Planting potatoes, when it is best to carry out, as well as a description of the methods of sowing

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Potatoes in Russia are now respectfully called “second bread” and are ubiquitous in garden plots. However, he took root long and hard. Although it was immediately noted the extreme undemanding culture in the care and its suitability for cultivation in a temperate climate. In fact, even now, many gardeners simply throw tubers in the garden and forget about them until the fall. But if you want to harvest a plentiful crop, plantings still have to pay enough attention. Potatoes also have their own nuances with regard to agricultural technology and preparation for planting.

Content:

  • Potato planting dates
    • In the spring
      • Video: optimal timing for planting potatoes
    • Summer
      • Video: harvesting potatoes planted in summer
    • Fall
    • To the greenhouse
  • Suitable soil and fertilizer required for the crop
    • Video: preparing a potato planting bed
    • Video: what fertilizers to put in the hole when planting potatoes
  • Vernalization and other preparatory procedures
    • Video: preparing potato tubers for planting
    • Video: dividing potato tubers
  • Potato planting methods
    • In the crests
      • Video: planting potatoes in the combs
    • Under the straw
      • Video: cultivating potatoes under a straw
    • "Eyes"
    • In sawdust
    • In a barrel
      • Video: growing potatoes in barrels
    • Seeds
      • Video: from planting seeds to harvesting potatoes
    • In the greenhouse
      • Video: potato cultivation indoors
    • In the box
    • In the warm beds
    • To nettle
  • How to plant potatoes in the old days

Potato planting dates

The specific time for planting potatoes is determined taking into account many factors. First of all, it is necessary to focus on the climate in this region, as well as on the category to which the selected variety belongs. Carrying out the procedure on time is very important. Research by agronomists proves that a deviation from the optimal period of two weeks in either direction reduces the future crop by at least 20%. With early planting, the emergence of seedlings takes more time, their risk of falling under spring return frosts significantly increases. And if you tighten with it, the soil, saturated with melt water, dries up, the tubers develop worse, they turn out to be medium-sized.

In the spring

As a general rule, potatoes can be planted no earlier than the soil at a depth of 8-10 cm warmed up to 6 ° C. Defining this is pretty easy. It is necessary to dig a hole of the required depth, remove a lump of soil from it and throw it on the ground. Its slight deformation means that it is still frozen. And when the substrate crumbles into small crumbs, it already dries up, and in no case should you delay the procedure. The most suitable option is a lump that breaks up into several parts.

Empty bed

Potato tubers are sensitive to soil temperature, so you should definitely try to plant them before anyone else.

Another fairly reliable indicator is folk signs. When the soil temperature reaches the required value, bird cherry, lilac and dandelions begin to bloom. Leaves open on birches, reaching the size of a penny coin.

Lilac bloom

The beginning of lilac flowering means that the soil has warmed enough and potatoes can be planted

You can speed up the process a little if at the very beginning of spring you clear the bed of snow, fill it with a mixture of peat crumb and humus and cover it with a black plastic film if possible hermetically.

The earliest planted early ripening (harvest ripens in 50–65 days) varieties of potatoes. The procedure in the middle of Russia can be planned for the second decade of April.

Potatoes of different varieties

The specific time for planting potatoes in the soil depends not only on the climate in the region, but also on the category of variety

The deadline for mid-early species comes in early May. But as a rule, gardeners do not really like such varieties - they are not distinguished by either stubbornness, high starchiness, or some outstanding taste.

Mid-season potatoes (ripening in 80–85 days) are valued for their high yield and drought tolerance. The optimal time for its landing is the last of May. After about a week, the line of medium-late and late varieties is suitable. The deadline for them is mid-June. It takes 95 days or more to ripen the tubers; you just may not have time to harvest until the first frost.

As for other regions, first of all (in early April, and sometimes at the end of March), potatoes are planted in the Black Sea region, Crimea, and the North Caucasus. In the Volga region, they begin landing at the end of April, in the North-West and North regions in the first decade of May. In the Urals, the Far East and Siberia, the procedure is postponed for another 2.5–3 weeks.

