Calculation of the number of tiles, ceramic tiles for bathroom renovation

In a situation where laying the tiles will be carried out by yourself, it is difficult to provide forAll the pitfalls. Very often you have to deal with the lack of materials. The reason for this is the battle of the tile with inaccurate work, the need to trim it to the desired size and bypass the exposed sections of the bathroom and the bathroom. And this is not to mention the fact that the cladding often needs to be done in accordance with the layout of the picture.

But do not give up, because there are key stages of preparatory work. They will save you both the costs of material and time.

The first step is to calculate the number of fragments for the cladding. Having received the scheme of stacking in view of the real sizes, you will define the exact area under facing. When buying, take the number of tiles with a margin of 10% of the calculated area. Such a volume of spare material will not remain superfluous and may be useful in the future if you need to replace a stacked piece or need a visual sample for choosing bathroom accessories in the tone of the walls.

Our calculations on the volume of procurement will begin with the measurements of the bathroom. Roulette in hand and remove the height of the walls and the dimensions of the floor. Bathroom at the top view is rarely square, more often rectangular. In the first case it will be enough to measure the length under one wall, and in the second - under two. After calculating the perimeter of the room, multiply it by the height of the walls to obtain the total area.

The area of ​​the entire room will be subtracted from the dimensions of the doorway, the windows, the exhaust port and the wall area that the bath closes. It by the way should be put in the last place, but for now you can screw mounting profiles on the wall at the level of its upper edge.

If the room has a non-standard shape and it has niches, vaulted walls and columns, then all elements must be measured separately. We do not need to get exact values ​​of their area, there are quite enough rough estimates to determine the consumption of the facing material. Total to the area of ​​solid rectangular sections of the walls we add dimensions of elements of complex shape. We need to round up the result obtained.

Based on the results of the measurements, we draw up a schematic plan of the bathroom. Or, with their consideration, we can ask designers to simulate the project, which shows the finished view of the room after the cladding. If desired, it can display the location of sanitary ware, furniture, other interior items.

Depending on the way the ceramic tile is laid, the material consumption and the speed of work can change. You can choose the most suitable method from the offered variants:

1. Standard;
2. Diagonally;
3. With offset;
4. Parquet laying
5. Modular laying

Choose the facing method you need carefully. Not each of them is suitable for tiles with a certain direction of the picture. Now we will examine in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of them.

Widely used method for facing both the floor and the walls. Assumes laying of fragments with even horizontal and vertical rows of the joint in the joint. An important condition for accurate stacking is keeping the level horizontally and vertically. For this, straight angles are checked by a triangle, and deviations from the vertical and horizontal by the building level.

The standard way is glued rectangular and square tiles, and it is also convenient when installing tiles in large sizes. For a richer design, you can add a concentric pattern from the fragments or alternate the rows of different colors. The method itself is easy to learn and saves a decent amount of time. But, at the same time, has its drawbacks:

• The method is suitable only for tiles without seams and regular shapes;
• Requires no defects in tinting and plate thickness;
• The veneer pattern will be somewhat monotonous.

It will be easy for you to achieve a quality result with standard packing if you keep a smooth seam between rows and adjust the corners of the corners of adjacent fragments.

As is clear from the title, the rows of tiles will line up diagonally with a slope to the surfaces at 45 degrees. Due to this lining, the distance between the corners of the plane is visually stretched. When the diagonal direction of the rows is visually aligned non-perpendicular to each other walls and floor.

The method is not as simple as the previous one, it implies an accurate fit with respect to the angle of incidence and the pruning of a large amount of material on the wall sections. Laying diagonally takes more time than other methods.

This type of masonry will require the development of an accurate scheme taking into account the actual dimensions of the tiles and walls. All tiles should be the same size, on the faces do not have protrusions and chips. It is more rational to make a choice in favor of a square tile in this way of laying.

