Assembling of a joiner's bench by one's own hands

Contents:

Work bench device

The workbench consists of a bench and a baserustling).

The board has a vice - one or two, in which the master clamps the parts with screws.

You can focus directly on the workbench using wedges that are inserted into the holes in the board itself, so you can adjust the length of the stop in accordance with the length of the workpiece.

The worktop is made of dry wood or plywood with a thickness of up to 8 cm. The jig is made of 6 cm thick bars.

The pile stands on 2 racks, which are cross-sectionally fastened with uneven bars with screws / wedges.

This is necessary to ensure that the workbench, when planing, sawing, does not "walk" from side to side.

Work bench device in detail:

• Worktop - made of wood / plywood thickness from 6 to 8 cm;
• Vices in front of the countertop;
• The workbench supports are made of solid wood / plywood, connected by cross bars for stabilization;
• On the supports you can install shelves, a tool box;
• In the countertop holes are drilled under the wedges in order to stop the workpiece;
• A recess for storing the tool can be made on the side or behind the work board.

The complete work bench device is shown in the photo below.

Dimensions of a workbench

Here we meet the first important nuance, which can not be ignored when making a workbench with your own hands - its height and length.

The minimum permissible height of the workbench is 130 cm, the length is not more than 260 cm.

The height of the workbench is adjusted for the growth of the person working on it:

• too high will not allow much rests, which is important when planing;
• low workbench will make you constantly hump, which will badly affect the health of your back after a couple of months;
• the height will be normal, if you stand straight, straighten in the back and you can put your hands on the board without bending your elbows.

Nuances of manufacturing

Manufacturing of a workbench has the nuances which observance guarantees manufacturing of a workbench which will carry out the functions irreproachably.

Nuance is a mass, therefore we structure them for each stage of the future assembly process:

1. Initial stage of work. You need to start from the work board. Someone will rush to look for an expensive solid solid of a tree, and not somehow, but as for science - oak, beech or ash. Specialists also advise you to take a ready wooden countertop, which will cost an order of magnitude less;
2. Work with the future work surface of the workbench. The surface should be made smooth, because any wood, prepared for the role of a bench board, should be properly sanded. To varnish or not - you decide;
3. Important point - the workbench is a kind of table. Your task, in fact - to make a table, on which they cut not a sausage, but a tree. Therefore, after assembling a workbench, fix it thoroughly on four legs and then connect them with cross rails for stability;
4. Drawers are an important element of comfort. Take out the drawer from the drawer and pay attention to how it is installed: there is a pair of guides in the shape of the letter "P" along which the side slats of the drawer slide. Nail the two guide rails at a distance from each other, equal to the width of the drawer and ready;
5. Need a sawing table, if you saw. The table is put out 20-30 cm beyond the board itself. It represents a small plank, which is attached to the desktop with screws( see photo);
6. The workbench should be straight. Planing, cutting, burning, carving and other manipulations can be performed strictly on a flat surface and in no other way;
7. Do not forget about the wedges! Wedges are needed in order to make emphasis when planing the workpiece. In the table at a certain step( 10-15 cm) you need to drill a series of holes( you can several rows in a row), in which you afterwards will insert rounded wedges. If possible, use a nozzle to drill square holes - the wedges of a square cross-section better hold the emphasis by virtue of their shape than the round ones, prone to deflection of the vector of the applied load - the workpiece will continually fly out of the stop.

Practical instruction for creating a workbench

So, it's time to make your own joiner's workbench. Each stage of the assembly is accompanied by a description and a photo of the process.

At the end of the manual, see the video summarizing the assembly process in stages. We do not give drawings of a folding variety, since it is an order of magnitude more difficult to make.

Let's analyze the assembly step by step.

Video:

Step 1 - make measurements

Recommendations for height are not convenient for everyone. So pick up the match for growth: extend your hand in front of you, so that it forms an angle with the body at 90 degrees.

Next, while holding it out, lower it down the rounded path until you reach the optimum height. How to define it: imagine that you keep the plane and try to plan - the height is comfortable?

