Before considering this issue, it should be clarified, and what is meant by the concept of "siding"?Otherwise, it makes no sense to talk about differences in the method of mounting its various types. In the view of most people, these are plastic panels that can be used to coat various surfaces. However, this is not entirely true - this term denotes any products used for the external cladding of any solid( framework) structures.
It should be noted immediately that the general principle of working with siding panels remains unchanged. As a rule, all the guides devoted to this issue are mostly focused on PVC products. This is partly due to the fact that this material is most popular among "private traders", which is determined to a large extent by its low cost. A more detailed study of the technology of mounting plastic siding can be, after reading this article.
Therefore, in this article, it makes sense to dwell only on the nuances and features of mounting metal siding with your own hands. But in order to understand this better, it is necessary to understand its characteristics, since they determine the specificity of the installation.
Material
The basis is usually high-quality( alloyed) steel, which has a bi-directional polymer coating, which protects it from the effects of atmospheric influences. There are several such layers, depending on the "modification" of the products. First of all, they serve to prevent direct contact of metal with moisture, which excludes the occurrence of corrosive processes.
Firstly, , when transporting and storing material, it must be ensured that the protective coating is not damaged. Even a small scratch will lead to the appearance of rust.
Secondly, , when cutting sheets, do not use tools whose work causes strong metal heating( for example, "Bulgarian").Such a thermal action will result in the melting of the polymer layer along the cutting line. In addition, sparks of hot metal, getting on the surface of the siding, burn out the polymer. As a result - in such "damaged" places over time, the metal will start to rust.
By the way, this is often the "sin" many hired masters. They do not think much about what will happen next. For them, the main thing is the speed of the operations, and from this point of view the "Bulgarian" is ideally suited. But the quality of work and the appropriateness of such a technique is highly questionable.
Large range of products
Panels have a different profile - smooth, figured( imitation logs, beams);the basis is aluminum, metal plastic or steel. They differ in size - from 0.25 x 0.5 to 6 x 6( m), and a thickness of 2 to 4 mm. Consequently, all products called "metal siding" differ in their weight. This must be taken into account when constructing a crate( the dimensions of the cells, the intervals between the racks).In more detail all types of siding are described here.
Assembly details
Support frame
For its arrangement, either a metal profile or wood slats are used. As for metal scoring, it is desirable to use the first option. It should be borne in mind that in the course of operation all materials under the influence of temperature change their geometry( temperature deformation), And this happens constantly, even for one day. It is clear that the corresponding coefficients for metals and wood are different. Therefore, it is recommended to mount a metal profile for metal siding.
Quite often, "amateur" builders when choosing the interval between the rails are guided by the parameters of the insulation. And this is correct, since the main types of such materials fit into the cells. But when installing the metal siding, one should not forget about the so-called "wave effect" - when the distance between the frame elements is sufficiently large, the lining starts to "play".In such cases, it is worthwhile to install intermediate rails.
But such technology is associated with certain difficulties. To avoid them, when decorating the building with metal siding, it is advisable to use a "hard" insulation, for example, plates of expanded polystyrene. But minivate, polyurethane spraying for these purposes will be unsuitable.
Ventilazor
This issue should be paid close attention. The metal-siding panels hermetically "clog" the surface to be removed, and condensate is intensively released on their inner side. What this leads to, it is not necessary to explain especially - the wetting and rotting of the heat insulator, the base material. Therefore, first of all, a qualitative natural "exhaust" should be provided. Optimum clearance( siding - heater) - 4 cm
Practical recommendations
- Mounting of metal siding must be carried out, strictly following the manufacturer's instructions. Only it takes into account all the features of the application and installation of specific panels.
- Metal cutting should be cut with a hacksaw for metal, or el / fret saw( with a suitable cloth and some caution).Begin from the edge where the perforation holes are indicated( for fasteners).
- All metal-siding panels are produced with a topcoat film. Before installing them in place, it is removed.
- For simplification of work and increase of its efficiency at fastening metallosiding it is expedient to use a screwdriver.
