The stove turns off. In the common corridor in an iron cabinet, a separate one, as I understand it, is called an RCD, it says C25. This electrician from the ZhEK put it about 2 years ago precisely because of the pouring and drying of the wire on the floor for 4 days until it works again.
Everything is bad. Hansa stove is an ordinary 4 pancakes and an oven, the whole house is 137 series with electric stoves initially, 40 years ago, the same times and a wire. We need to change.
At the dacha I know that the best non-wet NUM is three by two and a half, round gray outside the wooden walls. Inside. But there is no electric stove at the dacha. If I buy 4 x 2.5 NUM or VVG something new that doesn’t burn, I don’t know exactly what it’s called, and still where is something, I will be protected as a person 4 by 2.5 or better than 3 by 2.5 wires. I know what the RCD protects.
Nothing protects here, there is little money, there are many repairs ahead. The future slab will not be expensive either. But on modern cheap stoves Burning is written 8 of what is current - modern inexpensive electric, if someday I buy enough wires 3 by 2.5 or 4 by 2.5 to buy. The question is in combination with an RCD with an inscription 25. The question is which RCD plus which wire in combination works well for safety. Thanks..
In the title of the question, you indicate 3x2.5 or 3x4, and in the text you write 3x2.5 or 4x2.5 - you will decide between the number of veins or the section you choose. According to SP 31.110, a copper cable with a conductor cross-section of 6 mm² should be used to connect single-phase plates.
The number of cores is selected based on the number of phases and the presence of a protective conductor. The cross-section of the veins is chosen according to the power of the plate.
There would be no letter C on the RCD. This is a difavtomat, apparently. That NYM, that VVGng-LS (this is something new that is not burning, not too much new ...) equally fulfill their functions. Choose the one you want.
You indicate the rated current (C25), it only determines what power the device can be connected to. In order to protect against electric shock, differential automatic devices and RCDs are considered not from the side of the rated current, but from the side of the leakage current. It should also indicate the type of 30 mA (30 mA) or 10 mA.
To protect against leaks of equipment in humid and hazardous rooms in accordance with PUE 7.1.82 - you need to install RCDs or difavtomats with a leakage current of no more than 30 mA.
Whether your difavtomat will pull if you buy a new stove depends on its power. And the phrase "But on modern cheap stoves Combustion is written 8 of something current" - this is definitely not written. Plates are different and you need to choose one that matches the power allocated to your apartment. How much power is allocated - find out from the management company or in the power supply agreement ...
Seek help from a qualified electrician, because consulting on the Internet is not possible to take into account all the nuances and eliminate misunderstandings.
Thanks. Yes, it’s probably an automatic machine, not an RCD. So far I turned off the one on the cat. written 25. It is for an electric stove. There are only three white narrow objects with orange, two for lighting the apartment (if you turn them off in the common corridor, the orange paw is down), then the light disappears, but not everywhere) If you put both orange paws down - both in the bathroom and in the rooms and in the toilet, there is no electricity. And one of them is 3x (with the inscription 25), if you move it down, then only the electric stove turns off. I pour the wire to the stove easily, it is in the baseboard under the door of the bathroom entrance. And tile on tile in the bathroom, the floor is higher in the bathroom than in the hallway. And the slope of the tile is slightly outward. T. e water on the bathroom floor pours down the hallway. Directly on the wire going from below, in the direction through the wardrobe in the corridor, it is fenced off, and it emerges again already in the kitchen baseboard. Hansa cooker 10 years old. On its back cover there is an inscription in German 7.2 KW. Once in the old aluminum wire, 3 convex veins are visible, which means that we call it a single-phase one. Think. And in the wire from the power outlet to the electric stove, it can be seen that they pulled out a little, protrude, 3 cores: black, blue and beige-brown.
Then I need a copper three-core wire, NUM or VVGngLS, each core 6 mm thick should be, as I understand it? According to Snip, you write 6 mm each core. Or is 4 mm thick too? Electricians in the housing office are such that you can hang yourself. I'm still worried that the power outlet itself is 45 years old, the black rectangular box is rather large, will it work out that I will go to the old power outlet I will ask you to attach a beautiful new copper wire to the box, and it has been working with an aluminum three-core wire for 45 years already, maybe there is aluminum inside it where is that? Is it possible to connect a copper wire to an old power outlet at all. Or change the power outlet. And what is the wire from the outlet to the stove, the black tube is round, bends, thick, I also don’t know. Suddenly there is also old aluminum.
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