Bugler Furnace with own hands

I know from experience that buying even the simplest heating furnace can cause a serious blow to the budget of an ordinary person. Having studied the many available designs of the furnaces, I decided to give preference to the bouleriana. The homemade modification of a well-known foreign heating furnace perfectly fitted into my garage.

Bugler Furnace with own hands - drawings and assembly diagram

Set for making

Furnace First I prepared everything that I need to build my own bouleriana. First of all, I took a drill from the pantry with a set of drills for all occasions, a grinder with disks in the kit, a welding machine, clamps and other trifles.

My drill

I had to tinker with the materials. To booleran was really reliable and quality, I decided to make it from heat-resistant boiler steel. This material is able to provide a truly lasting and reliable operation of the heating unit. Find in the personal economy or buy in the specialized store the mentioned material.

I also used a steel plate 4 mm thick. I needed a sheet sized 100x200 cm. In addition, I needed a bit( 40x70 cm) of 6 mm steel sheet, about 4 meters of a pipe 11 cm in diameter, about 10 m of a profiled pipe measuring 57х4 mm. In addition, I bought pens, hinges and locks for arranging the doors, prepared pieces of a 35-cm pipe and, in general, several metal blanks just in case.

Homemade boulerian: detailed manual

First I bent a 57mm pipe. For this he used a special tool - a pipe bender. Cut off the pipe at 120 cm, and then bent with a 225-millimeter radius.

Bent pipe

As a result, I got 8 pipes. According to the construction of the bugleriana, I installed 4 pipes from each side, placing them in a chessboard. As a result, the depth of the heating unit was 45.6 cm.

Then I made a tap in the form of the letter "T".I'll install it after the bugler. This design will simultaneously emit smoke and collect condensate. In the end, test. If everything is done correctly, the smoke will go up, and the condensed moisture will drain down.

Tap

Bottom mounted a crane. Very convenient thing. As condensation accumulates, it is enough to simply turn the tap and all moisture will go away. I tried to keep the faucet permanently open, it is better not to do so - there is an unnecessary thrust.

Crane for tap

The bend has installed a damper for regulating the thrust, as well as the intensity of combustion in the boulevard.

Dampers for tap

Similar, but already a blind flap fixed on the ashtray of the entrance door.

On the door there is also a damper

For fixing the flaps, fixed on their axis a spring. She tightens the flaps more tightly in the pipe and fits them better in the right position. In general, the flaps "walk" by 90 degrees.

I took a pipe 350x4 and cut off from it two 4-centimeter pieces. I cut one piece and stretched it outward. In the gap inserted a tire size 4x4 cm. As a result, I received 2 rings with diameters of 35 and about 36 cm. That is, one ring should calmly but firmly enter the second.

I make the cover

The second ring on the front wall of the booleur.

The front wall of the furnace with the

ring The rings are welded to the designated places. What is larger, I took for the door. From the tire made the third ring - the inside for the door. As a result, it got inside the ring on the door of the stove and its wall. Sealed the gap between the rings on the door with an asbestos cord.

Welded rings and inserted asbestos cord

The door should be closed as tightly as possible - this is necessary for normal gas generation. Of course, this can be done well by convection pipes, however, after having tested the design, I realized that it is the dense door in combination with the dosed and controlled air supply that makes the gas generation more efficient. Therefore, it is better to spend a little more time and tighten the door qualitatively.

The heat shield was welded to the door on the spacers. Then he welded a corner to the screen. Thanks to the corner, a more even distribution of air will be ensured. In addition, the corner will not allow the firewood to pass into the lid during closing.

I insert the injection tubes

I brewed the gaps

After that I made the cuts in the first pair of pipes and inserted the injection tubes there. I used a tube 1.4 cm in diameter. The length was 15 cm. As for me, this is the most optimal option. The installed pipes will be in constant communication with the firebox by means of convection tubes, so that combustion will be ensured.

Then I welded the frame of steel pipes. Do not forget: the injection tubes are inserted into the first pipes. The following pipes are by themselves.

I cut a partition

. Then I made a partition of thick( like taking about 6 mm) metal sheet. If possible, use as thick metal as possible. It will be very hot in the combustion compartment and, if the thickness is insufficient, it will burn very quickly. The septum is best done in a pattern - it's more convenient. The mold itself is made of cardboard in size.

I collect the skeleton of the stove. I installed a partition

Then I welded the space between the convection tubes. He also used templates. First they were made of cardboard, and then cut out of heat-resistant metal.

I welded the space between the convection pipes

I made the lock. The design is simple: the eccentric is grasped by a loop attached to the wall of the furnace, and during the scrolling the door closes to the body.

I put the eccentric

It's not very easy to make such a lock, but it is possible. You have to use a router and a lathe. The design itself, as I said, is extremely simple. Thus the lock very effective.

Hinges made from incisors. You can use any suitable similar workpiece.

Then I secured the air injector in the upper part of the front face of the body. In fact, it allows to further regulate the combustion in the furnace of homemade booleriana. Opening and closing the injector will be by turning the holes in the tubes.

Air Injector

Welded to the buglerian legs.

Welded legs

Installed a chimney and loaded a test batch of firewood.

The stove before loading wood

It was drowned by a bouler. Everything went fine.

Drowned bakerjan

On this stove is ready. In advance I will say: in practice everything is a little more difficult than in words. But you can get the stove with an efficiency of 75-80% with minimal financial costs. Such boulerian will be able to heat almost any space - from the barn to the living room.

After using this stove for a while, I decided to improve it. If you want, you can do the same, as I do.

How I upgraded the

bakery AS How I upgraded the

bakerian How I upgraded the

bugler How I upgraded the

bakleri How I upgraded the

bakeran How I upgraded the

bakerion The features of the device of the stove in question are such that it can initially spread qualitatively and evenly the oxygen inside itself. Pipes from below draw in cold oxygen, and from the installed at the top, heated air is extracted. If you wish, you can ensure forced circulation of oxygen.

I took tubes of a suitable diameter and welded the adapters from them to the holes of the stove tube, located below. From one edge of the adapter I muffled.

The second side connected with the fan.

I decided to use "snappy" fan models. To ensure their work in my case, a 90-watt motor was enough for 2800 revolutions per minute.

The results are excellent - after the modification, the bakerine began to work even more efficiently.

I also think about connecting to the upper corrugated outlets and spreading in different directions - a full-fledged heating system will be obtained.

You can think out the instructions in your own way. I will gladly read your proposals and maybe even apply something in practice.

My instruction manual will help you to assemble a reliable, efficient, durable and productive stove with your own hands.