the elements evenly and well cooked connection, that it is not cracked under the load;
The supports are welded to the bottom of our
- Upper rollers understand, brackets are fastened to the posts. They need to be placed at a certain height, which is calculated according to the drawing. Elements should be placed flush with the post and not to act in the opening;
Brackets are located as shown in Figure
- By the bottom of the gate is welded rail. Everything is simple, the main thing to place it smoothly and securely fasten. If necessary, fixed rack, it is used in automated systems. Especially its attachment clearly specified in the instructions, which always comes, so no problem;
The guide must be welded perfectly straight
- On the surface of the steel sheet is attached. To work, you can use rivets or roofing screws. Step mounting location - in 1 wave. To improve the appearance of the perimeter of the construction area can be secured from the tin of the same color as the gate;
If desired, the structure can be clad on both sides
- Finished doors are pushed on rollers to the end. The design should not look out of the doorway and to be in the worst position. If necessary, the lower rollers are regulated by means of special bolts;
The design is pushed to the very end
- On the supporting arm are placed rollers and are regulated so that the door leaf are arranged vertically;
Upper rollers move along the bracket and allow to expose the gate perfectly straight
- Gate closes to the desired position us. Next you need to mark the location of the bottom bracket catcher. Fasteners installed in the desired location, and then put itself trap and its position is adjusted by the gate before fastening. At the end part of the rack is placed a spacer cap rubber for shock absorption when locked in the trap;
Lower trap should be set very accurately
- The upper collector is put in a similar manner with the only difference being that it is located at 80 mm below the upper portion;
- Checked stroke gate. If necessary, a further adjustment, all the elements can be set to the desired position, and it is very convenient. If you have a version with electric drive, it is connected by the scheme, then checked his work.
The actuator is connected according to the scheme, if you doubt that it will cope with the work, it is better to attract specialist
Make the gate of corrugated board is easy, if you use this review as a guideline. Videos in this article will help you better understand the intricacies of the workflow, because it clearly shows many important points. If you still have questions on the subject, then write them in the comments at the bottom of the page.