Recently I myself made a stove on waste oil. Time, as well as money, took a little. For a photo, do not judge - did it hastily, so there was no time to be careful. Also, such an oven can be heated with firewood - a large camera is good for this.
Safety precautions
Contents of the article
- 1 Safety precautions
- 2 How does a self-made stove work
- 3 ?
- 4 Body construction
- 5 Bottom chamber and burner
- 6 Making drip tray
- 7 Providing oil supply
- 8 Chimney arrangement
- 9 Assembling the heat exchanger
- 10 Oil tank
- 11 Arranging the door
- 12 How to ignite and stop the oven?
- 13 How do I clean the oven?
- 14 Video - Waste oil burner
- 14.1 Video - Various waste oil ovens
- 14.2 Video - Various waste oil ovens
- 14.3 Video - Various waste oil ovens
I'll start immediately with warnings and moralizing. Before you start, soberly assess your opportunities. Remember: this furnace is potentially dangerous equipment. Any errors can lead to tragic consequences. But if you do everything right, a ready homemade stove will not be inferior in any way to a certified factory heater.
I made the stove myself. I'm not a specialist in heating systems and I do not expect such a title, I submit the instructions as is, you can use it strictly under your responsibility.
The only thing I can advise from my experience: in no case do not collect an oil stove without a drip type. In such aggregates, the reservoir for working is located at the bottom of the main part of the structure. Doing this is not recommended for the reason that when heated, the oil becomes fire hazardous and generally unpredictable.
Also I would not advise you to assemble an oven with an open burner and a flame.
flame. The principle of the homemade stove is
. My stove works on a very simple principle. Is ignited. The fuel begins to burn on the surface of the body and it scorches the stove. In the course of the process, smoke vapor is extracted through the smoke pipe under the influence of traction.
The design of the stove includes a part of the chimney with a number of holes( usually up to 50).This part of the unit is called a burner. In such a burner, oil vapors are mixed with oxygen entering the smoke stack under the influence of thrust. As a result of their mixing, the combustion process begins to be carried out much purer and more intense with the release of a huge amount of heat.
?
For assembling a similar stove, I prepared the following:
- gas cylinder for 50 liters;
- steel pipe. It is best to use a pipe with a diameter of 10 cm. The body, the burner and the chimney were two meters long;
- steel corner. In total, I took a little more than 5 cm of the corner. From it I made a stand under the stove, various internal parts of the heat exchanger and door handles;
- sheet of steel. On the plugs and the bottom of the upper chamber took about 50 cm2 4 mm sheet;
- brake rotor. I used a cast-iron disc from the car. The main thing is that in size, he freely enter the balloon;
- empty container from freon. A standard balloon will do. The main thing is that the needle valve works. I used it to make a fuel tank;
- piece of hose for fuel supply;
- pair of clamps;
- piece of a half-inch pipe. On it in the stove will be served oil;
- half-inch valve;
- loops.
Making the case
. I used a used bottle. The gas in it was gone, but just in case, I opened the valve and left the balloon so on the street for the night.
Then I gently and slowly drilled a hole in the bottom of the cylinder. In order not to appear sparks, I pre-moistened the drill with oil.
Then I filled the tank with water and drained it - it cleared away the remains of gas. Work carefully, try not to spill gas condensate, tk.he stinks very much and very long.
Then I cut out a couple of openings. In the upper opening I will make a combustion chamber and put the heat exchanger, in the bottom there will be a burner with a pallet. The camera above is specially made so large that if necessary it could be heated with wood, pressed briquettes, etc.
Then I once again washed the opened gas cylinder from the gas condensate.
Bottom chamber and burner
Then I made a bottom for the upper compartment of the stove. For this, a sheet of 4 mm thick steel was used.
The burner decided to make a 20-centimeter - that's enough.
I made a lot of holes around the circumference so that air could safely get to the fuel. When all the holes were ready, I polished the inside of the burner. You, too, must do it, becauseon the sticks and other defects, soot begins to be actively collected.
First I welded the burner in the bottom of the upper chamber, and then installed them in the proper place. On such a shelf of the stove, you can safely lay the wood. Actual for cases when there is no possibility to replenish the reserves of working off.
burner. The
drip tray was made from a cast-iron car brake disc. Cast iron is distinguished by good heat resistance, so I decided to take it exactly.
Bottom welded the bottom.
The top was welded on top. In it you can see the counter part of the burner and the opening. Air enters through the opening through the stove. I made it wide - it's better. With a narrow opening, the air draft may not be strong enough, because of which the oil can not enter the pallet.
