Brick is a multifunctional building stone of an artificial origin with the help of which it is possible to build almost anything. Perhaps, this is the most popular building material, without which there is no improvement of any suburban area.
Tools and equipment
Article content
- 1 Tools and equipment
- 2 How to prepare a solution
- 3 How to lay the brick correctly?
- 3.1 How to correctly lay corners
- 3.2 Video - Laying of corners
- 3.3 Joint types
- 3.4 Base masonry
- 4 Expert advice from specialists
- 4.1 Video - Correct brick laying
With brickwork, the following is mandatory:
- trowel for applicationsolution on brick;
- hammer-pick, with which the products will be podeshesyatsya;
- additional tools, which include a cord, plumb line, level and so on.
How to prepare a solution
For brick laying, a conventional concrete mortar made of cement and sand in the proportion of 1 to 5-6 is used. A mortar is needed to strengthen the masonry and glue the individual bricks together. Sometimes clay or ordinary detergent powder is added there - this increases the ductility and fluidity, but it is forbidden to use it for hollow objects, since the solution will leak into the slits, which will negatively affect the thermal insulation properties of the material.
To prepare the mortar, it is necessary to first mix the dry cement with sand, and then dilute with water as needed.
Please note! It is undesirable to mix more than 50 liters at a time, since the solution is consumed slowly. It is better to take a small amount of dry mixture and dilute it with water.
But if you plan to perform a large amount of masonry, and to work involved several builders, it is more appropriate to use a concrete mixer. Also note that it is recommended to use cement "three hundredth" or "four hundred" brand.
How to lay the brick correctly?
After the mortar is prepared, you can start directly laying.
Masonry dimension | Length, L | Width, V | Height, N | Number of bricks without thickness mortar, pcs. | Number of bricks taking into account thickness mortar joint 10 mm, pcs. |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 m cu. Brick masonry single | 250 | 120 | 65 | 512 | 394 |
1 m cu.brickwork thickened | 250 | 120 | 88 | 378 | 302 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in polkirpicha( thickness of laying 120 mm) | 250 | 120 | 65 | 61 | 51 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in polkirpicha( thickness of laying 120 mm) | 250 | 120 | 88 | 45 | 39 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in one brick( masonry thickness 250 mm) | 250 | 120 | 65 | 128 | 102 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in one and a half bricks( masonry thickness 380 mm) | 250 | 120 | 65 | 189 | 153 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in one and a half bricks( masonry thickness 380 mm) | 250 | 120 | 88 | 140 | 117 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in two bricks( masonry thickness 510 mm) | 250 | 120 | 65 | 256 | 204 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in two bricks( masonry thickness 510 mm) | 250 | 120 | 88 | 190 | 156 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in two and a half bricks( masonry thickness 640 mm) | 250 | 250 | 65 | 317 | 255 |
1 sq. m.m masonry in two and a half bricks( masonry thickness 640 mm) | 250 | 250 | 88 | 235 | 195 |
How to properly lay corners
If you saw how a professional mason works, you probably noticed that he starts working with the removal of corners. Initially, each of the corners should be withdrawn one by one, while their height should slightly exceed the height of the middle sections of the walls. For this purpose, beacon-rappers are used, through which the cord is stretched - it will indicate the height and level of the masonry. It is necessary to tighten the cord as tight as possible so that it does not hang during operation. Moreover, it is necessary to carry out periodic re-laying by brick-beacons.
To form rectangular corners, it is necessary to use the so-called order - a special device representing a flat iron square. On the order, you can make marks along the lines of laying. The first two or three bricks must be laid with the help of a rule, after which the order is established by means of staples. To make the vertical position, use a plumb line. On the marks made on the order, the cord-pier is held.
Please note! Experienced masons do not like to use the order, preferring the withdrawal of corners "by eye" and considering this tool as the lot of extremely inexperienced masters. But if you are engaged in bricklaying for the first time, then you can not do without order.
Video - Laying corners
Seam types
After laying corners in several rows, pull the cord between them( corners) and put the grout on the foundation. After that you need to proceed to the main masonry. To understand all the nuances, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with at least the main types of masonry seams.
screed There are several such seams, the most common of which are given below.
