The floor in the garage with your own hands

When constructing a garage, special attention should be paid to the floor. If the surface is damp, give off a lot of dust, can not withstand the load - this will negatively affect the safety of the car. Make a floor in the garage with your own hands in several ways, each of which has its advantages. A concrete base is considered a classic base, but other floor variants are also in demand: earthenware, bulk, wooden and even tiled.

Floor in the garage with your own hands

How to make the earth floor

1 Contents of the article

1 How to make the earth floor

2 Concrete floor

2.1 Step 1. Preparation of the pit

2.2 Step 2. Wall masonry

2.3 Step 3. Waterproofing the pit

2.4 Step4. Floor leveling

2.5 Step 5. Preparation of the

2.6 foundation Step 6. Arrangement of the sand and gravel cushion

2.7 Step 7. Waterproofing the floor

2.8 Step 8. Reinforcement

2.9 Step 9. Installation of the beacons

2.10 Step 10. ForScreed bond

3 Coating of ceramic tile

3.1 Step 1. Preparation of the

3.2 Baseline 3.2 Step 2. Floor tiling

3.3 Step 3. Grouting

4 Filler floor

4.1 Step 1. Preparatory work

4.2 Step 2. Pouring the mixture

5 Wooden floor

5.1 Video - The floor in the garage with their own hands

The cheapest floor - earthen. It does not require financial costs, it has a very simple device, but it has low strength and absorbs moisture very much. Such coverage can be made temporarily, if the budget for construction is very limited. This option is also suitable for those who do not often use the garage, and most of the time is traveling.

The process of equipping the earthen floor is very simple:

, when marking the plot under the foundation, the whole vegetation layer is removed;

Removal of soil inside the garage
after pouring the plinth inner space is cleared and leveled;
with the help of tamping carefully compact the base;

Trimming
when a roof is already mounted in the garage, a layer of thick clay 10 cm thick is poured onto the floor;
carefully tamp the base.

Backfilling and ramming of clay

You can do without clay, but it significantly increases the strength of the floor and provides good protection against moisture.

Concrete floor

Concrete

Concrete screed is the most popular coating in private garages. Such floor withstands very strong and uneven loads, is not afraid of fire, it is resistant to various oils, solvents and gasoline, it is durable. Moist concrete can pull, but the correct arrangement of the floor completely excludes such risks. Although the amount of work is quite large and will require a lot of time and physical effort, the process itself has a simple technology.

Type of concrete floor	Addition Elastobetone-	Reinforcement	Branded strength	Minimum thickness	Entering operation( temperature 20 ° ± 2 ° C, relative humidity 90-100%)
Monolithic concrete slab	-	+	M200-M350	from 100mm	28 days
Concrete floor screed with reinforcement	-	+	M200-M350	from 70mm	28 days
Concrete floors - Bulk topping	+	- / +	M600-M700	from 40mm	7-8 days
Reinforced concrete	+	- / +	M500-M550	from 40mm	7-8 days
Reinforced concrete floors	+	- / +	M400-M500	from 40mm	7-8 days
Concrete floors with fiber( fiber-reinforced concrete)	- / +	- / +	M200-M350	from 40mm	28 days
Concrete mosaic floors	- / +	- / +	M500-M550	from 40mm	7-8 days

Construction stages:

manufacturing of inspection pit;
floor level marking;
ground preparation;
backfill with sand and gravel;
laying of waterproofing;
reinforcement;
floor pouring.

All work is carried out after the completion of the construction of the garage, but before the beginning of the interior decoration of the room.

Step 1. Preparation of a foundation pit

Preparation of a foundation pit

Preparing a foundation pit for further work

The inspection pit is not an indispensable element of every garage;it is only needed by those who repair their car on their own. It should be noted that the pit can not be done on a site where the groundwater table is 2.5 m. The place for it is usually chosen in the center of the room, having receded from the entrance a certain distance.

Having determined the location of the pit, dig a pit. Its parameters:

width 75-80 cm + 30 cm for waterproofing;
depth - the growth of the owner of the garage + 30 cm;
length - vehicle length + 1.5 m.

