How to carefully hide pipes in the toilet - the three best ways

Quality repair in the toilet provides attention to all the details. Pipes, confusion of wiring, check valves, counters and filters, without which communications in a modern apartment are unthinkable, will not add beauty to freshly tiled or decorative panels. They just need to be hidden. The same desire can arise and the owners of toilets without fresh repair, to somehow improve this room. There are many options for masking pipes, and for each case, you can choose the appropriate one.

Cabinet

The simplest and decades-proven method is to hide the pipes in the locker. This is the most suitable option for toilets, in which repairs are not planned in the near future. The cabinet is convenient because there will always be free access to pipes, meters and filters for their maintenance and repair. In addition, there is a place for storage of household chemicals and hygiene. The locker is placed above the toilet, in the place of the greatest accumulation of pipes and the passage of the sewer riser. The space under it to the floor can be hidden behind a decorative screen.

Sanitary locker is easy to assemble with your own hands. In the beginning, the walls are fastened to the corners and dowels of its frame of timber. Between each other the lengths of the beam are connected by screws. The frame must be in the form of a parallelepiped, its faces must be strictly horizontal or vertical( checked by level), so that later there are no problems with hanging doors or installing shelves. Vertical faces in 2-3 places are joined by horizontal pieces of the bar, you can have a smaller section. Shelves will be attached to them in the future.

If the walls are curves, then you need to use wedges and gaskets, which can later be covered with panels in the color of the walls.

The hinges are attached to the outer vertical hinges and the doors are hung. For them, you can use chipboard or laminated MDF, cut to size, with pasted edges, and you can choose suitable for the size of the door for kitchen facades( they are sold separately in building supermarkets or stores like Ikey).Inside the shelves are mounted, the grooves for the pipes in them are cut using a jigsaw.

For the screen under the cabinet the same way is attached the frame in the form of a simple rectangle. This design should be the height from the floor to the locker and snug against the walls. Another make exactly the same frame and fix it with screws or nails sheet of plywood or chipboard with holes for the pipes. The screen is connected to the carcass by screws in the upper part or by means of metal plates and a screw connection, the second is easier to unscrew if you need to take off the screen for access by pipes urgently.

Shutters

The locker is undoubtedly convenient, but in a small toilet there may not be room for even opening the doors. In such cases it is possible to cover the pipes with shutters. This is a modern and convenient option, albeit more expensive. Roller shutters can also be used for major repairs of the toilet, picking up their color under the tiles or plastic panels and closing them niches with a boiler and other equipment. An additional advantage is that they are locked, and, therefore, dangerous cleaning products will not be available to children.

In the rolls, you can not make a hole, so under them, as under the cabinet, mount the screen, but at a small height, exactly to the level at which the pipes go to the toilet. The roller shutters themselves are attached to the ceiling, and the shaft to which they will be wound should be horizontal, only so they will not get stuck.

Stationary version of

If the toilet is repaired with replacement of all pipes, it makes sense to hide them behind a fixed box or drown them in the walls. To do this, you need to make sure that a number of requirements are fulfilled:

• all connections are made qualitatively and hermetically,
• in the event of an accident to the communication should be access through the hatch, the
• door or hatch is installed in front of the valves, counters and filters for their maintenance,
• on the sections,to which access will not be possible, there must be a minimum of connections,
• if a fully enclosed box or false wall is assumed, it is necessary to take care of the thermal insulation of the pipes beforehand so that the condensate on them does not lead to the appearance of plesneither.

Before tightening the pipes, it is better to observe for a while( a week or two) after them, whether all is leakproof, there is no leakage.

In the most common case, when the pipes are located vertically in one of the corners or go all along the floor, they can be closed with a non-detachable box.

1. First, the frame is assembled from a bar or metal profile, the choice of material depends on what the box will be finished later on. All faces of the frame must be parallel to the floor or walls, unless a bevelled or curved construction is provided.
2. At the stage of the carcass assembly, there are places under the hatches and contours of the appropriate size are made for them. Less than 15 * 15 cm do not do them, because it's difficult to work through a small hole.
3. The frame is covered with plasterboard sheets on self-tapping screws or plastic panels, if the walls in the toilet are finished with them. For the panels you will have to install additional profiles, the same as they are attached to the walls.
4. The gypsum-pasteboard box is glued with tiles or wallpaper, as well as on the rest of the walls in the toilet.
5. Hatch openings are closed with plastic doors( sold in standard sizes in sanitary ware shops).

If the box in the toilet is assembled from drywall, then a moisture resistant material is used, since condensate is difficult to avoid. Lined with tiles, this design looks attractive and does not stand out against the background of the rest of the walls. However, in the event of an accident, the gypsum board must be completely dismantled and then made of new material, whereas the plastic panel can be dismantled and reassembled.