Cosmetic repair in the kitchen for five days with their own hands

Good afternoon, dear readers of the portal Stroyday.ru. In this article, I share the experience of cosmetic repair in the kitchen with my own hands in a five-day period. All the work was done without helpers, the process took five part-time working days. The works were done in stages and included: preparation of the premises, removal of wall and ceiling defects, restoration of the kitchen apron, painting works, replacement of linoleum and wallpaper.

Tools and materials

Dimensions of our kitchen 4.15 * 2.15m with a ceiling height of 2.5m. Before I started repairs, I estimated the front of the work and made a list of the necessary materials. It includes:

• - floor screed - 25 kg;
• - Fibreboard 130 * 170cm - 5 sheets;
• - linoleum 2,5 * 4,5m;
• - floor plinth - 10 m;
• - vinyl wallpaper width 1.6m - 3 rolls;
• - wallpaper paste - 1up;
• - glue for tiles - 1kg;
• - grout for joints - 2kg;
• - acrylic washable paint - 3l;
• - wooden moldings - 10m;
• - self-tapping screws, HPS , nails.

The number and cost of materials is individual and depends on the tasks assigned to you.
An important factor in repair work is the availability of the necessary tool. I needed:

1. - punch;
2. - nozzle for perforator - whisk;
3. - brushes and rollers for painting;
4. - rubber roller for wallpaper;
5. - putty knives: metal, rubber, spatula-comb.

Preparatory work for

Day one.

Before starting work, it is necessary to clean the room of furniture and equipment, remove the battery box( if any).Ideally, you should start work in an absolutely empty kitchen, but in my case it was decided to leave the pendant lockers in place, becausereplacing wallpaper behind them in the plans was not included.

The next step is to clean the walls of the remains of old wallpaper. You can use a special tool to remove wallpaper or just to soak hard-to-lump pieces of warm water, as I did. The most important thing is to have time to scrape off the wallpaper before it dries. Spatula used to speed up the process.

The apron was not subject to replacement at this time, but obviously needed restoration. I carefully collected the fallen tiles and took off the tiles, the strength of the anchoring of which was doubtful.

Collected all the garbage in the bags and proceeded to dismantle the floor covering. Skirting boards and linoleum were no good for anything and were sent to scrap, but hardboard, which serves as a backing, I carefully took off and left to wait for my hour. The preparatory work was over and you can admire the results of the first day of the repair.

Day two

Immediately make a reservation that the leveling of the walls and floor in the cosmetic renovation of the kitchen, I did not plan. But the dismantling works found misfortunes, I could not close my eyes to that.

The holes in the walls were plastered( I used gypsum and a wide spatula).

Pits in the walls were plastered( I used gypsum and a wide spatula).

1. Holes and obvious unevenness in the floor are eliminated by means of cement screed. I used the cheapest.
2. Prepared solution: water and cement screed, 1: 4 approximately. Well mixed with a construction mixer( in my case it was a perforator with a special nozzle).
3. For better adhesion, the floor was moistened with water.
4. With enough sharp movements, the solution was applied to problem areas.
5. Gently level the mass with a spatula.

Restoration of the kitchen apron

Day two and three.

I remind you that after the preparatory stage the apron looked like this:

The restoration process included the restoration of the missing elements of the apron and the grouting of all seams.
First of all, I primed the walls in places where the missing tiles were fastened. I note that the primer dries for 30 minutes. At this time, prepared the glue for the tile( mix the solution with water to the consistency of thick sour cream carefully kneaded mixer).

Next I laid the tile( Read detailed article about grouting tile seams with my own hands).The technology is as follows:

1. for each tile with a spatula, apply a glue layer of about 5mm;
2. with a spatula-comb remove excess glue;
3. tiles are applied to the wall and slightly pressed;
4. position of the tile is corrected according to the level, with the uniformity of the seams and edges.

