Installing a heated towel rail in the bathroom: how to install it by yourself

Heated towel -in any bathroom;helps to eliminate excessive dampness, maintain hygiene and, of course, dry personal belongings and towels.

In the case of replacing the old plumbing with a new one and the need for finishing work in the bathroom, it makes sense to think about replacing the old towel heater with a new one that is more aesthetic. Current manufacturers offer a wide choice of design and design of these devices. They have increased durability and reliability in combination with an elegant appearance.

Before buying a new bathroom coil, pay close attention to the material from which it is made and the design features.

Depending on the operating principle, the following types of dryers are distinguished:

• Running on water. Can be connected to a heating or hot water supply system. Favorable in that they allow you to minimize the fee for utilities;
• Powered by mains. Independent of the supply of heating and hot water and durable( no corrosion).Easily installed in a convenient place for you, the main thing is that there was a power source nearby.
• Combined. They represent a combination of the previous 2 types: during the heating season, hot water circulates along the contour, and in periods without heating it is possible to turn on the TEN for heating the water.

By type of construction, the devices are divided into:

• Horizontal. They take the form of a coil that is familiar to us;
• Vertical. Are made in the form of a ladder with crosspieces.

Towel dryers are cast from black and stainless steels, as well as brass and copper. The latter, despite the high cost, have the longest service life. The material should be chosen based on the specific situation.

So in case of connection to the central heating system, the heated towel rails are more suitable. Their design is designed for pressure up to 8 bar and is not afraid of water hammers. In AGV systems, the pressure does not actually exceed 3 bar, so the best choice will be dryers made from chrome-plated brass with various variations in shape and design.

Most modern models are equipped with a Mayevsky crane, which allows the radiator outflow. Even in new designs, a bypass jumper is provided to equalize the pressure in the circuit. Having installed an additional ball valve on the jumper, you can adjust the working temperature of the heated towel for you. It is still possible to install cranes on the supply and withdrawal of the coil for rapid cut-off from the main pipeline in case of dismantling or repair.

Do not forget to pay attention to the installation dimension between the water inlet and outlet ports. Especially when you plan to put a new radiator in place of the old one. Models with distances of 30, 35, 45, 50, 60, 80 cm are found depending on the distance between the centers of the leaks.

The requirements for connecting the heated towel rail to the hot water supply systems are set out in SNiP 2-04-01-85.

The installation itself consists in connecting the inputs and outputs of the radiator circuit with the corresponding connections of the heating pipe or water main using plastic pipes. Pipes, couplings and bends are assembled with a special finger.

You can also use metal-plastic and copper pipes to connect a new product, but here you should take into account a number of features. In half-inch metal-plastic pipes, the diameter of the cross section is smaller than in plastic pipes, and they do not withstand pressure gradients. Copper, despite the durability, will cost a substantial amount, and their welding requires special skills and precautions.

For proper operation of the heated towel rail, a small slope of the supply pipe in the direction of the hot water flow should be ensured. For the entire length of the piping it is 5-10 mm. The flow of water must go from the upper point of the contour of the device to the lower one. To do this, the upper socket of the radiator is connected to the hot water supply pipe.

The gap between the contour pipes and the surface of the walls must be maintained. It is at least 35 mm for pipes up to 23 mm and 50 mm for pipes with a cross section of more than 23 mm. These distances are regulated by the stud bolted into the bracket, but there are fixed fasteners in which this distance can not be changed. The supporting structure should not be fixed rigidly to compensate for the temperature expansion of the pipes and not burden the sections of the wall that support them.

Before installation, check the completeness of your purchase, carefully read the construction and the wiring diagram for the new device, read the instructions attached to it. Prepare all the tools and materials necessary for work, this:

• directly heated towel rail;
• brackets;
• PVC pipes of the desired diameter( 26, 32 mm);
• knife for cutting PVC pipes;
• screwdriver;
• turbine;
• fasteners;
• hammer, construction level;
• 2 adjustable wrench;
• tow or other sealant;
• 2 union solder nuts;Soldering iron for PVC pipes;
• 2-3 ball valves,
• PVC elbows,
• 1 PVC elbow with internal thread,
• 2 tees( if installing jumper),
• 1 female threaded coupling.

coil Please contact the company that services your heating and water supply networks with a request to shut off the water supply during the dismantling period. And only then proceed to the very process of removing the old coil.

Even when removing the old radiator, it is worth paying attention to the wear of the riser to which it was attached. If his condition leaves much to be desired, it makes sense to replace it partially or completely. It will not be superfluous to ask the neighbors' opinions from below and from above, suddenly they will support the idea of ​​changing the riser completely. In any case, even if you are replacing only yourself, you need to do this with the expectation that the old pipes do not remain overlapping and the connection points with the new sections are visible and accessible. Having planned places of a piece, cut the part of the riser together with the coil by the Bulgarian.

At the cut ends of the pipes, it is still necessary to cut the thread and this is useful for the thread-cutting machine. In construction markets and in shops, they are sold or given this tool for rent. Remove the chamfers from the ends of the truncated pipe with a turbine, place the caliber nut in the socket of the tool and, fixing it on the end of the pipe, gradually cut the thread.

Among the pipes for plumbing, steel, copper and polypropylene are most often used. The latter are favorably distinguished by their ease of installation, resistance to corrosion and a favorable price.