When planning gardening works, many resort to the help of the lunar calendar, which indicates the most favorable and least suitable days for a particular procedure. But, of course, such recommendations cannot be regarded as an imperative. If on a day recognized as favorable, it rains or snows on the wall, it is better to postpone the landing. In 2018, it is recommended to plant potatoes in May (4–6, 14, 30–31) and in June (1–2, 10–12, 29). An unfavorable time was also called for this - May 15, 20–23, 27–29 and June 13, 16–20, June 23–24.

Gardener's lunar calendar

Many gardeners are guided by the lunar calendar, but do not take his recommendations too literally

More than two hundred years of potato cultivation practice have revealed other patterns. For example, the one planted on Palm Week is more prone to rot. If the procedure is carried out on Wednesday or Saturday, the harvest will not work for a long time. And on Good Friday and Clean Thursday any landing work is prohibited at all.

Video: optimal timing for planting potatoes

Summer

In the summer, potatoes are planted only in early and mid-early varieties and exclusively in regions with a warm climate. Thus, you can get two crops. Already ripened tubers are planted in the garden again. They dig them out, as a rule, in late June or early July, when the potatoes have not yet ripened (the skin, if rubbed with your fingers, is easily removed). Preplanting takes some time. Again planted July 1-7. The second crop is harvested in September or in the first half of October.

New potatoes

In summer, root crops obtained from tubers planted in the spring are planted.

Video: harvesting potatoes planted in summer

Fall

Potatoes, even in regions with a temperate climate, successfully winter in the beds. This can be judged at least by the fact that tubers that were not noticed during harvesting sprout for next year. When planting before winter, it is quite possible to harvest an ultra-early crop in May-June. Although, of course, this method is not for the northern regions. For planting, early ripe varieties with increased frost resistance are chosen. The most suitable time is when at night the temperature drops below 0 ° C, the soil freezes slightly, and during the day it thaws.

To the greenhouse

Planting potatoes in a greenhouse is unprofitable in small personal plots, it makes sense only on an industrial scale. If the room is unheated, the only suitable time for disembarkation is the first half of March, when the daylight hours are already 10 hours or more. If there is heating in the greenhouse, tubers can be planted either at the end of summer (then the crop will ripen by the New Year) or in the last days of February (they dig this potato in May).

Potatoes planted in a greenhouse

Cultivation of potatoes in a greenhouse is expensive, it is cost-effective only on an industrial scale

Suitable soil and fertilizer required for the crop

Most often, gardeners do not think at all where to plant potatoes, filling tubers with areas that are not “in demand” by other crops. But this plant also has its own requirements for soil quality. It prefers soft, light, loose soil and categorically refuses to grow in a marshy, clay and saline substrate. Areas where groundwater comes close to the surface are also excluded. They are easily identified by abundantly growing moss and bluish tide.

Suitable place for growing potatoes

Potatoes, like many other garden crops, need warmth and sunlight for normal development.

It is necessary to pay attention to the acid-base balance. The soil should be neutral or slightly acidic. You can judge how suitable the soil is for potatoes by the weeds growing on the site. A substrate of similar quality is preferred by dandelions, wheat grass, clover, coltsfoot. It is possible to bring the acid-base balance to the desired one by introducing dolomite flour, slaked lime into acidic soil, egg shells crushed to a powdery state, and in an alkaline shell - peat, needles or fresh coniferous sawdust trees.

Clover

If the selected area is overgrown with clover, the soil is quite suitable for potatoes

Ideal for the culture of sandy loam, forest sierozem, light loam. But many soil deficiencies can be leveled by competent preparation of the garden bed and agricultural technology. Heavy soil is "loosened" with sand and sawdust, light "strengthen" with powder clay. Sandy substrate does not retain moisture well, so potatoes will need more frequent watering. A peat is characterized by a low level of nutrients. Stony soil is not fertile, but it is water-intensive and quickly warms up.

If the soil on the site initially suits the culture, the preparation of the bed consists in the planting of any green manure at the end of summer. Toward the end of October, they are mowed and planted in the soil.

Mustard leaf

Leaf mustard is a very popular green manure; it not only improves soil quality, but also repels wireworms

Those who are not so lucky during the autumn digging of the beds make humus or rotted manure (7–8 kg / m²), potash and phosphorus fertilizers (20–25 g / m² each). Excluded are those that contain chlorine, such as potassium chloride.