For the convenience of work, the first row of cladding is laid in the standard way. In it put tiles of a rectangular shape with a length equal to the diagonal of square pieces of the main masonry. On a row of rectangular pieces hypotenuse down put triangular halves of square tiles. From them, the rows of solid squares will be built one after another. It is important to evenly join the edges of adjacent pieces, so that their vertices lie on one straight line. Verify the horizontal and vertical rows of the level and, if necessary, fix the glued tiles.

You can spread out the rows in two ways:

• In the slope. In this case, it is easy to step aside and deviate from the angle of 45 degrees. Do not put the tiles yourself in this way, unless you are an experienced tiler.
• Horizontally. This method is easier and you will not be difficult to properly place the fragments of the cladding. Just set the horizontal and vertical angles of each in a straight line.

The finished surface pattern after such a facing resembles a bricklay. It will be very appropriate if you have chosen a material with a three-dimensional surface stylized as a natural stone or wood. This method is applicable mainly to rectangular tiles, but also in the case of square fragments, too, will look organically.

Placing tiles on the principle of brickwork will look equally good both on the walls and on the floor. It is desirable to select a single-color material for it.

Stacking, as in the case of the traditional method, is carried out horizontally, beginning with the second lower row. The main feature in the laying process will be to keep the specified width of the seam between the tiles so as not to leave too wide a gap at the walls.

Place the next row above the previous one with the condition that the seam of the lower joining pieces falls on the middle of the whole rectangles of the upper row. The laying will best start from the middle to level the bottom seam along the center of the tile.

As the lining laid out in this way strongly resembles the pattern of the parquet board, it is more suitable for the floor.

On vertical planes, this will be problematic, and the side walls will visually bend under such a pattern.

A characteristic pattern is laid out using only a rectangular tile. The effect from it will be brighter if two types of plates of different colors are intermixed in the ornament.

Parquet laying is found in 2 types:

1. Ordinary Herringbone, where the rows go zigzag;
2. Christmas tree with a nail, where the main tiles are lined around a smaller square.

The specific pattern of parquet masonry is excellent for rooms where the walls are not joined at right angles or have a complex shape. The tiles with the texture of natural wood, warm tones or the contrast combination of plates of black and white are most acceptable for such a pattern. In the scheme of facing, "herringbone with a stick" will look more saturated and dark colors.

The process of the implementation of parquet laying is somewhat similar to the installation of a diagonal. It will be necessary to cut the whole piece along a line drawn from the corner to the middle of the opposite larger side of the rectangle. From the resulting pieces, an equilateral triangle forms. Having received the necessary number of such triangles, we put them to the wall. So we get the first row, on top of which we lay out the subsequent zigzag.

Modular installation due to a large number of components makes the interior of a small bath more detailed and rich. Drawings of modules can be added to complex geometric shapes, mottled mosaics or even whole pictures. To effectively use the free space of the room and bring a creative element in them, we advise you to resort to the help of designers in the arrangement of bathrooms. They will design for you an individual design.

At the same time, you can perform work on modular styling yourself, using the ready-made maps. They are included in the assembly kits of the module and are sold in specialized ceramic tile stores.

In the process of collecting the module from the components, it is necessary to follow the exact scheme. The dimensions of the tiles with different patterns and colors should be displayed in your plan as accurately as possible. When assembling, you certainly need to expose the corners under the triangle and clearly adhere to the width of all the seams.

Simulations of modular assembly suggest you get rid of the need to calculate everything yourself. Their front side already contains a modular grid of decorative elements. There is a large variety of layouts and design styles, so you will not be limited in the choice.

In calculating the amount of consumable material, it is important to accurately determine the area to be covered with tiles. For this purpose, the area of ​​the floor and walls is calculated and from them all areas where the facing is not placed are subtracted: the sections of the walls behind the bathroom and the shower, the door and window openings, the ventilation openings.

When calculating the floor and walls of irregular shape, conditionally break them into a combination of areas in the form of simple geometric figures: triangles, rectangles, trapezoids. Calculate the individual areas of the plots, sum them and round them up.

For clarity and better understanding of the location of the fragments in the future layout, follow it in accordance with the scale. Draw a patterned grid to see how many solid pieces will fit on the wall, and where they will have to be cut.

