Metal siding. Installation instructions

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Metal siding or metal siding is a lining made of galvanized steel. It is covered with polymers of several varieties with a wide range of colors.

Contents

  • General properties of metal siding
  • Metal siding. Instructions for the preparatory stage
  • Specification for the installation of metal siding
  • Self-leveling with metal siding. Work with the facade
  • Mounting of metal siding with their own hands
  • Recommendations of experienced masters

General properties of metal siding

1. Common types and scope of material:

  • metal siding is equipped with snap locks for easy installation;
  • on panels with a perforated surface in advance make holes for screws and nails;
  • on smooth siding surfaces, the holes are carried out independently. Apply siding of this type for assembling panels with sections of non-standard sizes;

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  • figured siding is used to create a pattern or decoration of one wall;
  • wide and smooth panels are most often used for self-installation. They do not require professional skills, they are quickly selected, exposed on any inclined surface, unlike other species;
  • the preferred method of laying the metal siding is vertical. It allows you to avoid cracks between sheets, use material economically, use less sealant to process joints;
  • professional application of metal siding allows you to create real artistic design works of buildings. Such an opportunity is given by additional elements, for example, corners, internal or external corners, brackets, platbands.

2. Advantages of the material:

  • the material is resistant to temperature difference, has the lowest coefficient of temperature expansion;
  • non-combustible building material. Used as an additional protection against fires;
  • high corrosion and chemical resistance. Used in aggressive environments;
  • environmental and safe material;
  • well withstands mechanical impact, is used to protect the exposed parts of a building;
  • installation of panels with application of a heat-insulating layer of a material, allows to warm, ennoble an exterior of a building;
  • easy easy installation. Do not need professional skills and sophisticated tools.

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Metal siding. Instructions for the preparatory stage

1. Work tool:

  • drill electric or manual;
  • screwdriver or screwdriver;
  • level of construction;
  • hammer;
  • gloves;
  • block 40x40 mm counting to produce by the number of sheets of siding;
  • self-tapping screws, dowel-nails, self-tapping screws with sealing head;Leveling brackets.

2. Surface treatment:

  • to release the work surface from hinged furnishings and decorative ornaments;
  • wallpaper wet with water and gently remove. Wash the oil paint with a soap solution and dry it. Old plaster tap with a hammer for voids;
  • prepare the material for sealing of cracks, depressions, depressions. Repair all irregularities. Dry it;
  • treat the surface with an antibacterial agent in 2 layers.

Specification of mounting of metal siding

1. Additional elements, as the original architectural solution:

The calculation of the required number of sheets is made based on standard material sizes of 10 m. The height of the room from the skirting to the ceiling minus 2 cm is considered. These 2 cm are then closed with decorative additionalelements:

  • using volumetric angles at the junction of walls, you can create a voluminous relief and unusual design;
  • docking strip, affixed symmetrically to the width of the wall, will give a beautiful architectural solution;
  • a wide casing around the perimeter of the window or aperture is completely replaced by a thin elegant slat strip;
  • tints can be very carefully and harmoniously cover the window slopes.

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2. Siding for metal siding:

  • professional installation of metal panels begins with the installation of the battens. For its manufacture, take wooden slats or metal profiles;
  • wooden grill is cheaper, but has a lot of drawbacks. It absorbs moisture, swells, rots, "is eaten up by a fungus," changes its configuration under the weight;
  • grating made of metal profile is more expensive, but more durable than natural material;
  • when installing a crate, it is necessary to use the water level or level and plumb line. Output exactly all the elements horizontally and vertically;
  • on an uneven surface there are always elevations. Fastening to such a wall of rails or profile is made with the help of special metal brackets. They successfully compensate for uneven surfaces and form the optimal plane under the crate;
  • recommended step between beam cross bars from 400 to 600 mm;
  • insulation for laying under siding is selected by the width of the step of the crate. The heater is placed in the crate, fix it and cover it with a waterproofing film. You can shoot a film with a stapler. Joints are glued with tape so that moisture does not penetrate.

3. How to set the first bar: The

  • horizontality of the first bar, affects the correct installation of all subsequent panels. Installation is carried out according to the level;
  • the beginning of work, the installation of the first strip starts from the bottom of the wall, measure the distance 4 cm above the edge of the bottom panel;
  • fix the bar on the crate with rivets or screws;
  • further fixes the outer, inner corners and strips. Using a plumb bob, all elements are exposed as precisely as possible vertically, and then fastened to the crate.

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4. Practical mounting tips:

  • mounting direction from top to bottom;
  • the bottom panel is snapped on the first( initial) bar, screwed with screws to the crate;
  • is screwed with self-tapping screws after checking for a full snap of the strap over the entire length;
  • screws are screwed into the center of the holes. This leaves the freedom to move the panel a few mm with possible deformation from temperatures;
  • spinning screws, leave under the hat 1-1.5 mm of free space. Do not twist them to the end;
  • trim the panels along the length so that they fit freely into the latch and the corner. The clearance between the butt and the vertical should not be more than 9 mm on both sides.

Self-leveling with metal siding. Work with the facade

1. The initial stage. Preparation of the facade surface:

  • to conduct a visual inspection of the facade surface. Remove the crumbling plaster, check the strength of the brickwork by tapping. Trim curly plants, remove shutters or shutters. Remove the structural elements supporting the drainpipes, cornices;
  • construction level check the surface of the walls for smoothness, measure the corners to match with 90 degrees;
  • for uneven wall buy the material of the battens: wooden or metal slats. The cladding will smooth out the swings and eliminate the distortions in the siding finish.

