Assembly and installation of an electrical panel with your own hands

Illustration	Number of modules
	Single-pole circuit-breaker	1 module( 17,5 mm)
	Single-phase two-pole circuit-breaker	2 modules( 35 mm)
	Three-pole circuit breaker	3 modules( 52,5 mm)
	Single-phaseRCD	2 modules( 35 mm)
	Three-phase RCD	4 modules( 70 mm)
	Single-phase differential automaton	2 modules( 70 mm)
	Terminal block for DIN rail	1 module( 17.5 mm)
	Modular power meter	6-8 modules( 105-140 mm)
	Modular socket on DIN rail	3 modules( 52,5 mm)
	Voltage relay	3 modules( 52,5 mm)

The authors strongly recommend not to regret 3 places andmount a modular outlet in the shield. It is necessary in order that during repair work it would be possible to disconnect all the lines and quietly connect the power tool to the shield via an extension cord.

It is also recommended to use a voltage relay that monitors its value on the network. If it goes beyond the normal frame - the relay disconnects the load, and after a certain time again turns it back on. This allows you to keep valuable consumers of electricity demanding for voltage in the network.

Example of calculating the number of places in the electrical panel

For a more complete understanding of the calculation, let's give an example of the scheme and calculate the number of modules in a simple electrical board, the diagram of which is shown in the figure.

An example of a simple circuit diagram of an electrical board

The scheme of a simple flat single-phase board in which an electric energy meter is mounted is presented. The input is made by VVGng cable 3 * 6 mm2.Let's count the number of modules.

• At the input two-pole automatic machine 2 modules.
• Next counter +6 modules, in total 8.
• Two RCDs of +4 places, in total 12.
• Six single-pole machines, means 12 + 6 = 18 places.
• Two zero buses for RCD 1 and RCD 2, means 18 + 2 = 20.

The input zero bus and PE bus are usually included in a set of good flaps, and they are not attached to a DIN rail, but are located on top and bottom of the housing. It turns out that even for a simple flap 20 places are already required. But experts always recommend taking a shield with a margin, in case of adding lines, and that in the shield everything was not clogged "under the string."Therefore, the closest in terms of quantity is a box for 24 seats, or even better for 36 seats.

How to choose a good electric board

After the number of seats it is necessary to decide which type of shield is needed, what design. What kind of people are they at all? According to the installation method, the boards can be:

• hinged panels, that is, they do not need to prepare a special niche for them, but it is simply hung on a wall or pillar with various fasteners: anchors, dowels, screws, screws, everything depends on the base material. If the shield is installed on the street, it should always be hinged, and if it is inside, then with open wiring and in wooden houses.

In wooden houses it is advisable to use electric boards of outdoor installation

• Built-in boards, - for them a niche is prepared in the construction of walls. Such boards are installed only inside the premises and only with concealed wiring.

Built-in electrical panel

For the material of the housing, the electrical panels are divided into:

• Shields with metal housing .They can be both hinged and built-in. The higher strength of the housing gives them certain advantages, especially when installed outdoors. In such shields it is easier to implement an anti-vandal function and to limit the access of young children - you can make a door on the lock. For street electricity meters( SHUE) there are models with a lockable door and a transparent window to read the meter reading.
• Shields with plastic housing .Here there is such a variety of models that the beginner will have to run his eyes. These products can be both hinged and built-in, both intended for outdoor installation, and indoors. A variety of designs will help them fit into any interior. Usually they look more attractive than metal "brothers", but here there can be troubles, as white plastic in some models in a couple of years can turn yellow.

So, we will summarize all of the above and give some advice on choosing an electrical shield:

• First, it is necessary, first of all, to choose a bona fide seller, who can buy absolutely everything: both the switchboard, and all the modular equipment, and all components, and all, which is useful for installation. It is desirable that this was a large store with a rich assortment, long working in the market. Such salespeople value their reputation very much, and they have fewer chances to find counterfeit products.
• Secondly, the manufacturer of the electrical panel is very important. You should never take a lower price. Among the world's most famous brands are: ABB, Schneider Electric, Hager, Legrand, Makel. There are very good models from the Russian manufacturer IEK, and unique in design can be found from the Greek manufacturer Fotka. In this matter it is better to turn to specialists who actually assembled and mounted electrical shields.

Such electrical panels can become an ornament of the interior

• Third, each manufacturer has shields with a rich and poor bundle. You should choose from the rich. What should be a good scute?
  • In a good dashboard, all DIN-rails must be mounted on a frame, which can be easily removed and re-mounted in the shield. This is very helpful when assembling.
  • Arranging and fixing incoming cables.
  • In the shield with a good bundle, there should be working and protective zero buses and places for their installation.
  • Availability of organizers for cables, which will very much help to order the internal space.
  • In good built-in flaps there is a set of fasteners that will help to install them without being embedded in building mixes, which facilitates installation.
• And, finally, the well-known manufacturers always have the opportunity to supplement some of the accessories for the shield: zeros, cross-modules, combs, locks, doors of various colors and more.

How to choose modular equipment in an electric board?

