How to install the socket box

Box for installation of outlets is not only a convenient way to hide internal elements in the wall, but also an obligatory safety precaution element of the electrical wiring of the room. Next, let's talk about what the sub-socket is about and the technology of its installation.

Purpose of a pad and its types

To better understand what a box for a socket is,sockets:

1. The inner case is made of either ceramics or plastic. The first option is preferable, since it does not burn, but the cost of such outlets is higher.
2. Electrolytes. Metal plates that transfer current from the electrical cable to the plug of the appliance.
3. Ground loop. There are in most models of sockets, used to connect the ground. It is advisable to do in the event that the voltage in the network is unstable.
4. Plate for fastening screws. Aluminum plate with screw holes. Used to securely fix the outlet.
5. Front panel. Closes the internal elements of the outlet.

In addition to the wall outlet, a cable is also placed in the wall. Usually they are taken out with a small margin, in case the contacts burn out and there will be a need to replace the outlet.

As a result, a lot of elements are obtained which are not protected from atmospheric effects. Direct condensation on the contacts causes them to oxidise and leads to a short circuit. On the other hand, it is not possible to fully integrate the interior of the wall outlet into the wall, as this will immediately lead to the burnout of all wiring.

Tip: sometimes using alabaster instead of the scaffolds. The material conducts a weak current. In the 50-80s of the last century, the load was not significant, so the power grid did not fail. With modern energy consumption of 6-12 kW.The use of any protective circuits, except for junior diggers is not allowed.

The solution to the problem with the fixation of the socket was the flush-mount. These are boxes of round or oval shape, made of non-flammable varieties of plastic. In addition to the hollow core, they are equipped with holes for the mounting screws of the socket, which facilitates installation and makes it more reliable. On the sides of the escutcheon are made holes for cable entry. In the factory form, the holes are sealed with plastic, which must be squeezed out or cut out.

Kinds of boxes for sockets:

• for concrete,
• for gypsum cardboard.

Concrete pads suitable for installation in any monolithic wall, whether it be brick, foam concrete or any other massive material. They are fixed with putty or cement.

Materials without an array, such as gypsum board, plywood, OSB boards, etc., do not have sufficient depth for tight fixation of the juniper. Therefore, the design is improved by crimp paws. With the help of screws, the feet are pressed against the surface of the sheet, as a result of which there is a reliable fixation, which excludes the possibility of shearing the juniper.

How to install the box under the socket in the concrete wall

First, let's consider the installation of the podzheetnik in a monolithic construction. Installation is carried out only after the channeling of the channel under the electrical cable. The first thing you will need is a certain inventory:

• punch,
• chisel and hammer,
• cloves 10 mm,
• putty, building glue or cement,
• level,
• screwdriver slot for 4 mm,
• screwdriver cross for 2 mm.

Instruction for channeling the channels of the extension:

• draw a plan for the electrical network of the room,
• to consider the location, height and number of outlets that are required for this room,

Tip: several lines are used to reduce the load on the submarine electrical cable for specific purposes: the first line is the connection of household electrical appliances with a constant consumption of electricity, the second is the connection of household appliances with periodic use, for example, an iron, a vacuum cleaner, etc., the third - connection of lighting devices, including floor lamps, table lamps, etc. Thus, each sub-line requires its own podrozetniki, the height and number of which depend on the specific features of the room.

• on the rod under the cable, in the place marked on the plan, drill a hole with a perforator,

Tip: for drilling there is a special round nozzle of the saw that makes the hole specifically for the junket. If there was not such a nozzle in the set, then several separated holes are drilled with the thickest drill, and then the hole is made with a chisel and a hammer. For concrete and red bricks, it is better to immediately purchase a nozzle.

• clean the resulting hole from debris,
• insert the scraper, if necessary, widen the hole.

At this stage, the preparatory work is finished. Now you need to turn off the power supply and proceed to the direct installation of the podzroetnikov.