Humus

Humus - a natural remedy to increase soil fertility

Video: preparing a potato planting bed

Fertilizers are added to the hole when planting potatoes. In addition to the "standard" nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, tubers need calcium, magnesium and sodium. Top dressing is divided into two groups - organic and mineral. The first group includes:

  • Manure. It is used exclusively in rotated form. Contains nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and calcium.
  • Compost. It is not inferior in nutrition to manure, but they have an advantage - the gardener can produce it independently from any organic waste.
  • Wood ash. It is rich in potassium, calcium and phosphorus. It is a natural deoxidizer that provides prevention of the development of fungal diseases. It contains many trace elements - molybdenum, magnesium, boron, sulfur, sodium, iron.
  • Eggshell. It makes sense to use only the shell from raw eggs and well dried. It provides potatoes with calcium, reduces soil acidity.
Wood ash

Wood ash is just a storehouse of macro and micronutrients

Mineral fertilizing may contain any one macroelement or be complex. The most popular nitrogen fertilizers are urea, ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, potassium fertilizers - potassium sulfate, calimagnesia, phosphate - simple and double superphosphate. The composition of complex preparations can be judged by their name, if you know that "nitro" and "ammono" means the presence of nitrogen.

Nitrophoska

The vast majority of complex fertilizers contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, with the first it is very important not to overdo it

As a rule, when planting potatoes, both organic and mineral substances are put into the hole. Usually enough 200 g (two handfuls) of manure and 10-15 g (tablespoon) of complex fertilizer. But those who prefer subsistence farming replace the latter with a handful of ash and a couple of whispers of chopped eggshells. If it is not ground to a powder state, but slightly larger, such particles scare away many pests that do not have a strong shell.

Video: what fertilizers to put in the hole when planting potatoes

Vernalization and other preparatory procedures

Under vernalization is meant a system of measures aimed at preparing potatoes for planting. Productivity as a result increases by 20-30%. The whole procedure takes 30–45 days.

First of all, planting material is removed from the storehouse and examined, discarding obviously inappropriate specimens (small, deformed, affected by diseases and pests). Existing thin shoots break off. Then the tubers are soaked for 6-8 hours in a solution of any root stimulant (Epin, Kornevin, Heteroauxin). If there are a lot of them, you can decompose them in one layer and spray with the solution as it dries, turning over. The final stage is dressing for 15–20 minutes in fungicide. It is advisable to use modern drugs of biological origin - they do not harm human health and the environment.

The drug Epin

Epin - one of the most common biostimulants

There are several ways of vernalization:

  • Dry. Tubers in 2-3 layers are scattered in boxes, boxes or simply on the floor, laying something. Place them closer to the window. If the potato is exposed to direct sunlight, it is covered with white paper or a light cloth. The same must be done when using fluorescent lamps. The main feature of the method is that the tubers turn green, producing solanine. This is a natural phytoncide, poisonous to most pests. The temperature in the room is maintained at a level of 16-18 ° C.
  • Wet. Potatoes are sprouted by “planting” in boxes filled with a very loose light substrate, for example, sawdust, sphagnum moss, coconut fiber. It is constantly maintained in a moderately wet state. Provide a temperature of 22–25 ° С.
  • Combined. The tubers are first planted in the light, then sent for germination in boxes with a substrate.
Gardening potato tubers

Most gardeners prefer dry vernalization, during which the tubers gain additional protection against diseases and pests.

Video: preparing potato tubers for planting

The question of whether to plant cut tubers is one of the most controversial. Such specimens rot much more often and suffer from fungal diseases, and the smell of juice attracts many pests. But the proponents of the method have their own arguments, the main of which is a significant saving of planting material. And the risk of infection can be reduced by dipping the knife into the disinfectant solution after each cut and immediately treating the “wounds”, sprinkling them with a mixture of ash, tobacco dust and ground pepper. The experience of gardeners indicates that when planting cut potatoes, root crops on the bush on average produce less, but they are larger.

Chopped potato tubers

When cutting potato tubers, you need to be careful not to infect

Tubers selected for cutting must weigh at least 60 g. Perform the procedure immediately before landing or, if there is no such possibility, the day before. Although there are gardeners who do this immediately after the harvest, motivating them to heal well during the winter. Each piece should have at least one developed “eye”. Its minimum weight is 5–8 g.