Before the purchase, the electrical switchboard layout has already been drawn up and agreed with the specialists, where all the values ​​of the modular equipment are indicated, but the manufacturer and the accompanying seemingly "inessential" details, which are very useful, are unlikely to be indicated. What are the authors of the article going to say to readers of our portal?

• Electricians with a long history have only a few manufacturers of modular equipment: ABB, Schneider Electric, Hager, Legrand, Merlin gerin. These are world-renowned companies producing high-quality equipment. It does not say that all the others are bad. Simply these are the best.
• All modular equipment is better to take one brand, one series. The fact is that in some manufacturers the width of the module can be 17 mm, the second 17.5 mm, and the third 18 mm. It is invisible on 2-3 automatic machines or RCDs, and in a row of 12 modules can spill out into several millimeters. There may be problems with combing the combs. Yes, and any owner will be pleased to open the flap, see that all the devices are aligned and pleased with one color range.

Electrical panels assembled on modular equipment from the same manufacturer, look very harmonious

• To assemble the shield, you will also need a mounting wire PV1 or PV3( PGV) with a cross section no less than the input cable. In most cases, 4 mm2 or 6 mm2 is enough. A lot of it is not necessary, two or four meters should be enough. From the color scheme, it is better to choose white, black or red for the phase and blue for the working zero. Zero and phase conductors must be separated by color.
• For connection of modular devices it is very convenient to use special combs - one, two or three-pole, - depending on the number of phases of power supply and the layout of the elements in the switchboard. Here, too, the specialist's help will not be superfluous. To combs it is recommended to buy the required number of end caps.

Combination tires save space in the electrical panel and facilitate the installation of the

• . If a group of RCDs are provided in the circuit diagram of the panel, each of them must be provided with a zero DIN rail rail or other places designated for them.
• A good alternative to zero buses are the so-called cross-modules, which are the same bays, only mounted in a common housing and reliably isolated from each other. One cross-module can replace several zero buses, which will save space in the switchboard, making the connection more secure convenient.

Cross-module in an isolated

• enclosure A very useful part is the DIN-rail stop, which does not allow modular devices to "part" around. If there are delimiters along the edges on the rail, then if the row is not completely filled, it will be difficult to keep all the devices in place when assembling, especially when the operation is rather hard PV1 or PV3.
• For unused seats in the shield, the required number of blanking plugs is required so that all the insides of the shield after its final assembly are securely closed.
• To fix the cables and organize the wires inside the flap, plastic ties are necessary, which are never much.

After this you can proceed directly to the installation and assembly of the shield.

Video: Secrets of assembling and selecting automata. Electrical and wiring for repair

Assembly and installation of the electrical switchboard

The electrical panel is a complex and delicate device, so it is best to "stuff" it with the right modular equipment not on the wall of the room where wet, dirty and dusty construction work can go, but in a clean room,on the table, in a relaxed atmosphere. Therefore, we told the readers that it is better to have such a shield with a removable frame with DIN-rails. Then the purely construction work on the installation of the hull will be separated from purely electric, which at a certain stage is very useful.

Assembly of the electrical switchboard

We will consider the installation of the enclosure of the built-in electrical panel, since the installation of the hinged cabinet should not cause any problems, it does not differ from the hanging of the kitchen cabinet or shelf. As an example, we offer the option of mounting the flap in a brick wall, because the installation technologies in any building structures are similar.

It is more problematic to install an electric board in a concrete wall, not only in terms of the laboriousness of the process. First you need to make sure that the wall is not load-bearing. Otherwise, it will be forbidden to do this, since it is forbidden to cut the reinforcement in the bearing walls, or coordination, development of the project, reinforcement of the opening and other not very pleasant and long procedures will be required. A good way out is to build a false wall or a gypsum board protrusion where you can mount the flap and lay all the cables, but it will "eat" about 10 cm of space. This is not critical, especially since it can be combined with some kind of design idea.

First we will consider the rules for the placement of electrical panels.

• Electrical boards should be placed in well-ventilated and lighted rooms, preferably near the entrance to the house or apartment. For these purposes, the halls or vestibules are best suited.
• In the room where the shield is installed, there should be a normal humidity level - up to 60%.
• The distance from the doorways, slopes, corners to the edge of the shield should be at least 15 cm, they must be provided with a constant and free access, it should not interfere with the doors that open. Inside cabinets and wardrobes, electrical shields are prohibited.
• Do not allow gas pipes to pass near the switchboard, as well as flammable substances.
• The height of the electrical panel installation should be from 1.4 to 1.7 meters from the level of the clean floor to its lower edge, but the upper edge should not be more than 1.8 meters from the floor. In any case,