Installation of boxes for sockets includes the following items:

• if the cable has not been laid in advance, then it is connected to the counter and fixed in the shtroba to the place of the first break. The stock should be not less than 10 cm,
• in the socket is squeezed out or cut out the holes for the cable, the
• end of the cable is stripped from the insulation and separate wiring is pushed inside the junket,
• is fixed to the hole in the hole and laid with cement, building glue or putty. The choice of material depends on the size of the hole, if the gap is large, glue or cement is best suited, if small - putty.

Tip: The shall be flush with the wall. If the hole is deeper than necessary during the channeling of the canal wall, it must first be filled with cement. The emptiness should not remain neither side, nor behind from the box under the socket.

The socket or the switch is then connected, and after the decorative materials are applied, their front part is installed.

Installation of boxes for sockets in the drywall

Since the gypsum board is processed much easier than concrete, only the following is needed for work:

• construction knife,
• screwdriver cross for 2 mm,
• level.

If the mower is mounted in a board based on wood shavings, a drill and a jig saw will be added to the list of tools. Since wood is used extremely rarely as a covering material for wall falsity, we will not describe this process in detail.

Instructions for assembling the subgrid into the plasterboard:

• draw a diagram of the electrical circuit,
• of the place where the boxes under the socket should be installed, mark on the drywall sheet,
• attach a box to the point and cover the back of the unit with a pencil,
• if planned installationa few podrozetnikov, the level to draw the upper and lower boundaries, to the resulting strip to attach the podrozetnik and finish the required number of holes,
• cut through the construction knife channel, it must be maThe
• is to fit the box under the socket, if the side parts with the crimping screws do not pass properly, under them cut the notches,
• remove the cable from the cable and remove the insulation from it,
• conduct the wires in the box for mounting the sockets and insert itin the channel,
• press the crimping screws into the sheet of the plasterboard,
• connect the socket or install the switch,
• the outer part is mounted only after the completion of all other construction work.

Useful advices for

Although the process is not complicated, inexperienced builders make a lot of mistakes, as a result of which the sockets are heated, burn out, or simply fall out of the wall. Consider the typical situations:

• Sparks when the appliance is turned on or off. Often due to the fact that either a cable of insufficient cross-section is used or the connection is poorly connected to the outlet. The first option requires either the replacement of the entire line, or a reduction in the load on the outlet. In the second, enough reconnect the outlet, cutting off the worn contacts. Much less often cause is inattention. When the mortar enters the contacts and prevents the normal passage of current. This leads to microclosing and the appearance of sparks. When installing the box under the outlet, it is important that the contacts are clean and insulated.
• Heating of the plug, reflow of the socket. Caused by excessive strain on the cable. Eliminated by replacing the entire line. Since the cable from the meter to the first node is installed according to technical standards with a cross section of at least 2.5 mm, there are no such problems at the first outlet. But further, for the sake of economy, a thinner cable is used, which can not be categorically done.

• Failure of the outlet or its sag. It is caused by a poor-quality installation of the juniper. Each turning on and switching off the appliance into the network creates a mechanical load on the fasteners. If the podzetnik is not compressed enough or there is free space behind it, sooner or later it will leave its place, and the socket will fail. In the case of concrete, it is enough to lay the building glue of emptiness and reinstall the sub-socket. In a plaster all is much more difficult, as in a hole the box does not become and it will be necessary to do a new one.
• Another problem is the residual current. When turning on or turning off the appliance, a slight electric shock occurs or a crack is heard. This indicates the presence of static voltage. It is not dangerous to health, but liquidation is still subject. The problem is solved by connecting the ground.
• The most common problem is that the walls are shocked. By and large this is possible only in reinforced concrete structures. As a rule, the voltage in the wall does not exceed 20-40 V and is not dangerous for life, but if the box under the socket is installed next to the fittings, the voltage reaches 180 V. The reason for the occurrence is quite simple - when the box was installed, the solution became dirty in it. Therefore, it is important to pay attention to the fact that in addition to the wires and the inside of the outlet or switch in the receptacle there were no other elements, debris and, moreover, a solution.