Mounting the siding with your own hands

Siding is an excellent material for facing the house. At its affordable cost, it has many positive operational and technical characteristics.

You are offered detailed instructions for the independent installation of the siding. The manual is universal. In accordance with its provisions, you can finish any siding that provides installation on the crate: fiber cement, wood, metal, vinyl, etc.

Mounting the crate

Siding is best attached to a pre-mounted crate. We work in the following order.

The first stage - choose the material

The frame can be assembled from a wooden beam or metal profile. Metal products are more durable and durable. In addition, the metal crate is much easier to attach to an uneven base.

Installation of profiles is carried out with a half-meter step. Suspension is used for fastening to the wall. This technique will allow to level the surface drops and fix the elements of the frame by level.

Wooden crate is cheaper. When choosing this option, pay attention to the condition of the wood. It is forbidden that:

• material is laminated;
• was deformed;
• had cyanotic stains and traces of rot, etc.

Elements of a wooden crate must be impregnated with fire retardant and antiseptic. If the house is built of wood elements, the walls should also be treated with the listed products.

The second stage - prepare the base

The lining is easiest to attach to a flat base. First of all, we remove any details that might interfere. These are all kinds of tiles, bars, platbands, gutters, etc.

The third stage - install guides

Siding is best fixed horizontally. In this case, the bars or the profiles of the battens are fixed vertically.

For fixing the rails to wooden walls we use nails or screws. If the house is built of concrete blocks or bricks, we fix it with dowels, preliminary drilling for them holes in the wall of the house.

Each level is leveled.

Important! If you plan to perform external insulation of walls, a siding for siding is best secured after all the insulation works have been completed. In this case, the crate will be two: for insulating materials and for facing. In this case, the racks of the two frames must be placed parallel to each other.

You can, of course, try to lay the insulation layers after fixing the siding for the siding, but it is not so convenient.

Mount J-profiles

Starting guides must be fixed perfectly, becausefrom the correctness of their installation depends the quality of the entire cladding.

The first step. Take the level and find the lowest point on the crate. We retreat from it upwards 50 mm and we put a label. For this, screw the screw into the rail a little.

The second step. Continuously move around the structure and continue to put the self-tapping marks to fix the start profiles. Screws are screwed into the corners of the house.

The third step. Pull between the corner marks of the rope.

Fourth step. We mark on the rails the boundaries of the installation of the angular profiles. Take the profile itself, apply it to the corner of the frame structure and place it around the edges of the mark with a pencil.

crate. The fifth step. Moving further along the rope, we make a 6 mm horizontal gap from the edge of the angular profiles and fix the starting guide to the racks of the frame.

Important! Between profiles, leave a 1-centimeter gap to compensate for temperature deformation.

We leave the gap between the starting guides and the nail planks.

siding In order to avoid making a 6 mm indentation, it is possible to cut off parts of the nail strips so that they do not rest on the J-profile with temperature changes.

Important! Start profiles must be mounted horizontally! Correct the deviation as long as necessary.

If you install guides with deviations from the level, the siding will also warp. It will be extremely difficult to correct this in the future.

Mounting of external corner profiles

The first step. Mark the spotlights. We need to see where the edges of these elements will be in the future.

The second step. Attach the guide to the corner of the frame. We do this with a 3-mm gap to the soffit or the roof. We fix the profile with screws.

The lower border of the element is placed 0.6 cm below the edge of the starting profile.

The third step. Verify the verticality of the installation. In the absence of deviations, fix the bottom, and after - the remaining places. Experts do not advise placing fasteners in the corner elements too often.

If the house is above 300 cm, the profiles will have to be superimposed one on the other. To do this, trim the top profile. As a result, a 9-millimeter gap must remain between the slats of the joining elements. When laying the elements, we can maintain a 2.5 cm overlap.

abrasive wheel Important! The profiles are docked on one level on each side of the house.

If the plinth has a protruding structure, shorten the profile so that there is a 6 mm gap between it and the base.

