Despite the rich assortment of new-fashioned shower cabins, our fellow citizens do not hurry to part with the traditional and familiar "font" - a bathroom. And many do not even think of abandoning it, believing that only it delivers true pleasure. However, strangely enough, in many dwellings, even with the replacement of old bathtubs are put all the same cast-iron.
Without going into all the "pros" and "cons" of different models of baths, we note the main feature of these products - their considerable weight. Perhaps, this determines all the nuances of installation work.
What to take into account
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All upper edges must be in the same horizontal plane. The fluid drain is already provided by the shape of the bottom of the bathtub, which has some slope to the siphon installation site.
- If the floor in the bathroom does not have sufficient hardness, the support plates are placed under the "legs" of the tank. The recommended thickness of the material is not less than 0.5 cm.
- Do not use soft metals( aluminum, copper) as plates.
- In some models the supports are not adjustable, that is they have a fixed length. If the alignment with the plates does not help, then the legs will have to be cut( one or more).Therefore it is better to purchase containers with adjustable supports.
When they are put in working position, you must ensure parallelism. Otherwise, with a significant amount of water in the bathroom( + person's weight), they can "part ways".
- Depending on the technical solution for a particular model, the fixing of the supports can be done with the help of tightening bolts or wedges. The first option is preferable, since the installation( leveling) of such baths is much simpler.
Installation procedure for
cast iron bath Site preparation
The surface is leveled. The cement-sand screed( or special mortar) is mounted on the floor, after which, as a rule, it is laid out with ceramic tiles. Even at this stage, it is necessary to achieve a horizontal surface of the floor. The building level is applied to it in several directions. Such a technique minimizes possible errors.
Finishing the walls of the bathroom
Much depends on the used lining material. Even if the design is done in part, the finish should be above the upper edge of the bath.
Transferring containers to the room
Given its size and weight, this work is performed by two people / together. In order not to damage the threshold and floor, it is desirable to cover them with some material. It should immediately be determined how to "rotate" the bath so that its outlet fitting corresponds to the location of the point of connection to the sewage system. Expand the tank in the bathroom, given the tightness of the room, will not work.
Bath preparation
The plumbing device is laid on its side or upside down. This is necessary to install the siphon and supports. Although someone will prefer to do the installation of plumbing and after fixing the bath in place, last. So this stage( with a siphon) is optional. Moreover, in this case, we are interested in the process of installing the "font", not its connection.
The feet are fixed to the body in accordance with the instructions attached to the product. But the general recommendations are as follows. If you first put the supports only on one side, you need to prepare in advance suitable supports, so that the fastening of the 2 remaining legs does not have to be made "on weight" after turning the bath.
Alignment
Naturally, it is done after mounting all the supports. For a more accurate determination of the horizontality, you can use a piece of board along the length of the bath. It is stacked in different directions, and above - the building level. The task is to achieve minimum errors. This work is laborious, but it will have to be done.
Fixation
Usually produced if the bath is placed on a smooth tile. To fix the legs on the floor surface, to avoid the possibility of displacement of the product, you can use a water-repellent adhesive( on a polymer basis).
If for installation of a cast-iron bath it is necessary to invite experts, payment of their services will be approximately such:
- installation itself( excluding dismantling and removal of the old product) - from 2,200 rubles;
- removal of an old bath - from 500 rubles.
Delivery to the site, as well as take-away are paid separately, taking into account the number of storeys of the building and the location of the apartment.
In a private house, it is advisable to install a bath on the bricks, since the room has dimensions larger than in typical urban flats. This method of fastening is more reliable. The supports are laid out in 2 - 3 bricks, at a distance of half a meter. The calculation is simple - for the convenience of using the product the side of the bathroom should be raised above the floor by about 80 - 90 cm. With this method of installation, it is necessary to provide convenience of access to plumbing connected to the bathroom( siphon, overflow)
Some tips
- Specialists recommend doing grounding if pipethe lines are made of metal. Just in case, it is advisable to consult with a professional on this issue, since the expediency of such work depends on a number of other factors.
- If the walls are tiled, then either a fillet or an adhesive tape is used to seal the gap between them and the bathroom. In the case of an unlined wall, the subsequent laying of the tiles is done on top of the skirting board.
- It's not a fact that a cast-iron bath of imported production is better. Its smaller weight indicates that the manufacturer saves on the material, and this also affects the quality of the product.
- When installing the bath on a floor made of wood, it is necessary to carefully calculate the total mass( bath + water + person).