Most often, tubers are cut across. At the same time, “eyes” at the apex develop much faster, therefore it is advisable to plant them separately so that they do not “strangle” weaker seedlings. If cut along, on each part you need to leave 2-3 “eyes”.

Tuber cutting pattern

Cross section allows you to separate the most developed “eye”, longitudinal - to get several more or less simultaneously forming plants

Gardeners also practice kerbovka - cuts with a depth of not more than 0.5 cm above the "eyes" located in the lower part of the tuber. This helps to redistribute the nutrients more evenly, all the "eyes" sprout at the same time. Another option is a transverse annular incision. But it is made only when the sprouts reach a length of 2-3 mm.

Ring cut on potato tuber

An annular incision made around one of the “eyes” redistributes most of the nutrients to it.

Video: dividing potato tubers

Potato planting methods

In addition to the traditional "grandfather way" of planting potatoes, there are other methods. Many of them are not without some advantages, so it is quite possible to experiment, at least in small beds.

In the crests

Landing in the ridges can be carried out earlier than usual, because there is no need to wait until the soil is warm enough. The bed is prepared immediately before planting, raking the upper most fertile layer of turf with a chopper on both sides. The ridges are located at a distance of about 40 cm from each other, the interval between adjacent tubers is 30–35 cm. The higher they get, the better.

Crested potatoes

Planting potatoes in the combs - traditional Dutch technology

For planting, tubers the size of a chicken egg with sprouts no more than 2-3 cm long are selected. They are laid out at the top of the ridge, lightly sprinkled with earth, moderately watered. As soon as the seedlings appear, they are again covered with fresh soil. Immediately after this, the bed is watered with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, after 2-3 days, the potatoes are fed with any complex fertilizer. During the summer, every time after rain, settling ridges must be restored to their previous height. Harvested by hand, just raking a created structure with a hoe or shovel.

Advantages of the method:

  • the soil is less depleted, because every year the position of the ridges on the bed can be changed;
  • yield increases due to the fact that the substrate warms up better;
  • the development of rot is practically excluded - excess water "rolls" along the ridge;
  • the need for frequent hilling disappears, soil aeration improves.

Disadvantages - the need to water the potatoes more often than usual, and the unsuitability of the method for light sandy soil (ridges simply crumble).

Video: planting potatoes in the combs

Under the straw

A plot at the end of summer should be seeded with siderata. In mid-October, they are mowed, greens are embedded in the soil. In the spring, the bed is well loosened. Potatoes sprouts up are laid out in furrows with a depth of 4-6 cm or simply on the surface of the soil, following the usual planting pattern. Of the fertilizers make only ash. From above it is covered with a layer of dry, not overripe straw, at least 20–25 cm thick.

Potatoes under the straw

Potatoes under the straw require minimal care from the gardener; it is also very easy to harvest; the only difficulty is to stock up on it in sufficient quantities

The main advantage of planting under straw is the minimal care required for planting. The bed does not need to spud, loosen, weed. Potatoes can well do with natural rainfall - mulch retains moisture in the soil, protects it from overheating. To harvest, it is enough to rake straw from the garden with a rake. The tubers are large and clean. Practice shows that the Colorado potato beetle attacks such beds extremely rarely.

The disadvantages of the method are the high consumption of straw, in which, in addition, rodents and landscaping are often planted tubers, if its layer is not thick enough (they are no longer suitable for food, only for planting).

Video: cultivating potatoes under a straw

"Eyes"

The main advantage of the method is a significant saving of planting material with better yield and higher quality root crops. But not all gardeners generally recognize the possibility of planting parts of a tuber. How to divide them, and which potatoes are suitable for this, is described above. You can plant "eyes" more closely than ordinary tubers, reducing the interval to 10-15 cm. They are deepened by a maximum of 6–7 cm.

Potato Eyes

“Eyes” are separated from potato tubers only with a sharpened and disinfected knife

Under normal conditions, an escape is formed from each “eye”. They are located in a small area, so they are forced to compete for food. The tubers do not have enough space, they turn out smaller than possible. Planting individual "eyes" allows you to solve these problems, as well as quickly propagate rare and / or expensive varieties.

But the bushes obtained from the "eyes" need higher doses of nutrients, because they are deprived of "NZ", the role of which is played by the mother tuber. They are also watered more often than usual. You will also have to pay attention to the disinfection of the instrument during the division of potatoes, the prevention of diseases and pests.