Helpful hint! Instead of a corner profile it is allowed to install 2 J-elements( starting).So you can save money. But this solution has its own drawback - the angle will not be as tight as when using a special angular profile. Having decided to use this method, pre-glue the wall behind a similar angle with a strip of roll waterproofing material.

Assembling the internal corner profiles

The order of installation of these elements does not differ significantly from the technology of arrangement of external corners - between the profile and the spotlight we leave an indentation of 3 mm, the lower end of the profile is lowered below the J-0,6 cm.

. If there is a projecting base or other element from below, which is knocked out from the general level, then we leave a 6 mm indentation between it and the profile - it is impossible that the profile of the inner corner abutsin it.

There are 3 methods for arranging interior corners, see figure.

If the height of the wall is more than 300 cm, we perform the splicing of the profiles. The technology is the same as for the arrangement of external corners.

We leave a 9 mm indentation between the strips, carefully cutting off excess material. The overlap of the upper element on the lower one is 2.5 cm. The fixing elements are installed with a 4-centimeter step, placing them strictly in the center of the holes intended for this purpose. The exception is the highest point. Here fasteners need to be installed at the top of the hole.

Mounting the frames of the

. For most inexperienced masters, difficulties arise precisely at the stage of framing of window and door openings. The order of work will vary depending on how the openings are arranged relative to the wall plane.

Openings in the same plane as the

In this case, we do the following.

The first step. We perform waterproofing of openings.

The second step. We fix on the openings platbands or J-profiles. Each opening is equipped with 4 casings: pairs of vertical and pairs of horizontal.

The third step. Connect profiles.

To make the connection of the lintels as neat as possible, we do this:

• create bridge cuts on each side of the upper profile;
• we bend the bridges downwards so that the atmospheric precipitation is removed in the profile below;
• remove pieces of material on the side elements, preventing the connection with the casing at the top;
• connect the side and top profiles. As a result, the bridges should be inside the profiles.
  

  Mounting of clypees and window frames with the correct technological indents

The casing below is connected in exactly the same way, only the bridges will need to be cut and bent on the side elements for further overlapping on the profile at the bottom.

The apertures are recessed into the facade of the

When installing the window profiles, we work in accordance with the same recommendations as when installing the casing;create on the profile incisions corresponding to the depth of the opening, and then bend the bridges and insert them into the finish elements.

Do not be lazy to understand the principles of bending off such bridges. We make them so that they cover the joint of the cladding elements. As a result, moisture can not penetrate inside.

profiles Mounting the first panel

Start facing from the least noticeable wall of the building. So we can train and work out all sorts of inaccuracies.

First step. Insert the first panel facing in the corner profile and in the lock connection of the starting strip.

Important! Between the first cladding element and the lower part of the angle lock we leave a 6 mm thermal gap.

The second step. Attach the panel to the crate.

It is important to keep the size of the process indents. If the cladding is carried out in warm weather, we maintain a 6 mm spacing, if in the cold - we increase the gap to 9 mm. When setting panel trim, the indentation can be reduced.

Building panels

Elements of facing increase lapping or using the H-profile.

When fixing the panels overlap, you must first shorten the locks of the facing panels and the mounting frames, so that the result is an overlap of 2.5 cm in length.

crate The mounting of the H-profile is performed similarly to the corner elements - at the top we retreat 0.3 cm from the spotlight, from the bottom we drop it by 0.6 cm relative to the starting profile.

Important! Between the H-profile and any obstacles on the facade of the house leave a 6-millimeter indentation.

Mount the rest of the siding

We continue the lining of the house with siding. The technology of work is similar to the order of fastening the first panel.

Important! Each 2-3 rows check the horizontality of the lining with a level.

Having reached the opening, delete the unnecessary piece of the panel that falls on the opening.

Secure fastening of panels is ensured with the help of "hooks".For this we need a punch.

We mount an additional finishing profile at the bottom of the opening. It will allow to align the lining on the plane.

We mount under the roof

Under the roofing structure we attach the J-profile.

We work in the following order.

The first step. We measure the distance between the lower part of the lock of the finish element and the lock of the penultimate facing panel.

The second step. We subtract the 1-2 mm indentation from the received measurement.

The third step. Mark the whole panel, cut off its upper part with the lock joint.

