How to plaster the ceiling for painting

While doing major repairs and planning while painting a new interior painted ceiling, will have to try a lot of to make it perfectly even beforehand. As a rule, almost all the ceilings in apartments have separate defects, and means , the surface needs to be put in order, before the decorative painting is done. According to the technology, the surface is first patched, thereby eliminating any irregularities and flaws.

To know how to plaster the ceiling for painting, you need to study the entire process of the , starting with the surface preparation.

After completing all the necessary procedures, you can hide not only the small errors of the ceiling, but also the ugly seams which usually present on the ceilings in the apartments of on the joints of the slabs.

The putty is also required on ceilings made with gypsum boards, as they also have joint seams. They are sealed with the help of gluing the mesh-serpent, and the areas of plate connection are compared with the whole plane of the ceiling also with

with filler.

Kinds of of fillers and their sequence of application

Industry manufactured fillings can have different basis , as well as ceilings can be constructed of different materials. In each specific case, the mixture which is closer in its composition to the material is selected, from of which is made the surface to be leveled.

fillers in acrylic and glue based, as well as oil-based, latex, cement and other bases are on sale in specialized stores.

This finishing material is available as dry mixes in paper bags and in paste form, packed in plastic containers.

Each of the packages of the mixture necessarily contains information on the compatibility of the of this composition with different types of ceilings, , therefore, , buying material for alignment, this trip is paying special attention.

In addition to the basic base, the mixtures are divided into the starting ones, which are applied to the surface by the first layers, and the final ones used at the final stages of work.

• Starting mixes are thick enough and, due to special component parts, they are plastic and easily lie on the surface. Such fillers are designed to seal small holes, cracks and align quite significant differences, as well as to prepare the surface for better adhesion to the finish material.

Starting putty , if necessary, apply in several layers , each of which must be thoroughly dried.

If the cracks or potholes are large enough, they are reinforced with a sickle, on top of which putty is applied and leveled.

• For the final finishing of the ceiling to the required state for painting works, the final putty is required. If the starting material is applied correctly, the finishing layer is applied easily, making the surface perfectly smooth.

For better adhesion, the final composition of the mixture is made more liquid in consistency, and the filler fraction in the is much smaller. It is applied by a thin, covered, we can say, decorative layer. But if you do not use the starting mixes, the finishing layer will not give the desired result, because it simply repeats all the disadvantages of the surface. This once again shows how important it is to make the main job of leveling and sealing flaws the starting lineup.

An important process in leveling is priming the surface of the ceiling both before applying the first starting layer, and before each subsequent one.

Tools for shpatlevochnyh works

tool. Not only high-quality materials will be needed for work, but some - tools can not be aligned without them. If there are no apartments in the owner's home arsenal, the will have to purchase , since no self-made replacements in this matter are welcomed, and the final quality of the work performed directly depends on the quality of the instrument.

• Spatulas of different sizes, from narrow to wide, up to 500 - 600 mm long. They serve to apply and level the mixture on the surface of the ceiling.
• For the convenience of taking the prepared mixture from the of the tank and spreading its onto the spatula, you may need a trowel or a trowel.
• Capacity for mixing mortar, if it is bought in the form of a dry construction mix. It is recommended that it be easier to carry out the kneading process, to choose packaging volume not less than 10 - 15 liters.
• Construction mixer or electric drill with special mixing nozzle. Convenient if the drill has the ability to adjust the speed and reverse rotation - the quality of the batch increases from this.

• ceiling. The Smoothie - this tool sucks both for application and leveling the mortar on the surface. Putty in with a gentle quantity on , is applied with a spatula.

• surface. The - grater is designed for grinding the surface if the surface is exposed to when the layer is applied. grater is equipped with abrasive grids, sandpaper of the required grain size or felt pad - the choice of the required lining is made depending on the stage of work being performed.
• Rubber trowel - it is necessary for sealing deep slots and grooves, as well as joints of gypsum boards.
• Roller and brush for applying primer, paint tank.
• The process of grouting and grinding the surface is usually accompanied by abundant dusting. In this regard, it is recommended to provide face protection for , especially the eye( s) and respiratory system( respirator).

