Siding by yourself

Siding of various types is becoming more popular in exterior decoration of house facades. This is completely justified, since it updates the building and gives the a completely different look. Siding panels are made of different materials, and each kind of this finish has its pros and cons. But there is also a "common denominator" - all of them are simple to install, so the transformation of the house is quite fast. In addition to the aesthetic appearance, the advantage of siding over other finishing materials is that the finished facade does not require special care for many years.

Saidi nng with their hands is easy enough to mount. The main - correctly carry out the preparatory work, study the instruction for its installation and fully adhere to all technological operations.

However, first of all it is necessary to understand which types of siding are the most popular, and which qualities they possess.

types of modern siding

If does not take as an natural wood, then the three types of siding - metal, polymer and fiber-cement are the most popular for the exterior cladding of a house.

Metal siding

This kind of finishing material is made of galvanized steel sheet, which is then coated with anti-corrosive polymer compounds. Such a coating has different colors, it can simulate the texture patterns of other finishing materials - wood or stone.

Metal siding can have different relief shapes. In addition to the traditional " Christmas tree ", panels are produced that simulate the shape of the board, logs( block house) or chips of natural stone of various breeds.

Metal siding is used not only for covering the unsightly walls of old houses, but also for creating interesting fences around the plots.

The advantages of the finishing material include its heat resistance, durability and sufficient strength. Siding has a double anticorrosion coating( polymer + zinc), so it is not afraid of moisture and reliably protects the walls of the house for 35 ÷ 50 years. The material is resistant to ultraviolet rays and to low temperatures, it does not crack and does not burn out, retaining its original appearance throughout its operation.

However, in order to maintain the siding for a long time, when mounting the siding you need to carefully handle the fixing points and sections of the cuts, as damage to the polymer coating will cause rust on the metal, which can spread to nearby sections of the siding.

Polymer siding

Polymer siding is made of acrylic and PVC( PVC) plastic, so it is often called vinyl. This finishing material is great for putting the walls of the house in order when they are insulated by the technology of a ventilated facade. It protects the insulation material well from moisture, but when installing it on top of the warm layer, it is necessary to leave a ventilation gap. It can be provided with a wooden crate , on which the siding is fixed.

. Such saudi is made in md in the specified colors, and also in the form of imitation of stone, brick, board and logs with corresponding structural patterns and reliefs.

special socle polymeric siding is manufactured for finishing socle .It differs in that it has a large thickness, but a smaller size of the panels, in comparison with the wall material.

These factors are very important for the reliability of the trim of the lower part of the house, since it is on the that is most affected by the negative effects - mechanical and dirt, precipitation, snow and .

The most common socle vinyl siding imitates rough natural stone or masonry of various colors, which makes the lower part of the house visually more heavy , giving the a reliable appearance to the building.

The TS on has a basement siding that is two or three times higher than conventional vinyl panels, but it is completely justified, as it is more durable and durable.

Vinyl siding does not exfoliate and is not susceptible to corrosion and rot. It is non-toxic and non flammable, is easy to install and has an aesthetic neat appearance.

However, it should be noted that low-quality siding does not withstand the effects of low temperatures and becomes brittle, and with a slight mechanical impact on the it may appear cracks and chips. Therefore, , choosing it, it is very important to pay attention to the main characteristics that must be in the product passport. If there are no technical documents for the siding party, then it is better to refuse such goods.

Fiber-cement siding

Fiber-cement siding is manufactured from cement and cellulose fibers. Due to this, it is able to withstand high and low temperatures, is resistant to deformations and various external influences.

Fibrocement has a pronounced heat resistance, is not susceptible to rotting and corrosion, it is environmentally friendly. This siding has good soundproof qualities - this indicator exceeds the vinyl or metal analog several times.

The minuses can be attributed some hygroscopicity of the material, so before installing it on the wall it is necessary to fix the waterproof film , especially if it is attached over the heater.

In addition, it can not be called its advantages of great weight and high cost. In order for it reliably held on the crate , it is necessary to make the most durable frame under it, which must be strengthened is fastened on the wall.

is produced as siding in the form of flat panels with a width of 190 mm, 10 mm thick, 3600 mm long. Complicating his installation on the wall is the lack of locking joints, which are always present in the siding made of other materials.