To mount the electrical cabinet body it is necessary: ​​

Illustration	Description of actions
	The layout of the location of the electrical board is drawn: the horizontal line of the bottom and the vertical of one of the lateral sides are drawn using the level.
	To the wall plane is applied the body of the flap without the door and frames, and the bottom and side edges are combined. The body is delineated around the perimeter with a marker.
	With an angle grinder( Bulgarian) with a diamond disc over a stone with a diameter of 230 mm, cuts are made along the perimeter of the niche. The use of protective equipment( mask, respirator, gloves) is mandatory! In this case, it is necessary to ensure that in each corner the disk reaches the middle to its maximum depth. A new disc of 230 mm gives a depth of cut of about 9 cm, which is enough for most of the scutes. Horizontal and vertical cuts are made inside the perimeter of the niche with an interval of approximately 5 cm.
	The perforator with the chisel gradually hollows out the whole inside of the niche. The bottom is leveled. If necessary, a chisel with a hammer is used to work in hard-to-reach places.
	The body of the flap is used in a niche, the depth is checked and the possibility of its alignment horizontally and vertically is checked. If necessary, the niche is brought to the desired size.
	The shield is fitted with the standard, included in the delivery, fastening, then the flap is inserted into the niche, leveled and on the wall marks are made for dowels.
	Punch holes are drilled for fastening, dowels are inserted into them, a flap is attached and fastened with dowel-nails to the wall.
	A frame with DIN-rails is removed from the panel for the subsequent installation of modular equipment on them.
	The cavity between the body of the flap and the niche can be filled with a construction mortar or professional mounting foam.

There are cases when the mounting of the flap does not include fastenings to the plane of the wall. In this case, it is possible to fasten the dowels through the rear wall, usually there are special places for this, which must be drilled beforehand. But, if there is still some space behind the shield in the niche, the main thing is not to overdo it so that the back wall of the shield does not crack. Absolutely acceptable is the method of mounting in a niche on alabaster or any other mortar.

The organization of cable entry into the

electric shield This issue is always given enough attention, although the correct organization of cable entry into the shield will further greatly facilitate the installation of modular equipment and will allow the internal space to be properly organized. It is not without reason that the authors of the article told readers about the acquisition of just good shields, where there are removable covers for cable entry that allow entry even after the flap is installed in a niche.

Removable cable gland cover is a sure sign of a good

board. How is the input in the average electrical billboards done. On the top and bottom of the shield( sometimes in the back) there are usually perforated holes, which can either be squeezed out with a finger or cut with a knife. Usually they are designed for a standard size - under a corrugated tube 16 or 20 mm in diameter. You just need to break the right number of holes and get the cables inside.

For a hinged electrical panel, this is done simply: fastened the shield and methodically one by one winds the cables inside. And what if the flap is built-in? Electricians with experience know what it's like to have at least five monolithic cables in the shield, and then fix the case in a niche for alabaster, and even level up. Work is not for the faint-hearted!

In very bad shields, there is not even a hint of technological holes for cable entry. You have to saw or drill yourself, install special plates and perform other actions that could be avoided if you buy a more expensive but incomparably better shield.

Another problem with cable entry into the shield is its fixation at the entrance to the flap. Passing through the technological holes, the cable has a certain degree of freedom, moving inside more than the hole's own diameter or inside the corrugated tube, and this makes the installation very inconvenient. It is very difficult to organize all the wires inside the shield. Of course, there is a way out of this. In the bar near the place of cable entry, "pile" alabaster, which will hold them. So often they do, unfortunately.

Fixing incoming cables with alabaster is not the best and the modern solution of

. Now consider the most elegant and best way realized in good flaps. In the place of input of cables - from above and from below, - there are special removable plugs or gland plates, they are called differently from different manufacturers. After mounting the flap in the niche, the plate is removed and the cables are quietly turned inside. How it's done?

1. After removal of the plug in the flap, first of all, the input cable is inserted, so that the input point is closest to the input automaton. Usually this is the upper left corner of the flap. If it is in the corrugated pipe, it is cut just before the input.
2. The cable is attached to the comb or to the bar with eyelets( different flaps may be different) and fixed with a plastic tie-clamp. The ends of the screeds are cut with wire cutters.

Fixation of cables at the entrance to a good

• shield With a thin permanent marker, immediately after the cable is inserted into the shield, it is marked in strict accordance with the diagram. If the cable has a dark shell, then it is pulled and seated 1-1.5 cm of a light heat shrink tube and the marking is made on it.
• Similarly, all cables are inserted into the flap and labeled.
• After fixing all the cables, a cap is applied and markers are made on it to mark the minimum depth to make the cut-outs so that it snaps into place. The plug has the most often insect surface and the usual construction knife simply cuts all the excess.

cutting out the cable holes in the removable cover

• The plugs are installed in their place and fastened with screws.

A ready picture of beautifully and correctly inserted in the shield of cables, we can look at the photo. Another plus in the piggy bank shields good manufacturers.

Exemplary organization of the cable entry into the electrical panel

Splitting the cables inside the electrical panel

The second layer of insulation inside the electrical panel is absolutely not needed, therefore it must be removed. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to damage the isolation of the veins themselves. An experienced electrician will be able to cut the cable with a construction knife, but the beginner is necessarily mistaken. Therefore, it is recommended to use a special knife with a heel for this operation. It's not cheap, but it's worth it. If there is an opportunity for someone to ask for a while, then you must use it. If there is no certainty, it is better to ask an experienced electrician to do this crucial operation.

