Instructions for installing a natural and forced ventilation system in a private house

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Fresh air in the house is vital. And if the residents of the apartments, using central ventilation, do not even think about air exchange( for them there is supply ventilation), then when building a house, decide how the air will flow into the rooms and remove the burning products from the kitchen and unpleasant smells from other rooms,need at the design stage.

Ventilation project

There are several options for ventilation in a private house.

  1. Natural ventilation is the simplest and does not require large-scale investments and works. It is based on the movement of air currents due to the temperature difference. It is based on vertical ventilation ducts, which can be in the house several and supply valves or slots in the doors and windows. The disadvantages of such ventilation are low efficiency and large heat loss in winter, as warm air from the room quickly leaves at negative temperatures on the street.
  2. Forced ventilation is a choice for large cottages and houses with several bathrooms, a swimming pool and maintained cellars. It is more expensive to install, and its operation requires electricity, but you can forget about drafts, stale air and noise from the street."Advanced" systems can heat or cool the air, filter it, including pollen, and regulate humidity.

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When designing a ventilation system for a house, it is necessary to take into account:

  • what is its total area,
  • how far apart are the rooms,
  • , what is usually the strength of wind and temperature at different times of the year( at low temperatures the thrust increases, and at high and no wind at allcan disappear),
  • what windows and doors are planned to be delivered,
  • how will the house be heated,
  • what devices that increase the oxygen consumption will be used, etc.?

In a kitchen equipped with a gas cooker, at least 70 cubic meters per hour and at least 50 cubic meters per hour must flow. If there is an oven, then the air exchange should be even higher. In the second place there are bathrooms and toilets, in them air exchange should be 50-30 cubic meters per hour, depending on the area. For rooms, this figure is 15-30 cubic meters per hour.

Installation of natural ventilation

Even during the construction in the walls of the kitchen, dining room, bathrooms and rooms, remote from these premises and having tightly closed doors, ventilation pipes are laid or channels for them are left. Also vent pipes are laid in all rooms without windows. They come in steel and aluminum, but the most preferred option for private construction is polypropylene or plastic. The diameter of the ventilation pipes is 100-250 mm.




Beginning of the pipes can be in the basement, so it will happen and its ventilation, but go out on the roof, ending no lower than the ridge. In ventilated rooms in such a pipe a slot is made and a grid is installed, at the outer end of the pipe a deflector is mounted. The thickness of the ventilation duct depends on the area of ​​the room and the amount of incoming air. Its turns and constrictions significantly reduce the thrust, and therefore undesirable.

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In addition to air exhaust, it is necessary to ensure its inflow. In the simplest case, this happens through the cracks in the windows or during ventilation. But if modern windows are installed, plastic or wooden, the house can not breathe through them. Periodic ventilation will not solve the problems if the window is under construction or a driveway. Provide oxygen supply through the supply valves in the windows or in the walls below them.

Natural ventilation in rooms and rooms without vent pipes is not possible with a tight-fitting door. Under it there should be a gap of 1-1.5 cm or a ventilation grille.

Even with good natural ventilation in the kitchen, it is necessary to install a hood, which can be taken out immediately to the street. In the bathrooms, fans are mounted on the grilles in ventilation ducts working on blowing.

With a high dryness of the air in the premises, a musty smell and a constant feeling of bad health, it can be concluded that the air intake is not enough, and install an additional supply valve or keep the window constantly ajar. The increased humidity and mold in the house indicate that the outflow of air is insufficient. After the construction is over, this defect is more difficult to compensate, so the installation of a forced ventilation system will be the way out.

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Installation of forced ventilation

If drafts with open windows and large heat loss do not suit, you will have to install forced ventilation. It is almost indispensable in a large house with a lot of "wet" zones and isolated rooms, because a lot of ventilation pipes on the roof do not look very attractive.

Mechanical forced ventilation consists of:

  • of the supply and exhaust ventilation unit( it is better with a heat exchanger that allows to warm the incoming air from the street with the heat of the waste one),
  • air intake,
  • intake air ducts with anemostats,
  • exhaust ducts with ventilation grilles,
  • totalvent pipe with a deflector.

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Installation of forced ventilation is best done in the construction of the house, but, in extreme cases, the ventilation ducts can be masked by a false ceiling or plasterboard boxes.

The heart of the system is a unit for supply and exhaust ventilation in which air filtration, its heating, control system and fans are located. Optimum to arrange it on the warmed attic - so the extent of ventilating channels will be less. If this is not possible, any utility room connected to the mains supply is suitable. It should be noted that the supply and exhaust unit is very noisy, therefore it is not worthwhile to install it near the bedrooms.

4 pipes run from the main unit. One of them air comes from the air intake, the second - distributed through the rooms, the third - is taken from them, and the fourth - leaves the house through a pipe on the roof. The air intake is mounted on the outer wall of the house so that the distance to the vent pipe with the deflector, the fireplace and chimneys, and the sewer risers is not less than 10 m. It must be at least 150 cm from the ground and not covered with snow. On the air intake put a fine mesh of debris and insects.

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The ventilation ducts themselves are then mounted. To do this, use the same air ducts as for a natural ventilation system. To the block they are connected through flexible corrugated pipes, the length of which should not exceed 1 m, so the vibrations from the block will not spread to the rooms. All ducts are thermally insulated to avoid condensation and reduce noise. The noise level decreases and with the increase in the length of the pipes, which is taken into account in the design. The opening of the supply pipe is located in the room closer to the windows or on the opposite side of the door, the exhaust - at the other end.

In all rooms, the grilles are installed at the ends of the air ducts. The supply pipes end with rosettes-anemostats, through which the air is spreading in all directions, and the intensity of supply can be regulated. The exhaust ducts are installed with conventional ventilation grilles.

The forced ventilation system must be serviced periodically, cleaning the channels and changing the filters.

Correctly selected and working ventilation system will not only preserve the repair and health of residents, but also make the atmosphere truly home.

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