We build a reliable fence from the euro-barrel with our own hands - a step-by-step instruction

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Knowing all the "truthfulness" of any advertisement, we have long had a negative attitude to such a variety of "agitki".But what concerns the merits of a metal fence( it is also called a "euro-barrel"), in many respects it is quite justified and fair. Before you understand the nuances of erecting a fence from this product, you need to understand what it is.

By and large, these are metal strips that have a protective layer of polymer compositions. There are no standards for their manufacture, but the most common samples are with such linear parameters: length - from 150 to 300, width - 10( cm).

Let's consider the basic varieties of the "euro-barrel", which is used for erecting fences:

According to

  • production technology Cutting of corrugated sheets( read about the fence from this material).
  • Individual production of samples by the rolling mill method.

Profiles

By the end parts of the

  • Cut-off.
  • Rolled( rounded).

According to the protective coating

  • Single-sided.
  • Double sided.

Based on the

  • "Zinced" material.
  • Copper( the cost is very high).

Although this information is not directly related to the topic of the article, but now the features of the independent construction of the fence from the metal fence will become more clear.

fence-of-metal fence

Selection of materials

Naturally, it will primarily be about the pillars. Considering the aesthetic appeal of the "Euroshield", it is advisable to stop the choice on metal workpieces. Which ones to use? Most often, the owners of the sites under the poles acquire a profile pipe( with a square cross-section) or screw piles.




pillar

The latter option is more convenient in that it eliminates the need to perform a significant amount of excavation, which, incidentally, is not always possible. For example, on the already arranged territory, besides with areas covered with asphalt or tiles( situations are different).And the total cost of such a fence will be cheaper, as building materials( cement, gravel, ASG) will not be needed for concreting the buried supports.

As guides, you can use strip iron or a profile pipe with a small cross-section. By the way, such lags are available. Their length is from 2 to 12 m, so it's not difficult to choose the required amount.

How to work

Layout of the territory

As a rule, the distance between poles is chosen according to their height and overall site design. The recommended interval between them is about 1.8 m. If it increases, there is a risk that the fence will "play".

shema

Installation of

supports. It's quite simple work - piles are screwed into the ground. If pipes are used, the holes are scooped out, after which the supplied support is covered with solid fractions( crushed stone, brick or concrete battles), the whole mass is compacted and filled with cement mortar. For gates and wickets, it is advisable to install "own", personal poles.

When using pipes, it is desirable to weld a metal plate to the bottom end. It will help to fix the support in the ground more firmly.

In addition, you need to think about how to seal the top ends of the pillars, otherwise they will accumulate water. Options - to weld mugs of metal, install plastic "plugs".

Fastening of

clamping guideways The basic - two;one above, the other below( horizontally).If the fence is high enough, then in the center it is necessary to lay a third metal strip. It will perform the function of a stiffener, since the metal fence itself has a relatively small thickness and is deformed from the mechanical action.

The guides are welded to the supports, so they are pre-leveled by level or level. Another question is at what height do they need to be located? Usually the bottom is fixed about half a meter from the soil, and the upper one is 25 cm below the upper cut of the fence. Although this is just an example, and the master performs the installation, in accordance with the specifics of the work.

Before the beginning of this stage it is necessary to make a marking of the guides and drill holes for fastening the fence strips.

Painting the frame

Given that the fence is located in the open air, it is better to use paint and varnish compositions with an acrylic base. Previously, all the "iron" is degreased and treated with a primer. This ensures that the paint will lie flat and hold for a long time.

Installation of snap-on

They are fixed with screws. Given their number, it is advisable to work with a screwdriver. As the straps spread along the perimeter, the owner decides for himself. But here you need to take into account the height of the fence and what is behind it. If beds, then the gap between the pins is desirable to do more( will cost about 1,150 rubles / m.).This will additionally increase the illumination of the adjacent territory. The installation of a "blind" fence will require more metal bars, fasteners and lead to an increase in the cost of construction( up to 1,900 rubles / m.).Therefore, you need to choose the best option, based on the specifics of the site.

fence

Canopy gates and wickets

How to do this depends on the design. Fastening loops either on bolts, or by welding.

If everything is done neatly, then such a fence does not require even a cosmetic repair for 25 years, at least.

Useful advices for

  • If financial possibilities permit, it makes sense to buy ready-made frames( logs + supports).Fastening of all elements is made by bolts.
  • To prevent damage to the protective layer of the slats by screws during the fixation of the flange, plastic rings( gaskets) must be placed under the heads of the fasteners. And the hardware is taken only galvanized.

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