This knife with a heel will very carefully remove the outer shell from any cable

Another important point in this operation is the repeated marking already on the wires. After the cutting in the shield will be such a web of wires that it will be very difficult to understand. Therefore, this operation should be done immediately, so that you do not have to run around with the tester around the house or apartment, swearing and calling lines. For marking the wires is best suited narrow paint tape, which will have to stick to the sites near the end and write a marker on it. Probably, it is not even worth talking about the fact that all markings should be made in strict accordance with the scheme.

When laying electrical wiring, it is always advisable to leave a length at the entrance to the switchboard that is twice as high as its height. That is, they brought the cable into the shield, stretched it through and from the border measured its height again. At first glance, this approach may seem redundant and there is a desire to cut off a piece of cable before cutting. This should not be done in any case! The wires in the shield do not go to the destination by the shortest trajectory, but "move" according to certain rules. If there are scraps - it does not matter. It is much more terrible when the wires are not enough and you have to pull it, do not conduct it like everything or even build it up.

So, how to properly separate the cables?

• The sequence is very important in the trimming. For example, first on top of the shield from the left to the right, and then from the bottom left to right.
• The first cable( usually an introductory cable) is taken, a knife with a heel is placed in its end so that the heel comes under insulation. If this does not work, then you need to squeeze the end of the cable with pliers.
• The knife moves smoothly to the insertion point while keeping the cable tight.

The process of removing the jacket from the NYM

• cable A few millimeters before the marking on the input, the knife is removed from under the shell.
• Beginning at the end, the sheath is separated from the veins to the place where the cut ends and is cut with a sharp edge of the knife.
• Strips of paint tape are cut off and wrapped around wires at 5-10 cm from their end. On these strips a line number is written with a marker.
• All operations are repeated for all cables

As a result, the overall picture after the cutting should look something like this.

Divided and temporarily marked cables in the electrical panel

Protection of the interior of the electrical panel from the repair and finishing works of the

Everyone knows how dusty and dirty are the finishing works and, of course, the electrical panel must be protected. Therefore, we call for mounting the equipment in the shield only when everything has already been completed. It would be insulting when either the putty or the paint gets into the shield and spoils the modular devices, which are in good shield for not one hundred dollars. Even if it does not fall, the high humidity that is present is unavoidable when puttying, painting and wallpapering can also badly affect the precise and thin instruments.

To protect the internal space of the flap, it is necessary: ​​

• The ends of the wires relating to the input cable are securely insulated with caps or two layers of electrical tape. God protects the bereaved.
• If doors have not been removed from the flap, frames and other, they must be removed.
• All the divided wires are gently laid inside the flap. Consistently left-to-right, clockwise or counter-clockwise. In this case, one must avoid sharp bends.
• From a piece of thick cardboard make a cover that tightly closes the inside of the flap, adjust it and glue it around the perimeter with paint tape. Again, in favor of eminent manufacturers, we wish to say that in the sets of their shields there are already such covers.

The inside of the shield is protected by the

cardboard cover. And while all the finishing work is going on, you can slowly begin to assemble the insides of the electrical shield.

Pre-assembly of the electrical panel on the frame of the

The Internet is full of photos and articles about how satisfied electricians are assembling electric boards already installed in their regular places. Arrange the modular equipment and make the commutation between it wire PV1 rather large cross section of 4-6 mm2.And all this happens at a nominal height for the flap height of 1.5-1.7 meters. And around can go plasterers, shpaklevshchiki, painters. I would like to see the face of a satisfied electrician after 2-3 hours of work. The picture will not be so iridescent. Therefore, if a respected reader is told by some source that it is easy to mount electric shields, then do not believe them! This is actually difficult even for specialists. But, the main thing is that it is possible.

Therefore, we once again give advice, even let us repeat it. Buy only good, even more expensive, electric shields. All modular equipment, and the connections between it, must be mounted only in a clean room and on a table. The experience gained with this will greatly help in future to connect all the lines to the shield already mounted on its place.

What tool will be needed?

Illustration	Description	Function
	Dielectric screwdriver set	The kit must be present as a screwdriver with a straight slot, PH, PZ( for tightening wires in the terminal blocks of modular equipment)
	Stripping stripper	For stripping without damage to the conductors, cutting cables(2)
Combination pliers of various sizes, round pliers	For bending wires, various auxiliary works.
	Cutting pliers	Cutting tools for cables and wires
	Hacksaw for metal	For cutting connecting rods
	Tester( multimeter)	For continuity of connections
	Knife construction with a set of replaceable blades	Always and everywhere irreplaceable thing
	Screwdriver with bit set	Needed optional, but it helps a lot in the work of

. Variants of the layout of modular devices in the electrical panel

. Many of its implementations can exist for the same circuit of the electrical board. Every electrician has his preferences in this matter, and here there are neither right nor guilty, every approach has the right to life. Here are two main:

• Linear schema .The first is a load switch or water machine, followed by all the RCDs and differential automatons, and then all the circuit breakers go in order, as shown in the single-line diagram. Such a scheme is most often used, it is easy to implement, since it is easiest to distribute the phase and the working zero to all RCDs and Difa Automata using two-pole combs from a two-pole input circuit-breaker. The drawback of this scheme is only that in the event of a malfunction, it will be more difficult to find a problem line. However, this is easily solved by color-coding groups - each has its own.

