How to make and how to fix wooden steps for stairs?

Wooden stairs for stairs in the house are always in high demand.

There are several reasons for this:

• You can mount the steps with your own hands without resorting to the services of masters;
• The manufacture of steps from wood is simple, and all the nuances are based on the calculation of dimensions;
• Wood is an eco-friendly material;
• The service life of wooden steps is decades, even on the street;
• Restoration of the stairs is very fast - they have changed the stage and are ready.

But here's the question: how to make and fasten wooden steps with your own hands? In this text we will solve all the nuances that are worth knowing and we will describe the manufacturing instructions with our own hands.

Types of steps

Before we start making our own hands, you need to understand all the nuances of technology, the requirements for the steps, perform calculations( sizes and attachment points), learn about the types.

There are 3 types:

1. Direct: from the name it follows that this view is a rectangle from a whole tree array. On what it is necessary to pay attention: the height of the riser and the width of the stage itself. They need to be selected so that the step is not low and it is comfortable to go up and down;
2. Corner: the second type is needed if the staircase in the house has a turn. This stage is performed in the form of a wide blade, and a large area - it serves simultaneously as a turning point;
3. Zabezhnye: needed only for a spiral staircase. In form, it is an incorrect trapezoid, the inner side is smaller than the outer side. What you should pay attention to: the calculation of the inner side should be such that the ladder track is uniform, without slopes, the distance between the steps should be the same. The calculation is incorrect if the overhang of the board over the riser exceeds 5 cm.

Wooden steps for stairs are easy to make by yourself, any shape under the ladder on any frame, even to the second floor and above.

It is worth taking into account the general, recommended requirements for geometry and installation, which should not be ignored, as well as the recommended calculation - the size of the board, the location for fastening.

Requirements for the steps from the

wood The requirements are a lot and you need to consider all of them, which in the end, when made by yourself, will give you an exemplary ladder.

Let's analyze them in detail:

• The most important requirement is to choose the appropriate ratio "width-height steps / step depth".The average, widely used figure is in the range from 16 to 25 cm. If you overstate the width of the step, then lift the board higher than the one you set, the staircase will become steeper;
• Dimensions: width between 80 and 100 cm, width from 35 to 50 cm, height of the riser - 15-20 cm;
• The steps must be either solid wood or glued wooden lamellas;
• The thickness of the riser is usually between 15 and 20 mm;
• When speaking about the draft, take into account the recommended sizes: length from 80 to 120 cm, width from 18 to 20 cm, thickness - 2 cm;
• The board must be perfectly dried and covered with an antiseptic, have hydrophobic protection, otherwise it will creak if it is saturated with water;
• Painting with varnish is the right way to fall. You can stick a special anti-slip tape, which will look unpresentable. To prevent falls, the board should be covered: carpet, non-slip linoleum, polyurethane, rubber / rubber.

Practical instruction

It's time to make wooden steps with your own hands. We will go through 3 stages: we will perform the calculation, we will make the steps, after they are assembled.

Video:

Step 1 - Calculation of

The calculation is performed taking into account two values ​​- the height of the step( between 15 and 22 cm) and the depth( the distance from the riser to the edge of the tread is 25-40 cm).

Using the raised steps, you can increase the depth of the tread, and the length of the staircase will remain the same.

The dimensions may be different, but they must fit into the formula: the sum of the tread and the value of the riser multiplied by two must be in the range between 60-65 cm.

The width varies from 80 to 100 cm. The width increases to 150 cm if the movementon it will be intense. The thickness of the tread usually has a ratio with the width of the step as 1:20.

If the width is 100 cm, then the thickness should be at least 5 cm. If you impose a board on the finished base, the thickness can be reduced by 1 cm. The thickness of the riser is in the range from 18 to 25 mm.

Now we need to calculate the number of steps for the entire ladder:

• Height "floor 1 - floor 2" divide it into a height of one step;
• The height is the distance from the floor to the floor( the second floor - primarily the thickness of the floor);
• Alternatively, you can scale the existing ladder, each floor to millimeter paper, after determining the width of the tread.

Stage 2 - we make steps from wood

We buy a planed board from beech, oak, ash, maple - on a choice( quantity choose from condition 1 square meter of a board on 2 steps).The board must already be dried.

If you fix a wet board, then eventually it will deform, moreover, the ladder with a wet board is always creaking.

For the manufacture of steps with their own hands you will need tools:

• circular for the board;
• grinding machine;
• edge milling cutter.

The steps are produced by their own hands quite simply:

1. We execute the templates according to the calculated sizes( see the photo);
2. We cut out the risers and treads( the number is calculated in all steps);
3. All received blanks are covered with parquet varnish.

"And what is the difficulty?" - you ask. And the complexity lies in the installation.

Stage 3 - mounting

The mounting of the board on the ladder can be done in one of the following 3 ways:

• To the oblique;
• To the string;
• Through the pain.

Each of the ways has its own nuances( see photos):

Kosoura:

• Joining on the grooves( where the step will be, the depth of the groove is cut out);
• With screws, flush with the surface without protruding hats;
• With the installation of a triangular support rail, which is mounted on self-tapping screws.

Bowstring:

- Joining in the groove: the groove is made deep, the grooves must be glued;
- Metal corner on self-tapping screws - acts as a support;
- Installation on bars - similar to the metal corner option, also on self-tapping screws.

Of great importance is the type of ladder.

If you have a metal ladder:

• Mounting is carried out by means of holes with a pitch of 15 cm and an indentation from the edge by 2 cm;
• Welding of metal parts of the ladder can be uneven, because glue with a filling effect is used in the places of misalignment. Also, place a plywood backing between the stair parts, adjusting the height difference. A metal ladder with wooden steps should be perfectly flat in all planes;
• Clamps fix the tread with plywood, fix with screws;
• The tree should hide all metal - the stairs will be more beautiful, hiding the metal base;
• On top, we cover the wood with parquet varnish.

Metal ladder with wooden steps looks solid, beautiful, and its base is not visible.

The last step of the stairs to the second floor is fixed so that it stands alone, or instead of it acts a floor cloth.

Video:

The second floor, the ends of his canvas need to be drilled, insert one big support in them, put it on the screws and after fixing.

If you have a concrete staircase

A staircase made of concrete is rare, although it is not always beautiful externally, but it's good that stairs do not make concrete from the second floor.

Wooden steps are the only reasonable way to give a concrete staircase a divine appearance.

A concrete staircase must not have any height differences, so level the surfaces with a perforator or a grinder with a diamond disc.

Video:

Mounting on a concrete ladder is done as follows:

• Works are carried out only on absolutely flat and dry surfaces;
• Glue sheets of plywood - it will serve as a moisture barrier. The plywood is glued with mastic and fixed with dowels( see photo);
• We put the board: for the correct joint we cut the grooves in both parts, which are to be fixed.
• Installation is carried out from the first riser, goes from bottom to top;
• The riser is fixed with bolts: screw it into its rear surface( the number is 4-8 pieces), cut off their caps, and drill holes in the places of the supposed fastenings. Fill them with epoxy resin, put the riser;
• To fix the plywood on top of the plywood, followed by a tread with an already attached riser and so on.;
• We load all the boards and wait until the glue comes. The staircase is completed.

The installation of street staircases takes place in a similar way. After all work on the street it is desirable to cover the board with paint / enamel / reliable varnish.

Street ladders should also be covered with non-slip material.