Plus, the process of adhesion between propylene pipes is very simple and easy to learn. The following tools are required for self-operation:

1. Soldering iron for welding pipes
2. Set of nozzles for the desired caliber
3. Trimming or cutting pliers
4. Trimming tool
5. Shaver( for removing the aluminum layer from pipes)

We recommend that you purchase a finger in a specialized store in order to be sure of the quality. In the set with the soldering iron there are always nozzles of different sizes and an original stand on which it can be fixed. Reliable welding can only be done with a high-quality device, so it is not advisable to save on it.

At the beginning of the work, make a scheme for yourself considering the size of the sections, the location of tees, cranes and taps. It will be convenient to use it for accuracy of assembly and material saving. Also, the scheme will minimize the number of adhesions on weight.

Cut sections of the required length with a pliers or pipe cutter and apply a chamfer at the ends with a spade cutter. According to the standard, the bevel has a slope of 15 degrees and a length of 2-3 mm. Do not forget to trim the cut edges of the pipes from burrs and crumbs for more reliable welding.

To connect the end of the pipes to the couplers, heat the arms up to 260 degrees and place the elements in the receptacles of the corresponding nozzles. The coupling is put on the pin on one side, and the tube is inserted into the sleeve on the other side. The heating time will be determined by the diameter of the element and the thickness of its walls. It is standardized by international standards and it can be learned from the corresponding tables. Independently, you can determine the availability for soldering by scrolling the element on the heating surface: with sufficient heating, the pipe or coupling will smoothly rotate and without effort be removed from the nozzle.

Connect the heated coupling and pipe immediately after removal from the soldering iron. At the same time, try to expose them exactly in relation to each other and push it all the way, but you do not need to force it. The position of the connected parts can be changed literally within 3-5 seconds after the connection before they finally get to grips.

The bypass jumper, although not a necessary element, can be very helpful in case of need for repair work on the installed towel warmer. An elementary replacement of gaskets at the connection points of the coil to the riser will require shutting off the water supply in it. And this means filing an application with the FSW and additional expenses. Providently included in the wiring diagram jumper and overhead cranes, you can easily cut off the dryer circuit from the main line in case of repair or for economy.

When installing jumpers, you can use either steel, copper or polypropylene pipes. Since working with metal involves a complicated welding procedure, it is more rational to collect a bypass from plastic pipes. To cut off and regulate the flow in the right areas, we need 3 ball valves. Having installed one on the jumper itself, and two on the supply and return fittings can shut off the water supply to the radiator, cut it off from the riser. By adjusting the position of the crane on the bridge, it is possible to reduce or increase the flow of water in the circuit, and thereby adjust the heating temperature.

The installation and connection work is carried out in several stages:

• We cut off the water supply.
• Remove the old coil. In the case if it is connected to the riser thread - unscrew it with adjustable keys. If the coil is welded to the riser - cut it together with the pipe using a turbine.
• We mount ball valves and a jumper.
• We screw the Mayevsky crane into the bypass for the convenience of airing the system.
• Places for future fixings are marked on the wall with a pencil. We set the marks horizontally using the level indicator.
• Drill holes on the marks and drive in them dowels.

• Having exposed the heated towel rail so that the holes match, screw it with a screwdriver. Do not forget to maintain the required distance from the wall to the pipes and adjust it if there is a bracket with a stud.

• We use fittings from the kit for connection to the water supply and return fittings. They can be straight or angular. Threads do not forget to compact the pancake or other winding. You can use the phome for sealing tapered threads. When mounting the device, be sure to set the minimum slope of the piping( 5-10 mm).Tighten the union nuts, pre-laying a soft cloth for the key, so that there are no scratches left. Insert the gaskets into the end of the nut. Tighten smoothly and effortlessly, if there are difficulties with turning the key, unscrew the connection and set the elements to be joined. After tightening the nut to the end, squeeze it slightly, but do not overdo it so as not to break the thread.
• Once the assembly is complete, you can supply water to the radiator. Smoothly open the water supply to avoid a water hammer. Slightly open the valve on the jumper to release air from the pipes. When it starts to dig in, you can close the water. Carefully inspect and iron all welded seams and threaded connections to detect leaks.

As in the considered version with a water dryer, the installation of electric and combined models begins after the dismantling of the old device. Connecting the electric heated towel will have to be done after removing the old device.

It is noteworthy that with the help of a competent approach, you can initially use a heating cable from a central heating system. In this case, the cable with the thermostat will be inserted inside the pipe through the bottom connection of the heated towel rail.

For the correct and safe operation of an electric dryer, several requirements must be adhered to. Energy consumption of TEN will be 1 kW minimum and to connect it you will have to remove a separate outlet. From it, in turn, stretches a wire section of not less than 2.5 squares to the electrical board. The line for powering the TENA is equipped with an automatic fuse.

The key point is the grounding of the heated towel rail. The place for fixing the ground wire, as a rule, is already stipulated by the manufacturer. It remains only to put a protective socket and lay it from the shielded three-wire wire. In case if the grounding through the shielding is not provided for some reason, it is possible to perform "zeroing" - to make a jumper between zero and ground. This grounding is carried out at a minimum distance from the panel.

As you can see, the installation and connection of electric and combined dryers will require certain skills and knowledge to work with wiring. Do this yourself or trust the experience of professionals - it's up to you. Soberly assess your strengths and do not take risks if you are not sure of a qualitative result.