Line diagram of the arrangement of RCDs and circuit breakers

• Group circuit .The first is traditionally a load break switch or an input device, and then the circuit breakers are placed as they are shown on a single-line diagram from left to right. If the circuit-breaker is under the "wing" of the group RCD, then the RCD is first placed on the DIN rail, and then all the automata of its group and so on according to the scheme to the last line. Such a scheme is more logically intelligible if some RCD "clicks", then it is possible to quickly sort out the problem by simply disconnecting and sequentially disconnecting them, including the group's nearby automatic machines. The disadvantage of it is that it is more difficult to implement.

Group layout

Principles for mounting modular devices in the electrical panel

Before assembling, several mounting principles should be understood that will help to make everything right:

• All connections between all modular devices, as well as zero busbars in the electrical panel, must be carried out with a wire of the same cross-section as the input cable. For example, according to the project, a cable VVGng 3 * 6 mm2 came to the shield, which means that all connections inside the switchboard should be carried out with a wire of PV1 or PV3 with a cross section of 6 mm2.
• There is an iron rule - the input to all modular devices from above, the output from below. Regardless, some manufacturers release devices that can be connected from below( for example, a Hager RCD).Regardless of whether it is convenient or not. The exception may be those devices that do not have any terminals at the top, for example, a voltage relay.
• If a multi-conductor PV3 wire is used for installation, it is absolutely necessary to use the NSWI tips of the corresponding section. Clamping of stranded wire in the terminals of modular apparatus and tires is prohibited.

Sleeves and Sockets( 2)

• Do not clamp two different wires into the terminal of the modular device. Even if they are the same diameter. If there is a need, for example, to distribute the phase over several devices, then special NSHI tips( 2) are used, which are specially designed so that two stranded wires of equal diameters can be placed under one terminal.
• All commutation must be made only by integral cable lengths.

Advantages of mounting wire ПВ3 before ПВ1

For installation of power circuits inside the panel two main wires are used: ПВ1 or ПВ3, - the first monolithic, and the second multi-strand. Both the one and the other have their supporters and opponents. The main argument of the adherents of PV1 is that it does not need to wear the NSHI tips, as on PV3, before clamping it in the terminal. And on this all arguments end.

If it is necessary to connect two segments of PV1, then it can be done only through the terminal block, and the connection will take two places in it. For the splicing of the PV3 wire, two ends should be placed in the tip of the NSWR( 2), squeezed and placed at least in the terminal block, even at the contact of the modular devices, and this connection only takes one place. It is not possible to place the monolithic wires in the tip of the NSHV type.

Another advantage of the PV3 wire is its increased flexibility compared to the PV1, which gives freedom to maneuver, this wire is much easier to bend, it is much easier to lay it inside the shield. PV3 will withstand much more flexion and extension. Yes, and it will be easier for a beginner to work with this wire. Consider the process of connecting two wires of PV3 for placement under one terminal.

• The tip of the NSHV( 2) is available for wire cross sections from 0.5 to 16 mm2, but we should be interested in the most common dimensions in household electric boards: 4, 6 mm2 and very rarely 10 mm2.The designation NSHVI( 2) 6-14 means that this tip compresses two stranded wires with a cross-section of 6 mm2 each, and a figure of 14 - how long the wires should be stripped. For crimping, there is a special tool - press pliers, or as it is called electricians - crimper.
• To connect two wires in the tip of the NSWR( 2), they must be cleaned from the insulation by the length of the
• sleeve. Place two wires in the sleeve at the same time. The wide skirt of the NSHV tip( 2) will tell you how to orient the wires. Gently push the tip onto the wires until it stops.
• Place the tip in the crimper and crimp it. If there is no crimper, then you can do it with a WS-04A type KVT stripper, which has special protrusions on the handle for crimping the tips. However, at one time it will not be possible to do this, as he presses the tip at one point. Therefore, it will be necessary to make at least two or three points. Given that the tip is clamped into the terminal, proper contact is guaranteed.

In this way, without violating any rules, you can very beautifully branch a zero or a phase, and this will not be a loop, since both wires are clamped under one sleeve. If it is necessary to make several branches, then under one sleeve of NSHV "push" three wires is no longer necessary. For this, there are the same cross-modules.