Before grouting the joint, a sufficient amount of time must pass for the adhesive to dry completely - at least 24 hours( instructions for help).The grouting technology also does not represent anything complicated:

1. on a rubber spatula we collect a small amount of a mixture for grouting;
2. press it into the seam, holding the spatula slightly at an angle;
3. remove the excess.

The main thing in this business is not to linger, as the mixture for grouting quickly dries up. For the same reason, I advise you to mix the mixture in separate small portions for each square meter.

After grouting the old apron acquires an elegant appearance.

Buy quality trowelling compounds from well-known manufacturers!

To make it easier to determine the choice of the mixture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the overview of the trowelling joints for joints, which is dedicated to a separate publication of our portal.

Painting work of

Day Three

Front of painting works in our kitchen consisted in painting the ceiling, the window aperture, the long shelf under the ceiling, the doors and moldings on the wall. I used an acrylic washable paint of super white color. Painted with a roller and brushes of different widths - where as convenient. To protect the glass on the door and window used paint tape, hanging cabinets covered with polyethylene. To satisfy the result, I had enough paint in two layers.

Wooden moldings laid on the cardboard face up and painted with a brush.

During the drying of the paint between the layers prepared the walls for the next wallpapering with wallpaper - primed them with the cheapest wallpaper glue.

Linoleum laying

Day three.

Traditionally, the laying of floor covering is left to the final stage of repair. But our kitchen is distinguished by the intricate geometry of the walls( many protrusions and corners) and the abundance of pipes leaving the floor. To avoid damage to new wallpaper in the process of cutting linoleum classic sequence of actions was decided to break.

To begin with, I made the floor with sheets of hardboard .As the first layer I used sheets taken from the dismantling of the old floor, and the second layer was laid with freshly acquired wood plate. Has fixed all this with self-tapping screws( 3,5 / 42mm).Laying Fibreboard in two layers allowed to achieve a smooth coating.

The area of ​​a piece of linoleum slightly exceeded the floor area. To cut the right size, I:

1. Deployed linoleum.
2. Aligned a piece on a long wall without protrusions.
3. Cuts linoleum under the doorway.
4. Gradually cut linoleum under all pipes and ledges.

As a result, linoleum lay flat, not going to the walls, repeating the perimeter of the room.

Wallpaper pasting

Day 4

Walls in the kitchen we decorated with vinyl wallpaper on non-woven basis. When gluing wallpaper this type of special glue is applied to the roller only on the wall. To the wall, which is generously smeared with glue, strictly vertically( for the first strip on the wall it is possible to apply a line on the level) a prepared strip is applied and carefully rolled out with a rubber roller. If necessary, excess glue can be removed with a dry soft cloth.

The design of our updated kitchen meant wallpapering the wallpaper in two levels - a light top and a dark blue bottom. When gluing wallpaper in this way, it's best to start from the top.

To begin with, I have found the required number of stripes of light wallpaper with a length of 1.5 m. I glued them in the above way, starting from the window.

The dark wallpaper cut into strips of 1m long and gently stuck the butt against the upper wallpaper. Installation of floor skirting boards and wall moldings.

The fifth day

At the junction of the wallpaper strictly horizontally( by level) I placed the previously painted wooden moldings and fastened the nails with a length of 6 cm( if desired, you can use liquid nails).

Tip: if there is any doubt that the floor in your apartment is laid strictly horizontally, then the level in this case is best not to use. The horizontal line for the location moldings hold in different places measuring the height of 1m from the floor. This is done because the furniture will stand on the floor and the horizontal elements located on the wall can visually appear unevenly beaten.

Floor skirting was mounted according to the following technology:

1. Attached the plinth to the wall.
2. The perforator drilled holes in the wall directly through the cable duct.
3. In the received holes has hammered ХПС .
4. Screw the plinth with screws and a press cup.

After that I returned the furniture and kitchen utensils to their places. Connected the sink and gas stove. The kitchen is ready for use. Your comments?