Cutting of such siding is carried out with the help of special equipment or grinders with a disk on a stone. Cutting should be done, as accurate as possible and more accurate, as large errors in cutting and installation, can significantly reduce the strength and moisture resistance of the finish.

In a word, fiber-cement siding is good, but its installation is better "given" to professionals.

Having stopped on one of the types of siding, you can proceed to the preparatory measures that need to be carried out on the surface of the walls and the roof gables.

Preparatory work for

The preparatory works include the following activities:

• carrying out gauging the walls and gable of the roof of the house and calculating their areas;
• determination of the required amount of material for finishing;
• preparation of tools for and accessories;
• acquisition of everything necessary for a complete finish;
• preparation of walls - dismantling of wall elements, minor repairs, priming and installation of crate .

is the most popular for home decoration, thanks to ease of mounting and affordable price, in as can for this material.

First you need to determine the area of ​​each of the walls of the building, as well as the gable roof parts, if they are also planned to be sideway.

• Determine the area of ​​a rectangular wall is simple - you need to height the height by the length. If there are windows or( or) doors on the wall, then their area is calculated, and then subtracted from the total area of ​​the wall. The obtained value will be equal to the amount of the required finishing material.

If the base and corners of the building are finished with a siding with with another invoice or with another , these areas are calculated separately.

With any version of the finishing material, it is recommended to purchase 15% more than the calculations.

• Knowing the area of ​​each of the walls of the house, you can calculate how many siding panels will be required for the of its plating. To do this, you need to clarify the area of ​​one panel of finishing material. The is calculated using the same formula as the wall area, ie .height is multiplied by the length of the panel, for example
  

0,23 × 3,66 = 0,84 m².

By the way, very often this value( the useful area of ​​one panel) is indicated in the product passport.

• Further, the total wall area obtained( after deducting the sizes of windows and doors) is divided into the area of ​​one panel. As a result, the number of panels to be purchased for the plating of one wall is obtained. Such calculations will need to be repeated for each of the walls of the - only so you can get the right number of panels for the entire finish of the house.
• Next produced calculation the area of ​​the gable roof parts. It is recommended to make an accurate drawing of the pediment in a scale of 1:20 and on the it correctly distribute the siding panels, relative to their length and direction.

The gable area is calculated according to Gerona formula :

S = √ p ×( p - a ) × ( p - b ) × ( p - c )

wherein p - it semiperimeter which respectively is

p =( a + b + c ) : 2.

For example: suppose that our pediment triangle has sides on the 7 m , and in the base - 8 m .

The semipermeter is: p =( 7 + 7 + 8 ) : 2 = 11 m

Now it is easy to calculate and the area itself:

S = √ 11 ×( 11 - 7) ×( 11 - 7) ×( 11 - 8) = √ 528 ≈ 23 m²

So, the area of ​​the pediment is 23 square meters.meters. There are usually two gables, so the parameter is doubled.

• Next, you need to calculate all the auxiliary fittings.

They are necessary and for the convenience of installing the panels perfectly evenly and accurately one to the other, and for giving the a skin of the finished type - closing the of all the slots and inconsistencies on the joints.

Profile Thumbnail	Profile Name and Purpose	Profile Thumbnail	Profile Name and Purpose
	Starting Plate - As a rule, the general installation begins		Profile-facet, for finishing the end of the eaves
	Finishing strip - completes the rows of the siding from the top		Platbands- for finishing the transition from the wall to the wall or window openings
	Profile for facing the external corners		The window( door) - for finishing the corresponding slopes
	Profile for the jointsand panels in internal corners		Junction block - for vertical joints of
	panels J-profile wide - installed on plane junctions or at their end		Bindings - for registering jumps, vertical gradients
	Sofit - for filing underneath cornice overhangs		Drain plank - to ensure free drainage of rainwater on the ledges, for example, on the transition to the socle

For example, the starting bar is set perfectly exactly according to the building leveland fixed in the bottom of the wall. On how it will be installed, depends on the horizontal installation of all subsequent siding panels, that is, it will set the direction of the entire skin.