2. Installation of metal siding on the crate:

  • should immediately decide on what siding is for. If it performs only the function of decor, then put the crate and cover with sheets. If work is done on sheltering the house, it is better to perform high-quality insulation for metal sheets;
  • laying insulation is made to keep the heat in the cold season and keep cool air indoors in the heat;
  • insulation must be protected from moisture. Install additional membrane-type hydro-protection with anticondensation properties;
  • is the optimal choice - fiber with basalt inclusions. It is characterized by non-inflammability, resistance to moisture and chemical attack. The cost of fiber is high. It can be replaced with mineral wool with a fiberglass structured insert. The material has good indicators of moisture and antifungal resistance. The only drawback - flammability class G3;
  • , depending on the shape and condition of the surface, the insulation is fixed to the facade with wire or dowels;
  • The photo below demonstrates the scheme of diffuse film installation:

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Tip: The film must be mounted only on top of the insulation material.

Tip: The density of the laying depends on the quality and type of the film material: for a film with a thickness of 10 μm, a gap of 3 / 3.5 - 5 cm is left.

3. Assembly rules for additional structural elements:

  • determine the total height of the skin by metal siding. Using the level set 5-6 marks on the bottom and top perimeter of the surface;
  • attach the initial( starting) bar by 4 cm above the line of the exhibited general level;
  • the second bar is fixed to 6 mm higher. Such an installation will reduce the overlap;
  • the last( finishing) bar is fastened closely to the ledge;
  • accurately and clearly set up a complex docking bar, use a corner;
  • the next stage is the installation of laths around the openings. Beginning of laying is done from the bottom up;
  • lay the protective layer against the ingress of rain, snow, fog under the ventilated facade: cover the corners with any universal sealing material.

Mounting the metal siding with your own hands

1. Prepare the metal siding - remove the protective film from its surface.

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2. Begin laying the panels from the corner of the building.

3. Using self-tapping screws, attach them to the crate. Start fixing from the center. Align the sheet by level in the horizontal or vertical, and then mount the bottom.

4. Self-tapping screws do not twist "tightly".There must be an air gap between the top of the element and the sheet. This is necessary to create a compensating movement of the cladding materials when heated or cooled.

5. The first row is attached to the starting strip by the bottom lock.

6. When installing the finish panel under the apertures, first attach it to the window / door element and mark the place for the trims and the size of the window itself.

7. The marked figures must be cut with a hacksaw or a Bulgarian.

8. Insert the finished sheet into the bar near the window, snap into the bottom row of the panels exposed under the opening.

9. The panels under the cornice are stacked in the same sequence.

Recommendations of experienced masters

1. The success of high-quality, ideal laying of metal siding begins with surface preparation. It should be perfect after processing with building materials.

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2. Select the profile pitch of 300 - 400 mm. This is the optimal value.

3. Consider the ability of the siding material to expand / contract under the influence of external factors. Leave an interval of at least 5 mm between the sheets, but not more than 8 mm. Fasten the sheet not to the stop, leave a gap between the fasteners and the surface.

4. Installation of metal scoring always start from the center of the site towards the corners.

5. Laying of the crate and the first strips is done from the bottom up.

6. Fasten first in the center of the sheet. Checked by level. Then the left and right sheet is attached. After that, the bottom and top of the sheet are fixed.

Common mistakes when laying a metal siding with your own hands:

1. No gap is left between nail / dowel head and panel surface. In operation, the material will begin, at best, to produce clicking sounds during expansion or compression. In the worst case, deformation will begin, the surface design will be visually disturbed, bulges or hollows will appear. If you do not eliminate the blemish, the sheets will begin to "move out".

2. The original design of the panels is provided by a special edge. Hard fixation of this element is required. Mounting in the center leads to the displacement of the strip under the influence of temperature differences.

3. Use metal sizing for the purpose. The scope of use of the material, recommended by the manufacturer, is the finishing of industrial, construction structures for non-residential purposes. Finishing of garages, hangars, household buildings. Do not trim the interior of the premises, such as a hall, bedroom, kitchen.

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Comparison of the cost of work in professional firms:

1. Video instructions for installation work with metal siding from $ 60.

2. Siding installation:

  • surface preparation, removal of old finish from 1-1.25 $ per m2;
  • old plaster riveting manually from 1.8-2.9 $ per m2;
  • surface cleaning with sandblasting unit from 2.4 - 2.6 $ per m2;
  • cleaning with hydro-jet method from $ 3.2 per m2;
  • chemical wash from 5.4 $ per m2;
  • masonry repair with partial disassembly and restoration from $ 10 per m2;
  • cladding with steel siding from 2.52 $ per m2;
  • surface insulation, depending on the material, from 2.1 to 5.2 $ per m2.

Cost of material per m2 in construction companies:

  • siding made of South Korean metal with a range of colors: oak, alder, pine from $ 10;
  • siding for exterior decoration, without perforation with gamma: white, cherry, red, graphite from $ 12;
  • metal siding made of galvanized steel with a polymer coating for a tree from 8.5-15.8 $.

The selection of the material will be facilitated, if you determine in advance its purpose: for design finishing, for restoration or protection of walls.

Metal siding, the photo below, shows how you can change the appearance and create an original architectural object:

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Mounting the metal siding video tutorial on the correct installation of the initial strip:

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