Since suspended ceilings have become widespread, the issue of installing drywall on the ceiling with their own hands appears quite often among craftsmen who want to save on construction work.
If you follow the instructions exactly, it can happen to everyone. Experienced masters perform everything on the machine, and for beginners the main thing is not to rush and stuff your hand.
Suspended structures from gypsum cardboard can be finished and wooden ceiling, and hide the unevenness of the concrete. This ceiling will help realize the most daring design ideas.
Contents:
- Advantages and Disadvantages
- Required Materials and Tools
- Marking up the working area of the frame fasteners
- Covering the frame with gypsum boards and sealing
Advantages and disadvantages
First you should know about all the advantages and disadvantages of this method of finishing.
The undoubted advantage is that this design is able to transform even the most curved ceiling with a small amount of time, since preliminary preparation of the surface is not necessary.
The material allows you to create designs of any complexity, in the photo, for example, a successful version of a two-level ceiling is presented.
Inside the gypsum cardboard box, you can hide all available wires, pipes, and communications. Also, the plasterboard ceiling allows you to "play" with light.
In this case, you can move away from the classical arrangement of the chandelier in the center of the ceiling and "scatter" the light sources at your discretion, highlighting the separate working areas, as in the upper photo for example.
If there is a need for additional sound or heat insulation, then all the insulation material is also easily hidden inside the drywall box.
The plasterboard ceiling can be installed in any room, even with high humidity, like a bathroom or a kitchen.
And most importantly, you can do this work with your own hands, without resorting to the help of masters.
However, this way of decorating the ceiling is not without flaws. The most important of these is that the ceiling height of plasterboard is at least 5-10 centimeters. Not every room is suitable.
Self-assembly is possible, but sometimes you have to resort to the help of a partner. In addition, you need to have special tools.
Required materials and tools
Any work begins with the preparation of the necessary tools and materials. This list is quite large, but you can not do without it.
So, we will need:
- punch;
- screwdriver;
- measuring tape;
- hammer;
- building level;
- hydro level;
- cord release device;
- knife for metal;
- stationery knife.
The hydraulic level is a tube connecting two flasks with water. This device serves for accurate marking of horizontal lines.
How to work with a cordstitch device, is clearly shown in the first video presented.
For finishing works you will need:
- putty;
- reinforcing tape for joints;
- acrylic primer;
- several spatulas.
If the wooden ceiling is to be treated, then an antifungal solution is needed.
For work will have to stock up a large number of anchor wedges, metal screws, dowel-nails. If there is a need for heat or sound insulation, it is better to purchase the appropriate materials in advance.
Well, by itself you need drywall, sealing tape, guiding profiles, ceiling profiles for gypsum board, several types of fasteners: straight pendants, connectors like "crab", extensions of profiles.
Drywall sheets are of different types. For repairs with their own hands, two are enough: normal( gray) for standard rooms and moisture resistant( green) for rooms with high humidity.
When choosing profiles and hangers, you need to be very careful. Buy is worth the product from the proven manufacturers, the elements should not be too thin.
As for the frame, it can be wooden, but this design does not apply to wet rooms, and is generally quite heavy.
Sealing tape is used as shown in the photo, in order for the components of the frame to fit tightly to the concrete and serve as a kind of soundproofing.
If it is necessary to finish a wooden ceiling with gypsum boards, then the sheets can be fastened directly to it without a skeleton. This reduces the number of necessary tools, but the surface should be without significant differences in altitude.
Also it is necessary to remember, in due course the tree can be deformed, that can lead to occurrence of cracks on seams.
Marking up the working area of the
framework. Installation of the false ceiling from plasterboard begins with the marking of the ceiling itself. A kind of instruction is placed below.
The first thing you need to determine the lowest angle in the room, it is also worth noting the center of the room. From the bottom corner you need to measure 5-10 centimeters, depending on whether the light sources will be mounted.
Next, you need to put the marks in each corner at the same level as in the first one. For operation it is convenient to use a hydro level or a laser level, as in video.
When the marks are delivered, you can use a device such as a paint line to mark the bottom edge of the frame. On this line, you need to orientate when installing the guide profiles.
Fastening technology is simple: through the finished holes you need to transfer the markings to the wall, there must also be holes along the edges.
If they are not, then you need to do them yourself with your hands at a distance of 10 centimeters from the edge. Further on the marks are drilled holes in the wall.
After applying the sealing tape, the profile on the dowel is fixed to the wall. Each profile must have three dowels.
Then proceed to fixing the main ceiling profiles. Previously, the ceiling should be drawn lines at a distance of 40 centimeters from each other.
Jumper between profiles, with this "thick" lining, can be placed only at the junction of the sheets. Suspensions for ceiling profiles need to be placed evenly and quite often.
The first suspensions need to be fastened at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall. If the wooden ceiling is removed, wood screws are used to fix the profiles, and anchor dowels are used for the concrete profile.
All the steps of attaching the frame to create a single-level ceiling are available in the following video. It also provides instructions for the correct cutting and processing of the edges of drywall sheets.
Video:
When it comes to two-level ceilings, then the technology of work is somewhat complicated. Previously, you need to decide on the future design of the ceiling, draw a sketch in view of the actual size of the room.
It marks the place of joining the profiles, the places of their fastening to the ceiling, the holes for the lighting fixtures. Further on, a scheme of the future design is applied to the ceiling and every level is beaten.
Mounting the frame of a two-level ceiling is often complicated by an unusual form of construction, for example, as in the photo below.
Curved elements can be obtained quite simply by using scissors for metal. To do this, make frequent incisions on the profile and give it the desired shape. In other respects, the scheme of work is the same as for a single-level ceiling.
The whole process is well represented in the next video.
Video:
This video also demonstrates the use of various light sources in the interior: spotlights and a diode tape to illuminate the second level of the ceiling.
If necessary, it is possible to build individual boxes of plasterboard. Sometimes they are used as decorative elements, but more often it is a necessary measure.
The photo shows that with the help of a decorative box after the covering, the beam projecting on the ceiling will hide.
Also the plasterboard boxes can serve for zoning space. A successful example of a division of a studio apartment into a kitchen and a living room is presented in the following photo.
The fastening of a drywall box is even easier to mount multi-level ceilings. The video shows the execution of a curved box. Also, the process of giving round-shaped profiles to one's own hands is well represented.
Video:
How to hide unsightly ventilation pipes inside the box, shown above in the video. It also has information on how to give the sheets of drywall curved shapes with their own hands.
Gypsum plasterboard casing and sealing
The technique of attaching dry gypsum plaster sheets is quite simple. The main thing to remember is that the sheets of material are attached with some displacement relative to each other.
Self-tapping screws should also be staggered in steps of 15-20 centimeters. They can not be placed too close to the edge, it must necessarily remain 10-12 millimeters.
The edges of the sheets need to be cut at an angle in order to simplify the sealing of the seams.
Self-tapping screws should fit into the material at right angles to avoid damage to the cardboard, and the hoods are embedded in the material for a couple of millimeters to simplify the final puttying.
It is well seen how to fasten the screws on the next photo.
Before sealing the seams, it is necessary to soak the sheets with a primer and wait for them to dry. You need to start with the seams near the wall, after that you can take the joints and hats of self-tapping screws.
After drying, the seams are applied to the seams and the top is covered with a layer of putty. Then comes the finish layer. For greater strength of the coating, fiberglass can be used.