Video: Crimping of wire with ferrules

Mounting and commutation of modular devices

	According to the previously prepared scheme, modular devices are arranged in series. First, the load breaker or the circuit breaker replacing it, then the voltage relay( if it is provided), then the RCD, then the differential automatons, then the circuit breakers. Working zero buses( or cross-module) from group RCDs should be positioned at the bottom of the shield at some distance from the circuit breakers.
	Series of modular equipment must be fixed to the DIN-rail with special retainers( stoppers), to avoid their "creep" on the rail. If there is equipment standing at an interval from the other, then it is fixed from two sides.
	After checking the correct placement of equipment and matching the ratings on all modular devices, the screws of all the clamping terminals are released.
	Places where single-pole and bipolar bus-combs will be used. Combs are tried on, marks are made on them, and then the required length is cut along the metal hacksaw. The ends are necessarily closed with plugs, which are better to paste, as they can jump off at the most uncomfortable moment. It should be noted that for one, two and three-pole tires, the combs are different.
	For the convenience of connecting the combs to the power wires, it is best to use universal input terminals, which provide more tight contact. It is desirable that the comb and the terminal are of the same manufacturer or they must be individually selected. It is possible to clamp the combs in the terminals of modular devices in conjunction with a solid wire or stranded with an NRTI tip.
	If universal input terminals are used, they are placed in the gap between the comb and the terminal of the modular device and the terminal is clamped with a PLZ slot screwdriver. In all places where the combs are put input terminals. All connections are tightened.
	From the phase output( the lower contact) of the input circuit-breaker( or circuit-breaker), it is necessary to "distribute" the phase to its intended purpose. These are RCDs and differential automata and circuit breakers, the lines of which are not protected by the RCD.For this purpose, the required lengths of wire are measured so that the wire perpendicularly enters the terminal clamp, describes the loop no more than half the distance between rows of modular devices, passes behind the DIN rail to the destination.
	If necessary, the two wires are co-pressurized by the NSHI tip( 2) and placed under the terminal of the modular device. Also, the phase can be taken from any place under the comb.
	The working zero is taken from under the output terminal( from below) of the input automaton and is distributed by the blue wire to the input zero terminals of all RCDs. One end of the zero wire is left free to be connected to the main bus of the working zero when assembling the electrical panel.
	Zero outputs of group RCDs are connected by a blue wire to their corresponding zero buses or to a cross module. The wires are similarly driven to the DIN rail. If the wires pass several, then they can be tightened in some places with a plastic collar.
	In the absence of the comb tires, the phase and the working zero can be distributed to the devices by means of self-made combs of lengths of the PV3 wire of the corresponding color, paired by the NSHV tips( 2).
	All connections except those that are not yet used are tightened with a force screwdriver with PLZ slot or screwdriver with the corresponding bit. The correctness of the installation and the conformity of the ratings of the modular apparatuses are carefully checked.
	The input circuit breaker is supplied with a cable cut-out with a plug. The introductory machine is switched on, and then all the RCDs are in order. The "test" button checks their operability. If necessary, faulty RCDs are replaced.
	Multimeter checks the presence of voltage at the input terminals of the circuit breakers, and when they are turned on and at the output.
	All modular devices are switched off, the shield is disconnected from the mains.
Illustration	Process description

The turn of the most interesting and skilled work has come - the direct assembly of the electrical panel. By this time everything has to be prepared: a detailed scheme has been drawn up, which must always be at hand, necessary equipment and materials are purchased, a workplace is prepared - clean and well-lit. At once you need to think about garbage collection, as it will be a lot in the form of small scraps, removed insulation and another. For this, a bucket, set near the feet, is suitable. Let's describe the process of mounting modular devices.

Is there a voltage monitoring relay?

Unfortunately, the quality of electrical energy does not always meet the accepted standards. Probably everyone knows the so-called jumps and dips of tension. This may damage household appliances. If, with increasing voltage to unacceptable values, consumers of electricity can simply burn out, then when the reduction is not able to start the electric motors, so the current in the windings increases to high values, which leads to burnout of the windings. This is at best, and at worst can lead to a fire. Why the voltage in the network can change to unacceptable values, because it is known that power plants produce energy with the right parameters. There are several reasons for this:

• In overhead power lines, when a phase conductor breaks and closes with a zero operating voltage, the line voltage between phase and zero can rise to 380 volts, which will result in equipment failure.
• A neutral fault( N) or zero burn is a common occurrence. The fact is that in the three-phase networks, the largest current flows through the zero conductor-it is equal to the sum of all the currents in the phase conductors. In this case, the electric current begins to flow not between the phase and zero, but between the two phases - through consumers of different phases. The voltage between the two phases is not 220, but 380 Volts, which leads to damage to equipment. Experienced electricians know of cases when the household appliances burned out at the whole entrance.
• When the house is removed a considerable distance from the transformer substation, the voltage can drop to critically low values.
• If a powerful consumer is connected to one of the phases( for example, a welding machine or some power tool), this can lead to a so-called phase skew, when the voltage at one of them drops to critically low values. That is why even at the design stage, the load is maximally evenly distributed over the phases.

The voltage control relay does not change the power supply parameters, for this there are more complicated and bulky devices - voltage regulators, which simply can not fit in the electrical panel. The task of the voltage relay is to constantly monitor the voltage of the supply network and, in the event of exceeding the established limits, instantly disconnect the load, saving expensive equipment from failure.

Voltage control relay of various modifications

The voltage monitoring relay consists of two main parts assembled in one compact housing. It is a microprocessor controller that constantly monitors the voltage in the network and the power execution part - a powerful electromagnetic relay that turns on and off the load. What are the parameters for selecting a voltage control relay?