Preparing the surface of the ceiling for putty

By purchasing materials for work and having all the necessary tools, you can move on to preparing the ceiling for future work.

Ceiling surface cleaning

If several layers of fillings and plasters were previously applied to the ceiling, but they did not lead to surface leveling, and in addition, started their peeling, and in some cases even loss, then the old coating must be completely removed.

ceiling. If the plaster layers are held tightly, but they are whitewashed or painted, then only the last layers can be cleaned off, along with any unevenness.

In addition, during the operation of the room on the ceiling, darkening from dampness, mold formations or rusty spots of - may appear, they must also be removed.

Removal of whitewash can be done by flushing. To do this, water is applied to the whitewash using - water, this procedure is performed several times. After a good whitewash, it is removed with brush or sponge, and then the surface is wiped with a dry cloth.

But it can also happen that whitewashing, even with its humidification, does not lend itself to erasing brush .In this case, the comes with an spatula made from a fairly thick metal in 2 - 3 mm. The wet coating is removed with this tool quite easily, so that work to moisten it will not be in vain in any case. In order for the cleaning process from the old plaster to go quickly and just to , it is slightly taped with an ordinary hammer.

If the emulsion paint is applied to the ceiling, it is more difficult to clean the with its , but this is necessary, otherwise the putty will not lie flat and adhere to the surface reliably .

If you have old coating of water-based paint, you can use the folk method for its removal. For it, you need to dilute in a water bucket the usual iodine - it will only need one bubble .Then, this solution is impregnated with the paint and left for a while. After this procedure water emulsion can easily be cleaned.

There are also modern compositions for flushing various old coatings - they are used from calculation of 0.5 liters per square meter. Apply solutions with a conventional roller and leave the for only 25 - for 30 minutes, and then take it off with the discolored paint. Proce ss pr goes around quickly enough, without any contamination of around.

Once the ceiling has been cleaned of the layers of the of the old coating, it must be freed from the remaining dust. First on surfaces are covered with coarse-grained emery paper, fixed on grater , then swept away brush , and then the ceiling is wiped with a clean damp cloth.

Removal of significant flaws in the

ceiling After clearing the ceiling of the old cover , , the is sure to show various flaws, such as protrusions, depressions and cracks. The latter are most often opened at the junctions between the slabs and in the corners of the rooms. It is also necessary to work on these problems, since if they are not completely capped, then the putty with time goes t t by the cracks and falls off. That the work has not been done in vain, it is necessary to conduct some events.

• Detected slots need to be expanded and several deepen the with a spatula or drill with a perforator.
• Then, from them rigid with a brush the dust and small fragments is cleaned out. If necessary for clearing water is used.
• The inner surfaces of the resulting holes, cracks and cavities are primed before filling.
• If the slots are sufficiently deep and wide, they are filled with a mounting foam. Slots of medium size can be sealed with a sealant.
• Small cracks or small grooves are covered with with , which is then leveled, and after drying, sanded with sandpaper.
• If protrusions of 5 mm or more are detected on the ceiling, they must be knocked down by using a chisel with with a hammer or a perforator.

Removal of mold stains and prevention of the development of microflora

If the ceiling is placed in rooms with a high humidity, then often spots of mold are found on the without .Well, if it appeared only on the surface layers of plaster, which all is equally removed, but sometimes mold colonies penetrate even the material of the walls. Therefore, in places where rx st has been found in ara covering has been found mold, even if the is not visible after cleaning the spots, , it is necessary to perform a special treatment on the already cleaned surface.

There are several ways to combat mold, and they are all quite affordable and in the way they are used.