In this diagram, you can consider the various profiles that are designed for finishing different areas of the - skin. This is the frame of the window and door windows, soffits, joints of individual panels, corners and etc .

How many and which profiles need to be purchased for finishing internal and external corners and other facade elements are calculated depending on the structure of the structure, the number of windows and doors, the presence of a visor above the entrance, etc.

Window siding is the most difficult element of fixing this structure. Therefore, we decided to make a material about finishing the windows in a separate article, which you can see here.

By the way, we recommend that you read more about the installation of the siding with a heater.

Measurement of window and door openings needs to be done carefully, and to the size of each type of required strips you need to add 15% of their length - this stock needs in case the made an unsuccessful cut and one of the fittings the will be corrupted.

Typically, manufacturers of each siding model are accompanied by a full set of fittings. In the technical documentation, the length of each element is mandatory. So it's not hard to make the necessary calculations for .

• For the of the , the board size 20 ÷ 25 × 80 ÷ 100 mm or, alternatively, the galvanized profiles 60 × 27 mm, which are used for the drywall, will be required. Guides are attached to the walls of the house with a step of 400 ÷ 600 mm from each other( this depends on the specific siding model and must be specified in the installation instructions).The length of each of the elements of the crate will correspond to the height of the wall in the given to the location. In the same way, the number and length of the guide rails are calculated on each of the walls and on the pediment. The bar is best purchased by 20% more than for according to calculations, as in some areas of walls it is necessary to increase its consumption.

• self-tapping screws. To fix the siding on , the crate will need to acquire a large number of screws with a wide bonnet. If there is a desire, then you can calculate their exact number, but usually x get packs of 1000 pieces.

• For the treatment of the walls and elements of the wooden in front of the with its assembly, it is necessary to purchase an antiseptic primer that protects the surfaces from moisture penetration, from mold colony formation or insect nests. The consumption of the solution is indicated by the manufacturer on the package, so its quantity is acquired taking into account the total area of ​​the facade.

Tools and accessories for work

The following minimum tool kit is required for mounting the siding:

• Measuring tools - is a tape measure, folding meter, construction level and angle, metal ruler, plumb line, strong cord for chopping lines, chalk, marker, pencil.
• Hacksaw with small teeth for metal and( or) electric jig saw.
• Screwdriver , which will help to quickly install, as screwdriver make this work difficult.
• For securing the , the battens on stone walls can sometimes be avoided without a perforator.
• Bench tools - hammer, pliers, screwdrivers , knife-cutter, awlo and -type . - as needed
• Construction roller and wide brush - for preliminary priming of surfaces.

All tools should always be at hand, so you need to think about a convenient mobile device where they will be decomposed. In addition, it will be necessary somewhere to carry out preparatory work on sawing of siding and wooden bars. For this, the is suitable for a durable wooden or metal workbench, which can be moved to the right place as needed.

To work at height, special stands or scaffolds will be needed, which will help to comfortably and accurately carry out the installation process. At not too high walls as the building " goats " will approach them.

It is recommended to have two such attachments of different heights. One will allow you to reach the top of the wall, and the other will be required to work in the of its middle section. In addition, by setting them side by side, we get a kind of so that you can climb up to the high ones without problems. The usual staircase will be difficult to do, since it covers a very small area of ​​the wall, and will have with long panels.

It is best to build "goats", having length of 2500 ÷ 3000 mm - , then less often will have to move the ."Goats" should be strong and stable, otherwise it will be dangerous for them to climb during work. If they even stagger a little, they need to be well strengthened.

Wall preparation

Wall preparation before further installation work - is a simple but very responsible process. The length of the operational period of the entire structure depends on how well it will be performed by .

This work begins with the dismantling of gutters, window and door casing, street lights, tides and other facade elements.

Further, it is necessary to critically assess the condition of the surface on which the crate will be mounted:

• If it is a brick, stone or adobe wall, it is necessary to repair all the cracks and chips that have formed on it during the operation of the building. Slots are expanded, processed with a primer and embedded with cement mortar, sealant, and oversized gaps - mounting foam.

