Electric stove is an excellent choice for a modern kitchen. Provided it is properly installed and used, the device will function properly for many years. Of course, to connect the electric stove you can invite a qualified master, but if you want you can do everything on your own and save it!
Read the basic requirements for the connection of modern electric stoves, the existing circuits, as well as the direct installation and grounding instructions.
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- 1 Wiring
- 2 Requirements Wiring diagrams Cooktop
- 2.1 Single-phase connection
- 2.2 two-phase connection
- 2.3 Three-phase connection
- 3 Connect electric stove
- 3.1 first step
- 3.2 second step
- 3.3 The third step
- 3.4 The fourth step
- 3.5 The fifth step
- 3.6 The sixth step
- 3.7 The seventh step
- 4 Manuals
- 4.1 The first option is to find out whether the
- 4.2 apartment board is grounded. The second option is for residents of apartments on the ground floor and owners of houses
- 4.3 The third option is if it is not grounded
- 4.4 Video - Electrical connection by own hands
Introductory Machine Important! Before proceeding with any manipulation of wires and electrical appliances, turn off the electricity supply to the house or apartment.
Modern models of electric stoves are usually sold without a cord in the kit. There is a reasonable explanation for this: safety requires that such devices be connected by means of high-quality terminal blocks, i.e.by so-called.without a rosette method. With this connection option, it is possible to increase the length of the supply cord, and instead of the machine for more powerful models, it is allowed to install a fuse-link.
For connection, a cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 should be used, if its length does not exceed 12 m. In case of using a longer wire, the minimum allowable cross-section value increases to 6 mm2.It is absolutely necessary to install a separate machine specifically for the plate.
Connecting via an outlet is also acceptable. It is necessary only that the device was designed for a current of 32 A. Electric plates consume quite a lot of energy, so it is forbidden to include them in simple household outlets.
Thus, the requirements for connecting the electric stove can be combined into a short but very important list, including the following:
- for connecting the device, a three-core copper cable with a cross-section of 4 mm2 or 6 mm2 depending on the length of the cord;
- in the electrical panel installed separate plate machine;
- a protective shutdown device is installed;
- the plate is grounded by an accessible method. The possible grounding options will be described at the end of the manual.
Connection diagrams for electric cookers
Before proceeding with the installation of the device, consult the existing wiring diagrams.
The most common option. Most often found in apartments of multi-storey houses.
With single-phase connection, the connection unit will be as follows( see diagram).
Terminals 1-2-3, and also 4-5 are connected by bridges of copper with a cross-section of 6 mm2.If you bought a modern stove, the necessary jumpers will be present in the kit.
The phase conductor( can be gray, brown or black) is connected to the terminal under the number 1, 2 or 3.
The zero conductor( usually blue) is connected to the 4th or 5th terminal. The ground wire( in the diagram it is yellow-green) is connected to the 6th terminal.
The terminal bolts must be tightened as far as they will go. In the event of a poor connection, the terminals may burn, which will result in a fire.
In the case of using a female connection, the phase conductor in the plug and socket is fed to terminal L, the neutral conductor goes to the terminal labeled N, we start the ground wire on the corresponding terminal( marked with grounding pattern, PE letters or earth).
Rare, but still there is a two-phase connection. For example, phases A and C may be present, but there will be no phase B.
With this connection, terminals 1 and 2 must be connected with a jumper and connect phase A through it. The same phase C goes to the third terminal. The further order of connection remains the same as the previous methods.
Three-phase power supply is most often encountered by owners of private houses. The supply wire in this situation will consist of 4 or 5 cores. The voltage between zero and phases will be 220 V, and between phases 380 V.
In such conditions, the electric stove will be connected according to the appropriate scheme. The phases A, B and C will go to the corresponding terminals 1, 2 and 3.
The connection of terminals 4, 5 and 6 is similar to the single-phase connection.
We connect the electric stove
The connection procedure remains the same for networks with any number of phases. There are only some nuances about which you will learn further. We will connect the connection via a socket.
The first step of the
Select the place to install the device. Electric stove is classified as a high-power electric receiver. To ensure its reliable and safe operation, on the wall closest to the plate we install a socket with a grounding contact. At the same time, the current rating of the socket should be 32-40 A. There will be three outlets for a single-phase electrical network of contacts, five for two- and three-phase networks.
We install a separate circuit breaker in the switchboard. If the network is two- or three-phase, we put a three-way switch to 16 A. In the case of operation in a single-phase network, we install a single-band automatic device. The switch rating must be 25-32 A.
We mount the wire for connecting the electric stove. In two- and three-phase networks we use a 5x2.5 cable of the VVGng brand, for connection in a single-phase mode we use a 3x4 cord of the same brand. We pull the wire from the electric panel to the outlet of our electric stove.