The fourth step is .We create "hooks" at the top of the element with a 20-centimeter step. For this we make cuts and bend them to the front side. The fifth step. Insert the cropped element into the penultimate siding panel. With a slight movement up, snap in the inserted element in the locking joint of the finish profile.

Mount the gable

We trim the gable around the perimeter. All fasteners, except the top, are installed in the center of the holes. The upper fastening element is placed at the top of the hole. You can trim both profiles for arranging the interior corners, and the starting profile.

The installation procedure is similar to the mounting of wall panels. We cut the edges of the elements and connect them with the locks of the receiving profiles. Remember the 6 mm indentation when mounting in warm weather and 9 mm when doing work in winter.

The last element of the gable paneling is fastened directly through the panel material - this can only be done here.

The cladding is completed.

Siding Specialists' Tips for Siding

To finish the house panels as successfully as possible, you need to know certain subtleties of doing this work. There is a list of general recommendations for any siding, as well as individual tips for panels made from a specific material.

General advice

1. Fasten the fasteners / screws in the center of the factory holes.
2. Do not press the fasteners' hats to the panels too tightly - leave a gap in case of temperature deformation of the material.
3. Finish from left to right and bottom to top. Panels are placed horizontally.
4. Metal and vinyl siding is fastened with a small gap - these materials are subject to temperature deformation. In principle, experts recommend fastening with a small gap and panels of other materials.
5. Vinyl siding is fixed exclusively through the holes intended for this purpose. Punch the panel itself is impossible - it will badly affect the life of its service. There is only one exception, and it was discussed above. The same recommendations remain valid for panels from other materials.
   

   The only time you can attach the siding panel directly through the vinyl - the last panel of the

6. Wooden siding is fixed only with galvanized products, otherwise the wood very soon begins to rot.
7. The lining of the house from the log house is performed only after the building material has shrunk, i.e.not earlier than six months after the completion of the construction of the building. Otherwise, when shrinking the wood can lead the entire finish.

For different materials

Now you can manually perform the installation of the siding at the highest level.

Description	Advantages	Length x width x thickness, mm	Pack quantity, pieces
Vinyl Siding "Kanada Plus"	1. Staining in dark colors is performed using the "Cool Color" method,implying the use of superconcentrates. 2. The excellent appearance remains unchanged even under the influence of high and low temperatures, the range of which ranges from -50 ° C to + 60 ° C. 3. Stays shock-resistant, even if the ambient temperature drops to -20 to 60 ° C. 4. It is not susceptible to microbiological corrosion( fungi, mold).	3660 x 230 x 1,1	20
Acrylic Siding "Kanada Plus"	Among other useful qualities of the acrylic siding "Kanada Plus" it is worth highlighting: • Increased resistance to direct UV rays; • Excellent tolerance to acid and alkaline solutions, as well as to various fats; • Good washability with chemical detergents; • High degree of deformation resistance( excellent temperature transfer to 75 ° -80 ° C).	3660 x 230 x 1,1	20
"Alta-Siding" - Vinyl Siding	"Alta-siding" is: • one of the safest finishing materials on the Russian market; • frost resistance and ability to maintain strength even at very low temperatures( -20 to -60 ° C); • resistance to significant changes in temperature and the environment; • longevity: the life of "Alta-siding" - up to 30 years; • resistance to aggressive substances( detergents can be used for cleaning the siding); • non-susceptibility to infection with moldy fungi.	3660 x 230 x 1,1	20
Facade metal siding INSI	Siding "INSI" is made of galvanized steel, covered with a layer of polymer composition, and therefore inherits all the advantages of this material: • Resistance to temperature changes( -50 ° C to +80 ° C) and mechanical damage; • long service life with the preservation of the original properties( about 50 years); • ecological compatibility; • incombustibility; • possibility of mounting both horizontally and vertically; • protection of the building against overheating( in a ventilated facade system); • and when you select one of the two new colors( alder or rosewood) - a complete imitation of the appearance.	Length up to 6000, width to 200, thickness 0.5	-

Good work!

Video - Mounting the siding with your own hands