In advance, calculate the floor area, the resulting figure is better rounded to the nearest in square meters.

For example, based on the results of measurements, we calculated that the floor occupies 8 m2.When choosing a tile, you stopped at the tile with a square shape measuring 35x35 cm. The area of ​​one such fragment will be equal to 0.123 m2.We calculate the number of fragments of the tile, for which we divide the total area by 0.123.Total received 65 pieces.

Knowing that an integer number of fragments along the length does not fit and inevitable pruning, we add to the received quantity a stock of 8-10 percent to have a reserve. Taking into account the material volume calculated by us, we obtain 71.5 as a result. Round the number of tiles to the whole and, as you can see, for the flooring we need 72 tiles.

It is important to remember that tiles of this format are packed in 10 pieces per pack. If it is not possible to purchase individual fragments one by one, then it will be more correct to purchase the required number of packs with the amount of material larger than the calculated one. The standard number of plates in one package is 5, 7, 8, 10 and 12.

The calculation procedure for wall finishing is almost the same as for floor calculations. Knowing the height and perimeter of the bathroom, calculate the total area. From it we subtract the sizes of the sections hidden behind the bathroom, and the dimensions of the door frame with window frames.

Some difficulties arise if the pattern of laying involves alternating rows of tiles of different colors, embossing decorative plates and edging with a pencil or curb. Here we need a visual diagram.

On paper or in a graphic editor, draw one tile of tile masonry. On it, mark in different colors or numerals plates with different patterns and colors, borders, decor. The perimeter of the room is divided by the width of one plate in order to get the amount of tiles for laying in a continuous row. In the places where a number of apertures or cuts are interrupted on the projections, respectively, take away and add their lengths to the perimeter.

Calculate the number of tiles for each individual type of tile round to the whole and increase by 5% to have a stock. We will repeat all of the above to calculate the costs for each row, if several rows of identical tiles are stacked, then we will sum them among themselves.

The methods described so far for calculating the flow rate of a tile are applicable if you follow a standard laying or a series offset scheme. Similarly, for a diagonal way of laying, the number of tiles will be incorrect.

Diagonal styling in the professional environment of tilers is known as one of the most costly in terms of material. One-piece plates will be cut very often and cut off in large numbers as the rows are laid out, therefore the size of the cut-off parts will have to be adjusted from time to time, and where to discard at a high level of variability.

It is easy enough to count the tile if you draw a drawing with the marking of its laying on millimeter paper. Whole fragments can be counted in order, but with those that are cut in the shape of a triangle, everything is quite simple.

If a rectangular shaped tile is used for the work, then the triangle per pruning will be a quarter of the sheet. When the pattern is laid out from the square sheets, then, when pruning, they are divided in half. From here it is easy to count how many whole tiles you will have to undercut.

Let's look at the number of curbs and pencils for the planned cladding. The perimeter, which is being laid, is divided by the width of the element. That is, in our case, 11.4 divide by 0.25.As a result, the nearest integer was 46. This figure will correspond to the exact number of curbs.

Since the pencil will be installed on the top and bottom of the curb strip, it will need twice as many - 92 pieces.

For the best quality result, the prepared walls and floor are leveled into a plane with no more than 3 mm differences. Then the tile is placed on the minimum layer of glue, which only attaches it to the base. The required layer thickness in this case is 5 mm.

It is less desirable to apply the mixture and lay the tile on a surface where the swings reach 30 mm. Glue in this situation does not just fix the tile to the walls, but also fills the voids and aligns the working plane as a whole. Stacking is done with a thick layer and entails additional consumption of the mixture.

Minimize the consumption of glue will help in particular laying on a smooth surface with a small number of pores and roughness. Due to the porous structure, untreated cement walls absorb more of the liquid mixture than smooth concrete and gypsum plasterboard. Not to mention the fact that the latter well helps to level the imperfect walls.