Is the back tight or not? If everything suits you, measure the distance from the palm to the floor - this will be the total height of the workbench.

Step 2 - make the legs

Take the finished bars of the desired height, or purchase plywood and cut the sheets into strips of the correct width.

Now they need to be glued together: we take wood glue or a powerful epoxide, we put several layers on top of each other, simultaneously gluing them together.

You may need 10 such strips of plywood on each of the legs. It is better to glue together at once 10 sheets of plywood and after drying cut into 4 parts.

Step 3 - we make the workbench

We take the ready board, 4 cm thick - 4 pieces, which will be the sides of the frame-box and collect the box, setting the sides on the screws.

In another case, you can take also several sheets of plywood, glue them together and then cut them evenly.

But then to properly connect them together, it is better to use a router and lamellas.

Drilling the necessary holes, we collect the wooden box: we plant on the PVA glue using the dowels of the board, clamp the clamps. After drying, we fix the legs with self-tapping screws to the box.

Step 3 - collect the shelf for the tool

From the plywood( 5-6 sheets) cut out the shelf, which is put in the grooves.

The shelf needs to be fastened with confirmations: use a special drill( see photo), which simultaneously removes the bevel and drills.

Confirmat must necessarily be drowned, as this part of the shelf will be used as a guide for the box. Now the base of the table is ready.

Step 4 - we make the box for the table top

Take the sheet for the bottom and again 4 stripes of plywood from several glued layers. On the inner sides of the two side walls we make grooves - for the bottom of the box.

And on the outside of these walls we make grooves with milling so that the box can travel freely on the shelves. Cutters are selected as follows: smaller - as the thickness of the bottom, large - as the thickness of the side strips + 1-2 mm.

To secure the side wall we put dowels: drill holes in the ends of the dowel hole, mark with a pencil the point for drilling on the mating wall and drill to a shallow depth.

After we plant the dowels in both holes on the PVA glue. For the final assembly of the box, it is worthwhile to use secret screws that will not prevent the opening and closing of the box with a cap.

Step 5 - making the table top

Again cut the strips glued together into several layers of plywood under the table top. We connect the strips in a box using dowels and PVA.

If you use round dowels, then they need to take a minimum of 4 pieces per connection.

While the table top dries, we collect its work board: we take wide sheets of plywood and glue them in several layers.

You can also pick up the countertop from the old desk and then just fit it. We glue the table top on the box, reinforced with dowels.

Video:

Step 6 - put the vise

Once the glue has seized and the table top is ready, drill holes in it under the wedges for the stop and for securing the vice.

Typically, the vise is placed on 3 holes: two - for bolting, one - for a screw that communicates the pressure when the handle is rotated.

Vices can be taken from an old workbench, or you can buy them already ready and then simply fit them under the countertop, drill the holes of the required step.

Bench vice is a metal screw with guides and clamps made of wood.

It is possible to take several layers of glued plywood with a thickness of about 5-7 cm and simply drill holes in it and put it on the screw - you will get an emphasis, after putting the snapping brackets so that the vise does not fall out and is ready.

It is possible to drill holes in the size of a large diameter dowel in the stop, after setting it with a screw to a square of plywood, pre-drilled in a square groove.

Make such 4 stops and arrange all over the table top to fix the workpieces with the stop in the vice.

Our workbench is ready!

( All the above steps are shown separately in the video of the assembly process)

Video:

Rules for care and operation

There are a number of rules that must be strictly observed to ensure that the workbench lasts as long as possible:

• Clean the surface of dust, glue after each use;
• Wipe once a month with a surface of hot linseed oil;
• Do not fill the workbench with water, do not put anything glued on it, including the parts to be glued.
• The workbench is not used in any way;
• Place a board or plywood on the workpiece if you want to use the cutting tool.
• Do not tighten the vise screws tightly;
• When the screws are tightened, you can not beat them against the vice;
• The workbench is fastened to the place of its permanent location with the help of laths on screws or nails;
• The floorboard should not be mounted. Otherwise - strengthen all the places of its connection;
• Clean wooden screws with dry soap, paraffin or graphite, and metal screws with machine oil only.