Connect the wire to the socket according to one of the above diagrams. Close the socket cover. We work very carefully, observing the established standards. If the connection is made using a three-wire cable, then the brown wire( also it can be white) is connected to the phase connector of the installed electrical outlet, the blue wire( can be white with a blue strip) is started at the "zero" connector, and the yellow-green wire is connectedwith a grounding plug. The wires of the five-wire cable are often painted in brown, white and red. The order of their connection, as well as the features of marking the sockets of the sockets, was considered earlier in the description of the circuits.
We connect the plug with the flexible wire of the electric stove. At the same time, we pay attention to the peculiarities of marking the plug. The element is connected in the same way as the electrical outlet.
Connect the flexible wire to the plate. At this stage, much depends on the model of the device to be installed and the number of phases in the home electrical network. In general, the manufacturers give the schemes of connecting their plates in the enclosed instructions or on the rear covers of the units. Follow the manufacturer's suggested recommendations.
The ends of the flexible wire are recommended to be irradiated before installation in the terminal clamps - this will ensure maximum reliable contact.
We divide the supply cable of the electric plate in the switchboard, after which we clean the ends of the wires. We connect the phase conductors of the supply cable to the strip clamps of the machine. The vein of "zero" is connected to the common bus for all conductors of zero. Only the yellow-green vein remained unconnected. In modern systems, such wires are connected to earthing buses. In older networks such as TN-C, there are no ground buses. What to do? We read further.
Guide to the grounding of the electric cooker
When working in networks of the old model, even skilled specialists often commit a gross mistake deliberately by grounding various electrical appliances to work zero tires. This connection is fraught with an extremely unfavorable consequence: if the zero wire breaks, the phase will pass through the load straight to the appliance and the user will be shocked.
Often, electricians admit another gross error, confusing the wires of the phase and zero. When doing this "grounding" the result will be similar to the previous case - the owner of the plate can hit with a current at any time. But you can not refuse zeroing. There are several ways to solve the problem. Familiarize yourself with the available methods and choose the one suitable for your situation.
The first option is to find out whether the
apartment shield is grounded. For this, go to the Housing department or other service organization. If a representative of the company says that the shield body is reliably grounded, we will only have to connect the yellow-green wire to this housing through the bolt.
If the representative of the service organization gives a negative answer or gets confused in his testimony, it is impossible to ground the method described above - it will either be inefficient, or lead to electric shock from the user of the electric stove.
The second option - for residents of apartments on the ground floor and owners of houses
Owners of such real estate can try to create a separate ground loop. It is done like this:
- , behind the outer wall of the building, steel rods are dug into the ground with steel rods from 16 mm in diameter and from 250 cm in length in the number of three pieces;
- dug rods are connected by a strip of steel 4 cm wide and 0.5 cm thick;
- a grounding( yellow-green) wire is drawn from the electrical board, previously terminated with a tip;
- from the ground loop up to the ground wire draws wire rod. The recommended diameter of such a wire is 0.8 cm. A steel plate with a bolt hole is pre-welded to the end of the wire rod. The grounding cable is bolted to the wire rod plate at a height of at least 250 cm from the ground level;The
- ground cable is connected to a separate zero bus in the switchboard. To the same bus, connect the ground wire from the installed plate.
Important! Before taking the grounding device into service, you need to invite a specialist to measure the resistance of the installation. You can perform such verification yourself only if you have a special device. The resistance value must not exceed 8 ohms.
Table. The smallest dimensions of grounding conductors and grounding conductors laid in the ground
|Material||Section profile||Diameter, mm||Cross-sectional area, mm||Wall thickness, mm|
|Steel black||Round for vertical earthing switches||16||-||-|
|Steel black||Round for horizontal earthing switches||10||-||-|
|Steel zinced||Circleoutput for vertical earthing||12||-||-|
|Galvanized steel||round for horizontal earthing||10||-||-|
|Copper||Multiwire wire rope||1.8||50||-|
Third option - if grounding fails
The shield is not grounded, and making an individual grounding loop is notopportunities? Then just muffle the yellow-green wire and leave it in the shield until better times.
Fix in this situation pay special attention.
First, install it so that the probability of simultaneous contact of the user with the plate and various current-carrying elements such as cranes, sinks, pipes, etc. is excluded.metal products.
Secondly, near the electric stove, if not a special dielectric coating, then at least a dense dry mat.
Third, the usual automatic in the shield is replaced by a differential model with a 30-milliampere rating.
Fourthly, we take special care and vigilance in the operation of ungrounded electric stoves.
Important! It is impossible to ground the electric stove to the water supply, sewerage and heating pipes. Although the listed elements are by rules and must be reliably grounded, no one usually controls the resistance of such grounding. The result may be a breakdown of the appliance, electric shock to the user and damage to property, moreover not only his own, but also his neighbor. Also, it is impossible to ground electrical appliances to other engineering communications, such as elevator shafts, ventilation ducts, etc.