The thickness of the applied layer is directly proportional to the dimensions of the ceramic tile. The proportion is approximately the following if the laying takes place on the adhesive with a cement base:

• For a square 10x10 tile - up to 2 mm of glue mixture;
• For squares with a side from 20 to 30 cm - 2-3.5 mm of glue;
• Plates in sizes from 30х30 to 50х50 cm - from 3.5 to 4.5 mm of glue;
• Plates are larger than 50x50 - a layer of the order of 4-5 mm;
• For slabs with a side of more than 60 cm, an additional layer of glue is applied to the back surface.

The desired height of the adhesive layer is assured by the different tooth sizes of the spatula. The standard height of these teeth is 6, 8, 10 and 12 mm.

Since, it is not possible to apply a layer with an exactly flat flat spatula, the glue is smoothed with a notched trowel to obtain a layer of equal height and to remove excess solution.

Given that the spatula will be convenient to conduct at an angle of 45 degrees, you automatically output grooves of adhesive of the desired height. A layer with a height equal to half the height of the teeth will be obtained.

Therefore, to work with tiles 30X30 you need a spatula with prongs not less than 8mm, for tiles 50x50 - with teeth 10-12mm, etc.

Modern adhesive mixtures are divided into 3 types:

1. With cement base;
2. Dispersion glue;
3. Epoxy adhesive.

Mixtures with a cement base in addition to the cement itself contain astringent additives. For the preparation use pure water with the addition of latex primers. Cement mixes are used everywhere because of the cheapness and convenience of work. Area 1 m2 can be uniformly covered with a layer 1 mm thick at a consumption of 1-1.9 kg of dry cement mixture.

Dispersion glue is sold in the form of a ready-made solution based on resins. You will not need to dilute the purchased composition from you. This type is convenient in that it is not necessary to withstand the proportion and mix the mixture in several passes. Higher cost in comparison with cement glue is compensated by half the consumption of dispersion solution.

Epoxy adhesive is a set of synthetic resin and catalyst. Two substances are mixed in a predetermined proportion and form a ready-to-use adhesive mixture. This type of mixture very firmly grips with any surface, is adapted for high mechanical loads and the influence of aggressive media. Shrinkage of epoxy does not give much. The consumption of this material is high( from 1.5 to 3.5 kg per m2), but the quality of the surface connection and operating conditions are not comparable with other types of mixtures.

So, for our example, let's try to determine the consumption of dry cement glue for the finishing of walls and floor. The size of our tiles for walls 25x35 cm means that the optimal layer of the solution will be 3-3.5 mm. For this thickness, a minimum flow of 3.5 kg / m2 is required.

The area of ​​the walls with a perimeter of 12 m and a ceiling height of 2.5 m is 30 m2.After subtracting the doorway 2.06 x 0.6 m, the surface area for laying the tiles will be 29 m2.Multiplying the given glue consumption on the finishing area, we get 101.5 kg.

We can easily calculate the expense for laying floor tiles. For fragments with dimensions 35x35 cm, glue consumption per 1 sq. M.m. practically the same as for walls - 3.5 kg. The total amount of dry mix for the floor covering is 8 m2 - 28 kg.

In total, you need at least 130 kg of dry mix to complete the work in the bathroom, which is equivalent to 6 bags, if taken with a margin.

It is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on the determination of grout mass for joints. The amount of the mixture is determined by the dimensions of the joints( width and depth), the quality of stripping them from adhesive residues, the smoothness of the stitching.

In addition to the seam dimensions, the consumption of the trowelling mix directly depends on the size of the tile fragments. The averaged flow rate can be derived from the formula:

( A + B) /( AxB) x C x D x 1.6 [kg / m2], where

• A is the length of the tile, mm;
• B - tile width, mm;
• C-thickness of the tile, mm;
• D - joint width, mm.

Next, it only remains to multiply the resulting number by the total size of the surface.

In our example, walls with an area of ​​29 m2, covered with tiles with a size of 25x35 cm with a joint width of 2 mm, will be used for grouting:

( 350 + 250) /( 350x250) x 7 x 2 x 1.6 = 0.154 kg / m2

Hence the volume of drygrout for sealing seams on the entire surface is 0.154 * 29 = 4.466 kg.