Unlike wooden, the concrete floor in the bath is durable and fireproof.
Concrete coating perfectly tolerates dampness, mechanical and shock loads, it is easy to take care of.
Properly arranged slope allows you to easily remove water from the bath.
The finished floor can be insulated, covered with tiles, wood.
Often, an electric or water-heated floor is embedded in a concrete sandwich.
Basic requirements for floor installation
Before starting work, you should consider the water drainage system. If the sink is done incorrectly, an unpleasant smell, dampness and fungus will soon appear in the bath.
The most convenient way is to connect to the central sewer. Unfortunately, such an opportunity is not always available. Therefore, it is usually possible to drain water into a pit or a septic tank.
The pit must be located 3-5 m from the bath.
It is recommended that the walls of the pit be made of concrete, the bottom should be covered with rubble or broken brick so that the water can flow freely.
To prevent debris from entering the sewer system, drain the drainer with a grill.
If there is a septic tank in the area, the pipe is taken out there, only it is necessary to equip the water gate, which prevents penetration of odors into the steam room. The draining device in the bath look at the video.
Video:
Requirements for pipes:
- Internal water pipes are made of cast iron, ceramic, asbestos or PVC pipes;
- It is inadmissible to use steel, as this material spoils from constant contact with water;
- Minimum diameter of the drain - 50 mm;
- It is recommended to use PVC pipes for external water supply;
- The drain is installed with a slope towards the drain hole.
Sometimes an absorbing pit is arranged directly under the bath.
To ensure that such a pit does not become a source of unpleasant odors, it is desirable to leave ventilating air in the socle, through which air will circulate.
The drain located directly above the pit can be arranged only on sandy light soils. For dense and clay soils this way of tapping water is not suitable.
To eliminate blockages it is necessary to make a manhole.
How to make a manhole yourself:
- At a distance of 3 - 3.5 m from the bath, excavate a round or square pit with an area of approximately 1 m;
- The walls of the well should be covered with concrete, brick, wood;
- The lower part needs to be poured with concrete to make a tray connecting the pipes;
- At the top, you must install the lid and insulate it;
- Fill the whole structure with slag, sawdust or earth;
- Floor pouring on the ground
Pouring floors on the ground is possible only in the area with dense soil, where deformation of the building is excluded in case of subsidence of the base.
In the presence of puffy soils and the danger of freezing, the device of the concrete floor in the bath is produced using a different technology.
Before beginning the priming, the top layer should be removed and then thoroughly ground. Features of the device floor on the ground can be seen on the video.
Video:
Fill the floor on the ground in one layer with your own hands:
- Remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 400-500 mm;
- Harm the pad;
- Add 150 mm of gravel. At this point, begin to form a slope to the place where the sink will be located;
- On top of the gravel, fill the sand layer 300-500 mm and again tamp well;
- The next stage is waterproofing. On the compacted sand spread several layers of ruberoid overlapping each other 100 mm. The layers should be perpendicular to each other. Joint with bituminous mastic;
- To the floors in the bath were not cold, you need to make insulation. Depending on climatic features, the base can be insulated with foam, foam, mineral wool plates, impregnated tar and building felt. Heat-insulating materials should be placed on the wall;
- If the insulation is carried out with mineral wool, waterproofing is again done on top of the material, only this time with a polyethylene film, a whole cloth or two pieces with a large overlap and fixation with a wide tape;
- Next lay the reinforcing mesh with a 5 mm rod;
- Install the beacon system so as to form a drain. If you make it in the center, it will be difficult to direct biases. It is better to arrange a sink in the corner part of the room;
- The minimum thickness of a concrete screed on the ground is from 30 mm. The filling can be made with a ready dry mixture for rooms with high humidity or cement-sand mortar( 1: 3).
When laying the floor in several layers, the order of work changes. The first layer is poured over the lighthouses directly onto the sandy-gravel layer. After hardening waterproofing is laid, then you need to insulate the floor.
Warming is recommended not to be made of polystyrene, but perlite sand. Perlite has high thermal insulation properties.
Since perlite insulation is associated with the formation of a large amount of dust, the material is recommended to be slightly bonded to cement.
The reinforcement grid is laid further, beacons are installed, concrete is poured.
In case of danger of underflooding by groundwater or seasonal floods, high-quality waterproofing and drainage system is needed.
Video:
Work order for pouring on soils on heaving and flooded soils:
Arrange a drainage system to lower the water table by 80 cm lower than the ground freezes.
Before pouring the concrete floor in the bath, remove the layer of native soil and replace it with a denser one.
Thoroughly weaken the base and make the base warming using a moisture-resistant board, for example foamed polyurethane foam.
Next reinforcing mesh, beacons are installed, concrete is poured.
We make a warm floor
To improve comfort in the bath you can make a warm floor with your own hands. There are two types of warm bases - water or electric.
The water-heated floor functions according to the heating principle. To the boiler is connected a pipe system laid according to a certain scheme.
The boiler heats up the heating medium and pumps it through the pipes. The water-heated floor is made of metal, plastic and plastic pipes.
Water or antifreeze is used as a coolant. On the video you can see how to make a warm floor in the bathhouse yourself.
Video:
The most common carrier is water, but if the sauna is not heated constantly during frosts, the warm floor may stop functioning, so it is better to add a special antifreeze for heating to the system.
The benefits of water floors include reliability and minimum operating costs.
Disadvantages: problem repair in case of breakage, decent material costs, complicated installation and repair, poorly regulated temperature.
Installation of heated floors with own hands:
- To reduce heat loss, the base under the warm floor should be well insulated. This can be done with mineral wool, foam or foam. To reduce the heat loss of thermal insulation, foil is laid;
- Pipes for water floors are laid "snake" or "snail".The latter option is more difficult to mount, but the pipes placed under this scheme warm more evenly;
- Pipes are laid in a concrete floor between layers of thermal insulation and concrete screed;
- To ensure that the system is not affected by high humidity, it is recommended to lay one more layer of waterproofing over the pipes.
Electric warm floors are of two types: with cable and film type. Special cables are used in which the electrical energy is converted into thermal energy.
For a bath it is recommended to choose cables that give out up to 250 W / m. The system of electric warm floors includes the following elements: a regulating thermostat and heat sensors.
Cables for the warm floor are single-core and double-core. Double-stranded is easier to install, but compared to single-core ones, they generate strong electromagnetic radiation.
The cables are laid on special bases, which allow to observe exactly the distances specified by the manufacturer.
After laying the system is tested, closed with reinforcing film and poured with concrete.
A more cost-effective way of installing electric underfloor heating is an infrared thermo film. It comes in the form of rolls, easy to fit.
The film is laid on a base covered with reflective material. On top of the waterproofing and poured a small layer of screed.