• First, the most important indicator is the response time when the thresholds are exceeded and when the voltage thresholds are lowered. When the voltage rises, the actuation is usually faster - about 0.02 seconds. When the voltage is lowered, the operation is slower - about 1 minute, but at critical drops( less than 120 volts), the operation will also be rapid. During this time, consumers of electricity will not have time to fail.
• Secondly, the voltage relay must be selected according to the rated current of the load, it must correspond to the power of the connected consumers. These devices are produced at standard values ​​of 10, 16, 20, 25, 32, 40, 50 and 63 Amperes. If you plan to connect a more powerful load, which is very rare in everyday life, then a modular contactor of the appropriate current rating must be used in conjunction with the voltage relay.
• Thirdly, it is better to select a voltage relay where it is possible to adjust the minimum and maximum threshold of operation, as well as the delay time of switching on. This will fine-tune the device for specific consumers. For example, appliances such as a refrigerator or air conditioner should be restarted only after a few minutes. Frequent on and off will quickly disable them. That is why on the voltage relay the delay time can be adjusted from 5 seconds to 10-15 minutes. As soon as the voltage in the network is set to the correct limits, the relay will count the set time and turn on the load.
• Fourth, there are single-phase and three-phase voltage relays. But here, readers need to be warned that three-phase relays are advisable to use only in cases where there is a real three-phase load in the form of air conditioners, machines with a three-phase drive and other consumers. If one of the phases "pusadet" at least 30%, the three-phase relay will honestly work and turn off all phases, although 95% of the load is single-phase devices. That is why it is advisable to use three voltage relays - one for each phase. It's more expensive, but more reliable.
• And, finally, it is better to choose such a relay voltage, which has voltage indication, and on some models of current and even power consumption. This is very convenient, because you can visually monitor the operation of the device and monitor the parameters of the electrical network.

The voltage relay is connected very simply - it is fed to input zero and phase, and the output is only phase, that is, the built-in relay commutes only the phase. The connection diagram in the electrical panel is shown in the figure. On some models, zero is through, which is very convenient for switching inside the electrical panel.

Wiring plan

The option of connecting the voltage relay in the apartment electrical panel is presented in the following video.

Video: Connecting the voltage monitoring relay

What are unswitched lines in the electrical panel?

Let's imagine a situation where the owners of an apartment or a house gathered at a resort and nobody will be home for a week. Naturally, for safety reasons it makes sense before leaving just to take and turn off the input load break switch or circuit breaker. Voltage from all lines will be removed, housing will be completely de-energized. And what if there were food left in the refrigerator? And what if the apartment or house is equipped with burglar alarm and a video surveillance system? It is, of course, possible to disconnect all unused lines with circuit breakers and RCDs and leave only the required ones. But it is very inconvenient, and the protection modules "do not like" when they are often turned on and off.

Another line that it is desirable not to disconnect is the lighting of the hallway or vestibule - the room where the electric board is installed. Few people will be pleased on arrival to go into the dark hallway and to touch the electric shield to turn it on. Much better, when immediately at the entrance there is a switch or even a motion sensor.

There is certainly a way out of this situation. For this purpose, a separate group of unconnected consumers of electricity is allocated and in the switchboard it is made to branch before the input load break switch or circuit breaker. Naturally, this group should be protected by its RCD and automatic weapons. Then, when you turn off the input, there will still be those lines that are needed all the time. About how this is implemented in practice is told in the next video.

Video: Non-isolated lines in the electrical board

	First of all, you need to take care of safety - to exclude the supply of voltage through the input cable. Hang out the appropriate sign, close the door of the registration board to the lock, disconnect the cable from the access panel or the control panel.
	The protective cardboard is removed from the shield, all the wires are carefully removed, straightened and bent upward or downward( depending on where the cables come from to the shield).If any building materials have fallen into the internal space, then it is cleared.
	The frame with DIN rails and mounted modular equipment is carefully inserted into the flap and fixed with screws.
	The main working zero bus( N) and the safety zero bus( PE) are fixed to the nominal locations. If the cables from the shield go up, the PE bus is mounted at the top, if down, then down, so as not to pull the protective zero wires through the entire shield. If space permits, the main bus of the working zero is mounted side by side, and if not, then on the opposite side of the shield. If the shield body is metal, then the N bus is fixed through the insulator.
	All wires are distributed in bundles: phase( L) in one beam, zero work( N) in the other and zero protective( PE) in the third. At distribution it is necessary to achieve, that different wires as little as possible intersected with each other. Bunches of bundles are fastened with plastic ties-clamps. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that marking does not fly off the ends of the wires. The
	Safety ground wire is routed to the PE bus. If space in the shield allows, you can make a small loop - for the stock in case of further re-installation. Before and after the bends, as well as with an interval of 5 cm, the bundle is strengthened by ties.
	The protective earth conductors are connected in series to the PE bus. At the same time, the sequence is the same as on a single-line electrical switchboard. First, the PE wire of the input cable is connected to the large terminal, and then all groups of consumers. The excess ends of the wire are cut off. The wires are ground with a stripper for 10 mm, the stranded wires are pressed by the tip of the NSHV.
	After cutting the safety zero wire before clamping it in the bus terminal, it must be marked. This is best suited for this special cable markers, but they can be replaced with a heat shrinkable tube with a thinly marked line number.
	If the case and the door of the switchboard are metal, they are connected by a piece of yellow-green wire through special terminals to the protective zero bus.
	In the working zero wire beam, those that are to be connected to the zero bus of the group RCD are selected. A separate bundle is formed, which is strengthened by screeds and is carried out from the left or right side of the shield( depending on the location of the bus of group RCD).All turns are made by a smooth curve at 90 °.The wires are cut off, cleaned, marked, if necessary crimped by a tip and connected to the corresponding bus.
	Zero wires that do not belong to a group RCD are supplied with a beam to the main zero bus and connected to its terminals in order of priority. Similarly, the marking is made. The zero output of the input load break switch is connected to the same bus.
A bunch of phase wires is laid on the opposite side of the shield from zero. If the design of the shield allows, then it is worthwhile to use special organizers for the cable. In the rows between the modular equipment from the beam, branches are made to connect( according to the diagram of the shield) the phase conductors to the corresponding terminals of the modular devices. Bunches and branches are strengthened by screeds.
	Phase conductors are fitted to the corresponding terminals of circuit breakers and differential automatons, the excess is cut off. The wires are labeled, if necessary, crimped with NSHV tips and clamped in the terminals.
	The upper terminals of the input load break switch( or circuit breaker) are connected to the phase and the working zero of the input cable.
	It is checked according to the scheme of the correct installation, the conformity of the marking. All terminals are clamped with a force of 0.8 Nm.
Illustration	Process description

