Correctly made insulation of the wooden house allows to save considerably on heating, to improve the microclimate in the house, and also to extend the service life of the log house. When the question arises about the thermal insulation of the walls of a wooden house, the first and most important point is the choice of the method of insulation - inside or outside. Most home owners choose outdoor insulation, and this choice is absolutely true - exterior insulation of a wooden house is more effective.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house outside
When internal insulation is not only reduced the usable area of the premises, but also the dew point is moved inside the log house. Only internal space is insulated, the frame itself constantly experiences humidity and temperature changes, it freezes in winter, and rot in summer. The greatest destruction of the frame at the same time occurs from the inside, closed by a heater.
External insulation protects from freezing not only the room, but also the frame itself. The dew point is shifted to the outside, and condensation occurs outside the wooden structures, under a ventilated facade, where the moisture dries quickly.
Materials for warming wooden house
As a heater for wooden houses, mats made of stone or mineral wool are in high demand. Polyfoam for thermal insulation of wooden structures is not recommended, because it does not have a vapor permeability and does not remove moisture vapor from the surface of the log. Mats made of stone or mineral wool are of different thickness and density. The denser the insulation, the easier it is to install and maintain its performance for longer. Soft and loose mats often slide down, disintegrate, forming harmful to health dust. Therefore, do not save on a quality insulation. Other advantages of stone or mineral wool include its incombustibility and unpopularity in rodents, in contrast to polystyrene foam.
Mineral wool is an excellent tool for house insulation
In addition to insulation, two layers of film are required: one is waterproof and protects the frame from moisture penetration. It is laid on a protected wooden surface. This film must have a vapor permeability and remove moisture from the log through a heater in the external environment. The second - wind and hydroprotection, it is mounted over the thermal insulation. The purpose of this layer is to protect the insulation from moisture coming from the outside environment. Waterproofing of mineral insulation is mandatory, as when wetting it loses its thermal insulation properties.
On the outside, the insulation is covered with any facing material with mandatory adjustment of the ventilation gap. This cladding was called the ventilated facade. Due to the air circulation between the lining and the walls, the formation of fungus and mold is eliminated, moisture is successfully removed from the insulation and all conditions are created for the long service of the frame and the entire building.
Layers laying structure for insulation
Wood house insulation technology outside
- The walls of the log or bar house are treated with an antiseptic in two layers, paying special attention to the lower crown and corners. The logs are impregnated with antiseptic very carefully, as they are most prone to rot. It is better to conduct the treatment in warm dry weather. After processing, the walls are dried for 1-2 days.
- Walls are fixed with the help of staples and stapler waterproofing film with a vapor-permeable coating. This film has a different coating of the sides: the glossy should be turned to the heater, and the porous, capable of absorbing and removing moisture from the frame - to the wall. The joints of the film are lapped and glued with a special mounting tape. The film is fastened with a vertical crate of bar, the thickness of the bar should match the thickness of the insulation. The step of the battens is chosen 3-5 cm less than the width of the insulation mats. Layed by the gates, they will perfectly hold without additional fastening.
Installation of a crate for a wooden house
- Put heat insulation mats on the film between the bars, pressing them lightly. If necessary, the mats are cut with an ordinary knife. If the mats are not solid enough and do not stick well inside the frame, you can perform a temporary binding, fixing them with racks. Finally fix the mat with the help of anchor nails. If it is necessary to lay several layers of thermal insulation, the subsequent layer of mats is placed with the seams offset so that the upper mats overlap the joints of the lower ones. All work on laying mats made of mineral wool should be carried out in protective gloves and a respirator.
Laying of mineral wool between the bars
- The heat-resistant membrane membrane film is fastened to the heater. The waterproof surface must be facing outward. Joints are lapped and glued with adhesive tape.
Installing a hydrosensitive membrane film over the heater using an
- stapler A ventilated frame device is required above the film. It is also made of bars, providing a distance between the layer of insulation, covered with windshield, and a decorative facade of at least 5 cm. The bars are attached to the lower frame by screws, and if the walls are not flat enough, then use perforated profiles for adjusting the distance to the frame. Under the skin by metal siding or corrugated board, it is possible to use a profile for gypsum board instead of a bar.
- The cover is fastened according to the technology recommended by the manufacturer. For veneering, you can use vinyl siding, metal profile, block house or imitation lumber. When plating, ensure that there are no cracks through which moisture can penetrate inside the facade.
The house is practically insulated and lined with
. An additional measure of protection of a wooden house is the warming of the basement and the basement. It can be produced using a penopolix or polystyrene, as well as by spraying polyurethane foam. On top of the insulation layer is also mounted ventilated facade or cladding decorative stone or brick.