If you have very small "eyes", weighing 1-3 g, they can also be put into business, after growing seedlings in a greenhouse or at home.

In sawdust

Discussions about the benefits of organic farming have been going on for decades, but agronomists still have not come to a common point of view regarding it. Sawdust in this case is recommended only for rotted. Although there is another option - 20-25 days before planting, pour the sawdust with boiling water or a urea solution (100 g per 10 l) and cover with a plastic wrap. It is desirable that these were deciduous trees - conifers strongly acidify the soil.

Mulching potatoes with sawdust

Shoots from sawdust mulled potato tubers appear later than usual

Tubers are laid on the surface of the soil, each sprinkled with a bucket of sawdust. Shoots appear about two weeks later than usual. Care for them comes down to periodically adding sawdust to the roots of plants. Watering is not necessary, spud too. The experience of gardeners indicates that under such conditions the root system of plants turns out to be much more powerful and developed. Harvesting is easy - just rake the sawdust. Tubers ripen large, clean, regular in shape. True, there are not many of them on the bush - a maximum of 5-6 pieces.

In a barrel

Any barrel is suitable for growing potatoes, only first you need to completely remove the bottom or drill a sufficiently large number of holes in it and in the walls. To water and saturate the substrate with oxygen, you will need two pieces of a plastic pipe. The container is filled with a mixture of humus or ready-made compost with ordinary garden soil. The soil must first be sterilized. Then make mineral or organic fertilizers, as in a regular bed.

Growing Potatoes in a Barrel

A barrel or other container with potatoes can be placed in any free corner of the garden

The barrel is placed vertically, a layer of substrate 10–15 cm thick is covered with seedlings, and sprouted tubers are laid out. From above add as much soil. As the seedlings grow, they add soil to the soil until they reach the edge of the barrel. Deprived of the ability to form a foliage bush normally, all forces are directed to the development of the root system.

Such potatoes are often watered during the growing season, preventing the substrate from drying out, and once a month fed with infusions of fresh manure, bird droppings, nettle leaves and dandelion. For 10 l of top dressing, 10-15 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added.

When grown in barrels, tubers are large and numerous. The risk of developing diseases and pest attacks is virtually eliminated. Soil can be used several times. After harvesting, green manure is sown in a barrel, in the middle of autumn a new portion of humus and the necessary fertilizers are introduced.

Video: growing potatoes in barrels

Seeds

Seeds can be purchased at the store or collected independently. It will cost much less than mini tubers. They take up much less space than ordinary planting material. You can guarantee the absence of diseases in the obtained tubers. However, the received seedlings are capricious in leaving, very often suffer from the "black leg". You need to be careful not to damage them when transplanting. Seed germination is quite low, planting material is stored in excess.

Potato berries

Many consider potato berries to be useless, but from them it is quite possible to get seeds suitable for planting.

Potato seedlings are grown in a very loose substrate, for example, in a mixture of peat and sawdust. First, the seeds are soaked first in cold, then in hot water. To ensure the necessary microclimate, the container with them is closed with polyethylene or glass.

Potato seedlings

Seedlings obtained from potato seeds are fragile enough, when planting with them you need to be careful

Seedlings with 4–5 leaves are planted in the ground in late May. The harvested tubers of the first crop vary greatly in shape, size, skin tone. Of these, the gardener chooses those that he considers the most promising, and plants the next year, taking off a full-fledged crop.

The first potato seed crop

Growing potatoes from seeds is a unique opportunity to feel like a breeder

Video: from planting seeds to harvesting potatoes

In the greenhouse

Cultivation of potatoes in closed soil costs a gardener much more expensive than growing it in a garden. Therefore, in personal garden plots it is simply unprofitable. Varieties are selected only early and ultra-early. If the greenhouse is unheated, frost resistance is also important.

Tubers are selected a little larger than for planting in open ground (80-100 g), plant greenery. Be sure to take measures to prevent the appearance of cubs and rodents. Potatoes are planted no earlier than the substrate in the greenhouse warms up to 5 ° C. If it has heating, it is turned on about 5-7 days before planting. Tubers are not divided so as not to attract pests by the smell of juice. The beds are covered with black breathable material until shoots appear.