The final installation of the electrical panel. Connecting the consumer groups

After preliminary assembly of the board and checking its working capacity, it's time to mount it in its original place - a niche in the wall and connect all the outgoing lines of consumers. To do this, wait until the end of all the "wet" processes in construction or repair. The assembly and switching process is presented in the form of a table.

Commissioning of

After complete assembly of the electrical panel, all modular devices must be turned off and then you can start the commissioning. What should I do with this?

• Before testing the switchboard, all wiring devices - sockets and switches, and also fixtures should be mounted. On all dedicated lines of powerful consumers, the load must be connected to the sockets.
• The voltage is applied to the input of the electrical board, the presence of the voltage at the input and the correspondence of the phase and zero are checked by a multimeter.
• All RCDs and differential automatons are connected in series, then the "Test" button checks their operability. After that they are switched on again.
• The multimeter checks the presence of voltage at the input terminals of the circuit breakers.
• All circuit breakers are sequentially switched on and the presence of voltage at their output terminals is checked.
• The powerful load is switched on consistently: a washing machine, a dishwasher, air conditioners, cooking surfaces and other electricity consumers. The work of the electrical board is monitored. There should be no sparking, strong heating of the modular apparatus, the emission of smoke.
• All voltage lines are checked for voltage.
• The operation of the lighting lines is checked.
• In an open form, the electrical panel should be allowed to work for several hours and constantly monitor its operation.

If the tests of the electrical board were successful, then it can be closed with a plastron( cover), the frame is mounted and the door is hung. All empty places in the plastron must be closed with special plugs - all the insides of the shield must be hidden.

The plugs should be ordered together with the

electrical panel. Further, the plastron must be marked. In the sets of electrical panels, there are usually stickers on which you can write the line number and its purpose, but we advise you to make them yourself by printing your own tags on the color printer that can be glued to the plastron on a double-sided scotch and protected from above with transparent tape. It is recommended to make also a color marking of different lines, then it will be easier to navigate in the electrical panel.

Example of self-made marking of modular devices

If the door of the switchboard is opaque, then it is recommended to glue the electrical board on its inner side. In some models of well-known manufacturers, there are special spring clips on the doors.

Operation of the electrical switchboard

The electrical panel is not such a device that "installed and forgot" about it, it requires periodic attention. So, what do you need to know when operating an electrical switchboard?

• A month after the start of operation, open the plastron and tighten all the terminals.
• If there are small children in the house or apartment, it is better to lock the door and keep the key in a place that all adults know about.

Many electric switchboard manufacturers can order locks on the door of the

• All occupants of the apartment or house should be instructed on the rules for the operation of the electrical panel and what to do in case of protection devices.
• Each month, it is necessary to check the operation of the RCDs and differential automata. This is best done when all consumers of electricity are off.

Conclusion

The installation and assembly of an electrical panel is one of the most difficult stages of replacing the wiring or laying it "from scratch."Usually this work is performed only by the most qualified and experienced electricians, but readers of our portal, after reading this article, were convinced that in this work nothing is impossible. We need only a thoughtful approach, studying the theoretical part and following all instructions. What advice the authors would like to give to the readers.

• At the stage of line distribution, design of the circuit board, choice of model and configuration with the necessary equipment, one can never neglect the advice of specialists. This can be done both in real life in an experienced electrician, and in the virtual space - on the Internet there are many forums where specialists will gladly give advice.
• All components must be purchased only from trusted vendors, only well-known brands, and we must try to ensure that all the modular equipment is the same manufacturer and one series.
• The assembly of the electrical panel is best done not on the wall, but on the table. The final installation and switching of all outgoing lines must be done after finishing the room.
• There is never a lot of space in the electrical panel. It is better to buy shields with a good supply of seats.
• When assembling the shield, you do not need to rush anywhere and try to do it with the same speed as experienced masters. Each action must be approached thoughtfully.

Reliable and safe you electric wiring!

Video: Building a Power Shield( with process description)

Video: Overview of the electrical panel of the apartment