As a rule, a staircase to the attic of the house is mounted during the erection of the building. In this case, the type of its design, appearance can be chosen by anyone( as well as materials for manufacturing), depending on the size of the structure, the layout of the first( upper) floor and financial capabilities.
But often comes the idea to convert the cold attic of an already constructed private or garden house so that there is a living room upstairs. Naturally, this is also possible, although the possibilities will be somewhat limited.
Let's consider one of the simplest versions of the ladder that can be assembled without involving specialists. By the way, in many cases, its independent production is much more convenient, and the cost will be much less. We will not give the concrete dimensions of the structural components, since they largely depend on the features of the room and a number of other factors. The main thing is to understand the principle of its manufacture.
Before proceeding to the description of this process, it is worthwhile to understand the terms used in the construction of stairs.
Tread - the upper plane of the step;that part of it, on which people lower the sole of their feet.
Kosor is a board( beam) that forms a lateral load-bearing part of the structure. There are 2 of them, and steps are attached between them. For staircases with a large width of spans, an additional can be put.
Access - the distance between adjacent steps in the vertical direction. It can be covered with any material( plywood, board).Often this space is left open. This feature of the design has undeniable advantages:
- less work in the construction of stairs;
- reduces the consumption of material;
- facilitates the cleaning of stairwells.
Let's consider the main stages of work on the construction of a ladder in an already operating structure. There is no sense in explaining certain nuances, because the technical solutions applied depend on local conditions, and in each dwelling they are different. As already mentioned, the main thing is to understand the principle, technology.
Choosing the place
This implies both the convenience of placing the stairs and using it. It is necessary to take into account the features of the structural design of the building, first of all, the overlap of the upper floor. It is clear that the beams in the arrangement of the passage( hatch) to the attic can neither be dismantled nor cut. Proceeding from this, the location of the ladder and its configuration is chosen.
It's easier to make it with 1 span, but to save space it's sometimes better to make them 2, with a turn and an intermediate platform. In addition, it is better if it will be adjacent to the wall. Then 1 kosour is fixed directly on it.
Hatch arrangement
It is necessary to make a marking on the floor of the attic so that it does not fall on the floor element( beam).If there is no decking as such, then it is slightly easier to do, although not always beams are available for visual inspection. But often at the construction stage the ceiling of the upper floor is insulated, waterproofed. Each host conducts such events at his own discretion.
If it is not possible to reach the beams, it is advisable to determine the optimum position of the hatch with a long thin drill. It will help you figure out how to properly markup. It is enough to do several vertical holes in the ceiling, and the outline of the future hatch will become clear. Remains only to outline the surface accordingly.
Cutting the flooring material( "pie") is best done with a "circular".Given that the fastener elements may be caught on the way, it is recommended to use a disc having teeth from alloys of hard metals. If you work with the usual, then they may need a few pieces, so prepare them in advance. Although this is not rational, given the cost of the instrument.
The meaning of this stage is understandable. Nuances depend on how this "pie" of overlap( planking, layers of hydro- and thermal insulation, etc.) is arranged. How many rows of boards, what material was used as a heater? In the case of bulk( for example, expanded clay) you need to take care of the "blocking" of this layer from the sides during the "passage" of the ceiling.
The result of the work should be a through hole, which will be the entrance to the attic.
Measurements and calculations of
Once the "front door" is marked on the upper floor, you can determine the required number of materials. Take measurements with a non-existent hatch, the "eye", it makes no sense, because, perhaps because of the features of the construction of the ceiling, the relative position of the beams during the marking will have to move slightly in one direction or another.
Mounting
Marking of the oblique
A string is stretched from the top of the ceiling to the floor of the 1st floor. It determines the steepness of the staircase and its beginning. On the wall, a line is drawn along which 1 squish board is "fastened".After that, you can calculate the number of steps and their location relative to each other, mark them. Orientation is made horizontally using the building level.
There is a recommendation to do their odd number( for ease of movement), but that's as much as you like. At this stage, the task is to "reconcile" the dimensions of the tread, the height of the steps with the same interval between them."Adjust" can be the 1st( "invitation"), changing its height( the size of the riser).
Preparation of oblique
After marking the board, it is removed from the wall. What should be done?
- cut the grooves under the steps;
- shorten the board kosoura. Its lower end should lie not on the floor, but on the stop( cant).Here at its height, and it is shortened. And the cut is done at an angle, with the expectation that it is parallel to the floor;
- in the upper part of the board is inserted an element of fixing it to the beam of overlapping( piece of rod, wooden spike and the like).Although you can use corners, metal plates. Any owner will figure out how to do it better.
In accordance with the first oblique, the second one is marked( another "sidewall" of the staircase).The main thing is complete symmetry, otherwise the steps will stand with a skew.
Installation of the
support beam The 2nd kosour must also be secured. If the 1st is mounted on the wall, then to secure the second one, a vertical support is placed. It also makes a "drink" under the board.
Assembling the structure
A support beam is installed on the floor, at the bottom of the ladder. The lower parts of the strings are fastened to it( a long screw, a screw).In addition - corner, plate. You can equip instead of a beam with a small "pedestal", on which the lower parts of the Kosovars will be located. The board, which adjoins the wall, is immediately fixed and at the top.
The steps are set up from the bottom up. Naturally, with their preparation, some errors in length will be obtained. That is why the upper end of the second kosoura is fixed to the ceiling overlay only after the installation of the last stage.
All fixing points for reliability can be treated with a drop of joinery glue. To hide them, wooden "chopiki", decorative paper, mastic with the subsequent processing by a paint and varnish structure are applied. There are many options.
In principle, the ladder is ready. Well, its further decoration - at the discretion of the owner.
What to take into account
- Slope. First of all, you need to focus on the elderly family members and children. Typically, the angle is selected no more than 400, but for ascent to the attic room it can be increased to 450.
- Width. Not only people are moving along the stairs. On it it is necessary and something to transfer( home appliances, furnishings).The optimal value is 1 m.
- The height of the handrail should be such that it would be convenient to move around, holding on to them.80 - 90 cm will be enough.
- Treads are usually taken for 16 - 18 cm, and their width - no more than 36. These parameters depend on the steepness of the ladder. For a shallower design, the steps are made lower, and their widths are larger. The main criterion is the convenience of moving.
- "Overhanging" one step above the other - no more than 4 cm.
- If possible, the entrance to the 2nd floor is best done from the premises, and not from the extension( tambour).This will somewhat reduce the possible heat loss.
The attic can be used in many different ways. If the owners go there from time to time, it is advisable to make a folding ladder. This will allow not to occupy part of the 1st floor space for it, especially if the premise is of modest size. From photographs it's easy to understand how to mount it.
Several tips
- Given the ratio of durability and material cost, the best budget option for wood is larch.
- Thickness of the board on the stage must be at least 20 mm;on kosoury - 50 mm with a width of at least 25 mm.
- All wood should be qualitatively prepared - drying, processing with antiseptics and fire retardants.
There are a lot of different recommendations for the construction of stairs to the attic. Before proceeding with this work, it is desirable to study as much information as possible on this issue. However, do not blindly copy them. The fact is that all calculations and the formulas applied in this case are oriented to typical structures, and any private house is a specific construction with its own dimensions and design features. Therefore, and guided by various advice and recommendations need to be meaningful.
