Insulation of inter-panel joints in the extremely accessible way
If you live in a wooden house, you are unlikely to have problems in the form of heat leakage through inter-panel seams, because there are no such( well, do not make concrete floors in wooden houses).However, the country house can be from building blocks, for example, from gas silicate, respectively, the floor panels may well be reinforced concrete, and therefore, the seams between them will not be difficult. It remains to choose how to seal them from the many available. The most acceptable, perhaps, many will find the insulation of inter-panel seams with one-component polyurethane sealants, or, otherwise, mounting foam. First, it is inexpensive, and secondly - quickly and qualitatively.
The mounting foam does not shrink, it is very elastic and has the property of self-adhesion, that is, it is possible to apply a new layer to the old one.
What is needed for polyurethane-based sealants is the moisture in the air. Accordingly, this material is almost unsuitable for filling closed spaces - having absorbed all the moisture that exists there, which, of course, will not be enough, the assembly foam will not get the proper degree of hardening and will remain a liquid compound. The use of mounting foam for its intended purpose makes it possible to achieve remarkable results - it freezes at a fairly good rate, on the order of 2-4 mm / day, with
Thermal insulation of floors after the seams are sealed
The mounting foam is good only for small areas, it is an unjustified luxury to pour the whole concrete block over it. Therefore, using polyurethane sealant for the purpose, that is, for seams, we select thermal insulation in order not to pick up a runny nose in the future every time you have to walk around the rooms barefoot. Of course, you can, without further ado, make the insulation of the slabs glassy, but over time it can shrink, so we choose a more durable material. Specialists, for example, advise expanded polystyrene concrete, from which an excellent screed is obtained. It is prepared quite simply, for preparation of 1 cubic meter of the composition it is necessary to purchase 290 kilograms of cement, 1 cubic meter of polystyrene pellets, 0.75 liters of SDO( tar saphenous, preferably 50%) or only 280 grams of the same component in dry form. Also it will take up to 130 liters of water.
Start preparation of the mixture should be with the addition of 10% of our existing water prepared in advance polystyrene( it is logical that all this goes directly to the concrete mixer).Then wait for 20 seconds, pour the cement into the mix and pour the water, leaving 5% for the air-entraining additive, which we chose as the SDO.If you can not get such an additive, you can pour out all the water, the composition will get a little heavier than you would like, but it will still be a good enough insulation. But we will assume that SDO is and, after waiting for a careful mix of the previous components, dissolve the resin in water and send it to the total mass.
The composition is ready after it has increased in volume( provided that the SDO is still added), it is possible to begin the insulation of the floors, applying the mixture to the cleaned concrete surface, after applying the primer( we put the screed on wet ground).If possible, we spread out according to previously placed beacons, which are taken out after 24 hours with subsequent sealing by the same composition of holes. A finished layer of at least 30 millimeters is covered with a polyethylene film for 5 days "ripening", in order to avoid cracking, then dries a couple more weeks without a film. To level the screed, you can use a cement-sand mix or simply mats of mineral wool, laying on top of this or that coating.
Thermal insulation of wooden beams by fixing thermal insulation between them
The wooden house also requires the insulation of the floors, although not for the reason that in stone buildings with concrete slabs. The fact is that concrete has the property of absorbing heat, and it is cold in the rooms with concrete floors for this reason, they give all their heat to the material of the overlap. In a wooden house, the heat simply escapes through the floor of the , tending downwards to a cold cellar, or even just to the ground, in an attempt to heat the medium with a lower temperature. That is why wooden floors need high-quality thermal insulation, which is only possible through the insulation of the ceiling on wooden beams. To do this, the flooring from the floorboards or laminate rises, and plates or heat insulation mats are laid between the lags.
For example, it is possible to make the insulation of the floor by foam, with previously installed transverse bars between the load-bearing floor beams( lags), the task of which will be to fix the insulation. Then, the water-repellent film is placed on the uneven bars, preventing the penetration of damp from the underground when the first floor or the evaporation from the lower visits to the second floor is insulated. The strips must overlap, bending over the beams, and freely sagging in the spaces between them, the joints of the waterproofing are glued together with a metallized tape. Plates of thermal insulation are laid, joints between them and lags are filled with mounting foam. From above everything is covered with a vapor barrier, because the heat coming from the top down through the overlapping, for the delay of which we make the warming of the wooden floor, can be saturated with moisture.
Another option - foam polyurethane, which can be poured between the lags, also with the preliminary installation of cross bars, however, with a greater frequency than for a solid heater. Given that under the lag is the ceiling of the lower floor or the underground, you can not be afraid that the sprayed foam will pass freely into the gaps between the beams. In general, the insulation of wooden floors can be carried out from the top down, with the dismantling of the floor, and from the bottom up, respectively, provided that the ceiling panels or boards are removed. The sprayed foam does not require a vapor barrier or a waterproof film, as it is an excellent waterproofing in itself. Specific heat conductivity is so low that you can forget about the cold with such a heater for good.