Waterproofing observation pit

Waterproofing observation pit

On the ground mark the boundaries of the excavation and begin to dig. During operation, care should be taken to ensure that all walls remain as vertical and level as possible. After excavating the soil, compact the floor with a rammer, then pour a thin layer of clay and again rammer. Further, the bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of roofing material, the edges of which are slightly wound on the walls. Over the roofing material pour the concrete mixture to a height of 7 to 10 cm. The top of the concrete is leveled and left to dry. Cover the pit for the time of drying the solution is not necessary.

Step 2. Masonry of walls

Masonry of walls

When concrete in the pit is sufficiently hardened, you can lay out the walls. For these purposes, red brick and blocks of aerated concrete are best suited. Perform the clutch immediately along the entire perimeter, separately you can not put each wall. So, the first row is stacked according to the level, leaving about 15-20 cm between the walls of the foundation ditch and the bricks about 15-20 cm. The cutting solution is immediately removed by the trowel, so that when the pit is finished, it does not have to knock down the frozen concrete.

Ventilation of observation pit

All subsequent rows are laid out with a displacement of vertical seams, which helps to strengthen the walls. In order for the masonry to remain vertical, check the level every 2-3 rows;at a time it is not recommended to build more than 6 rows of bricks. The last row of bricks should be 6-7 cm below the threshold. Subsequently, a metal corner will be laid on the brick walls, which should not protrude above the floor surface.

Subsequently, a metal corner will be laid on the brick walls

inspection pit Step 3.

pit waterproofing After two to three days, the walls of the pit can be waterproofed from the outside. Using a dense roller on a long handle, the brick surface is covered with a primer and allowed to dry. Next, heat the bitumen mastic, and apply the same roller to the walls with a dense layer. Fill the ground with free space behind the walls of the pit after full drying of the mastic. Zabivat emptiness ground should be layered with mandatory ramming, otherwise under the concrete cover the ground will settle, and cracks are formed.

Mastic

Step 4. Floor leveling

Marking is done with a laser or water level, the usual building is not suitable here. If there is a laser level, the entire process will take a few minutes, but the marking with a water level will take more time. For convenience, markup is done at a distance of 1 m from the rough floor, and then transferred to the zero mark. So, first of all, measure 1 m from the threshold and put a mark in pencil. Then one end of the level is attached to the label, and the second to the adjacent wall, where the water level in the tube will show the location of the next mark.

Thus on each of the walls leave 2-3 marks;then from the top beacons measure down 102 cm and also put pencil marks. It remains only to repulse the marking line with a coated cord, and the zero level is determined.

Concrete floor scheme

Step 5. Preparing the

foundation In the process of building a garage, there is an excess of soil and construction debris inside the building. All this must be removed, after which it is additionally to remove another layer of earth to a depth of 30 cm. The depth should be the same over the entire area, so all visible irregularities should be cleaned with a shovel. With the help of ramming, the soil itself is carefully compacted, then a layer of sand and clay 3-5 cm thick is poured, spilled with water and again taken to the rammer. The higher the density of the base, the stronger will be the floor.

Step 6. Arrangement of sand and gravel cushion

Gravel

The thickness of the gravel layer is 10 cm. If the garage is large, it will be difficult to pour in a layer of the required thickness without additional measurements, so you can simplify the task. For this, wooden pegs of the required height are driven into the ground, placing them in even rows. Having fallen asleep gravel to this level, it is necessary to ram it properly, pull out the pegs and fill the voids with the same gravel.

In a small garage you can do it differently: in each corner and in the middle of the walls at a level of 10 cm you need to put a bright label. This technique will help to quickly fill in gravel, without wasting time on measurements. The next layer is sand;it can be fine or coarse, even with an admixture of clay, but without debris and large clods. Sand cushion for more condensation is spilled with water and again rammed. In conclusion, check the base plane with a large building level or rule to avoid the formation of unevenness.