Growing potatoes in a greenhouse

The main danger that threatens potatoes in the greenhouse is not disease (with the exception of late blight), but bears and rodents

The greenhouse maintains a constant temperature of 18–20ºС, raising it to 22–24ºС for the period of budding and flowering. Before the flowers bloom, the potatoes are mulched or spud. Bushes with the slightest suspicious symptoms, reminiscent of late blight, are removed immediately. Indoors, this disease spreads extremely quickly.

The soil in an unheated greenhouse warms up faster if you orient it along the east-west line and build a peaked, not domed roof.

Video: potato cultivation indoors

In the box

The method differs little from the cultivation of potatoes in barrels. Only in this case can you grow more tubers. The box is comparable in size to a garden bed. Eliminates the need for weeding and hilling the beds, in order to remove the crop, it is enough to disassemble the structure. The only caveat - to use the substrate again will not work.

Potatoes in the box

Growing potatoes in a box is very similar to cultivating it in a barrel.

Boxes are filled with a mixture of peat with sand, compost and ordinary garden soil in a ratio of 3: 1: 1: 1. A drainage layer is mandatory at the bottom. Emerging seedlings are periodically covered with a substrate until buds form. Water and nutrients in the form of a solution are supplied through tubes. They are made of different heights to soak the substrate as evenly as possible.

In the warm beds

This bed needs to be prepared in the fall. In the spring, the soil warms up much faster, respectively, potatoes can be planted earlier.

The selected area is fenced with boards or a hole is dug with a depth of about 30 cm. At the bottom sprinkled with chips, sawdust, small twigs, straw, fallen leaves and so on. Top - a layer of humus or rotted compost about 10 cm thick and freshly cut grass (5–7 cm). All this is poured with a solution of urea (200 g per 10 l) or granulated sugar (100 g per 3 l). In winter, the garden bed is pulled up with plastic wrap.

Warm bed

The basis of a warm bed is any organic garbage, decomposing, it warms the soil nearby

In spring, the soil is loosened about a week before planting and spilled with a solution of any biostimulant. The bed is necessarily mulched. Potato care during the season is common. Such a design will last for 2–3 years, until the organics completely crossbreeds.

To nettle

Thus, it is possible to plant potatoes in both open and closed ground. Instead of any fertilizer, narcotized or otherwise shredded nettle leaves are put in the hole for planting, creating a “pillow” 5–7 cm thick. The nettle most nutritious for plants collected in May. The stronger it is crushed, the faster it rots.

Nettle infusion

When planting potatoes in nettles, they put it in a hole, and then during the growing season they use it as fertilizer

During the season, potato bushes are fed with infusion of nettle leaves every 1.5–2 weeks (liter per plant), a day after the procedure, the soil is loosened, in the process distributing sifted wood over the garden ash. The rest of the care is ordinary.

How to plant potatoes in the old days

Many ancient methods of growing potatoes have been successfully practiced at present and bring good results.

For a sandy substrate, the trench method is best suited. They dig them in the fall, orienting strictly along the north-south axis. The optimum depth is 45-60 cm. At the bottom of a layer of about 15 cm throw any plant debris. In the spring, they add about the same amount of humus, plant tubers and fill the soil remaining after digging the trench.

For clay soil, the hole method is suitable. They are also digging in the fall. Depth is about 45 cm. Each put about a shovel of compost and a handful of wood ash. In early March, snow is removed from the field and cast humus over it. The soil warms up faster, potatoes can be planted in mid-April. Wells are covered with compost, creating a layer with a thickness of at least 25 cm, watered abundantly. The first crop is harvested in June. The tops are again planted in the same holes. By the beginning of September, the second portion of root crops is ripening.

Widely practiced and growing potatoes under the straw. It protects the planting soil from drying out and overheating. The field does not need to be dug up beforehand, as well as to spud and weed. Harvesting is much easier, tubers do not get dirty in the ground.

At first glance, growing potatoes is very simple. But here there are important agricultural technical nuances, without the knowledge of which it will not be possible to collect a plentiful crop. This applies to the timing of planting, as well as the preparation of the beds and the tubers themselves. In addition to the traditional "grandfather", there are other methods of growing potatoes. Many of them are indisputable, not suitable for all gardeners, but at the same time they have certain advantages.

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