Preparing the base and tools of
Before starting the flooring, it is necessary to prepare the base and a number of tools. A typical mounting kit for laying a laminate includes: an electric jigsaw or saw, a hammer, a plastic film, a ruler and a pencil, spacer wedges, a laminate board, a backing( 2 mm), a clamp( designed to cover the last laths).After all the materials are ready, proceed to surface preparation. It should be perfectly flat.
Recommendations. Paving is allowed on a parquet board, linoleum or any other surface, provided that it is perfectly flat. In no case can it be installed in saunas, bathrooms and shower cabins. This will cause the material to peel off.
First check the base, it should not have sharp drops( up to 3 mm) and unevenness. If the surface is not ideal, then it is aligned. On a wooden covering( fiberboard, parquet, solid board), the curvature is eliminated with a grinder. On the concrete put a self-leveling screed. Then check the rigidity. No part of the coating should sag under the typical weight of a person. If the boards are not strong, then they need to be replaced. Then cover the polyethylene film.
Laminate Assembly Instructions Before laying out of the boxes, remove the strips for a few days so that they are "used" to the existing temperature and humidity. Plus, it's important to pay attention to the material itself. It must be intact and intact. If there are defective bars, then they can not be used. Begin the installation of a laminate, the video with the algorithm of which is presented on our website, so that the incoming light from the window falls parallel to the seams of the coating. In the case of planking on the concrete base, polyethylene is pre-laid.
It is needed for normal vapor barrier. When the installation is done on wooden boards or linoleum, the polyethylene layer is not needed. Ideal is the use of a substrate, which also provides hydro, sound insulation, as well as ventilation effect.
The laying itself starts with the fact that the first row is formed. In this case, there should be a gap of about 7-15 mm between the wall and the coating. For this purpose, spacer wedges are specially installed. Such gaps are necessary so that there are no obstacles in further narrowing and widening of the coating.
If you suddenly find that the laminate boards "stand on end", rest assured that you have not made the proper distance for the gaps. The direction of laying the planks - "on yourself", fastening - a lock method. Two types of connections are common: «Click» and «Lock» locks. The first - collapsible, the second - the latch. After you have laid the first row, proceed to the second. Moreover, the method of laying is desirable "in half of the board."So the coating looks much more aesthetic.
Removing
laminate As already mentioned, this coating is also easily dismantled. However, the question arises - how to remove laminate? The complexity of the dismantling depends on the lock system. If the connection "Click", , then the process will be fast enough, if the "Lock", , then it will take more effort and time. However, to begin with, in any case, you need to remove the plinth. This requires a screwdriver and a screwdriver. Next proceed directly to the slats.
You need to lightly pick up the first board and open the lock. The same is done with the subsequent ones. In this process, the main thing is not to overdo it and not to apply excessive sharpness, as this can lead to breakage of the coating. Carry out the work carefully. It is also important to remember that it is possible to dismantle this coating only a certain number of times. It all depends on the manufacturer. In general, this is all, so the question - how to disassemble the laminate, should no longer arise.