Then made the coupling. She connects the pallet and the burner in my stove. With the clutch, the stove will be much easier to maintain. If necessary, I can take out the pallet and clean the burner from below.
The coupling was made from a 10-cm pipe, just cutting it along the longitudinal edge. The opening in the coupling did not brew - there is no need for this.
Oil supply
cut the tube I worked on the oil supply system further. To do this, took a piece of pipe and welded it to the pallet through a pre-prepared hole. I cut the pipe in advance, so that the jet can work normally through the opening in the pan.
I put the tube to the tank and put the valve.
Chimney arrangement
I made a smoke-deflecting structure from a 10-centimeter pipe. Nothing supernatural - the pipe just welded to the hole in the center of the top of the case.
The chimney led to the street to the roof through the wall. To the wall attached a piece of metal sheet for fire protection. The tube itself is better to pass through the wall in a special refractory glass.
Assembly of the heat exchanger
The stove was used to heat the garage. There are no water batteries in the garage, so I decided it was better to immediately heat up and circulate the air. If you have water batteries, you can cancel the air heat exchanger and simply put 4-5 water coils through the top chamber, connecting them in parallel. In this case, the construction must be supplemented with a circulation pump and a fan. Such equipment will allow heating the entire house with a stove, you only need to allocate a room for the stove installation.
Let's return to my heat exchanger. I installed it between the smoke pipe and the stove burner - there is more heat here. The heat exchanger was welded to an iron plate. Thanks to her, it will be better to keep the flame. Also, it will contribute to the distribution of fire inside the stove body.
Inside the heat exchanger put an air swirler. There are no engineering frills in such a swirler, but with his task he copes one hundred percent. When working at maximum power, the metal body is heated to a scarlet color, and the heated out air penetrates even through the glove. You can see the swirler in the photo.
Next I took the channel fan and put it on one side of the heat exchanger. By the way, you can connect a thermal relay to the fan for automation. This will allow you to set the temperature yourself and save resources. I, for example, decided to use the thermostat from Autonics - it just lay around me idle. But you can take some budget model, for example, Vemer KLIMA.I also tried it, it works perfectly.
Heat is concentrated in a compartment of a firebox.
Oil tank
For the tank I took the tank from freon. You can buy it for any penny at any SRT or at the metal reception center. The main thing is that the needle valve of this cylinder is in good order. With its help in the future you will be able to accurately control the amount of fuel supplied.
The tank was connected to the stove with a hose. The hose was connected to the valve. The tank itself was fixed in an inverted position.
For cutting work, cut out a hole in the tank.
Furnishing of the door
The oven is almost ready. The last touches remain. In the door of the lower chamber I cut an opening through which air can freely flow to the pallet and the burner of the stove.
The opening in the upper door is equipped with thrust plates for additional sealing.
For the upper door assembled a simple lock. In the process of heating, the furnace body "leads".To keep the combustion chamber sealed, the upper door must be closed as reliably as possible. For this I did the castle.
To the wall screwed several pieces of metal corner.
At the screwed corner I installed the stove. This is convenient( if necessary, it will be much easier to carry out an audit), and functionally( heat losses to the ground are reduced).
Oven How to Kindle and Stop the Oven?
After many experiments, I found the easiest and most effective way to ignite such a stove. First I pour oil in the pan. It should not be too much. It is enough that the oil covers the bottom of the pallet.
Then I take a piece of foam rubber and carefully moisten it with gasoline or a solvent. The impregnated foam is put in the pallet so that the bottom of the piece is immersed in oil.
Then I set fire to foam rubber. It stably burns, even if the thrust becomes too strong. As a result, the surface of the pallet is heated to the required temperature.
Then I gently open the valve of the tank with fuel so that it starts to flow very thin trickle. Adjust the feed rate as carefully and slowly as possible.
The oven will gradually enter operating mode. Periodically monitor the level of working in the pallet.
To stop this stove, simply close the valve on the tank with oil, and then, when the oil stops, close the emergency valve. The oven will completely go out within 3-5 minutes and the case will cool down.
How do I clean the oven?
During the work in the burner, the smoke exhaust pipe and the furnace tray will be collected. Naturally, the stove can only be cleaned after it has cooled down.
When cleaning, I usually follow the following sequence:
- I take a couple of handfuls of clean sand or small gravel and alternately throw them into the chimney outlet on the side of the street;
- I remove sand or gravel with soot from the smoke pipe through the upper chamber;
- with the help of a rod smack garbage from the walls of the burner stove in the bottom tray;
- I take out the pallet itself and wipe the waste.
I hope that my experience will be of use to you, and you will be able to just as easily as I collect the stove on the waste oil.
Have fun!