If the wall is wooden, built of logs and topped with a lining, the lining can be dismantled, and it is possible to install the crate and on top of the on it , depending on the age and condition of the old coating. But still it is recommended to remove the old plating, since under it there can be found dwellings of insects, small rodents, mold stains or even moss growths are not excluded.

If the still decided to make the installation on the old plating, then you need to make sure that all the boards of the lining are secured reliably . In the presence of decayed boards, they must be replaced with new ones.

• The next stage of the is the treatment of the walls with antiseptic composition, which is applied with a roller or a wide brush. The coating must dry well and, as long as this process takes place, the bars should be treated with an antiseptic. It is recommended to perform such treatment at least two times.

Assembly of crates

After completing the preparatory work and preparing the bars you need the length, you can proceed to the installation of the crate .

In the lower part of the wall, markings are made for the installation of carcass bars. If the siding is mounted horizontally, then the bars are positioned vertically, and vice versa.

crate To prevent ing from falling under the sauce ng, it is traditionally mounted on the walls horizontally, but on the pedimental part of the roof, sometimes it is fixed vertically or " herringbone ", that is from the middle of the - gablethe same angle as the slope of the roof.

After marking on the walls, the blocks( profiles) are screwed or nailed. It is necessary to constantly monitor their correct position with the help of level and plumb.

Unfortunately, the walls are not always flat, so the crate is brought to the desired level, making the lining of racks or plywood in the right places. But the siding, installed on the by , will hide wall defects.

When installing the , the is intended to provide the length of the siding. If it is shorter than the length of the wall, then the connection point of the two panels must be determined already during the marking and installation of the guides.

crate assemblies This diagram shows well the location of the crate of the with horizontal docking of the siding panels with the specified temperature gaps. Dimensions are in mm:

1 - vertical crate ;

2 - H-profile;

3 - horizontal crate ;

4 - starting plate.

It is very important to observe the temperature gaps during the installation of vinyl siding, as it has a fairly large linear expansion with thermal drops. The gaps will protect the panels from deformation. The size of the vertical gaps on the sides of the H-profile should be 10 ÷ 12 mm, horizontal 4 ÷ 5 mm. The same , it should be observed with the installation of the of all profiles.

If the installation is performed at a temperature below minus 8 ÷ 10 ° With , the thermal gap must be increased by another 3 ÷ 4 mm.

The vertical H-shaped connecting profile should be provided in the areas where the horizontal panels are to be joined. This can be short lengths of the horizontal or a wide( for example, double) vertical guide - to fit both the profile and the ends of the of both panels with a temperature gap.

This photo shows the connection of two H-profile siding panels.

If the length of the siding corresponds to the size of the wall, the lath is mounted evenly over the entire wall, except for the window and door openings of the .

laths If there are window or door openings of the on the wall, the laths must be fixed around them, which will become the basis for fixing the fencing profiles for the slope finishing.

On the wooden walls the frame is fixed with the help of long screws or nails, and on brick, stone, concrete, most often - with anchorages.

This diagram shows the fastening of the crate to the walls of different materials:

4 - brushes ;

5 - log wall ;

6 - siding;

7 - anchoring to the brick wall;

8 - brick wall ;

9 - the old planking of the log wall with a lining.

Assembly of

fittings As soon as the is completed with the assembly, some of the hardware profiles are changed. They must be vertically aligned t horizontally with a level or plumb line.

• Profiles nailed or screwed with screws through the middle of elongated slit-like holes, with a pitch of 350 ÷ 400 mm.

• self-tapping If two panels are connected using an H-profile, then is firstly attached to the crate, fixing it to the prepared seat for than was mentioned above.
• Then angled profiles are fixed on the inner and outer corners.
• After this, corner profiles are installed around the window and door .They will be the starting point for further slope finishing with siding( on on on is dedicated to this issue).

panels In this diagram it is easy to see what the angular profile looks like and how it is fixed to the crate :

1 - crate walls;

2 - water level, on which the horizontal bars of the crate are exposed, if the siding is installed vertically;

J-profile or starter - it is attached to the bottom of the wall and installs the first bottom of the siding panel;

4 - angular profile;

5 - vertically mounted siding panel;

6 - starting strip, its is used when installing the siding horizontally;

7 - vinyl siding panel, installed horizontally.