• Domestic and foreign compositions are on sale, which are very easy to use, since they are produced in cans. Treatment in the of this case is to spray with a damaged fungus ceiling area and its to dry for 40 - for 60 minutes. When applied to the surface of this product, it begins to hiss, in contact with the organic. When this reaction is over, the ceiling can be considered cleaned from fungal manifestations. However, it should be noted that such formulations are good only in the initial stages of the emergence of dark spots, so you should never run this state - it's better to immediately process the first signs. When working with these products, based on chlorine-containing compounds, it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract by wearing a mask or respirator.
• Another method of dealing with this scourge is the treatment of foci with copper sulfate or, as its is still called , "blue stone".It is also used as a prophylactic tool , adding to the wall finishes.
• Another is one tool that is designed for bleaching laundry( known to to all housewives called "Whiteness"), also helps in combating with dark mold spots. This liquid formulation is applied to the cleaned surfaces with a brush and left to dry completely.
• There are also special antiseptic primers that are applied to the ceiling before it is putty. In this case, immediately solve two problems - is the counteraction to the development of mold colonies and the simultaneous preparation of the surface for its hardening and for better adhesion of the deposited materials with each other.

Priming of the ceiling surface

Cleaned, with embedded cracks and crevices, as well as antifungal treated ceiling, must be primed. The primer is spread on the surface with a roller, and the angles are additionally treated with a brush, since it is not recommended to skip even the smallest part of the surface.

Choose a primer that has the properties of deep penetration into the surface material. It is this composition that will ensure excellent adhesion of the overlap with the starting putty layer - the finished solution on primed the ceiling will lie down easily and smoothly.

As mentioned above, there are primers that have antiseptic properties. Using them, you can safely abandon other antifungal agents.

It is advisable to carry out priming treatment in two layers with a thorough drying of each of them - this eliminates the risk of detaching the starting putty , and means , and the finish layer will also reliably fixed on the surface.

Application of starting putty

Dry, prepared ceiling can be started to cover the starting with putty. It must be remembered that this layer can be called the most important, since it is that sets for the smoothness and smoothness of the surface, so it must be done on conscience, even even a small error.

• The first thing that is done, going to this stage of work - is to mix the solution. To do this, in a clean tank pour water and fall asleep a dry mixture of starting putty .For each variety of the mixture there are their own proportions, so you can find out exactly by reading the instructions on the package. The consistency of the solution should resemble the average density of the plastic paste.

Mix the solution using a construction mixer or drill with a nozzle. It is necessary to bring the composition to an ideally homogeneous state, without lumps. When kneading, special attention is paid to the "problematic" places - the areas where the bottom of the tank fits into with its stacks, as clumps often remain here. After obtaining the desired homogeneous consistency of the solution, it is necessary to allow the time to "ripen" - minutes 5 - 10, and then still once thoroughly mix.

• Apply putty starting from the wall, immediately aligning the angle and the joint of the ceiling with the wall.

• Using a trowel from of the tank a small amount of solution is taken up and transferred to a wide spatula.
• Then, in a circular motion, the solution is applied to the ceiling and is distributed over the surface, leaving no burrs and protruding strips - marks from the spatula. The starting layer of the filler should not exceed 1.5 - 2 mm.
• Special attention should be paid to areas where the filling of slots and other flaws, as well as joints of plates, was made. It is very important that they merge with the common plane of the ceiling into a single surface, without distinction in height.
• If necessary, after drying the first layer of the starting shpatklevki , on top of it superimpose the second. The drying time of the first layer is about 8 hours, and the second one is about - 15.
• When the layers of the starting putty dry, for sure there will be slight flaws. They can be removed using grater with installed on it abrasive mesh for sanding or sandpaper.

• The work with the grater is carried out in a circular motion, which are carried out from right to left, as shown in the figure. Carrying out the process of grouting, you need to use protective goggles and a mask( or respirator), so as not to inhale the dust.

Ceiling Filler

Finishing layer putty can be called decorative. It is applied to the starting material thin, in 1 - 2 mm layer. It must be remembered that it will not close the ledges and bumps if they are left on the previous layer, but it is capable of giving the ceiling an ideal smoothness.

The mortar for this layer is prepared in the same way as the starting mixture, according to the information on the package. If there is no certainty that the desired consistency of the pasty mixture will be achieved, then ready-made filler compounds can be used.

