Installation of wooden, metal and vinyl block house by own hands - instruction

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Almost every manufacturer supplying the products of the category "for finishing" to the market assures that all work on the installation of the material can be performed independently, without professional skills, which attracts the buyer. As a rule, this largely corresponds to the truth. Only here is it possible to achieve a really high quality cladding, not knowing all the subtleties in conducting technological operations? This article will help you understand all the nuances of installing the block house yourself.

Note! When selecting samples, one should take into account the specifics of their use. For external finishing, boards with a thickness of at least 4 cm are recommended. If the installation is done inside the building, then it is possible to do with blocks of 2 - 2.4 cm.

Given that the block house is used for facing any surfaces, regardless of the base material, Some operations during the editing process can be slightly modified. But the sequence of their conduct remains standard. Therefore, this instruction is only a guide to the installation of a general plan, although in it will be noted individual nuances.

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How to work with the block house

Preparing the basis

Pos. No. 1 in the drawing .What is the meaning of this work? The ground surface is not only leveled( if necessary), but also protected to the maximum from all external influences. Consider the technology of its preparation according to the "full program", and the reader will figure it out himself, then he needs to do it taking into account the deterioration of the structure.

  • The substrate is carefully cleaned from all types of coating. Next - an inspection.
  • The frame in the shrinkage process can give some curvature of the wall. It's easy to check if you use a long straight rail. Alignment of problem areas is usually carried out by a plane. This is enough to bring the wall back to normal.

Note! Why such complexity? The fact is that on the "curved" base it is rather difficult to fasten the supporting frame so that it lies in one vertical plane. If this requirement is not met, then the block house will not be mounted exactly.

  • Fixing of all cracks, cracks, split seams. Applied to wooden houses, this is called a caulk. Materials for such work are quite enough - the most common of them is the tow. From the point of view of the author, taking into account the fact that the base will be further closed by the block house, it is more expedient to use materials from jute( tapes, cords).They are more durable, which in this case is required. Relative to other buildings - from brick, blocks of cellular concrete - which is more appropriate. Minor defects are eliminated by putty, larger ones by solution.
  • Drying. This point is often overlooked, but it is not worth neglecting this stage. The moisture accumulated in the wall will gradually destroy it. If it is not possible to use special devices( for example, a heat gun), then after dismantling the outer cover, you should wait at least a few days. The sun and the wind will do their work.

Note! Getting to work on the facing of the house, it is useful to get acquainted with the weather forecast. Why - it is understandable.




  • Impregnation of the substrate. Specific compositions are selected according to its material. For reinforced concrete boards, for example, it is advisable to use penetrating agents. For wood additionally used compounds for fire protection.

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Steam insulation

Particularly relevant for wood structures. Without this layer, the "tree" will be completely isolated, therefore, the moisture in it will only accumulate, but not go out. The result is known - the development of rot and premature repair of the house.

Carrying frame

Pos.№ 2 in the picture. What to choose for mounting a block house? The question is far from idle. In the construction industry, a parameter such as temperature deformation is necessarily taken into account. The author believes that in most cases it is not worthwhile to use the metal profile that is more convenient to install.

Block house is inherently a wooden board with a specific profile( by definition).In view of this coefficient( temperature expansion), for its fastening the crate should also be installed from wood - racks. By the way, they are easy to trim and to adjust to the general level. With metal, this is not done.

But if the block-house is metal, then the slats need corresponding ones. True, the process of their alignment is more complex. As an option - the installation under them "shoes".

The guides must, firstly, be flat along their entire length, and secondly, they are also pre-dried and processed well. If possible, then it is better to use billets from larch. When wet, it becomes stronger, and for a load-bearing frame it matters.

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What to take into account when installing

  • The bars are installed vertically, since the block house is fixed only horizontally. There are recommendations that its installation can be done as you like. In principle, it is true. But you will agree, the reader, that the house in which logs of walls stand "on a priest" is nonsense.
  • When determining the distance between racks, you should be guided by the geometry of the insulation. If its plates( mats) will fit entirely into the cells of the frame, then they will not have to cut them and increase the amount of waste. But you can not ignore the type of board, its linear parameters( first of all, length).

installation technology Nothing complicated. A cord is stretched on one corner, vertically. This is controlled by the plumb line. After fixing the 1st rack, the next one is fastened, and so on, one at a time.

  • It is recommended to use all fasteners only from galvanized metal.
  • Recently, a plastic profile has appeared on the market. With all its merits, it is worth noting a significant "minus" - its fastening is made only on an ideally aligned base. Otherwise, a break in the guides is inevitable. It is necessary to take into account this, and not to focus only on the low cost of products.

Heater

Pos.№ 3 in the picture. The expediency of its laying is solved depending on local conditions. If winters are cold, then sure. As a rule, either a mineral wool or styrofoam is used - the most budgetary options. In any case, you need to pay attention to the insulation of gaps between the elements of the frame and plates( mats).On sale there is a special tape, which provides full sealing of the cracks.

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Waterproofing layer

Pos.№ 4 in the picture. To reduce the number of strip joints, it is advisable to use non-roll materials, but a membrane. To choose a cloth of the corresponding dimensions is not difficult.

Fastening of the block house

The general rule - fastening of boards is made from below upwards. Pos.№№ 6,7 in the figure.

Assembling of wooden boards

Attachment with clamp Attachment with

claymers Option 1 - with knives. These are special brackets, one side of which is inserted into the "groove" of the block house, and the other is fixed on the rack of the frame with fasteners. It is quite natural that between the boards small gaps are formed( the kleymer has a certain thickness).They are sealed with a special paste, under the color of the board.

Option number 2 - self-tapping screws. They screwed into a "thorn".The technique requires accuracy, because with excessive stress cracking on wood can not be avoided. More often the fasteners are "driven in" with a slope of 450. It is believed that this is more reliable.

Variant №3 - through fastening. Preliminary in the block house the "channel" is drilled, through which the hardware is screwed. With this technique, the hole must be countersinked so that the fastener head is recessed. After that, it is closed with a cork and treated with lacquer. If everything is done neatly, it will look like a knot on the board.

Option number 4 - gluing. For example, planting boards on "liquid nails" or other means for working with wood. Very convenient and fast, although there is a drawback - what if you need to dismantle 1 to 2 samples during the repair process( for replacement)?

Self-tapping Self-tapping

Metal boards

Mounting - according to option number 3.It should be taken into account that such samples are only for the external cladding of the building.

Block house from plastic

The assortment of synthetic block house is extremely large. When choosing the fixing method, you should be guided by the manufacturer's recommendation. In principle, all of them are already described in some detail.

Features

  • The plastic is subject to considerable temperature deformation. Therefore, a gap of about 1.5 mm should be set between specimens.
  • This is also true for fasteners. Panels to the rails are not tightened tightly. In addition, the holes for self-tapping screws should be slightly larger than the diameter of their legs.
  • When finishing a house with plastic imitation of logs, it is necessary to take care of better thermal insulation( gaps between boards!).

There are still questions about the arrangement of corners, openings of windows and doors. But this is a slightly different topic, all the nuances of which will be considered in the next article.

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