• After installing all the vertical hardware profiles, a horizontal start profile is fixed between them in the lower part of the wall. It should be located at a distance of 5 ÷ 6 mm( temperature gap).from vertical fittings.

Assembly of the basic siding

panels Further, you can proceed with the installation of the main part of the siding. The panels begin to be mounted from the bottom of the - wall to the start profile.

• Fasteners elements - self-drilling screws or nails, can not be driven in or screwed in all the way. It is necessary to leave a gap of 1 ÷ 1.5 mm between the hood and the vinyl panel - it is necessary to observe the in order to prevent the from deforming the panels - they need a certain degree of freedom for temperature expansion. For control, you can use, for example, a penny coin, which is pawned between the screw and the panel.

• panel. The first siding panel is hooked by the locking part behind the start profile, and the of its edges immediately hide in the corner and H-profile( if provided) or in two corner corners.

• Having installed the panel, its it is necessary to slightly move to the left - to the right .If it moves from the side of the to the side of the by 8 ÷ 10 mm, then it is installed correctly , and all the necessary clearances for temperature expansion are met.
• The panel is screwed from the of its mid to end.
• If the length of the panels is smaller than the of the length of the wall, then, as already mentioned, they are connected in an H-profile. But there is another method - laying overlapping the by at least 30 mm.

panels When mounting the overlapping the , you can not join all rows of panels on a single vertical line. The difference between joints in adjacent rows of should be at least 550 ÷ 600 mm. Joints can coincide vertically only on the third ÷ fourth series - only with such condition and the installation of the siding will be strong, and outwardly the joints will look beautiful.

• The upper panel is inserted by the lock part into the already assembled lower part and rises slightly - until snaps into place lock. In no event should the panel be pulled up with force - after the latching the sidi ng , without vertical force, is attached to the guides in exactly the same way as the previous ones.

So siding is mounted on the entire façade, except for the last top panel.

• The follows the filing of the eaves with soffits, fixes the profile of the finish profile, and only then the last panel is mounted under the cornice.

Video: master class on installation of vinyl siding

Fixing the gable

Fixing the siding on the gable - is quite complicated in accomplishing the task for which will have to build "goats" or try to work with stairs by rearranging its several times.

• The work begins with fastening the crate at the bottom of the pediment, of the J-profile on the sloping sides and the H-profile in the middle if the cladding is conducted symmetrically from the center. In the event that the finish is produced by solid panels( which is much more difficult), the H-profile is not installed.

• Next, the at the panels needs to cut the edge at the right angle so that it perfectly entered the in the fixed J-profile .Determine the angle, can be as follows:

- Take the section of the siding panel and set it to fixed at the bottom of the pediment starting profile and advances to the stop in the corner.

- In J-profile , fixed on the ramp inserted still one piece of panel, and also moves to the stop in the same angle.

- Then, on a horizontally standing profile, a marker is made at the intersection of two panels, or a line is immediately drawn, which will determine the cutting angle. After the desired angle is cut out, this fragment has a template for cutting and all subsequent rows of skin.

- The rest of the panels are made according to the reconciled pattern, but each of the is measured and cut after the lower one is installed, since the each of the gable rows has its own size.

• Prepared siding is installed and fixed in the same way as for wall mounting.
• If an H-profile is installed in the of the middle part of the pediment, then each row of plating is assembled from two segments that are set with an equal side in the H-profile and the edge cut into at the edge in J-profile .Mounting in this way is much easier, rather than measuring and installing a solid panel.

In the very installation of the siding on the walls and the pediment there is nothing complicated, except for the fact that for some time the will have to work at altitude .If well prepared, make reliable "goats" or scaffolds, and also have all the necessary tools at hand and follow the tried and tested technological recommendations, then you can completely finish your house with siding yourself.

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