Next, the solution is typed by the trowel and stacked on a wide spatula and the same, at first smooth movements from the wall, and then circular, putty is distributed over the surface. At the same time, all the surpluses are selected and the traces of the spatula are aligned to practically perfect smoothness.

For the ceiling to be ready for painting, it is best for the final step to use the ready filler on an acrylic base. Its is applied only after the previous layer has been completely set. The thickness of the acrylic material should not exceed 1 mm.

• If the acrylic putty is sufficiently ductile and evenly distributed over the surface, the ceiling is almost never required t t grinding.

Video: puttying of the ceiling for painting

Features of work on the plasterboard ceiling

Arranging the suspended leveling ceilings from plasterboard, without putty also can not do. Even material sheets fit well together, but the chamfer arranged along their edges does not allow to make the surface perfectly smooth, therefore it is necessary to resort to shpatlevaniyu.

For similar work on gypsum plasterboard, finish mixes having fine-grained structure - are used, they fit well on the surface and are able to align to the ideal .

• Once the plasterboard is all fastened , with filler all the grooves from the die heads are cut by the sheets to the metal profile system. Do not seal only those that are on the edge of the sheets, since they will be zasparatlevany together with joints.
• Next, each of the joints is glued with a tape of a special reinforcing mesh-serpyanki. Shirina such tape should be at least 50 mm.

• The mixture for work is done in the same way as for other jobs - it is necessary in pure tank with a drill and a mixer-mixer. To seal seams do not need to mix a lot of putty - it's better, if necessary, to make its in several hits.

• Next, using an average width of the putty knife, the mortar is applied to the joint areas and is well leveled flush with the overall surface.

• Masters-plasterers are strongly recommended in those places where the cut edges of plasterboard are joined, the must cut the chamfer before gluing the reinforcing mesh. This deepens the seam and opens the inner layer of the sheet - putty will have better grip with opened gypsum than with cardboard.

Video: sealing joints between drywall sheets

• If during the installation of GVL dents or other defects of appeared on its surface, they also need to fill .
• After drying putty at the joints, in the places of screwing screws and in areas of minor repairs, they are protected with sandpaper, comparing with the overall surface. The reinforcing mesh should be completely hidden under the putty layer.
• After grinding, the entire surface of the gypsum board ceiling, intended for painting, is covered with a primer that will not allow moisture from the finish filler to absorb quickly into the top layer of the finishing material. The primer can be applied in two steps.
• The entire putty filler is applied to the entire primed surface with a wide spatula using the same technology as ceilings from other materials. It should be superimposed very thinly - this layer is necessary in order to combine all the seams and the overall smooth surface into a single coating.

• Such , the filled ceiling will dry out quickly enough. Next, it needs to be gently sanded, because on it could be left unnoticed by the spatula, and even small protrusions and troughswill manifest.

In order not to skip any part of the surface when performing grinding, they work in the in a darkened room, and only the flashlight is used for lighting, with even minor irregularities immediately apparent. These areas also need to be ground using fine-grained( 200 - 400) sandpaper, installed for convenience on the grater .

• After grinding from the ceiling, you must gently sweep away any dust that has formed. This can be done with a soft wide brush or vacuum cleaner.
• The final stage of work on putty ceiling before painting is priming. If this process is not carried out, the moisture from the water-based paint will be quickly absorbed into the putty, and the color will be uneven.
• Primer is applied with a roller, on which the soft synthon nozzle is put on. Joints between walls and ceiling, as well as corners are primed with a brush.
• After complete drying of the first primer, it is recommended to apply the compound again.

Video: Finishing shpatlevanie gipsokartonnogo ceiling

When the layers of the primer on the ceiling completely dry, you can start painting it. Success in this can be achieved only by when using high-quality paint , the selection of which is detailed in the relevant article of our portal.

At the end of the , it must be emphasized that the painting work is not as simple as it seems at first glance. To zashpatlevat ceiling for painting, you need to have considerable experience of such works. If there is none, then it is better not to take immediately for the extensive "ceremonial" premises of the apartment, and experiment on a small area, for example, in the pantry and whether the utility room. When " hardness hands" appears, you can try your hand at other rooms.