- Bottom hole - the solution in this case does not protrude above the surface of bricks;there are small gaps that will be used when plastering. Plaster will fade in the gap between the products, so it will hold well.
- Convex seams perform a purely decorative function. To form them, a piece of a rounded pipe, cut along.
- The function of the concave seams of the is also purely decorative, but a conventional, uncircumcised pipe is used for shaping.
- With the undercut of the , the slots are filled completely and aligned with the surface of the bricks. Such masonry is used mainly for smooth surfaces( stoves, fireplaces, chimneys) to avoid the accumulation of soot, less often - as decorative.
Basic masonry
So, after removing corners in several rows, you need to start the main masonry. In the future, as the erection of the corners will rise. After forming corners on the foundation, a layer of mortar is applied, and a cord is stretched between them. Stretching should be extremely tight, to avoid problems with the evenness of the masonry. The solution is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it( brick) is placed close to the corner. Similarly, all subsequent bricks are placed.
Please note! The cord should only be pulled over the top level of the bricks.
For a more snug fit, more mortar is put on the walls, after which each brick is taped with the end of the trowel and leveled by the cord level. The mortar that came out is selected by the trowel. Of course, if you perform the clutch for the first time, then the first few rows will have to be shifted anyway, but in a day or two the work will go faster.
Practical advice from specialists
- After every five or six rows, the reinforcement mesh is laid.
- Bricks should be tied up, that is to exclude coincidence of seams of adjacent rows.
- Before laying, every brick is immersed in water for better solution adherence.
- If you are engaged in laying for the first time, then start with primitive structures( steps, columns, etc.).After such a training phase it will be easier to lay out more complex designs - summer kitchen, for example, or brazier made of bricks.
- After preparation of tools and consumables it is desirable to conduct a so-called dry laying( without the use of a solution) in order to identify possible flaws. If everything is normal, then you can start laying on the solution.
- For the first experience, the front brick( it has a smooth side) or a brick-chocolate( with excellent decorative properties), the size of which is slightly smaller than usual, will be the most suitable. And on the contrary, you can use a rough brick, which looks like a natural stone.
- Before you proceed directly to the masonry, you need to make a detailed plan, which will be drawn all the rows of bricks. This will avoid unnecessary costs, since brick is a very expensive material. The dimensions of the bricks are as follows: 6.5x12x25 cm. In calculations, another 10% over the required amount should be thrown, since the fight is inevitable( especially if the masonry is performed for the first time).
And remember the main thing - do not hurry. First, put the brick dry, as we already talked about, then apply the mortar and proceed to the masonry, tapping each product with the end of the trowel, so that it takes the right position. The mortar that protrudes outwards must be removed with a trowel and thrown back into the bucket.
It's not worth hurry while working with a solution, it's not a "Moment", which seizes in a few seconds. You will have enough time to experiment with stacking, remove and put mortar, turn bricks in one direction or another - in a word, make it perfect. After acquiring the appropriate skills, you will be able to get the right amount of mortar on the trowel from the first time and immediately place the brick in the required place. So the masonry procedure will be performed much faster.
Description Average density, kg / m3 Porosity,% Brand of frost resistance Strength grade Color Solid brick 1600-1900 9 15-50 75-300 red Brick padded 1000-1450 6-8 15-50 75-300 from light brown to dark red Bricks hollow "super efficient" 1100-1150 6-10 15-50 50-150 shades of red Brick facing 1300-1450 6-14 27-75 75-250 from white to brown Brickslitsovochny glazed or engobed 1300-1450 6-14 27-75 75-250 any
Bricks parameters | Hyper-pressed brick | Clinker brick | Silicate brick | Ceramic brick |
---|---|---|---|---|
Compressive strength, kg / cm² | 150-300 | 300-500 | 75-200 | 100-175 |
Frost resistance, cycle | 75-150 | 50-100 | 35-50 | 15-50 |
Moisture absorption,% | 6-8 | Less than 6 | 6-12 | 6-8 |
Thermal conductivity, W / m ° C | 0.7-0.8 | 0.7 | 0,3-0,7 | 0,3-0,5 |
Weight at the size of 250х120х65., Kg. | 4 | 3-4 | 3.8 | 3,5 |
And as a conclusion - thematic video.