Sand filling

Sand block caving

Sand is poured on gravel with a diameter of 40-50 mm, the thickness of this layer is about 5 cm. The surface is leveled, compacted, covered with a small amount of sand and moistened. Once again rammed, trying not to leave sharp protrusions. In the end, the foundation is poured with lean concrete, the thickness of the layer being 3 cm. Mix the lean concrete in the following proportion:

1 part of cement;
3 pieces of sifted sand;
6 pieces of fine gravel.

This solution has a low strength, but it perfectly level the base under the screed. Concrete poured on rubble, leveled over the entire area by the rule and left to dry.

How to make a rough concrete floor on the ground

Step 7: Waterproofing the floor

When the concrete dries, it is treated with any primer mix. As a waterproofing, special membranes, roll materials, bitumen mastic and liquid rubber are used. Ruberoid, film, membrane spread on the floor, and the edges lead to the walls. Cloths are laid necessarily overlapping 10 cm. Very often, the roofing material is laid directly on the hot mastic, then the canvas is tightly adhered to the base and reliably protects the floor from moisture.

Paint waterproofing

Step 8. Reinforcement

For reinforcement, you need a metal grid with dimensions of 10x10 or 15x15 cm cells. Cook it from a reinforcement with a cross section of 5 mm. The grid is stacked so that between its edges and walls there are about 5 cm. The same distance should be left along the perimeter of the inspection pit. In addition, the mesh should be slightly raised above the surface, so plastic or metal supports 2 cm high are placed under the rods.

Reinforcement

Step 9. Installation of the

Beacons To make the floor perfectly flat, you need to tie up the lighthouses. Such beacons can be metal corners, profile, but it is most convenient to use steel pipes of small diameter, for example, 25 mm. To fix the guides mix a little solution, and the pipes themselves are abundantly lubricated with engine oil. Beacons should be located in even horizontal rows, the distance between which is equal to 1.2-1.5 m. Along the wall on the floor, piles of mortar are thrown every 15 cm and the first pipe is laid on them. With the help of a level, it is exposed horizontally and at the same time leveled at the zero mark. When all the guides are installed, you should check their horizontal line again. For this, the level is laid perpendicular to 2 or 3 beacons.

Installation of beacons

On the perimeter of the garage, it is necessary to leave small gaps between the screed and walls with a width of 1-2 cm and fill them with damper tape. This will help avoid damage to the coating when shrinking the garage. Now it remains to weld the frame from the corners for the inspection pit. The steel corner 50x50 mm is cut into 4 parts according to the size of the pit and welded in the form of a rectangle. The finished frame is primed and dried, and then laid on the brick walls. If desired, you can paint a corner with a surrey - this will be an additional protection against corrosion. Under the weight of the concrete solution, the carcass can be slightly deformed;so that this does not happen, the corners should be strengthened by temporary struts from the bar.

Step 10. Filling the screed

Screed in the garage

First you need to calculate the approximate volume of the solution. To do this, the floor area is multiplied by the height of the screed, which is 5 cm. For example, if the area is 35 sq. M., Then a screed will require at least 1.75 cubic meters of concrete mix. A solution is prepared in a ratio of 1: 3, with cement better to take grades of 400-500, and sand can be replaced by screening.

The solution must be sufficiently thick and homogeneous, so stir thoroughly. The ready mass is poured between the beacons so that the solution covers them, and then the metal rule is carried along the tubes and tightened all unnecessary. The rule must be strongly pressed from both sides and lead evenly, then the surface of the screed is simultaneously compacted and leveled.

Screed from cement-sand mortar in the garage

How to fill the floor in the garage with your own hands

1-2 days after pouring from the screed, you need to carefully remove the guides. Since the pipes were lubricated with oil, this process does not require much effort. The grooves from the beacons are filled with the same solution and leave the surface to dry. To prevent cracking, the floor should be regularly moistened;You can also fill the surface with wet sawdust and spray them periodically with water. Days after 10-12 sawdust is swept away, and the floor dries already in the open state. The complete drying of the concrete screed usually takes about 4 weeks.

Concrete floor in garage

Ceramic tile cover

This option is quite expensive, because high-quality floor tiles are expensive. But this floor looks great, easy to clean, gives out very little dust. Tiles must be purchased with a wear class of at least 5, and if there is no heating in the garage, it is also frost-resistant. Laying is recommended not earlier than 2 years after the construction of the garage, otherwise the coating will deform upon shrinkage.

For work you will need:

primer;
tile adhesive;
ceramic tiles;
notched trowel;
level;
plastic joints for seams;
grout.

Step 1. Preparation of the basis

The tile is laid on a concrete base. If the roughing screed has been damaged during operation, it is necessary to repair all irregularities with cement mortar, clean it of dust and cover with two coats of primer. A good quality screed is simple enough to be primed.

Step 2. Flooring

The adhesive composition is diluted according to the instructions and allowed to stand for 10 minutes. On the back of the tile, apply a piece of glue, the rest on the floor with a notched trowel. Apply the tile to the floor, level and gently press. Between the adjacent fragments insert plastic spacers, which ensure the uniformity of the seams. After leveling, check the tile level to make the floor perfectly smooth. Glue should not fall on the front side of the ceramic, all accidental splashes and smears immediately wipe with a rag.

The process of laying ceramic granite on the floor in the garage

Processlaying ceramic granite on the floor in the garage

The process of laying porcelain stoneware on the floor in the garage

The process of laying ceramic granite on the floor in the garage

The process of laying porcelain stoneware on the floor in the garage

Finished floor

Step 3. Grouting

After laying, wait 3 days and wipe the seams. For this, a special composition based on cement is used. The joints are moistened, and then the working mixture is applied with a rubbery narrow spatula. After filling the seam, the excess is removed with a neat and sharp movement. When the process is completed, give the grout to grasp for half an hour, after which the seams are washed with a damp sponge. Enter the garage by car can be in 2 weeks, when the glue is completely dry and the floor will gain the necessary strength.

Filler floor

Packaging of polymer coating

Filling the floor is expensive, but the advantages of such a coating justify the cost. The service life of the floor is not less than 40 years, it has a very high strength, it is easy to clean, does not burn, has a perfectly flat surface. For the garage, epoxy and polyurethane industrial mixtures are best suited. You can perform the installation yourself, because the filling technology is very simple.

We prepare the surface - we take all the extra

Prepare the surface - take out all the extra

Step 1. Preparatory work

The base of the base is cleaned from dust and close all the cracks. Recesses deeper than 3 cm are also filled with a solution and dried. After that, the floor is treated twice with a primer.

Mix the composition of

Decorative "chips"

Step 2. Pouring the mixture

The floor solution is prepared exactly according to the instructions, otherwise the quality of the coating will decrease. During operation, the temperature in the garage should not be less than 10 and above 25 degrees. If the room is large, the pouring is made in stages, dividing the area into several sections. Align the mixture with a needle roller, carefully removing air bubbles. Drying will take about 20 days, after which the coating is ready for use.

Fill the cover

По ходу заливки рассыпаем "чипсы". Наслаждаемся результатом

In the course of pouring scatter chips. Enjoy the result of

Wooden floor

Floors in wood in garages are very rare. Despite the ease of installation, low cost and environmental friendliness of the material, such coverage is not popular. Even the most dense wood does not withstand loads from the car for more than 5 years. In addition, the wood floor is easily ignited, and in a garage where gasoline, oil and solvent are stored, this is doubly dangerous. If nevertheless there is a desire to make a wooden floor, the installation technology is simple and understandable:

concrete screed is cleaned and primed;
lag bar is treated with an antiseptic and dried;
install lags on concrete in increments of 1, -2 m, fixing dowels at a distance of 50 cm;
lay intermediate lags every 40 cm;
wooden frame covered with waterproofing material;
stuff the boards perpendicularly to the lags.

The boards should be very dense, with a thickness of 40 mm, always dry. To prolong the service life, the floor must be primed, treated with flame retardant and painted.